Updating my Rem 700, questions on stocks

[Horsegoalie]

Sorry for the long post, but everyone asks the questions I answer below anyways, so figured it would be easier to get it all out front... I am fairly new, and did a small rem 700 build on my own, using a good scope and rings, timney trigger, and unfortunately a Choate Super Sniper stock. The base rifle was a 700 SPS Varmint. That's my starting point...

After shooting this for a while, I find that the weight and size are just too big for me to ignore. My needs are primarily punch paper at up to 300yds (though I am looking for a longer range). I would like the rifle to be hunting "capable", something this one is certainly not. While I am at it, I would like to get a chassis, though this goes against the weight thought. I still believe that I am the weakest link in the system, but I am catching up to it now, and want to build with the future in mind. That's my needs/wants...

My budget is about 1000$ for the update, and for the money this was my plan:
Purchase manners stock with DBM ($825-$1025)
Have smith cut and crown rifle to 20", maybe thread too if not too much more (~$200)

So, my questions are:
How much advantage is there between the T4A versus the T4? Is the adjustable cheek riser worth the 200$ blowing up my budget? It is heavier too, something that I don't really want.

I could go cheaper with the TAC21, which provides a ton of adjustability. I am not sure I love this stock though, and it is only marginally less expensive. Thoughts on this versus the T4?

I could also blow the budget the other way and get a new barrel. Thoughts on the cost of a good barrel with install by a smith? I was thinking this was ~500$.

Sorry for the long first post and bunch of questions, but don't want to make mistakes again as I did in choosing the Varmint to start and the Choate Sniper stock.

 

[Pinecone]

Several threads in the Bolt Action section.

When I went through this exercise, everyone said to get the T4A as is better to have the adjustability and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

But if you are looking at saving weight, get the T4 and a stock pack.

But the way I would do it. Get the T4A and make a nice long range rifle. Then buy a basic Rem 700 with lighter weight barrel for hunting.

 

[BoilerUP]

Stocky's has T2/T4s as well as the -A model of each on sale right now for Rem 700 and Savage.

I had a Manners T2 and now have a McM A5 and an A5 Adj, and feel adjustable cheek is not necessary. Its certainly cleaner than a stock pack, but if you need/want more comb a Triad stock pack for <50 is way more cost effective.

 

[sierracharlie338]

Updating my Rem 700, questions on stocks

If you are wanting a hunting rifle you are going the opposite direction with your build if you ask me.

Lose the DBM and stick with a BDL floor plate. If you really want to cut weigh stay away from the adjustable cheek piece and use a stock pack instead.

Here is my hunting build I'm in the middle of.
-Rem 700 action
-Manners MCS-T with BDL chassis and floor plate
-Krieger SS barrel Rem Varmint contour
-jewel trigger

If you are wanting more of a bench/prone rifle go with the T4A

That's just my opinion.


Sierracharlie out....

 

[AccuSol-ERN]

If you are looking for a good all-around setup on a budget you would be hard pressed to find one better than this:

- Bell & Carlson M40 stock (cheap cost, good solid stock, chassis system, has a barrel channel wide enough that you can open it to an m40/m24 contour barrel if you go that route in the future). This stock if very similar to the McMillan a1-3 stock.
- Send it to us (GAP) for an m5 inlet but buy a PTG stealth DBM (same footprint as an m5).
- Your choice on a bolt knob (not needed if you are used to the regular knob)

If your factory barrel shoots good enough for you I wouldn't rebarrel for the same round, save the rebarrel for a caliber change (which is sure to happen once you see the advantages of different rounds). You can go ahead and shorten your barrel if you want it will make it more handy and the ranges you are talking lower velocity isn't going to make much of a difference.

With a little trigger adjustment, even the factory x-mark trigger can be decent. There are better triggers out there but it is another expense.

Just so you know, I have built a few of these exact setups for friends and family on a budget and they are 100% pleased.

For your ranges I would concentrate on bullets in the 155gr range, I really like the 155gr AMAX it shoots well and performs pretty good on animals too.

Just my thoughts.

Ern

 

[Horsegoalie]

Sent you a PM with questions about this option, which is very interesting.

If you are looking for a good all-around setup on a budget you would be hard pressed to find one better than this:

- Bell & Carlson M40 stock (cheap cost, good solid stock, chassis system, has a barrel channel wide enough that you can open it to an m40/m24 contour barrel if you go that route in the future). This stock if very similar to the McMillan a1-3 stock.
- Send it to us (GAP) for an m5 inlet but buy a PTG stealth DBM (same footprint as an m5).
- Your choice on a bolt knob (not needed if you are used to the regular knob)

If your factory barrel shoots good enough for you I wouldn't rebarrel for the same round, save the rebarrel for a caliber change (which is sure to happen once you see the advantages of different rounds). You can go ahead and shorten your barrel if you want it will make it more handy and the ranges you are talking lower velocity isn't going to make much of a difference.

With a little trigger adjustment, even the factory x-mark trigger can be decent. There are better triggers out there but it is another expense.

Just so you know, I have built a few of these exact setups for friends and family on a budget and they are 100% pleased.

For your ranges I would concentrate on bullets in the 155gr range, I really like the 155gr AMAX it shoots well and performs pretty good on animals too.

Just my thoughts.

Ern

 

[AccuSol-ERN]

I received your PM I will try and respond in a few hours from work. If not I will respond tonight after I get home.

Thanks.

Ern

 

[Archer762]

You can use foam and gorilla tape ($10) for the best possible "custom" cheek weld. You might not cool posing at the range though.