I’ve purchased 9 used thermal units and 1 new unit. All were higher end (BAE cores).
I’ve purchased 8 night vision devices (4 new and 4 used).
Pitfalls:
STOLEN MILITARY ITEMS
Many night vision, thermal, and laser devices begin life in US government possession. They “fall off a truck” one day and enter the civilian market.
If you know how much equipment we routinely give to terrorists (not just the recent Afghan debacle) you cannot possibly object morally to these devices. Nevertheless, they present three possible risks:
1. If the technology is new enough (current issue) CID may track the item down and take it from you. No refund. Prosecution is pretty much unheard of, for the buyer (military guy who “lost” it is screwed).
2. If the device ever needs service, it’s unlikely you can get it serviced since the manufacturer will know it shouldn’t be in your possession.
3. If you knew the device was stolen when you bought it, or realized that later, how do you market the device if you decide to sell?
It takes some familiarity with the market, market players, items in frequent use by the military, etc. to know if you’re buying a legit device or a stolen one. Usually you learn through some error
These items sell very cheap for the above mentioned reasons.
GREY MARKET ITEMS
Grey market items are usually things that manufacturers only sold to police agencies. The agency sells or trades the item (breaking manufacturers agreement) and it’s now in private hands. This is safer to own in one sense, but manufacturer support is unlikely.
These items usually sell above retail due to their hard to acquire nature and minimal risk.
SPECIFICATIONS
You’re buying a used thermal. Yay! The price seems good. Online specs say it has a 640x320 resolution sensor…
But does it really?
Earlier models may have had lesser resolution sensors. Or inferior display screens. Or be 30 hertz vs 60. Which version is the seller offering? Does he even know?
Night vision device specifications take LOTS of reading to learn. The difference between a $1000 tube and a $4000 tube are listed as strange numbers on a “spec sheet”. Beginners get taken for a ride here. Either put in the time to learn the lingo, get help from someone trusted in the field, or at the very least, call a VERY reputable dealer and ask for guidance.
DAMAGE
If a unit has any damage that affects functioning, call around and get a specific price from a company qualified to repair the item BEFORE you buy. Lots of items are sold because a switch or knob doesn’t work… if the repair was cheap (or even possible) it probably would have been done.
There’s a dead pixel in the screen. Is that the start of trouble from damage, or normal wear and tear? Is it in warranty?
MANUFACTURER SUPPORT
This is HUGE.
Make sure you’re buying from a company with a history of helping out their customers with problems. Hint* avoid FLIR.
Make sure there’s a clear and easy path to repair broken or defective components.
These devices are complex. There’s a lot that can go wrong. So be sure to get something that will have manufacturer support, or pay very very little for it (see point #1).
If not abused, most night vision or thermal devices will outlive your desire to use them. They will literally become technologically obsolete long before they wear out, so whatever you get, don’t be afraid to use it a ton!
For your open terrain coyotes, get something with 2.5x native magnum (or more). Halo LR and Reap-ir fit this role well and can be found used in the 5-6k range.
My experience with open terrain coyotes is that I literally get 10 times as many with thermal than night vision so that’s what I’d be looking for, but your hunting style will determine if that’s a fit for you.
