Vudoo Gun Works V-22 Rimfire Bolt Action

I have some minor feeding issues with my Vudoo. It's a complete rifle in a Bravo chassis.
Sometimes the bolt doesn't feed a round. Instead it goes over the round, puts a big dent on the round, and then it get stuck.
I'm doing my best to load the mag correctly (watched the video).
This happens typically once for every 2 mags.
I'm using the standard 10 round poly mag with Center X.
 
I have some minor feeding issues with my Vudoo. It's a complete rifle in a Bravo chassis.
Sometimes the bolt doesn't feed a round. Instead it goes over the round, puts a big dent on the round, and then it get stuck.
I'm doing my best to load the mag correctly (watched the video).
This happens typically once for every 2 mags.
I'm using the standard 10 round poly mag with Center X.

Did you buy it from them? If so, then they should try to fix it.

Otherwise, if the bolt is going over the round, then the mag isn't sitting high enough, or you're short stroking the bolt (not pulling far enough back before pushing forward meaning the bolt misses the rim on the round and starts catching it after the rim which will push the round forward, sandwich it and dent it.
 
Yup, and the arrival will not suck, not at all in anyway. Mine must be near ... decided last December, had the budget in place and ordered in April, any time I reckon.

What did you order? Full rifle or barreled action? My order in April was originally slated to be done in early August, but I changed it to a custom barrel which wasn't going to have delivery until mid Sept so I just got my 360.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 6gunner
What did you order? Full rifle or barreled action? My order in April was originally slated to be done in early August, but I changed it to a custom barrel which wasn't going to have delivery until mid Sept so I just got my 360.
Full rifle, I suspect the Flavio Fare trigger is the sticking point, also I'm in Canada so customs might take a while. I wish I had got it before the snow flew(too late now) but I'll shoot it daily all winter anyway. This rifle is so special to me I'd wait two years for it if I had to.
 
I'll call Vudoo on Monday, but hoping to maybe get it figured out this weekend but my bolt release won't work on the new 360. It worked fine as I put the bolt in, but went and shot a few hundred rounds and came home and I can't get the bolt release to work at all. Pushing on it as hard as I can and it won't push in.

Any suggestions?
 
I'll call Vudoo on Monday, but hoping to maybe get it figured out this weekend but my bolt release won't work on the new 360. It worked fine as I put the bolt in, but went and shot a few hundred rounds and came home and I can't get the bolt release to work at all. Pushing on it as hard as I can and it won't push in.

Any suggestions?
Use compressed air to blow around it in case there is some debris stuck in there somewhere.
 
I think it's a 1/16" Allen head screw holding that bolt release in?
You might remove it, but careful about springs n stuff... I have not disassembled mine.
I'd probably wait and call if the duster doesn't blow it free as @jbell suggested.
 
I'll call Vudoo on Monday, but hoping to maybe get it figured out this weekend but my bolt release won't work on the new 360. It worked fine as I put the bolt in, but went and shot a few hundred rounds and came home and I can't get the bolt release to work at all. Pushing on it as hard as I can and it won't push in.

Any suggestions?
Make sure you're not bringing the bolt all the way back against the bolt release prior to pushing the bolt release. There's a feature that locks the two together to eliminate a moment of force that can bounce the release out of the way when you run the bolt hard.

MB
 
Make sure you're not bringing the bolt all the way back against the bolt release prior to pushing the bolt release. There's a feature that locks the two together to eliminate a moment of force that can bounce the release out of the way when you run the bolt hard.

MB

The 1/16" screw was super tight. I was worried my little 1/16" allen key was going to break but I got it to turn. About 1 revolution out revolution out, the bolt stop started working again. I turned 1/4 turn and it got a little gritty, so I backed it out again until the bolt stop was smooth and springy.

300 rounds down the rifle now and I'm giving it a cleaning and will try to get my dope dialed in for it tomorrow. 22" Benchmark is chronoing at 1055. I wanted to confirm to see if it slowed down that much and ran my Center-X in my friend's custom 24" Benchmark CZ 457 and it looks right. Eley Tenex ammo though out of his CZ shoots at 1090, so it looks like if I want my ammo to be more in the 1090 range I'll have to shoot the hotter Eley stuff.

Lot#26xx24xx24xx25xx26xx CZ
10551051104910621042
10741053106110591038
10651063106310621030
10431057105010551039
10551057105810581041
10441055105410561033
10511036105010701035
10501046105110591060
10481048104910591034
10571054104510731041
106810681054
AVG1055.45454510521054.3636361060.6363641039.3
STDEV9.9334146837.408703597.1592279935.9711427268.273787256
ES3127231930

50 yd groups were all relatively good a lot better than the first outing. Need to stretch it to 100/200 to see which Lot# works the best. Sadly I don't have any more 25xx, but I have 1.5 cases of 24xx and 1 case of 26xx. Rifle isn't threaded so no quick way for an ATS/EC tuner, so I'll probably have to send it in to Lapua.

I have like 7500 rounds through my Gen 1.2 and it is slick and feeds really smoothly. The 360 cycles really cleanly while dry firing, but picking up rounds into the chamber is not as smooth as my Gen 1.2.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jefe's Dope
There's a feature that locks the two together to eliminate a moment of force that can bounce the release out of the way when you run the bolt hard.
Another feature that raises Vudoo far above the rest. After dealing with the bolt pulling out of my CZ-455 in a match, this feature really says a lot to me! (Bolt pulls out of the CZ because it has a trigger kit in it; anyone who understands how a stock 455 trigger works knows why there is a direct correlation between pull weight and bolt coming out of the rifle.)

While my first-gen Vudoo does everything I want it to do, I might have to acquire a 360 just because it's a jewel to appreciate.
 
Went out to the range today to confirm dope and take time on paper. Also took time to do all the proper natural point of aim, follow through etc to try to get a decent set of 50yd groups. The freshly cleaned and lubed 360 felt great. Really smooth feeding and shot well. The one larger group, I rushed since they were going to call cease fire for target change and I wanted to fit the group in.

1633296958968.png


I checked my kestrel and dope out to 200 and it is within .05mils which is good. Slight left to right wind. Kestel called for 7.34mils and I dialed 7.3mil.

1633297035798.png


My 24xx lot shoots well enough for me to use until it's done. Chronoing at 1055. 2mils to 103yds, 7.3 mils to 200 yds. 50yd zero.
 
There are some very nice groups on the 50 yard target above.

On the one that measures 0.219" on the bottom left corner, how can a group be smaller than .22" when there's clearly paper showing between the two widest apart bullet holes?

 
I'll call Vudoo on Monday, but hoping to maybe get it figured out this weekend but my bolt release won't work on the new 360. It worked fine as I put the bolt in, but went and shot a few hundred rounds and came home and I can't get the bolt release to work at all. Pushing on it as hard as I can and it won't push in.

Any suggestions?
I haven’t had this problem, but in September the bolt stop on my Vudoo 360 sheared off. Vudoo was quick to send out a replacement. I was shooting tonight, and it sheared off again! It’s been 319 rounds since replacement. I’m not working the bolt excessively hard. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
Last edited:
There are some very nice groups on the 50 yard target above.

On the one that measures 0.219" on the bottom left corner, how can a group be smaller than .22" when there's clearly paper showing between the two widest apart bullet holes?


Good catch! I remeasured it and it's .449. It looks like I quickly measured top/bottom instead of that diagonal which is larger. The group should've been .228, and not .219.
 
I have a .9" at muzzle, non threaded barrel. What is the best recommendation for a tuner? I know it's not necessary for PRS style targets, but it also doesn't hurt when people do cold bore challenges shooting golfballs at 200y. Is there a clamp on tuner that is robust enough to handle PRS and works well?

Harrel's? Is there a set screw that really locks in the setting? I think I just call them and have them bore it out .9" I also don't want to increase the length anymore on my rifle (already 22"). So can I jist slide the Harrel's all the way back on my barrel so it's flush to the crown?

I heard also heard this SFP Pro Tuner.

Thanks!
 
I have a .9" at muzzle, non threaded barrel. What is the best recommendation for a tuner? I know it's not necessary for PRS style targets, but it also doesn't hurt when people do cold bore challenges shooting golfballs at 200y. Is there a clamp on tuner that is robust enough to handle PRS and works well?

Harrel's? Is there a set screw that really locks in the setting? I think I just call them and have them bore it out .9" I also don't want to increase the length anymore on my rifle (already 22"). So can I jist slide the Harrel's all the way back on my barrel so it's flush to the crown?

I heard also heard this SFP Pro Tuner.

Thanks!
No set screw on the Harrell. A wrap of electrical tape does the job. Harrell cannot be set back to be flush with the crown.
 
I have a .9" at muzzle, non threaded barrel. What is the best recommendation for a tuner? I know it's not necessary for PRS style targets, but it also doesn't hurt when people do cold bore challenges shooting golfballs at 200y. Is there a clamp on tuner that is robust enough to handle PRS and works well?

Harrel's? Is there a set screw that really locks in the setting? I think I just call them and have them bore it out .9" I also don't want to increase the length anymore on my rifle (already 22"). So can I jist slide the Harrel's all the way back on my barrel so it's flush to the crown?

I heard also heard this SFP Pro Tuner.

Thanks!
 
In order for a tuner to work, it must extend past the muzzle. There are mid barrel tuners but they are always used in conjunction with conventional muzzle tuners. If your barrel is .9 x 22 it probably won't respond well to a tuner if at all.
 
Finally solved my magazine issues with my Gen 2. I have been using the plastic mags in a MPA Hybrid Chassis. I have had issues with the plastic magazines if bumped even just a little, which can be problematic on the clock when the rifle is resting on a bag. Push the bag there is normally a jam. My chassis has an adjustable mag latch and I could never find the sweet spot that would use both metal and plastic mags. I added a second and third metal magazine to the mix and decided to set it up for the metal mags only. MPA makes small plastic inserts for their chassis to fine tune the fit. It slides in the chassis above the mag latch. I got the metal magazines to fit perfectly, (at the perfect plastic mag setting the metal ones would not click in) with the bolt just missing the top of the mag. I took this configuration to the range yesterday and I literally could not make it misfeed. I shot several mags on bipod and rear bag, no problems. I then shot several pulling very hard to the rear on the mag, bipod, shoulder and left hand pulling hard on the mag, still perfect. Then I shot several holding the rifle up by the mag, hand cupped underneath supporting the weight of the rifle, again no issues. Then I put the rifle on a bag on a rooftop prop and pushed hard against the bag, still perfect. If you have a MPA Chassis and are having trouble I suggest you order the little plastic blocks from MPA and see if they work for you with the proper mag latch adjustment. I used blue loctite to help keep the plastic piece in place.
 
If you have a MPA Chassis and are having trouble I suggest you order the little plastic blocks from MPA and see if they work for you with the proper mag latch adjustment. I used blue loctite to help keep the plastic piece in place.
I had to use Gorilla Glue. Even basic "Super Glue" wasn't enough to keep the plastic block in place on mine longer than a single range session with multiple magazine changes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MLS2GO
Prone 22” MTU V22 360 10-shot groups with Center X and SK STD+. For consistency, initial 10 shot groups are on the top left corner and followed by the test groups on the respective bottom right corners.

I’ll happily continue buying SK STD+ for this.
 

Attachments

  • BF45DE6E-504C-49E0-A8E9-86AF77C7C23E.jpeg
    BF45DE6E-504C-49E0-A8E9-86AF77C7C23E.jpeg
    510.7 KB · Views: 131
Put a few mags of random SK and Lapua ammo through my 360 today after a NRL22 match with my v22, my 360 seems to like SKLR, happy about that.
This pic was 10 quick shots at 50. Probably rounds 30-40 down the pipe.
No hiccups fast feeding with plastic or aluminum mags in my XLR with adjustable magwell. 😎
Not as smooth as my uncoated Gen1 v22, melonited only, but the short throw felt better at speed than I was expecting, and I'm sure the ceracote will wear in.
PXL_20211009_165227453.MP.jpg
 
Sent my Vudoo to the lapua test center in Arizona. Took right at two weeks to get results. Results came on Friday, with top two lots picked (he only had one case of the best lot - and I had suggested I would buy two). Responded that I would take two, and to use good shooting inc for the seller. By Wednesday of the following week (5 days after testing) I had two cases delivered to my house. The action made it back in Friday (7 days after testing completed). Devan (the guy at the test center) answered a lot of questions along the way, and was very helpful.

I cleaned the action, remounted my scope, and shot the rifle in a local NRL22 match yesterday. Took about 15 rounds to really tighten things up, and another 15 to confirm dope. I still struggle some times with the bolt being very hard to close using the metal 15 round magazine. I need to tinker with the mag catch today, and to install the mag blocks (MPA hybrid chassis).

Here are the 50 meter and 100 meter results from my testing. The rifle has a 22” MTU barrel, and it has over 2,000 rounds when I sent it for testing.

Just thought that someone else might benefit from seeing what you get.

Cost -
$50 for shipping and insurance (TN to AZ, ground via UPS)
$64 for return shipping/test fee from AZ to TN
$2,190- for two cases (10,000 rounds)


50meter and 100meter

1D658564-172A-410D-8B87-54EEF8FDD3EE.jpeg

92D7E2D3-05E8-4ACB-A5F8-1A787248E36C.jpeg

E5BAFFCE-7D4B-459C-8774-00E4AE5FB6C5.jpeg
7F536BD9-BBF4-4264-992E-2884EBA7CDB9.jpeg
 
Probably not substantially better, but that is a subjective assessment. I could have sent the current center X to the test center, and asked for a baseline using that. But I didn’t think to.

There are a few interesting things with the results that were sent to me. One was that the worst lot of Center X was remarkably worse compared to the “best.” The image below is 100 meter groups. I’m sure most guys will be “yeah, duh! Anyone knows that!” But this was done in a very controlled environment, removing as many factors as possible.

I don’t have enough of the “old” lots to do a real world comparison. I was able to shoot 3/4” groups (5 shots, max center to center measurement) at 100 yards. But I never tried to shoot a group with 10 shots. So I do believe the new lots are more consistently accurate. I have not found a good conversion to change a 26mm group at 100m to MOA at 100 yards. Anyone - please share the math there to get a good compassion. And that 26mm is outer diameter - not center to center.

And quite honestly, I used this service to buy enough ammo to shoot competitions for well over a year. That alone was worth it for me. 😀
FB2B3188-7174-43D0-AB45-64EEB86B2680.jpeg
 
Probably not substantially better, but that is a subjective assessment. I could have sent the current center X to the test center, and asked for a baseline using that. But I didn’t think to.

There are a few interesting things with the results that were sent to me. One was that the worst lot of Center X was remarkably worse compared to the “best.” The image below is 100 meter groups. I’m sure most guys will be “yeah, duh! Anyone knows that!” But this was done in a very controlled environment, removing as many factors as possible.

I don’t have enough of the “old” lots to do a real world comparison. I was able to shoot 3/4” groups (5 shots, max center to center measurement) at 100 yards. But I never tried to shoot a group with 10 shots. So I do believe the new lots are more consistently accurate. I have not found a good conversion to change a 26mm group at 100m to MOA at 100 yards. Anyone - please share the math there to get a good compassion. And that 26mm is outer diameter - not center to center.

And quite honestly, I used this service to buy enough ammo to shoot competitions for well over a year. That alone was worth it for me. 😀View attachment 7718355

+1 from lot to lot it's pretty crazy the difference... for my testing for my 18" Gen 1.2 Kukri, my best lot at 50m

1633881681006.png


At 100m was

1633881703048.png


This was pre pandemic and I was able to order 4 cases back then. Luckily it shoots well out of my new 360, but I am curious how well my new 360 will do at the test center. I have about 550 rounds through the 360, so another month or so of matches and I should be good to send it in. My new 360 is a 22" Benchmark.

I might have them do some testing of Midas+ just to have something for national matches if I need to eek out a little more consistency.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Panther
And that 26mm is outer diameter - not center to center.

So other than doing the x0.9144 meters-to-yards conversion, subtract 5.56mm from the edge-edge-to-edge measurement to get center-to-center (1/2 of bullet diameter from each side, so one full bullet diameter). Then convert the mm at 100 yards to inches (divide by 25.4) and finally to MOA (x1.047 if at 100 yards, or 2x1.047 if at 50 yards).

Example: convert 26mm edge-to-edge at 100 meters to equivalent MOA at 100 yards:
Step 1: 26mm - 5.56mm = 20.44mm (converting edge-to-edge to c-t-c)
Step 2: 20.44 / 25.4 = 0.805 inches (convert mm to inches)
Step 3: 0.805 x 0.9144 = .7361 (0.805 inches at 100 meters would be the equivalent 0.7361 inches at 100 yards)
Step 4: .7361 x 1.047 = 0.771 equivalent MOA at 100 yards

I think I've got that right!! It would be easy enough to put the calculations into an Excel spreadsheet... here is my take on it -- inside the ZIP file is an Excel .xls:
 

Attachments

  • LapuaTestConversion.zip
    9 KB · Views: 94
Last edited:
Thanks - so for the two 10 shot groups above, the average was 29.8mm edge to edge at 100m.

Converting to inches at 100 yards -

29.8mm/25.4mm/in = 1.17 in (edge to edge)

to get CTC, subtract 0.223 in

1.17 in - 0.223 in = 0.950 in (10 shot group, CTC, @100 meters)

converting inches at 100m to inches at 100 yards - multiply by 0.9144

0.950 * 0.9144 = 0.87 in @100yards for 10 rounds, CTC

Am I blown away by the results - not really. Was hoping to see something closer to 1/2”, but I really have no comparison.

I won the match yesterday, bearing a couple of really good shooters. Was it the new ammo? Maybe. Was it the 20 pound full setup with chassis, weight kit, and good optic. Maybe. Was it luck? Most likely. But what I am glad is that I am relatively confident that going forward, the ammo won’t be my excuse when I miss targets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: littlepod
Lapua Test Center results for a V22 22LR Gen3 22" MTU-V barrel and Bix'nAndy 2-stage TacSport Pro trigger if that matters for Lapua Test Center testing.
 

Attachments

  • Stocker 10-06-21 - CX.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 291
  • Stocker 10-06-21 - Midas.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 107
  • Stocker 10-06-21 - X-Act.pdf
    839.6 KB · Views: 140
Can someone interpret the results for me so I understand what I'm looking at. I get the gist and you can see by just looking at the groups. But I'd like to know what all the abbreviations mean and how they relate to how we normally talk here on the hide. For example, they measure edge to edge rather than center to center, etc.

An edited picture with arrows and explanations for this caveman please. 🥸
 
  • Like
Reactions: SourMash
Can someone interpret the results for me so I understand what I'm looking at. I get the gist and you can see by just looking at the groups. But I'd like to know what all the abbreviations mean and how they relate to how we normally talk here on the hide. For example, they measure edge to edge rather than center to center, etc.

An edited picture with arrows and explanations for this caveman please. 🥸

1633996933748.png