What’s the proper way to re handle an axe

[Sniperwannabee]

So I bought a new handle for my axe and didn’t realize the opening for the axe head were different sizes. So is the larger opening the bottom and the smaller opening the top?


not afraid to ask stupid questions

 

[Old enough to know better]

Small opening goes on bottom there will be a gap around handle on top but after you drive the wedges in top of handle it flares out tight and with the handle now being larger on top it keeps the smaller opening from sliding off

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Genius! Thanks a lot!

 

[chevy_man]

After you wedge it, soak in antifreeze. It'll swell permanently.

 

[Old enough to know better]

No trouble at all

 

[hlee]

You're probably going to have to trim down the handle quite a lot to get it to fit in the eye. There are some good videos on how to properly hang an axe head. Go slow.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

You're probably going to have to trim down the handle quite a lot to get it to fit in the eye. There are some good videos on how to properly hang an axe head. Go slow.

I too was just about to say this. You want it to be as 'perfect' a fit around the bottom of the axe-head as you can. Take your time, and do it well.

The spacing on top will be 'filled' by the strategic wedging, and I have to add that the 'soak in antifreeze' is a new one on me. Thanks for that.

 

[niteshooter]

Don’t take any of this to seriously.

At least ten years ago I did one that is still holding up. Had to whittle the end to make a better fit.
Warmed the axe head in the oven thinking the expansion would help fit over the handle further and easier.
Quickly got it in place, drove the wedge then into a bucket of water for a few minutes to cool/shrink the axe head before it burnt the wood to much.

Kind of like how the metal rings are put on wagon wheels. Wood plus water equals expansion which is good for solid hold as well.

At least that was the logic behind it all. Might have all been extra unnecessary work but it was a fun afternoon project.

All the great epoxies these days might work well too just before driving in the keeper wedges.

It’s 2019 so I’m sure YouTube has something about it since that’s all everyone does to learn new things these days.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Thanks eveyone!

 

[McReef]

Don’t take any of this to seriously.

At least ten years ago I did one that is still holding up. Had to whittle the end to make a better fit.
Warmed the axe head in the oven thinking the expansion would help fit over the handle further and easier.
Quickly got it in place, drove the wedge then into a bucket of water for a few minutes to cool/shrink the axe head before it burnt the wood to much.

Kind of like how the metal rings are put on wagon wheels. Wood plus water equals expansion which is good for solid hold as well.

At least that was the logic behind it all. Might have all been extra unnecessary work but it was a fun afternoon project.

All the great epoxies these days might work well too just before driving in the keeper wedges.

It’s 2019 so I’m sure YouTube has something about it since that’s all everyone does to learn new things these days.

I know nothing of making wagon wheels, nor of fitting new axe handles outside of what I just learned in this thread, so bear that in mind when reading my commentary here...

That being said, I think it highly unlikely that the amount the hole in an axe head grows when heated would have almost any impact whatsoever on this process. The coefficient of expansion is just so small, and the area it has to work on is so limited, I don’t think the numbers would add up.

By comparison, the amount the wooden handle would shrink and/or expand depending on moisture content would be quite large.

A wagon wheel or barrel hoop provides a great deal more room for expansion given their considerably larger size around the circumference.

Does anyone happen to know if there is more at play there than just the expansion of the hoop before placing it around the wooden frame? Perhaps the charring of the wood somehow serves a function?

@niteshooter, I’m not trying to call you out or anything here, kind of just thinking out loud. For some reason your post set some rusty gears to grinding in my head.

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

After you wedge it, soak in antifreeze. It'll swell permanently.

This is a new one on me too.

 

[riverside jeep]

This is a new one on me too.

After you wedge it, soak in antifreeze. It'll swell permanently.

I'll have to try that, thanks. Wonder what else I could soak to get to swell

 

[myronman3]

After you wedge it, soak in antifreeze. It'll swell permanently.

So....you soak wood in antifreeze and it swells permantly? That gives me an idea....maybe i can find that extra inch i’ve been after for years. Thanks for the “tip”.

How can this miss?

 

[LeftyJason]

The one that I haven't seen anybody address almost anywhere is how the heck you supposed to fit up a double bit that has vertical ridges in the eye. You supposed to groove those out or just pound it on?

 

[tomcatmv]

Ehtylene or propylene glycol? Will one make it shrink

 

[Sean the Nailer]

The one that I haven't seen anybody address almost anywhere is how the heck you supposed to fit up a double bit that has vertical ridges in the eye. You supposed to groove those out or just pound it on?

The 'better' any head fits any handle, will dictate the quality and duration of both the fit and it's usefulness.
Whether we're talking about axes, picks, hammers, hatchets, mallets,,,, anything. You want the handle to be as 'mirror' fit as possible, to the contours of the head, before adding wedges and/or epoxy's.

The 'better' job you do in the beginning, lead to the 'better tool' you'll have for a long, long time.

 

[Zeroit]

I know nothing of making wagon wheels, nor of fitting new axe handles outside of what I just learned in this thread, so bear that in mind when reading my commentary here...

That being said, I think it highly unlikely that the amount the hole in an axe head grows when heated would have almost any impact whatsoever on this process. The coefficient of expansion is just so small, and the area it has to work on is so limited, I don’t think the numbers would add up.

By comparison, the amount the wooden handle would shrink and/or expand depending on moisture content would be quite large.

A wagon wheel or barrel hoop provides a great deal more room for expansion given their considerably larger size around the circumference.

Does anyone happen to know if there is more at play there than just the expansion of the hoop before placing it around the wooden frame? Perhaps the charring of the wood somehow serves a function?

@niteshooter, I’m not trying to call you out or anything here, kind of just thinking out loud. For some reason your post set some rusty gears to grinding in my head.

On the farm I grew up on the barn was built well over a hundred years ago was constructed of post and beam had pegged through a few tapered pegs survived laying around and I asked I was told they would auger (hand drill) holes heat up the pegs probably hard maple and drive them into the holes when they acclimatized to the humidity they would swell. Never seen any work there way out.
My recollection/observation for what that is worth.

 

[Marinevet1]

Ax or hammer........I always threw them head down in a bucket or can of oil, old, new any kind.....