Night Vision UTM pixel pitch
- Thread starter Mban2
- Start date
My brain confused UTC and UTM.
UTM is 25um
UTM-X is 17um
There is no 12um version of the UTM... yet.
UTM-X is TracIR enabled. UTM is not.
There is a noticeable difference ia display quality between the two models, but it is not earth-shattering.
Leaving below faux paux for posterity.
UTC is 25um
UTC-X is 17um
UTC-Xii is 12um
There is zero resolution / resolving ability between UTC-X and UTXii. No one could tell the difference looking through a scope between the two. In fact, some think the X even looks a smidge better at higher magnifications than the Xii. I’ve compared both of mine side-by-side using identical scopes (I have two SB PMII 3-27’s). **IF** there is a difference, it was at the limit of 27x where I *think* I saw a hair better definition in the X, which means it’s either not there or so trivial as not to matter.
The straight UTM is NOT TracIR compatible. The X is TracIR compatible with v5.2 software. All versions of the Xii are TracIR compatible.
UTM is 25um
UTM-X is 17um
There is no 12um version of the UTM... yet.
UTM-X is TracIR enabled. UTM is not.
There is a noticeable difference ia display quality between the two models, but it is not earth-shattering.
Leaving below faux paux for posterity.
UTC is 25um
UTC-X is 17um
UTC-Xii is 12um
There is zero resolution / resolving ability between UTC-X and UTXii. No one could tell the difference looking through a scope between the two. In fact, some think the X even looks a smidge better at higher magnifications than the Xii. I’ve compared both of mine side-by-side using identical scopes (I have two SB PMII 3-27’s). **IF** there is a difference, it was at the limit of 27x where I *think* I saw a hair better definition in the X, which means it’s either not there or so trivial as not to matter.
The straight UTM is NOT TracIR compatible. The X is TracIR compatible with v5.2 software. All versions of the Xii are TracIR compatible.
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Is there a UTM Xii? Sounds like you are calling the Utc a UTM but I’m prolly wrong
I take it you have to adjust parallex out of the UTMx in clipon- just like you have to with the Skeet?
I don’t know about adjusting the parallax but you do need to adjust the screen location by setting the reticle to line up with the scope’s reticle.
As to the Skeetir-L as a clip on, mine is rocking that role. Obviously the X would be better but I’m getting no POI change and pretty good accuracy so I’m really pleased.
As to the Skeetir-L as a clip on, mine is rocking that role. Obviously the X would be better but I’m getting no POI change and pretty good accuracy so I’m really pleased.
Please explain.
There was a thread on this topic over at arfcom but forgot what all they where saying. One of them was a screen adjustment, ie moving the entire screen inside the display since there are more than 640x pixels inside the device. Another was moving the reticle on the screen.
Which are you talking about? How is it done?
the best way is to adjust the reticle of the thermal to match the scope reticle, then use the ocular lens to remove any parallax between the two. You should do that with the UTC line as well, but it really isn't necessary. Of course with the UTC you are using the side parallax on the day scope to adjust.
I watched it done with a UTM (not X). I believe you line up the reticle with your scope’s reticle which does move the screen when done in the proper setting. Haven’t done it myself, just watched smarter guys than myself.
Interesting.
There is moving the reticle on the screen, then there is moving the entire screen. If we’re adjusting the reticle, and not the screen, what exactly is it doing? Im unsure how moving a black line of pixels changes anything about POA/POI. I’m genuinely curious what is being changed to turn the UTM or x into a better clipon.
This is where it gets confusing. I’m pretty sure moving the reticle on the screen doesn’t move the screen. There is another setting where you can adjust the screen (and reticle on the screen will move with it).
Having the two reticles overlap just gives you a reference point for removing any parallax difference between the two.
This is essentially what I was getting at. Thanks.
The reticle isn’t really needed, it’s simply a quicker way to remove parallax. In my head I was thinking WTF good does the reticle do?! Lol
I have the UTM-X model and all I had to do was mount it in front of my scope with a Wilcox mount and that was it. I didnt have to align both reticles for it to work. I left it in the 1x mode and was hitting zero with my mk12 at 100 yard. 
How are you removing parallax with the utm? Do you line reticles up then move your head around and adjust UTM eyepiece till reticles says together ?
Not much different from others. Depending upon which “model” UTM-X you have, it should work well as a clipon. It’s good up to about 8x optical magnification. Just figure out where your scope plays nice with minimal POI shift on the UTM diopter and make witness marks.
Aligning reticles allows the use of digital zoom on clip-on. Zoom is performed in a way that does not change the position of the reticle (the center of the reticle stays put, and the rest of the pixels move around due to scaling). I hope this makes sense.
Hmm that was over two years ago I think. Don’t really remember what we did, other than it wasn’t a great image we were seeing. Didn’t seem like it was worth the cost at the time
I just zeroed my UTM-X yesterday.
You should NOT need to activate the reticle if using as a clipon. Just go to max optical magnification you will use on your scope with the UTM (recommend 8x MAX). Assuming your LPVO does NOT have a parallax adjustment, simply use the UTM diopter until the image TTL is sharpest at max optical magnification. If you have a more modern UTM-X with the updated eyepiece, there should now be little to no POI shift.
Mine is within one MOA, as all should be.
You should NOT need to activate the reticle if using as a clipon. Just go to max optical magnification you will use on your scope with the UTM (recommend 8x MAX). Assuming your LPVO does NOT have a parallax adjustment, simply use the UTM diopter until the image TTL is sharpest at max optical magnification. If you have a more modern UTM-X with the updated eyepiece, there should now be little to no POI shift.
Mine is within one MOA, as all should be.
Mine is dead on in conjunction with my mk-12. Just left it in 1x and adjusted the diopter. You should be good to good
