Understanding Belted Magnums

coues7

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Minuteman
Feb 3, 2007
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White Mountains AZ
Let me give you a little history which will hopefully help you help me
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About 3 years ago I had R+D Precision do a semi custom rifle for me. At the time I couldn't afford a full custom so he trued the action, bedded it in a mcmillan and cut the barrel back a little bit and re-reamed the neck and shoulder. About a year ago GAP built me a full custom rig. I can't get it to shoot 1/2 MOA with match grade factory ammo so I'm working on some loads for it.

With that being said this morning I went to the range with a bunch of reloads that I'd put together hoping to get similar results to all the other guys on here with GAP's. After shooting some brand new Winchester Brass I then went to my once fired FGMM Brass. During the reloading process no matter how much I cranked the die down we could never get the shoulder to bump back. I'm using a Forster Co-Ax and Redding Type S bushing dies.

Using an RCBS Precision Mic I'm measuring the once fired casings, and they are about 0.004" under the zero mark which on the RCBS Precision Mic is Saami spec. So my shoulder are already 0.004" under Saami spec (This is a good thing).

Now the problem. I read on here and every other forum that as reloaders we should bump the shoulder back at least 0.001" to make sure the cases will ALWAYS chamber. During this process I mixed the GAP fired FGMM cases and the "factory" Remington chambered fired FGMM cases. So when I got to the range and went to shoot my groups for a ladder test there were rounds that wouldn't chamber. I've loaded up approximately 36 and half of them won't chamber. I'm assuming the ones that won't chamber are the ones that came from the Remington "factory" chamber (NO FAULT OF R+D).

Now in using the Co-Ax I've set the die down (full length die) as far as I feel comfortable with "break over" on the Co-Ax without damaging. Now after much measuring and comparing the problem is about the last 1/8" of the case just above the belt. So is it just match chambers that you won't be able to "bump" the shoulder and in so doing you won't be able to truly size all the way down the belt?

I'm sure some will comment that Larry Willis has the answer and this TRUE, but without his die is the answer just that my GAP cannot use once fired brass from a "factory" chamber (ie I can't buy once fired brass so any old joe blow internet)?

I've read and searched and I also don't understand "head spacing on magnums" either.
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

coues7,
I am not familiar with match chambers, are they tight chambers, and do you need to trim your necks in order for them to chamber? Could be the problem. Or unload one of the rounds that won't chamber and resize the brass. see if the resized brass will then chamber in your rifle.Also, are you using a full length sizing die, or just neck sizing? If you are using once fired brass from another rifle, you need to full length resize it. As far as headspacing belted magnums, just bump the shoulder just to the point the brass chambers in your rifle, and the belt becomes irevelant.
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

The only belted magnum I personally load is the 375h&h, I assume you're talking 300 win mag. I have a couple FL sizers, and they don't size all the way down to the belt. I'd think that your problem is not headspace, but the bulge that develops just above the belt. It's visable on my 375 brass, slightly, but I can see the bulge. The Larry Willis die is the only way I know to get rid of it.
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

Have you measured the once fired from the GAP and compared the shoulder lenght to the R+D? IF there is a big difference then you have a couple choices.

1. Keep the brass seperate for both guns. The reason is, if you resize to fit the shorter of the two, when fired in the longer chamber you will get excesses streching, causing case failure more quickly.

OR

2. This can be a problem with tight or match chambers. If the die is contacting the press before you get shoulder bump, you can by a set of match case holders. THey are cut shorter to allow the dies to be screwed in further. Or you can get some one to machine the bottom of the die off to allow it to come down further. Either way the case needs to go inside further and removing material from the shell holder or die is you only option.
http://www.redding-reloading.com/pages/shellholders2.html


AS stated above about the Bulge, I have seen it, but it has never caused a problem.

Willys46
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

I am talking 300WM. I am full length sizing all the brass as part of the reloading process. All the brass is run through the Giraud case trimmer and OAL of just the brass is under the Saami maximum of 2.62. I can not screw the die down any further to get should bump....AND according the the RCBS precision mic which measures to the shoulder I'm already under Saami max for that dimension as well. When measuring brass from both guns the shoulder dimension doesn't really vary BUT just above the belt the "factory" chamber once fired brass measures 0.512" and the GAP chamber once fired brass measures 0.510". This is really the only difference I've found.
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

I bought the larry willis die, haven't used it yet because I'm waiting on my 7mmRM to get finished being built. Pay $90 and forget the headached.
 
Re: Understanding Belted Magnums

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: coues7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I've loaded up approximately 36 and half of them won't chamber.

I've read and searched and I also don't understand "head spacing on magnums" either. </div></div>

coues7 .......

The Tech Tips section in our website has several good articles about understanding headspace. Check out these pages, and you should do real well.

Headspace Separation

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