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What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
- Thread starter TacBlade
- Start date
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
There are several one-at-a-time methods I've read about over the years. They typically involve using a hand torch to heat the necks while they are standing in a pan of water, spinning on the end of a drill, being held by your fingers, etc. I'm sure if you Googled it, you could find examples and instructions. The weakness of most of these methods is that you can do more harm than good if you don't get the temperatures correct.
In the last few years, several companies have come out with machines that are designed to do a better and more consistent job. Giraud and BenchSource are two of the more popular designs, but all that I've seen are expensive. Just like the earlier methods, getting the temps right is still crucial.
There are several one-at-a-time methods I've read about over the years. They typically involve using a hand torch to heat the necks while they are standing in a pan of water, spinning on the end of a drill, being held by your fingers, etc. I'm sure if you Googled it, you could find examples and instructions. The weakness of most of these methods is that you can do more harm than good if you don't get the temperatures correct.
In the last few years, several companies have come out with machines that are designed to do a better and more consistent job. Giraud and BenchSource are two of the more popular designs, but all that I've seen are expensive. Just like the earlier methods, getting the temps right is still crucial.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
you can do a search on youtube for annealing brass and find every way there is to do it. i use the drill mtr. and deepwell socket and torch
you can do a search on youtube for annealing brass and find every way there is to do it. i use the drill mtr. and deepwell socket and torch
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ejb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can do a search on youtube for annealing brass and find every way there is to do it. i use the drill mtr. and deepwell socket and torch</div></div>
I do this too. A bucket of cold water, a small cooking propane cylinder (~ $3.50), a pencil propane torch (~ $15) and a deep socket attached to a power drill. As the brass spins, you'll see it change color (i.e., "blue"). Toss it in the bucket and move to the next one. Doesn't take long to get through this. There are several easy to find youtube videos for this technique.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ejb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can do a search on youtube for annealing brass and find every way there is to do it. i use the drill mtr. and deepwell socket and torch</div></div>
I do this too. A bucket of cold water, a small cooking propane cylinder (~ $3.50), a pencil propane torch (~ $15) and a deep socket attached to a power drill. As the brass spins, you'll see it change color (i.e., "blue"). Toss it in the bucket and move to the next one. Doesn't take long to get through this. There are several easy to find youtube videos for this technique.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HANDYMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A more precise method is to dip the necks into molten lead until the lead won't stick. </div></div>
Yep, a perfectly consistant temperature, BUT, if you are going to do it this way then make sure you ONLY do it with the spent primers still in place, don't decap first. That will prevent lead from entering the inside of the case, where IF by chance it sticks, it's FUBAR.
I tried this at one time, and it was my conclusion that somewhere on that case body the temp of the brass is going to be cool enough to let a ring of lead stick. That is unless you raise the temp of the entire case to the non sticking point, which would anneal the entire case, which is a huge NO-NO.
It's a cool idea in theory, but a real pain in the ass in application......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HANDYMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A more precise method is to dip the necks into molten lead until the lead won't stick. </div></div>
Yep, a perfectly consistant temperature, BUT, if you are going to do it this way then make sure you ONLY do it with the spent primers still in place, don't decap first. That will prevent lead from entering the inside of the case, where IF by chance it sticks, it's FUBAR.
I tried this at one time, and it was my conclusion that somewhere on that case body the temp of the brass is going to be cool enough to let a ring of lead stick. That is unless you raise the temp of the entire case to the non sticking point, which would anneal the entire case, which is a huge NO-NO.
It's a cool idea in theory, but a real pain in the ass in application......
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: excaliber</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Make sure you get TEMP right. </div></div>
Yyyyyeah, but, "right" is really only defined by did you get it hot enough to anneal it, and did you not get it too hot to trash it.
There's a nice workable margin there.........
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: excaliber</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Make sure you get TEMP right. </div></div>
Yyyyyeah, but, "right" is really only defined by did you get it hot enough to anneal it, and did you not get it too hot to trash it.
There's a nice workable margin there.........
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: excaliber</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Make sure you get TEMP right. </div></div>
Yyyyyeah, but, "right" is really only defined by did you get it hot enough to anneal it, and did you not get it too hot to trash it.
There's a nice workable margin there......... </div></div>
I agree it still seems a bit like a hit and miss operation, if you are just starting out and doing it by hand.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: excaliber</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Make sure you get TEMP right. </div></div>
Yyyyyeah, but, "right" is really only defined by did you get it hot enough to anneal it, and did you not get it too hot to trash it.
There's a nice workable margin there......... </div></div>
I agree it still seems a bit like a hit and miss operation, if you are just starting out and doing it by hand.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I worked up a variation on the deepwell socket method. I have a drill with the threads on the side for a handle. I clamped a steel rod into my vice (at an angle to keep the drill from walking off) and slid my drill handle over the rod. This allows it to pivot and rotate around the axis of the rod. I set my torch in a spot along the radius of the drill's rotation on the rod and a pan of water below. Select a slow speed and lock the button so the drill is turning slowly. With the chuck more or less vertical, insert the case, then rotate it around into the flame. I've worked it out to about 8-10 seconds with the neck in the blue part of the flame (use tempilaq on a few to get an idea of where you need to be), then rotate it on around and let the case drop into the pan.
Once you get a good feel for this, you can knock out a hundred cases in 15 - 20 minutes.
I worked up a variation on the deepwell socket method. I have a drill with the threads on the side for a handle. I clamped a steel rod into my vice (at an angle to keep the drill from walking off) and slid my drill handle over the rod. This allows it to pivot and rotate around the axis of the rod. I set my torch in a spot along the radius of the drill's rotation on the rod and a pan of water below. Select a slow speed and lock the button so the drill is turning slowly. With the chuck more or less vertical, insert the case, then rotate it around into the flame. I've worked it out to about 8-10 seconds with the neck in the blue part of the flame (use tempilaq on a few to get an idea of where you need to be), then rotate it on around and let the case drop into the pan.
Once you get a good feel for this, you can knock out a hundred cases in 15 - 20 minutes.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
What annealing machines are out there, one could buy?
What annealing machines are out there, one could buy?
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TacBlade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What annealing machines are out there, one could buy? </div></div>
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=...024&bih=546
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TacBlade</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What annealing machines are out there, one could buy? </div></div>
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=...024&bih=546
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Thanks Tripwire! I did not know about that site "Google" LOL!!!
Thanks Tripwire! I did not know about that site "Google" LOL!!!
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I've personally used the propane torch method. It worked great, and made my brass significantly easier to resize after 5-6 firings!
I've personally used the propane torch method. It worked great, and made my brass significantly easier to resize after 5-6 firings!
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I have read about holding the shell in your fingers over the flame of a candle, constantly turning until it gets too hot to hold; then drop onto a wet towel to cool, Wipe the soot off with the towel. This would get mighty tiresome if you had many to do though.
I have read about holding the shell in your fingers over the flame of a candle, constantly turning until it gets too hot to hold; then drop onto a wet towel to cool, Wipe the soot off with the towel. This would get mighty tiresome if you had many to do though.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I saw a video demonstrating with a temperature sensing fluid - something called "tempalac" or something like that in a green bottle but that name is incorrect as I cannot find it using Google. Does someone know the correct name of the product?
I saw a video demonstrating with a temperature sensing fluid - something called "tempalac" or something like that in a green bottle but that name is incorrect as I cannot find it using Google. Does someone know the correct name of the product?
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jlow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I saw a video demonstrating with a temperature sensing fluid - something called "tempalac" or something like that in a green bottle but that name is incorrect as I cannot find it using Google. Does someone know the correct name of the product? </div></div>
Tempilaq, sold at most plumbing supply stores. They also make the Tempilstick.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jlow</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I saw a video demonstrating with a temperature sensing fluid - something called "tempalac" or something like that in a green bottle but that name is incorrect as I cannot find it using Google. Does someone know the correct name of the product? </div></div>
Tempilaq, sold at most plumbing supply stores. They also make the Tempilstick.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Thanks! Appreciate you help!
I have the Tempilstick but they don't work well for me. Their description gives you the idea that they are crayons which you can use to "paint" on the item you are testing but actually they require you to write on the hot item to see if it is hot enough. Hot items in the correct temp range will melt the tip of the "crayon". The problem with this is that you have a delay since you will have to remove the item from the flames and use the other hand to write on the casing. I am sure they work well in certain applications where the item is large and the temp is constant but it is a poor tool to test casings which are small and have fleeing temps.
Thanks! Appreciate you help!
I have the Tempilstick but they don't work well for me. Their description gives you the idea that they are crayons which you can use to "paint" on the item you are testing but actually they require you to write on the hot item to see if it is hot enough. Hot items in the correct temp range will melt the tip of the "crayon". The problem with this is that you have a delay since you will have to remove the item from the flames and use the other hand to write on the casing. I am sure they work well in certain applications where the item is large and the temp is constant but it is a poor tool to test casings which are small and have fleeing temps.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
That is precisely the problem. I brought the sticks thinking you could do what you suggested. The reality is that the sticks don’t “draw” at all and the only way I have found you could use it is to touch the brass after you heat it up.
That is precisely the problem. I brought the sticks thinking you could do what you suggested. The reality is that the sticks don’t “draw” at all and the only way I have found you could use it is to touch the brass after you heat it up.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes they are hard. They work better on rough pieces of iron than on smooth brass. Just keep rubbing and you will get a dusty line. That is all you need. </div></div>
You guys, and there's a LOT of you, applying temp stick or tempilac to a piece of brass, then rotating it in the flame.....REALLY think that the temp indicator isn't being influenced by the direct flame as your little powdery line, or spot of tempilac, rotates through it each time?
Don't think you can outsmart me by putting it inside the neck either, because that too poses two problems. 1.) regardless how smart you think you are the flame/heat is still rolling around the case mouth and into the inside of the neck. 2.) even if did work, you now have that junk that you need to get back out of the case neck.
Having been a pressure vessel boiler code welder for a fair part of my working career I've used a LOT of temp sticks in the line of duty. Somethings needed to be a certain temp before you could do anything to it, somethings couldn't go over a certain temp while you worked on it, and somethings were both. Pre heat, post heat, and some things maintaining a soak heat until the project was completed; as in T9 material, which on some of that stuff could last a week or more running three shifts on it. Those jobs were done with ceramic heater blankets instead of flame, but that's besides the point. You didn't touch the ceramic heater, to gauge the temp of the metal under it.
THE number one rule in all this was NEVER subject the temp indicator to the direct flame of your rose bud as it skews the results and fucks up the project. It doesn't take too much imagination to know how to do it right.
Those of you testing a piece of brass with the proper techniques for heat indicators and then extracting a time for the heat are probably getting as close as you possibly can, but that's assuming your flame is the EXACT temp everytime you anneal.
Those of you rotating the temp indicator through the flame are just plain fucking up in principle. You are doing it for the sake of an "accurate" temp, so at a minimum you are lying to yourself....
That said, it's my experience, which contradicts everything preached on the holy grail of annealing wisdom, 6mm.com, that there is a fairly wide range of temps that will actually correctly anneal a .013" thick piece of yellow brass. Meaning, your only worry to begin with is getting it hot enough to do the job, and not hot enough to fuck it up. So, hitting an exact temp everytime is an exercise in diminishing returns. Brass is either annealed or it isn't for our purposes, and there's no finite degree of "annealed" that matters to what we are doing with it.
A dark room, clean shiney brass, a simple propane torch with a lazy rich flame, a way to rotate the brass in the flame, and a very faint barely discernable change to a dull red color is all you need to anneal a .013" case neck. I know it's not as sexy as hammering out posts on the world wide web about the magic voodoo of annealing, and it doesn't do well for the annealing machine maker's bottom line.....but it's all you really need.
K.I.S.S..................
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes they are hard. They work better on rough pieces of iron than on smooth brass. Just keep rubbing and you will get a dusty line. That is all you need. </div></div>
You guys, and there's a LOT of you, applying temp stick or tempilac to a piece of brass, then rotating it in the flame.....REALLY think that the temp indicator isn't being influenced by the direct flame as your little powdery line, or spot of tempilac, rotates through it each time?
Don't think you can outsmart me by putting it inside the neck either, because that too poses two problems. 1.) regardless how smart you think you are the flame/heat is still rolling around the case mouth and into the inside of the neck. 2.) even if did work, you now have that junk that you need to get back out of the case neck.
Having been a pressure vessel boiler code welder for a fair part of my working career I've used a LOT of temp sticks in the line of duty. Somethings needed to be a certain temp before you could do anything to it, somethings couldn't go over a certain temp while you worked on it, and somethings were both. Pre heat, post heat, and some things maintaining a soak heat until the project was completed; as in T9 material, which on some of that stuff could last a week or more running three shifts on it. Those jobs were done with ceramic heater blankets instead of flame, but that's besides the point. You didn't touch the ceramic heater, to gauge the temp of the metal under it.
THE number one rule in all this was NEVER subject the temp indicator to the direct flame of your rose bud as it skews the results and fucks up the project. It doesn't take too much imagination to know how to do it right.
Those of you testing a piece of brass with the proper techniques for heat indicators and then extracting a time for the heat are probably getting as close as you possibly can, but that's assuming your flame is the EXACT temp everytime you anneal.
Those of you rotating the temp indicator through the flame are just plain fucking up in principle. You are doing it for the sake of an "accurate" temp, so at a minimum you are lying to yourself....
That said, it's my experience, which contradicts everything preached on the holy grail of annealing wisdom, 6mm.com, that there is a fairly wide range of temps that will actually correctly anneal a .013" thick piece of yellow brass. Meaning, your only worry to begin with is getting it hot enough to do the job, and not hot enough to fuck it up. So, hitting an exact temp everytime is an exercise in diminishing returns. Brass is either annealed or it isn't for our purposes, and there's no finite degree of "annealed" that matters to what we are doing with it.
A dark room, clean shiney brass, a simple propane torch with a lazy rich flame, a way to rotate the brass in the flame, and a very faint barely discernable change to a dull red color is all you need to anneal a .013" case neck. I know it's not as sexy as hammering out posts on the world wide web about the magic voodoo of annealing, and it doesn't do well for the annealing machine maker's bottom line.....but it's all you really need.
K.I.S.S..................
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Could anyone suggest deep well sockets they use for annealing for:
223
22-250
6.5mm Grendel
308
458 SOCOM
Thanks!
Could anyone suggest deep well sockets they use for annealing for:
223
22-250
6.5mm Grendel
308
458 SOCOM
Thanks!
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Could anyone suggest deep well sockets they use for annealing for:
223
22-250
6.5mm Grendel
308
458 SOCOM
Thanks!
</div></div>
I can only speak for .308. I use a Craftsman 1/4 drive 12mm deep socket for that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Could anyone suggest deep well sockets they use for annealing for:
223
22-250
6.5mm Grendel
308
458 SOCOM
Thanks!
</div></div>
I can only speak for .308. I use a Craftsman 1/4 drive 12mm deep socket for that.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks.
Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
That's welder jargon. Since you can't adjust the mixture on most propane torches anyway, it really doesn't matter. Just use a "medium" flame.
That's welder jargon. Since you can't adjust the mixture on most propane torches anyway, it really doesn't matter. Just use a "medium" flame.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks. </div></div>
Tripwire is a pressure vessel boiler code welder, so he works with equipment that most don't have. Fer instance, I have a Prest-O-Lite Acetylene Torch Outfit, that permits mixing of acetylene with air at the torch head, so no other source of air is necessary. With this it is easy to get a lazy rich (and still HOT) flame.
With most retail propane heads, this is not possible.
But thanx Tripwire . . . you've given me an idea!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks. </div></div>
Tripwire is a pressure vessel boiler code welder, so he works with equipment that most don't have. Fer instance, I have a Prest-O-Lite Acetylene Torch Outfit, that permits mixing of acetylene with air at the torch head, so no other source of air is necessary. With this it is easy to get a lazy rich (and still HOT) flame.
With most retail propane heads, this is not possible.
But thanx Tripwire . . . you've given me an idea!
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fnbrowning</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks. </div></div>
Tripwire is a pressure vessel boiler code welder, so he works with equipment that most don't have. Fer instance, I have a Prest-O-Lite Acetylene Torch Outfit, that permits mixing of acetylene with air at the torch head, so no other source of air is necessary. With this it is easy to get a lazy rich (and still HOT) flame.
With most retail propane heads, this is not possible.
But thanx Tripwire . . . you've given me an idea!
</div></div>
I used to do that stuff, but not anymore.......grin.
Now I'm gonna snap y'alls minds.....
No fancy expensive gear, just a DIY homemade rig........study this picture below.
It's a run of the mill propane torch that under normal circumstances has a very sharp and balanced flame. The problem I find with this arangement is that it's a bit difficult to get an EVEN heat where I want it. I like to wash a wider flame over the neck AND the shoulder, and have the entire area reach temp at the same time. First for savings in actual compounded work time, and second because I want the whole area annealed the same amount and not risk a hot spot.
On this normal burnzomatic torch head I picked up at true value, there are a series of holes that are "air" intakes for the "burn". To "rich" the mixture up just a little, which consequently makes the flame more lazy and "washing", means taking some of the "air" away from the fuel. A rich flame has more fuel than it needs, a lean flame has more oxygen than it needs.
To do this with my plain old burnzomatic torch, I fashioned an aluminum collar that slips down over the torch head, covers the air intake holes, and is locked in place with a small set screw. If you notice in the picture, the air intake holes are all covered up. It just so happens that there is just enough air getting in and under the collar to make the flame just the right amount of lazy and rich. When I made it I had figured that there would be a small sliver of the air intake holes exposed to let enough air into the mixture, but that's not the case. The holes are not completely sealed off, it's just that there's enough air slipping in and around the "looseness" of the collar.
It's also somewhat adjustable too. By unlocking it and slipping it up or down just a minute amount I can make it even more lazy than pictured, or I can point it up more. Where it's at now in the pic is where I have the best luck washing the neck/shoulder with flame. My anneal times per case are probably a tad slower than with a pointed pencil flame, but it's an even annealing, and I like the results.
I would imagine that you could find something in the drawers at the hardware store that you could make a collar out of, steel, brass, aluminum, no matter. I do know for a fact that just wrapping a little tape around the holes and poking pin holes through the tape until the flame is right, works. Though that wouldn't be as adjustable as a collar, and eventually the heat might get the tape and make a mess. You could maybe cut the side out of an aluminum beer can, wrap a piece of it around the holes, and use a small hose clamp to keep it in place. That makes some pretty good sense too.....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fnbrowning</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sgt_Jamez</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tripwire - What do you mean by a "lazy rich flame"? Excuse the noobness but I just dont get your meaning. Thanks. </div></div>
Tripwire is a pressure vessel boiler code welder, so he works with equipment that most don't have. Fer instance, I have a Prest-O-Lite Acetylene Torch Outfit, that permits mixing of acetylene with air at the torch head, so no other source of air is necessary. With this it is easy to get a lazy rich (and still HOT) flame.
With most retail propane heads, this is not possible.
But thanx Tripwire . . . you've given me an idea!
I used to do that stuff, but not anymore.......grin.
Now I'm gonna snap y'alls minds.....
No fancy expensive gear, just a DIY homemade rig........study this picture below.
It's a run of the mill propane torch that under normal circumstances has a very sharp and balanced flame. The problem I find with this arangement is that it's a bit difficult to get an EVEN heat where I want it. I like to wash a wider flame over the neck AND the shoulder, and have the entire area reach temp at the same time. First for savings in actual compounded work time, and second because I want the whole area annealed the same amount and not risk a hot spot.
On this normal burnzomatic torch head I picked up at true value, there are a series of holes that are "air" intakes for the "burn". To "rich" the mixture up just a little, which consequently makes the flame more lazy and "washing", means taking some of the "air" away from the fuel. A rich flame has more fuel than it needs, a lean flame has more oxygen than it needs.
To do this with my plain old burnzomatic torch, I fashioned an aluminum collar that slips down over the torch head, covers the air intake holes, and is locked in place with a small set screw. If you notice in the picture, the air intake holes are all covered up. It just so happens that there is just enough air getting in and under the collar to make the flame just the right amount of lazy and rich. When I made it I had figured that there would be a small sliver of the air intake holes exposed to let enough air into the mixture, but that's not the case. The holes are not completely sealed off, it's just that there's enough air slipping in and around the "looseness" of the collar.
It's also somewhat adjustable too. By unlocking it and slipping it up or down just a minute amount I can make it even more lazy than pictured, or I can point it up more. Where it's at now in the pic is where I have the best luck washing the neck/shoulder with flame. My anneal times per case are probably a tad slower than with a pointed pencil flame, but it's an even annealing, and I like the results.
I would imagine that you could find something in the drawers at the hardware store that you could make a collar out of, steel, brass, aluminum, no matter. I do know for a fact that just wrapping a little tape around the holes and poking pin holes through the tape until the flame is right, works. Though that wouldn't be as adjustable as a collar, and eventually the heat might get the tape and make a mess. You could maybe cut the side out of an aluminum beer can, wrap a piece of it around the holes, and use a small hose clamp to keep it in place. That makes some pretty good sense too.....
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I'd been meaning to make a video, but I've got all my brass annealed for now. I just took a couple of pics of my setup.
Clamp a rod (I used a 1/2" socket extension) into a vise at an angle to keep the drill from working out off the end.
Slide the drill handle over the rod so you can rotate it around on the rod. Arrange the torch so you can rotate the drill around and put the case neck into the flame (no flame here--just a mockup for the photo)
Turn the drill on and lock it at a low speed, pop a case into the socket, and rotate it into the flame.
Once it's been heated enough, rotate the drill on around and dunk it in the quench bath.
I did about 200 in under 45 minutes.
I'd been meaning to make a video, but I've got all my brass annealed for now. I just took a couple of pics of my setup.
Clamp a rod (I used a 1/2" socket extension) into a vise at an angle to keep the drill from working out off the end.
Slide the drill handle over the rod so you can rotate it around on the rod. Arrange the torch so you can rotate the drill around and put the case neck into the flame (no flame here--just a mockup for the photo)
Turn the drill on and lock it at a low speed, pop a case into the socket, and rotate it into the flame.
Once it's been heated enough, rotate the drill on around and dunk it in the quench bath.
I did about 200 in under 45 minutes.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I know this is an old post but figured someone may still be reading it. Saw an article about a guy who after annealing would dump the brass into CLR ( calcium, lime rust remover ) and let it sit for 2 hours. Can someone tell me if this has an affect on the process or does it just make his brass shiny.
I know this is an old post but figured someone may still be reading it. Saw an article about a guy who after annealing would dump the brass into CLR ( calcium, lime rust remover ) and let it sit for 2 hours. Can someone tell me if this has an affect on the process or does it just make his brass shiny.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I've always found it easier to tumble my brass with some corncob media and Lyman brass polish before annealing. This let's me see the color change alot easier. I do the same thing in pics above. Cheap and effective. Just make sure you know what to look for.... Case head getting too hot to touch, ect. Lapua brass I have found the hardest to indicate when to stop the flame. Any pointers?????
I've always found it easier to tumble my brass with some corncob media and Lyman brass polish before annealing. This let's me see the color change alot easier. I do the same thing in pics above. Cheap and effective. Just make sure you know what to look for.... Case head getting too hot to touch, ect. Lapua brass I have found the hardest to indicate when to stop the flame. Any pointers?????
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
One problem I encountered using a deep socket was that the heads of the cases will get too hot if you reach the temp to anneal the necks. I prefer a wet rag, but I've yet to figure out how to spin it with a drill. lol
GenePool and Tripwire, great info.
One problem I encountered using a deep socket was that the heads of the cases will get too hot if you reach the temp to anneal the necks. I prefer a wet rag, but I've yet to figure out how to spin it with a drill. lol
GenePool and Tripwire, great info.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Killshot, read rules 8 and 9 of the board rules.
Killshot, read rules 8 and 9 of the board rules.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
I like that setup Gene Pool. Pretty damn creative.
I like that setup Gene Pool. Pretty damn creative.
Re: What are the different ways to Anneal brass?
Unless I missed it, no one mentioned induction heating.
http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG.../**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbjhTXvwVPU
I'd like to see if some of the radiant tool,sterilizers in bio labs would work for this purpose also.
Unless I missed it, no one mentioned induction heating.
http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oG.../**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbjhTXvwVPU
I'd like to see if some of the radiant tool,sterilizers in bio labs would work for this purpose also.
