What parameters to measure/control during reloading

[LostInTranslation]

Trying to learn more about reloading process - and I keep thinking - what are the parameters I need to measure/control.

Some obvious ones that come to mind

• Powered type/weight
• Bullet type/weight
• Brass vendor/
• Number of firing per brass

Slightly less obvious

• Bullet seating depth (how to measure?)
• Case length
• Case shoulder to end (pardon vague language)

I think there are other parameters (e.g. wall thickness, how circular brass is, neck sizing) I should be monitoring?

My immediate goal is to have sub MOA system up to 1000m. I shoot Tikka T1 TAC 6.5 creedmoor.

 

[6.5SH]

Consistency is key.

For the projectiles that equals quality bullets (Berger, Lapua etc.) otherwise you are hand sorting into small batches by weight and BTO.
For seating depth, measuring from the ogive is what you want (provided the COAL fits in your magazine).
Your cases should be segregated by lot and trimmed and annealed as needed.
Sizing should be as concentric as possible and enough to ensure reliable feeding and neck tension.
This usually requires a separate sizing die and a mandrel to set neck tension.
Powder charges should be in a node and ideally trickled to a consistent weight.

 

[camocorvette]

I'd suggest any edition of "the ABC's of reloading".
Give that a read and you should be squared away.
But yes your pretty spot on in your assumptions. Then things also change alot depending in what you end goal is for each particular load your developing. Depends on how much time you want to invest and how much money.

 

[Ravenworks]

Buy a reloading manual and start reading to start understanding the basics.
You going to buy on anyways.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Rather than try to list them all, here are a few additions and comments:

- Bullet seating depth: measure using the Hornady comparator tool, the actual number you’ll record is “cartridge base to ogive” or CBTO. You measure from the case head to the bullet ogive.
- Case headspace: this is the “case shoulder to end” you mentioned. You’re interested in what it is after firing in your rifle, then you resize to bump it back 0.002-3”. Use a different Hornady comparator insert to measure this; use Redding Competition Shell Holders to adjust shoulder bump. Don’t unscrew your sizing die to adjust bump, it’s really inconsistent to do so.
- Neck tension: compare OD of sized neck to OD of neck with a seated bullet. The difference is your tension; you want about 0.002-3” CONSISTENTLY.

Wall thickness is an advanced parameter, and is mostly set by what brass you buy. Worry about this later, not anytime soon. Case concentricity is maximized (same as saying runout is minimized) by buying a quality press, quality dies, and quality brass (Peterson or Lapua). Don’t buy a case runout gauge, they’re too expensive for too little benefit for where you’re at.

Also, 1 MOA at 1000 yds is a very different animal at 100 yards. Focus on trying to achieve sub-MOA at 100 with a low SD/ES across 10-15 shots at least (more is better). Sub-MOA at 1k depends on much, much more, so start with a sensible goal and work up.

 

[RLinNH]

Get Lymans 50th edition Reloading Handbook and read it. There is so much in play...

 

[308pirate]

Trying to learn more about reloading process - and I keep thinking - what are the parameters I need to measure/control.

Some obvious ones that come to mind

• Powered type/weight
• Bullet type/weight
• Brass vendor/
• Number of firing per brass

Slightly less obvious

• Bullet seating depth (how to measure?)
• Case length
• Case shoulder to end (pardon vague language)

I think there are other parameters (e.g. wall thickness, how circular brass is, neck sizing) I should be monitoring?

My immediate goal is to have sub MOA system up to 1000m. I shoot Tikka T1 TAC 6.5 creedmoor.

How many rounds of ammunition have you actually reloaded so far?

 

[Daddyusmaximus]

For those of us lowly grunts in the idiot "monkey see, monkey do" category, (I do better when taught in a class, with a demonstration) is there a recommended YouTube channel with good reloading practices on display?

"This is how you properly trim a case to length." ..... Then they do it.
"This is how you properly set up your dies." ..... Then they do it.
"This is how you properly measure overall length." ..... Then they do it.

That kind of thing.

 

[spife7980]

For those of us lowly grunts in the idiot "monkey see, monkey do" category, (I do better when taught in a class, with a demonstration) is there a recommended YouTube channel with good reloading practices on display?

"This is how you properly trim a case to length." ..... Then they do it.
"This is how you properly set up your dies." ..... Then they do it.
"This is how you properly measure overall length." ..... Then they do it.

That kind of thing.

By forum member elfster, it’s a 10 part that walks you through each step. You don’t have to anneal or sort brass but it shows it.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCyPEnjRX7ebb28MKusD6VfMZlnsNkpK0

 

[LostInTranslation]

Thank you for video link - going through them.
Thank you for re-emphasizing to read book - reading https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFTG1PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for grounding my expectations - will start with MOA at 100m

This project really ticked my engineering curiosity

 

[lash]

You’ve already received some good advice. I’ll add that there are some well written tutorials right here, on this forum, in this Reloading Depot section. They are pinned at the top of the first page, scroll a little ways down. Here’s some screen shots of nine of these tutorials:

Some of these were written and memorialized here as early as 2010 and while some improvements have been made in reloading gear, these basic concepts are all quite valid.

Good luck and have fun with your journey.

 

[NORCAL50]

Well, I reload with precision in mind. So...

It is too much of a hassle and expense to make bad range brass high quality i.e. neck turning, weight sorting etc. so I just buy lapua with neck thickness +/- 0.0005", 0.0005" total indicated runout on the necks, and +/- 0.2gr case weight. Much easier and cuts the amount of things you need to worry about by more than half.

Everything I measure in order:

• Annealed cases in some precise manner (Benchsource, Annealeez, AMP Mk. 2, and I think giraud now makes an induction annealer as well.) This will make sure all your cases spring back the same when resizing.
• Neck outside diameter (Should all be the same, +/- 0.0005") very easy to obtain with Lapua Brass, FL Size + Mandrel expander that is 0.0015" under bullet diameter for mag fed bolt gun. (0.0005" spring back + 0.0015" expander = 0.002" under bullet diameter aka neck tension).
• Headspace or "Case shoulder to end". This is measured with a headspace gauge. Hornady sells this and it just attaches to your calipers. Mine are all bumped back by 0.0015" from their fired state during the FL sizing process.
• Case trim length, +/- 0.0005", and SQUARE. i.e. rotate case in caliper jaws, measurement shouldn't change. I personally have bad luck with, and hate trimmers with pilots that get inserted into your sized necks because that pilot is never going to be perfectly concentric. So I use L.E. Wilson.
• Primer seating depth, I don't actually measure this but I know it's all the same.
• Powder charge measured out to 0.1gr is just fine, but 0.02gr will put you on the individual kernel.
• Bullet seating depth measured with a bullet comparator. Hornady also sells this, just slap it on your caliper. Mine are +/- 0.0005" when using good bergers and a forster seater. '
• Bullet total indicated runout, measured with a sinclair concentricity gauge. I aim for 0.001". (I only measure a few necks or bullets runout, and if they're all the same I forget about it.)

This is everything I measure for shooting sub half MOA groups with a factory rifle all day long. I don't do this but you can also tack on bullet seating pressures and... that's the only other thing I can think of.

 

[CK1.0]

Things you will need (but what most new reloaders don't buy soon enough, if you're serious these are NOT optional):

Comparator Body - attaches to your calipers to use the following measuring implements - https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00005b2000/lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-body

Headspace Comparator Bushing - used to measure your fired brass in order to determine shoulder bump - (for 6.5CM) https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....cartridge-headspace-bushing-point375-diameter

Bullet Comparator Insert - for measuring cartridge base to ogive (CBTO or BTO) - (for 6.5CM) https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00005526/lock-n-load-comparator-insert-point264-diameter

I listed the Hornady versions, but other brands/companies like Short Action Customs and some others make similar tools.

(Interesting caveat: your CBTO and headspace numbers only relate to others' numbers if using the same tools... there's no "standard" for these type of measuring tools as of yet: so if I give you a CBTO number based off measuring with Hornady shit, that exact number kind of means nothing unless you're also using the exact same Hornady shit. SO if you're ever trying to replicate someone else's numbers you need to ask them what they were using to measure with.)

 

[elfster1234]

All of my knowledge is dumped into this playlist

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCyPEnjRX7ebroUtwi37QHxtoFH-rI_MN