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Suppressors Ultra 9 Brake versus direct thread?
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
This was a similar question that I asked TBAC when seriously researching am Ultra 9, which I now own spanning a .308 and .223 rig due to their CB brakes.
I was told in an email conversation with Ray Sanchez of TBAC: "CB brake mount is the way to go for a precision rifle. Its a better mount than a direct thread. The shoulder on the back of the brake is way better than a 5/8 or even 3/4shoulder can offer."
I think it's a matter of the surface area provided by the base of the brake and resulting torque "snugging" up and holding things secure vs just the threads of a direct. I know this is a rather vanilla description, but intuitively it seems to makes sense as providing a better seal.
He provided these vids to demonstrate how boss he is and of course, why the CB's a better option:
Here are some videos that show how good the mount is
Here is a link to a short video that shows some accuracy and repeatability testing of the CB mount on a 308 at 700 yards
https://thunderbeastarms.com/news/30cb9-accuracy-and-repeatability/
Here is another video of a 6.5 Ultra on a 260 with a CB mount at 700 yards just to show how good the mount is.
Hope this helped and enjoy your TBAC whatever you choose.
I was told in an email conversation with Ray Sanchez of TBAC: "CB brake mount is the way to go for a precision rifle. Its a better mount than a direct thread. The shoulder on the back of the brake is way better than a 5/8 or even 3/4shoulder can offer."
I think it's a matter of the surface area provided by the base of the brake and resulting torque "snugging" up and holding things secure vs just the threads of a direct. I know this is a rather vanilla description, but intuitively it seems to makes sense as providing a better seal.
He provided these vids to demonstrate how boss he is and of course, why the CB's a better option:
Here are some videos that show how good the mount is
Here is a link to a short video that shows some accuracy and repeatability testing of the CB mount on a 308 at 700 yards
https://thunderbeastarms.com/news/30cb9-accuracy-and-repeatability/
Here is another video of a 6.5 Ultra on a 260 with a CB mount at 700 yards just to show how good the mount is.
Hope this helped and enjoy your TBAC whatever you choose.
I have seen Ray say that before, but isn't it true that a Thunderbeast DT and CB are the same can/brake, just the DT has the brake glued in? If this is the case, I can't see one being better than the other because the CB brake is still threaded on against the "inferior" shoulder. Just curious as to the logic behind this.
Go CB mount. You can buy a 1/2-28 brake for an AR or smaller barrelled rifle, and a 5/8-24 brake for most long guns. One can, easy switch
I agree that the taper is superior to the square shoulder on the barrel, But the CB system is not taking the barrel shoulder out of the equation, just changing which part moves. I guess I'll have to give you a call to wrap my head around what you're saying, but from what I can tell, both the CB and DT cans have to shoulder on the barrel and the brake and the only difference between the 2 is where the glue is. If this is the case, as long as both stay tight, there should be absolutely no difference. Is the "as long as everything stays tight" caveat what you are arguing?
The shoulder of the barrel is straight whereas the surface of the brake is tapered. That's what he's talking about as far as the difference.
Correct, but both are factors in the equation for DT and CB alike. The CB mount is still shouldered on the square barrel.
But if it's red loctited, as is usual, then it isn't moving. So then the only part that is subject to movement is the tapered surface as opposed to the shoulder on the direct thread style.
I could be wrong, but I believe the key point is that the surface area of the tapered shoulder of the CB is much larger than the surface are of the typical square shoulder on the barrel. That additional surface area translates to more friction, which means things are less likely to come loose.
With a direct thread the tapered surface is glued into the can so it does nothing to hold can in place. The only thing with a direct thread holding the can is the flat shoulder and threads. With the brake Loc-Tited to the barrel its the tapered surface holding things in place.
It is, but it is Loctited and torqued tight with a wrench to take out all the tolerances and play of the interface with the barrel threads and shoulder, making the brake "as though" it is an integral part of the barrel. In other words, you are sort of eliminating this interface from the equation. With a direct-thread can, you can only hand-tighten this interface, and it will not be as secure, nor repeatable. With the brake-mount version, you shift this interface to the large conical shoulder and larger/finer threads of the brake's suppressor-mounting shoulder, which do a much better job of retention, alignment, and repeatability.
Definitely use the brake over the direct thread. The threadover brakes work a lot like a direct thread anyway only they fit better. Being able to swap 'em between rifles is nice. You aren't losing anything using the brake, but you certainly could come off worse not using the brake.
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