My family has been bugging me about what to get me for Xmas, and I really haven't been able to think of anything . So today it hit me, I've wanted to start reloading but never got around to picking it up so why not let them get me the equip. So my question to y'all is what is what equip/kits should I tell them? Ill mostley be loading 6.5cm, .308,.223, and .40s&w. I don't have to have the best, but would prefer good equipment I will use for quite awhile.
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What equipment to buy?
- Thread starter Btillr
- Start date
I started with an rcbs rock chucker kit. Later I sold it and bought different items more tailored to my reloading needs (read wants...) , so I ended up with a redding press, Sinclair trimmer, Harrell's powder thrower, redding scale and sartorius digital scale, just to name a few. The Lee trimmers are ok, Sinclair trimmer is slow but very accurate. The world finest trimmers are the way to go for bulk trimming.
So with all that said, if I had a mulligan for all the money I've spent, I would get an rcbs rock chucker or redding big boss press. Wft trimmers for each cartridge. Redding scale. Redding powder thrower. And rcbs hand priming tool to get started. I'm sure some will have other ideas.
So with all that said, if I had a mulligan for all the money I've spent, I would get an rcbs rock chucker or redding big boss press. Wft trimmers for each cartridge. Redding scale. Redding powder thrower. And rcbs hand priming tool to get started. I'm sure some will have other ideas.
How much is your (their) budget?? For under $100 they can get u the Lee hand press kit and 1 set of dies. The next step up is the single stage kits, then Lee's Turret press kit for 200ish, then it keeps climbing up to.... well however much you wanna ask 'em for. I had the hand press and I never regreted having it. Its an awesome way to start, and it led to other/better things later...
wake me up when the nightmare is gone..(2016 I hope)
wake me up when the nightmare is gone..(2016 I hope)
If you shoot a lot of .40 a progressive press is almost a must have. After loading a few hundred single stage you will agree. They are also great for plinking rounds for the .223. It's really nice to have both. I started with a Lee single stage kit that was pretty affordable then (fifteen or so years ago), which I still have. It came with all the basics: reloading book, scale, hand primer, powder thrower chamfer, deburring tool, bunch of other stuff I can't remember. Then I bought a couple used rock chuckers. I tried setting all three up in series to expedite my pistol reloading, didn't really work, finally just spent the money on a progressive. I bought the Hornady LNL it works fine. The Dillons might be better, I sure can't tell the difference. Good luck, it's fun, considerably cheaper, components are finally becoming available again.
The RCBS, Hornady, or Redding kits would be a good start, and serve you well forever. Lots of us started with one of those and slowly upgrade as we became more knowledgeable. Lots of others have never seen the need to upgrade. Midway has the RCBS kit on sale now. Theres really no wrong answer, and every reloader has their favs. Lightman
I got the RCBS rockchucker reloading kit when I started reloading in 1999.
1) Rockchucker press .. don't use it anymore, I now use Forster and Bonanza Co-ax presses with shellholer jaw housing I redesigned and made on my mill, and an RCBS Partner press.
2) "Speer 12" reloading manual... loads in it are a joke, I find my start load with Quickload software.
3) Bottle of glycerin for lube... don't use it any more, now use Redding imperial die wax.
4) Pad for applying glycerin... don't use it, I use my fingers.
5) Brush for lubing inside of case neck.. don't use it any more, I remove the expander ball so I don't need inside lube.
6) Loading tray made of plastic... don't use it. I seat bullets as soon as I charge the case, with a second press.
7) Wire brush for cleaning primer pockets. Don't use it.
8) 5-0-5 scale [Ohaus OEM]... I still use it.
9) Uniflow powder measure.... I still use it.
10) Inside outside neck chamfer [ Wilson OEM] I still use it.
11) case trimmer, don't use it anymore. I now use a Forster case trimmer or RCBS 3 way in the vertical mill
12) Funnel, don't use it, I use a Frankfort Arsenal or MTM funnel.
1) Rockchucker press .. don't use it anymore, I now use Forster and Bonanza Co-ax presses with shellholer jaw housing I redesigned and made on my mill, and an RCBS Partner press.
2) "Speer 12" reloading manual... loads in it are a joke, I find my start load with Quickload software.
3) Bottle of glycerin for lube... don't use it any more, now use Redding imperial die wax.
4) Pad for applying glycerin... don't use it, I use my fingers.
5) Brush for lubing inside of case neck.. don't use it any more, I remove the expander ball so I don't need inside lube.
6) Loading tray made of plastic... don't use it. I seat bullets as soon as I charge the case, with a second press.
7) Wire brush for cleaning primer pockets. Don't use it.
8) 5-0-5 scale [Ohaus OEM]... I still use it.
9) Uniflow powder measure.... I still use it.
10) Inside outside neck chamfer [ Wilson OEM] I still use it.
11) case trimmer, don't use it anymore. I now use a Forster case trimmer or RCBS 3 way in the vertical mill
12) Funnel, don't use it, I use a Frankfort Arsenal or MTM funnel.
Piece yours together. Ask for a rock chucker. Thats about the only original piece I have left. Really like the chargemaster but thats getting up there for a gift. Satern metal powder funnels are great too but ya kinda need one of each.
I appreciate all the responses over the holiday. I really like the idea of the redding t7 turret press and just piecing it together, but I don't know much about the "have to have" items to get going rolling my plinking ammo for the 40 and long range hunting and steel shooting for my 6.5cm. What would y'all consider the have to haves? What do y'all think of the Whidden micrometer dies? Would I be better served with a different set?
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this: http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/stm-complete-package.html 
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=RC98923&src=tpSlrHm]GeoVario LLC - Web Access[/url]. And a few small items chamfer tools and the such.
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=RC98923&src=tpSlrHm]GeoVario LLC - Web Access[/url]. And a few small items chamfer tools and the such.
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In addition to supplies, you need a press, dies, a scale, and one book at the minimum.
Since you are loadding a few calibers mostly rifle, a good single-stage press will work well, will have uses whatever you do in reloading in the future, and is a good way to start because you only have to watch/monitor one operation at a time. The Rockchucker has a good reputation, Forster Coax also has a good rep, and the Hornady Classic single-stage is also very good. Read up on them, watch videos (eg Youtube) showing them in use, check prices against budget and pick one.
I have four scales; two balance beam (Lee & RCBS), one digital (Hornady), and one digital tied to a powder dispenser (Pact). The last scale I bought was the RCBS 5-0-5, and I highly recommend it. Why? When the other scales disagree, flutter, or drift the easy to use RCBS is the final arbiter. I also found I am almost as fast weighing on the balance scale, and it is more accurate when trickling powder in to get to a specific exact final weight. Digital scales that accurate (including trickling) can get pretty expensive. (A set of RCBS check weights is a very important extra to calibrate your scale.)
With the presses above, you can make good ammo with any of the major manufacturers dies - Lee, RCBS, Hornady, Redding, etc. They are at different price points and have different quirks and benefits. Starting with the Lee dies is inexpensive and you can buy your $100 competition dies if and when you see a possible benefit from them.
All powder manufacturers put their load data on line. The press manufacturers have tutorial (marketing) videos on how to use their equipment. Youtube videos are very useful to see the presses operate under different conditions; they are less useful and sometimes flat out wrong if you listen to the advice given lol - just watch. You can also read "The ABCs of Reloading", a very old but useful book, for free on Google Read. But you should buy at least ONE data book from a bullet manufacturer, preferably chosen from among the bullets you actually use. I have the Sierra and the Hornady books, and either will suffice as your go to manual for reloading methods and data on YOUR bullets. The only one to avoid (IMO) is Lee - none of the data is original, and the "how-tos" are advertising for Lee equipment.
It's not a casual hobby, but its fun and rewarding - particularly when you create loads that are matched to your particular rifle . . . and shoot better at lower cost per bullet than factory.
Since you are loadding a few calibers mostly rifle, a good single-stage press will work well, will have uses whatever you do in reloading in the future, and is a good way to start because you only have to watch/monitor one operation at a time. The Rockchucker has a good reputation, Forster Coax also has a good rep, and the Hornady Classic single-stage is also very good. Read up on them, watch videos (eg Youtube) showing them in use, check prices against budget and pick one.
I have four scales; two balance beam (Lee & RCBS), one digital (Hornady), and one digital tied to a powder dispenser (Pact). The last scale I bought was the RCBS 5-0-5, and I highly recommend it. Why? When the other scales disagree, flutter, or drift the easy to use RCBS is the final arbiter. I also found I am almost as fast weighing on the balance scale, and it is more accurate when trickling powder in to get to a specific exact final weight. Digital scales that accurate (including trickling) can get pretty expensive. (A set of RCBS check weights is a very important extra to calibrate your scale.)
With the presses above, you can make good ammo with any of the major manufacturers dies - Lee, RCBS, Hornady, Redding, etc. They are at different price points and have different quirks and benefits. Starting with the Lee dies is inexpensive and you can buy your $100 competition dies if and when you see a possible benefit from them.
All powder manufacturers put their load data on line. The press manufacturers have tutorial (marketing) videos on how to use their equipment. Youtube videos are very useful to see the presses operate under different conditions; they are less useful and sometimes flat out wrong if you listen to the advice given lol - just watch. You can also read "The ABCs of Reloading", a very old but useful book, for free on Google Read. But you should buy at least ONE data book from a bullet manufacturer, preferably chosen from among the bullets you actually use. I have the Sierra and the Hornady books, and either will suffice as your go to manual for reloading methods and data on YOUR bullets. The only one to avoid (IMO) is Lee - none of the data is original, and the "how-tos" are advertising for Lee equipment.
It's not a casual hobby, but its fun and rewarding - particularly when you create loads that are matched to your particular rifle . . . and shoot better at lower cost per bullet than factory.
Any of the major brands will work and do the job. RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, even Lee. Same with dies. Start with a basic set. 2 die for rifle, 4 die for pistol and I prefer carbide dies for pistol. Then, if later you find you want or need the high in competition dies, get them. 2 die rifle sets are under $30, some even under $20.
I always suggest getting a single stage to start, as you will always have a use for it. And if you shoot a LOT, a progressive later. Dillon or Hornady for progressives. But you need to shoot a LOT to justify one. I can load 1000 .45ACP in an hour. If you only shoot a 1000 rounds per year, you only reload one hour per year.
I am a BIG fan of beam scales. Digital may give you that nice number out to 10 decimal places (kidding) but they are subject to all sorts of errors. You need to check them with scale check weights or cross check with a beam scale. So start with a beam scale. Then later get a digital if you see a need. For trickling charges, I find a beam is faster, as all I am looking at is the scale pointer. No looking and numbers and having to think about it.
I always suggest getting a single stage to start, as you will always have a use for it. And if you shoot a LOT, a progressive later. Dillon or Hornady for progressives. But you need to shoot a LOT to justify one. I can load 1000 .45ACP in an hour. If you only shoot a 1000 rounds per year, you only reload one hour per year.
I am a BIG fan of beam scales. Digital may give you that nice number out to 10 decimal places (kidding) but they are subject to all sorts of errors. You need to check them with scale check weights or cross check with a beam scale. So start with a beam scale. Then later get a digital if you see a need. For trickling charges, I find a beam is faster, as all I am looking at is the scale pointer. No looking and numbers and having to think about it.
I hardly believe anyone getting started needs 700 dollars worth of tumblers and powder dispensers. Especially when asking family members for gifts.
Why not buy good quality the first time. This is all you need and you can build high quality ammo, whether you are just starting out or building ammo for long range matches. Besides family members could go together and get him one piece. I think my recommendation is a good one. "Buy once, Cry once" Isn't that the motto?
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I started out with a used Dillon RL550B back about 20 years ago. I still have the same setup, and now appreciate much better how fortunate I was at the time. Every doggone caliber I have ever shot (except .22LR) has been loaded on that press.
Greg
Greg
I would get a Hornady Lock & Load press or equivalent from Lee as you can set up one time for each die, pop in and out
for next stage or calibre saves a lot of headache when starting off.
for next stage or calibre saves a lot of headache when starting off.
