What parts of the rifle lend themselves to accuracy?

LilGucci

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Oct 7, 2019
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What parts of the rifle lend themselves to accuracy, and what should I be looking out for with each part? I'm a beginner to this so please bare with me haha

Barrel: I think the barrel is the most important part of an accuracy-focused build, from its profile to its length and weight, to what it's made out of or finished in.
Trigger: Helps you control the rate of fire and put your shots on target.
Buffer system: Helps you manage recoil, which tuned along with your gas system can give you a softer shooting experience
Compensator: Reduces recoil and muzzle rise for a flatter shooting experience
BCG: Helps you deal with higher pressures from match-grade ammo

That is my beginner knowledge of these parts. For an accuracy-focused build, is there anything more I should be considering? What role do the BCG and buffer play in an accuracy-focused build? Is there any part that I'm missing? These questions will guide me in building out my 3-gun competition and SPR AR.
 
What parts of the rifle lend themselves to accuracy, and what should I be looking out for with each part? I'm a beginner to this so please bare with me haha

Barrel: I think the barrel is the most important part of an accuracy-focused build, from its profile to its length and weight, to what it's made out of or finished in.
Trigger: Helps you control the rate of fire and put your shots on target.
Buffer system: Helps you manage recoil, which tuned along with your gas system can give you a softer shooting experience
Compensator: Reduces recoil and muzzle rise for a flatter shooting experience
BCG: Helps you deal with higher pressures from match-grade ammo

That is my beginner knowledge of these parts. For an accuracy-focused build, is there anything more I should be considering? What role do the BCG and buffer play in an accuracy-focused build? Is there any part that I'm missing? These questions will guide me in building out my 3-gun competition and SPR AR.

Barrel length has almost no bearing on true accuracy. Same thing with barrel profile.

The profile though does reduce or enhance barrel whip. Also they heat up differently so it all depends on the rate of fire and all that. A thin pencil barrel in other words might not be the best option for a higher volume of fire type weapon. For example pencil barrels might be good for hunting, but not so much for 3 gun competitions.

Buffer systems have almost zero influence on total accuracy. Same thing with compensators. BCG can have an influence but it has nothing to do with pressure. Match grade ammo does not universally have higher pressure, in fact it will most likely and in general be less pressure than a regular 5.56 round. What is potentially a key metric is the bolt, ie the actual bolt, not the entire carrier, and how it interfaces with the barrel extension of the rifle. I have one barrel that when I had it custom made they asked for the exact bolt I wanted to use. They matched the barrel to the bolt more or less.

On the other hand I have a barrel that wasn't matched to jack shit and it shoots great. I was able to lay down 10 shot groups in the vicinity of just over .5 MOA. Being realistic it was 10 shots in about .6 to maybe .7 MOA, and it was repeatable. That said I haven't shot groups with that gun for a really long time.

For what you are looking for (3 gun) or SPR, you just need MOA or better. Don't chase your tail. You will be wasting time and effort (not to mention money) trying to make a benchrest AR-15 for those applications.
 
Other than what I already said, the part that lends itself to accuracy is mostly in the ammo, or rather your ability to make it.

With the gun I mentioned that can shoot the 10 shot groups, if I feed it junk ammo it is at best a 3 MOA gun, and that would be on a good day. Same gun could lay down a sub minute group on the same day though if I shoot my loads through it.

Length and weight of the barrel have almost zero bearing on accuracy. What matters is how well the barrel was made.
 
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Other than what I already said, the part that lends itself to accuracy is mostly in the ammo, or rather your ability to make it.

With the gun I mentioned that can shoot the 10 shot groups, if I feed it junk ammo it is at best a 3 MOA gun, and that would be on a good day. Same gun could lay down a sub minute group on the same day though if I shoot my loads through it.

With this in mind, what do you find to be the most important part of the reloading process to achieve accuracy out of an AR?

I have an AR-10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. It is the Super Sniper from Wilson Combat and I just installed a fresh 24" barrel. I am struggling to get the consistency I am looking for. For example, I did some testing with two brass manufacturers (Lapua and Alpha Munitions). I was testing 5 different bullet seat depths for each case type in groups of 5. All the brass was new and this was the first fire. I shoot the Laupua 136gr Scenar-L with 38.5gr N550 powder and BR4 primers.

In a couple loads, i was able to get a decent group at about .9 MOA but for the most part, groups were not real consistent. I put this down, in part, to being first-fires and hope that once i reload them with a headspace more compatible with my chamber, the groups will become more consistent.

A part of me wants to get consistency compatible with a Bolt gun but i know that is wishful thinking.

What do you find to be most important for consistency in an AR platform... Bullet seat depth, setting the correct shoulder, or something else?
 
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With this in mind, what do you find to be the most important part of the reloading process to achieve accuracy out of an AR?

I have an AR-10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. It is the Super Sniper from Wilson Combat and I just installed a fresh 24" barrel. I am struggling to get the consistency I am looking for. For example, I did some testing with two brass manufacturers (Lapua and Alpha Munitions). I was testing 5 different bullet seat depths for each case type in groups of 5. All the brass was new and this was the first fire. I shoot the Laupua 136gr Scenar-L with 38.5gr N550 powder and BR4 primers.

In a couple loads, i was able to get a decent group at about .9 MOA but for the most part, groups were not real consistent. I put this down, in part, to being first-fires and hope that once i reload them with a headspace more compatible with my chamber, the groups will become more consistent.

A part of me wants to get consistency compatible with a Bolt gun but i know that is wishful thinking.

What do you find to be most important for consistency in an AR platform... Bullet seat depth, setting the correct shoulder, or something else?
I don't think there is a magic bullet, no pun intended. The first step to me is using quality components, particularly the bullet choice. Some barrels quite simply like certain bullets more. One of my ARs loves 69gr Sierra Matchkings for example. Consequently that is the only thing I run through that gun now. I would think this is probably the top factor overall. While you might like X type of Berger, your gun might like Y type and weight of Berger instead.

Other than that selecting the right powder matters. While X variety of powder might be an overall excellent choice, there might be other stuff that works better with the specific combo you are using.

Building that information up is not easy as sometimes it means buying 1lb of 10 different powders. If you read carefully and set up criteria of what you want to achieve, and look at how certain powders act with certain bullet weights it can help narrow down choices a lot. IE if you see one powder that works really good in other people's/companies tests with light bullets, but it works only so so with heavy bullets, generally speaking don't think you will magically get a different result for the grain weight of bullet that you shoot.

I would also say do not chase velocity. Yes you need enough to make things work, but depending on what you are trying to accomplish the internet would have you think that 'more throttle' will fix everything. Do not be afraid to back off of loads.

If you are starting from scratch it's one thing, but for example with my 69gr SMKs, I know they shoot well in that barrel. If I want to test another powder for that gun I keep things consistent and see how other powders work with that bullet. That said I still work up loads with brand new things from time to time. With that the key is being able to notice when you are on to something and when you are not. Having an efficient testing method is important.

If you are not using expanding mandrels then start. This made a big difference in being able to control my SD/ES.

Also one thing that I proved to myself is that the shooter matters. I bought a new Labradar a couple of years ago and I ran tests on loads that I previously developed to see 'really' where I was at. As part of that test I would intentionally square up in a proper prone position and I would control the pressure I was placing on the stock with my shoulder.

In other tests with the exact same load I kind of did a 'free recoil'. IE didn't put very much pressure on the stock and kind of let it do it's thing (to a point). The end result was that I could see a pattern of how that impacted SD and extreme spread. Simply put I was able to induce it one way or another based on what I was doing behind the gun. That is not to say some loads are not better than others, but how are you going to know if it's you or if it's your load? So in other words if a person shot Erik Cortina's single digit SD loads, out of his gun, on a perfect day, that shooter can induce a whole lot more SD/ES based on how they shoot.

Basically the totality of the results of the system is what matters. If you know you have good brass, then move on to something else. Trying to compare Lapua to Peterson probably isn't going to give you the improvements you are after, at least in the context of the overall reloading process.

Final note is knowing what is good enough based on what kind of shooting you are doing. Trying to get .1 something groups isn't always the best use of time and resources. That said if you get something that consistently shoots .5 MOA or whatever, and it satisfies your shooting discipline then just roll with it.
 
The Essentials of an Accurate AR-15


krieger_barreled_ar-15_002-1353853-2568972.jpg



Without making this overly complicated, you need three basic components for a semi-automatic AR-15 to produce its best mechanical accuracy (technically, precision): a match-grade barrel, a quality free-float handguard and match-grade ammunition, preferably hand-loads tuned for your barrel. (The free-float handguard doesn’t add to the accuracy of the barrel per se, it simply prevents any outside influence from detracting from the accuracy of the barrel.) Anything after that will not immensely improve the mechanical accuracy of the semi-automatic AR-15, but several things can help you, the shooter, shoot to the level of the intrinsic accuracy of your semi-automatic AR-15.

While there are certainly gifted individuals among us that can do amazing things with iron sights, most of us will benefit from using a quality, high-power scope to achieve the highest level of accuracy/precision from an AR-15. In order to hit the exact same spot on the target every time, you have to be able to see that you are holding on the exact same spot every time. It’s also important for the scope to be mounted at the proper height and at the correct eye-relief for the particular scope.

In order to maintain that exact hold on the target throughout the trigger pull, it helps not to be fighting with a heavy, gritty, stock trigger. There are a variety of aftermarket triggers now on the market for both standard size trigger pins and the larger Colt trigger pins. Personal preference will definitely play a role in trigger selection. Among the two-stage triggers, I’ve found the Geissele High Speed National Match triggers to be the smoothest, lightest, most consistent and most reliable.

Following the scope and trigger selection, some shooters will find that items like aftermarket grips and stocks will help them achieve a better “fit” with their AR-15. (Shooters don’t all come in the exact same size and shape.) Once you’ve put your accurate rig together, you have to find a match-grade factory load that your barrel “likes” or better yet, develop a match-grade handload for it.

A semi-automatic AR-15 is not going to shoot to the same level as a precision bolt-gun, but today’s precision AR-15s are capable of a level of accuracy/precision that is truly outstanding for a semi-automatic rifle. The 10-shot group pictured below was fired from one of my Krieger barreled semi-automatic AR-15s from a distance of 100 yards The group has an extreme spread of 0.467 MOA.




55_blitzking_from_223_krieger_at_100_yar-2451105.jpg



 
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What parts of the rifle lend themselves to accuracy, and what should I be looking out for with each part? I'm a beginner to this so please bare with me haha

Barrel: I think the barrel is the most important part of an accuracy-focused build, from its profile to its length and weight, to what it's made out of or finished in.
Trigger: Helps you control the rate of fire and put your shots on target.
Buffer system: Helps you manage recoil, which tuned along with your gas system can give you a softer shooting experience
Compensator: Reduces recoil and muzzle rise for a flatter shooting experience
BCG: Helps you deal with higher pressures from match-grade ammo

That is my beginner knowledge of these parts. For an accuracy-focused build, is there anything more I should be considering? What role do the BCG and buffer play in an accuracy-focused build? Is there any part that I'm missing? These questions will guide me in building out my 3-gun competition and SPR AR.
You are correct in my opinion. The best quality barrel you can afford properly mated to your receiver is the starting point of accuracy/precision. How well the barrel fits the upper receiver is paramount.
 
Barrel length has almost no bearing on true accuracy. Same thing with barrel profile.

The profile though does reduce or enhance barrel whip. Also they heat up differently so it all depends on the rate of fire and all that. A thin pencil barrel in other words might not be the best option for a higher volume of fire type weapon. For example pencil barrels might be good for hunting, but not so much for 3 gun competitions.

Buffer systems have almost zero influence on total accuracy. Same thing with compensators. BCG can have an influence but it has nothing to do with pressure. Match grade ammo does not universally have higher pressure, in fact it will most likely and in general be less pressure than a regular 5.56 round. What is potentially a key metric is the bolt, ie the actual bolt, not the entire carrier, and how it interfaces with the barrel extension of the rifle. I have one barrel that when I had it custom made they asked for the exact bolt I wanted to use. They matched the barrel to the bolt more or less.

On the other hand I have a barrel that wasn't matched to jack shit and it shoots great. I was able to lay down 10 shot groups in the vicinity of just over .5 MOA. Being realistic it was 10 shots in about .6 to maybe .7 MOA, and it was repeatable. That said I haven't shot groups with that gun for a really long time.

For what you are looking for (3 gun) or SPR, you just need MOA or better. Don't chase your tail. You will be wasting time and effort (not to mention money) trying to make a benchrest AR-15 for those applications.
That's good advice. I think I'll stick with 16" inches then and scrap the SPR type barrels (18-inch+) at least for my 556 builds. I'll still have one with an LPVO just to reach out to 400+ yards but I think I'm good with that, especially if I train and get consistent with hitting targets at that range. I really wanted a 20" Shilen to mirror the Radian Model 1 as close as possible in terms of specs for one of my builds but that just be extra unnecessary weight. Especially if I'm not gaining accuracy with the extra length.
 
Barrel, trigger, optics
Barrel should be ported correctly.
Trigger follow through is very important, more so on an AR than a bolt gun with a fast lock time.

What I have never understood about people, they'll buy a $99 barrel then spend $400 on a handguard and $200 on a charge handle.
Can’t see the barrel on the ‘gram when it’s covered by a sick-ass handguard.
 
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Owner at V Seven said a Ti or steel barrel nut over an aluminum one was right behind rigidity of the upper, which was also behind barrel profile - assuming barrel quality has already been maxed out - for incremental accuracy gains. I first questioned it, since an aluminum upper would seem to mate best with the same material, for heat transfer as well as expansion properties, but after seeing how little material is used in lightweight barrel nuts at least, I tend to agree.
 
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The Essentials of an Accurate AR-15


krieger_barreled_ar-15_002-1353853-2568972.jpg



Without making this overly complicated, you need three basic components for a semi-automatic AR-15 to produce its best mechanical accuracy (technically, precision): a match-grade barrel, a quality free-float handguard and match-grade ammunition, preferably hand-loads tuned for your barrel. (The free-float handguard doesn’t add to the accuracy of the barrel per se, it simply prevents any outside influence from detracting from the accuracy of the barrel.) Anything after that will not immensely improve the mechanical accuracy of the semi-automatic AR-15, but several things can help you, the shooter, shoot to the level of the intrinsic accuracy of your semi-automatic AR-15.

While there are certainly gifted individuals among us that can do amazing things with iron sights, most of us will benefit from using a quality, high-power scope to achieve the highest level of accuracy/precision from an AR-15. In order to hit the exact same spot on the target every time, you have to be able to see that you are holding on the exact same spot every time. It’s also important for the scope to be mounted at the proper height and at the correct eye-relief for the particular scope.

In order to maintain that exact hold on the target throughout the trigger pull, it helps not to be fighting with a heavy, gritty, stock trigger. There are a variety of aftermarket triggers now on the market for both standard size trigger pins and the larger Colt trigger pins. Personal preference will definitely play a role in trigger selection. Among the two-stage triggers, I’ve found the Geissele High Speed National Match triggers to be the smoothest, lightest, most consistent and most reliable.

Following the scope and trigger selection, some shooters will find that items like aftermarket grips and stocks will help them achieve a better “fit” with their AR-15. (Shooters don’t all come in the exact same size and shape.) Once you’ve put your accurate rig together, you have to find a match-grade factory load that your barrel “likes” or better yet, develop a match-grade handload for it.

A semi-automatic AR-15 is not going to shoot to the same level as a precision bolt-gun, but today’s precision AR-15s are capable of a level of accuracy/precision that is truly outstanding for a semi-automatic rifle. The 10-shot group pictured below was fired from one of my Krieger barreled semi-automatic AR-15s from a distance of 100 yards The group has an extreme spread of 0.467 MOA.




55_blitzking_from_223_krieger_at_100_yar-2451105.jpg




Wow that's really cool to know that a Krieger could do that. I think them and Bartlein are amongst my top two choices for an SPR build, or maybe I could throw it on one of my other builds, I was looking at Compass Lake Engineering and they seem to have both in stock. I haven't thought too much about triggers except that I know I want a Geissele (haven't decided which one yet) and a Larue MBT. The rest of my trigger selections are either based on mimicing the specs of a build I want to model after, or brands that are popular with the precision bolt action rifle community like Timney and Trigger Tech. I also haven't put much thought into the stock or the grip.

And as far as ammo goes, I don't even know where to start haha. I'm not going to be reloading, that much I know, at least for now. That could change in the future if I move into a bigger space and can have my own gun room to set up equipment in. But I was just planning on buying off-the-shelf ammo or online.
 
If you’re close enough, you can shoot 1” groups with just about anything…
I know you are correct. You can shoot 1 INCH groups with anything. But.....
And then they go online and claim that they're getting 1 MOA accuracy with XM193.

.....
A 1" group being 1 MOA is only at 95.5 yards. Imagine how outstanding (or not) a 1" group is at 10 yards.
 
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That's good advice. I think I'll stick with 16" inches then and scrap the SPR type barrels (18-inch+) at least for my 556 builds. I'll still have one with an LPVO just to reach out to 400+ yards but I think I'm good with that, especially if I train and get consistent with hitting targets at that range. I really wanted a 20" Shilen to mirror the Radian Model 1 as close as possible in terms of specs for one of my builds but that just be extra unnecessary weight. Especially if I'm not gaining accuracy with the extra length.
I can reliably hit to 800 yards with my 16" gun. You can get whatever length you would like. Just know that length does not equal quality. You can have a really good 12.5", 14.5, 16, 18, or whatever length. Your statement about length=accuracy would be about like saying you want a car with a bigger gas tank so you can get better fuel mileage. You can probably find a car with a great big gas tank AND that gets good gas mileage, but just because you have a big gas tank does not have any bearing on the gas mileage.

In other words don't make those kinds of assumptions. Get/build what you want. What would probably be a good thing would be to study or watch/listen to podcasts or whatever about what criteria make a barrel accurate.

It is also worth noting that 'accurate' is a relative term. On one of Erik Cortina's recent YouTube episodes he told a story about a benchrest guy that was mad that his rifle wouldn't shoot. When Erik asked him he said it was shooting all the way up in the .18 MOA range when it should have been down in the .15 or less area.

Accuracy is relative to the job.
 
^^ The lilgucci “help me decide” saga must be the longest running cock-tease on SH.
I know you are correct. You can shoot 1 INCH groups with anything. But.....

A 1" group being 1 MOA is only at 95.5 yards. Imagine how outstanding (or not) a 1" group is at 10 yards.
Yes, I understand. The post was meant as a joke, subtly poking fun at those that would make such claims, and proposing that those making such claims could/would conflate angular and linear measurements. (Like that has ever happened on SH before... 🙄) My larger point is encapsulated in the cartoon below...

DE8B6643-FBE7-471A-82D5-E952C5D6DCA0.jpeg


Shoot a 1” group and post it up on the web as a 100y, or 1000y group. No one can dis/prove the point.

For the most part, the only reason to post build or group pics is for Internet cool-guy points. Internet accuracy claims are not disprovable, and are therefore, not real data points.

Claiming that m193 or m855 is moa or better ammo is laughable, but that does not prevent someone from jerking 3 into a tiny group then boasting about their rack grade ar and budget ammo.
 
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^^ The lilgucci “help me decide” saga must be the longest running cock-tease on SH.

Yes, I understand. The post was meant as a joke, subtly poking fun at those that would make such claims, and proposing that those making such claims could/would conflate angular and linear measurements. (Like that has ever happened on SH before... 🙄) My larger point is encapsulated in the cartoon below...

View attachment 8032722

Shoot a 1” group and post it up on the web as a 100y, or 1000y group. No one can dis/prove the point.

For the most part, the only reason to post build or group pics is for Internet cool-guy points. Internet accuracy claims are not disprovable, and are therefore, not real data points.

Claiming that m193 or m855 is moa or better ammo is laughable, but that does not prevent someone from jerking 3 into a tiny group then boasting about their rack grade ar and budget ammo.
Yeah, I understood all of what you were getting at...and I am very glad that you understand the difference between 1MOA and 1". Not arguing or anything, you are right on the money.
One of my pet peeves is the "missed it by 4 inches" when it should be missed it by 2 MOA or 3 MIL or whatever that reticle is reading.
 
Or...here is some more Gucci shit but far more useful, just got it together.
View attachment 8032775
Very, very nice..............don't know how long you waited for Radian parts; I gave up trying to get any receivers from them over the last 18 months, but I see they are down to a few weeks on lowers now, still 2-3 months of uppers w/ rails.

Too bad as they do make nice stuff.

MM
 
^^ The lilgucci “help me decide” saga must be the longest running cock-tease on SH.
And the stupid fuck was in a hurry because of being in OR, & he hasn't bought a single piece of hardware yet........................just a TROLL.

But he's given a lot of guys a soapbox. ;)

MM
 
With this in mind, what do you find to be the most important part of the reloading process to achieve accuracy out of an AR?

I have an AR-10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. It is the Super Sniper from Wilson Combat and I just installed a fresh 24" barrel. I am struggling to get the consistency I am looking for. For example, I did some testing with two brass manufacturers (Lapua and Alpha Munitions). I was testing 5 different bullet seat depths for each case type in groups of 5. All the brass was new and this was the first fire. I shoot the Laupua 136gr Scenar-L with 38.5gr N550 powder and BR4 primers.

In a couple loads, i was able to get a decent group at about .9 MOA but for the most part, groups were not real consistent. I put this down, in part, to being first-fires and hope that once i reload them with a headspace more compatible with my chamber, the groups will become more consistent.

A part of me wants to get consistency compatible with a Bolt gun but i know that is wishful thinking.

What do you find to be most important for consistency in an AR platform... Bullet seat depth, setting the correct shoulder, or something else?
Buy a better barrel and shoot factory 140s out of it...or try 120gr SMKs. Yeah the BC isn't great but if you can't get good accuracy with that bullet there is a problem somewhere.
 
Very, very nice..............don't know how long you waited for Radian parts; I gave up trying to get any receivers from them over the last 18 months, but I see they are down to a few weeks on lowers now, still 2-3 months of uppers w/ rails.

Too bad as they do make nice stuff.

MM
That was about 8 months for a builders set. I REALLY like this set. I am most likely going to get another set or 3.
 
I can reliably hit to 800 yards with my 16" gun. You can get whatever length you would like. Just know that length does not equal quality. You can have a really good 12.5", 14.5, 16, 18, or whatever length. Your statement about length=accuracy would be about like saying you want a car with a bigger gas tank so you can get better fuel mileage. You can probably find a car with a great big gas tank AND that gets good gas mileage, but just because you have a big gas tank does not have any bearing on the gas mileage.

In other words don't make those kinds of assumptions. Get/build what you want. What would probably be a good thing would be to study or watch/listen to podcasts or whatever about what criteria make a barrel accurate.

It is also worth noting that 'accurate' is a relative term. On one of Erik Cortina's recent YouTube episodes he told a story about a benchrest guy that was mad that his rifle wouldn't shoot. When Erik asked him he said it was shooting all the way up in the .18 MOA range when it should have been down in the .15 or less area.

Accuracy is relative to the job.
A lot of the gun content I consume are either Youtube recommendations, or channels that are posted on here. Do you know of any really good podcasts that talk about AR-15's and AR-10's? For me, accurate would be 1 MOA or less at 100 yards to start. I'd like to eventually train until I can hit moving targets at 400 yards, and standing targets at 800 yards but that will come down the road.
 
And the stupid fuck was in a hurry because of being in OR, & he hasn't bought a single piece of hardware yet........................just a TROLL.

But he's given a lot of guys a soapbox. ;)

MM
I don't know why you keep calling me a troll. If you have been following my posts, you'll see that:

1.) I've spent $16,000 first in late October, and another $4000 since then on firearms / accessories / magazines / and ammo.

2.) I'm done spending money for the year and I cannot afford to spend any more money building out my AR's until next year.

3.) I'm going to spend the first 4 months of 2023 getting $7,000 worth of suppressors, and then in May I will start building out my first AR.

4.) I had 5 AR-15 receivers (3 Radian, 1 Noveske, 1 PSA), and have recently acquired 3 more Aero precision AR-15 receivers. So I plan to build a total of 7 rifles.

5.) I do have the AR-15 lowers, and 3 Radian Builder Kits.

6.) I have $14,000 left to save up to finish building out all 7 Rifles (not including accessories, suppressors, or optics).

IMG-0110.jpg

unnamed.jpg
 
I don't know why you keep calling me a troll. If you have been following my posts, you'll see that:

1.) I've spent $16,000 first in late October, and another $4000 since then on firearms / accessories / magazines / and ammo.

2.) I'm done spending money for the year and I cannot afford to spend any more money building out my AR's until next year.

3.) I'm going to spend the first 4 months of 2023 getting $7,000 worth of suppressors, and then in May I will start building out my first AR.

4.) I had 5 AR-15 receivers (3 Radian, 1 Noveske, 1 PSA), and have recently acquired 3 more Aero precision AR-15 receivers. So I plan to build a total of 7 rifles.

5.) I do have the AR-15 lowers, and 3 Radian Builder Kits.

6.) I have $14,000 left to save up to finish building out all 7 Rifles (not including accessories, suppressors, or optics).

View attachment 8033383
View attachment 8033384
So those are the parts your trying to sell ?
 
^^ The lilgucci “help me decide” saga must be the longest running cock-tease on SH.

I think it's a good thing to encourage more people, especially young people, to get into firearms and firearm sports. It is my wish that every young person gets into precision rifle shooting and 3-gun competitions.
 
I think some of you are salty that I'm spending this kind of money on guns. Jealousy is a human trait that really plagues women hard and some of you in here have it strongly. I'm not rich, I just work extra hard for my hobbies (skiing, cars, off-roading, music creation, sports) and I'm in a position to do this at this point in my life with no kids or mortgage or car payments. I'm not showing off any wealth, I'm just really passionate about guns and this is the year, spurred on by events in my state of Oregon, is the year I start my gun collection of the guns I'd be happy to own for the rest of my life. Some of you will spend this kind of money over the course of a decade, I have a short window to buy all of these things at once, I'm only here to get advice so that I do it right the first time around. For those of you who have been providing constructive feedback, I cannot thank you enough. If this thread or any of my other threads look like a dick-comparing contest, you are more then free to go find a thread that better suits your taste and interests.
 
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I think some of you are salty that I'm spending this kind of money on guns. Jealousy is a human trait that really plagues women hard and some of you in here have it strongly. I'm not rich, I just work extra hard for my hobbies (skiing, cars, off-roading, music creation, sports) and I'm in a position to do this at this point in my life with no kids or mortgage or car payments. I'm not showing off any wealth, I'm just really passionate about guns and this is the year, spurred on by events in my state of Oregon, is the year I start my gun collection of the guns I'd be happy to own for the rest of my life. Some of you will spend this kind of money over the course of a decade, I have a short window to buy all of these things at once, I'm only here to get advice so that I do it right the first time around. For those of you who have been providing constructive feedback, I cannot thank you enough. If this thread or any of my other threads look like a dick-comparing contest, you are more then free to go find a thread that better suits your taste and interests.
Doesn't matter how small it is as long as it works (y)
 
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Men ask for advice, buy the shit, build the shit, and go shoot the shit. Women drag the buying process out into an ordeal, wrestle with every decision, and vassilate like a fricken metronome. When they do make a decision, they flaunt what they purchased (or received as a gift) and make a big deal about how much “it” cost.

There’s a lot of guys on this site with more in one gun than you are bragging about spending on your entire arsenal. Don’t believe me? Go to “vintage” and make a thread about wanting to buy a machine gun. Or go to “scattergun” and ask for advice on a bespoke London double gun. If you have to ask how much they cost, you can’t afford it. Don’t worry, they’ll post pics but won’t rub your nose in what they spent.

Edit- and beyond the above, you’re starting to parrot advice, like spending money on guns you haven’t assembled- let alone fired- gives you some sort of credibility.

Be excited. Be passionate. But, you come across like a girl in a prom dress store.
 
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Men ask for advice, buy the shit, build the shit, and go shoot the shit. Women drag the buying process out into an ordeal, wrestle with every decision, and vassilate like a fricken metronome. When they do make a decision, they flaunt what they purchased (or received as a gift) and make a big deal about how much “it” cost.

There’s a lot of guys on this site with more in one gun than you are bragging about spending on your entire arsenal. Don’t believe me? Go to “vintage” and make a thread about wanting to buy a machine gun. Or go to “scattergun” and ask for advice on a bespoke London double gun. If you have to ask how much they cost, you can’t afford it. Don’t worry, they’ll post pics but won’t rub your nose in what they spent.
And I've never rubbed it in anyones nose, you can look back through all of my threads. I've seen the picture galleries on here, people with 3 to 5 LMT MWS and KAC SR25's, people with entire Bolt Action collections with Nightforce/Khales everything and suppressors on every gun, the amount I've spent is nothing compared to what I've seen on here. But my spending on guns is the only thing I can think of as to why I attract a lot of doubters and people who throw shade at my entry into firearms. Why else do you think I get haters on here? I've just joined AR15.com and most people on there have been pretty nice to me. Maybe its my name that draws all of the hate. I can't think of anything else.

I'm not dragging the buying process out, I'm planning out what my builds will be so that I do it right, using information from one of the best sites on the internet for this hobby.
 
And I've never rubbed it in anyones nose, you can look back through all of my threads. I've seen the picture galleries on here, people with 3 to 5 LMT MWS and KAC SR25's, people with entire Bolt Action collections with Nightforce/Khales everything and suppressors on every gun, the amount I've spent is nothing compared to what I've seen on here. But my spending on guns is the only thing I can think of as to why I attract a lot of doubters and people who throw shade at my entry into firearms. Why else do you think I get haters on here? I've just joined AR15.com and most people on there have been pretty nice to me. Maybe its my name that draws all of the hate. I can't think of anything else.

I'm not dragging the buying process out, I'm planning out what my builds will be so that I do it right, using information from one of the best sites on the internet for this hobby.
Why no mention of LWRC ?
 
Why no mention of LWRC ?
I don't know too much about LWRC. I know they're spendy, but they are also not super popular compared to LMT, JP, and KAC. Even Seekins, GAP, and Larue get more mention than them on here, or that has been my experience here. They are not as unpopular as Barrett or the Sig DMR, but not a top5 name when it comes to AR-10's.
 
I don't know too much about LWRC. I know they're spendy, but they are also not super popular compared to LMT, JP, and KAC. Even Seekins, GAP, and Larue get more mention than them on here, or that has been my experience here. They are not as unpopular as Barrett or the Sig DMR, but not a top5 name when it comes to AR-10's.
I avoid super popular and try to go with quality myself.
 
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I avoid super popular and try to go with quality myself.
That's a good way to look at it. I crowdsource feedback because if more people have had good experience with something then I tend to trust it more. Maybe LWRC is a hidden gem then and deserve more attention. I fangirl over the Geissele Super Duty AR-15 upper because I've shot my brothers and I really like it, but if I ever run into someone with an LWRC I'd love to check it out. I only have DPMS LR 308 lowers so I don't know if that is compatible with a REPR upper, and they are quite spendy; for the cost of one REPR upper I could get a JP (which I do plan to get). I'll have to look more deeply into it to make sure its worth the money.

 
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This looks really interesting but will the skeletonized upper receiver have reliability issues in adverse weather conditions, like rain, snow, sand, and mud? The carbon fiber handguard is pretty cool but does it mlok or keymod on the top and bottom for lights, lasers, and bipod mounting points?
It would definitely have all sorts of reliability issues....hence Gucci shit. Also, extremely light and not easy to shoot accurately. There are mlok adapters for the Brigand Arms handguard. Gucci or not, I like it for what it is. It is not the one I grab in the middle of the night. I have a Wilson Combat that I do. That Radian is untested but it is very likely to become the one I grab in the middle of the night. It has a 14.5" barrel but I pinned and welded a TBAC brake on to avoid the SBR bullshit.
 
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It would definitely have all sorts of reliability issues....hence Gucci shit. Also, extremely light and not easy to shoot accurately. There are mlok adapters for the Brigand Arms handguard. Gucci or not, I like it for what it is. It is not the one I grab in the middle of the night. I have a Wilson Combat that I do. That Radian is untested but it is very likely to become the one I grab in the middle of the night. It has a 14.5" barrel but I pinned and welded a TBAC brake on to avoid the SBR bullshit.
Comes to saving your family , fuck the law plain and simple doesn't even register in the brain. I can deal with 3 hots and a cot for all of eternity.
 
It would definitely have all sorts of reliability issues....hence Gucci shit. Also, extremely light and not easy to shoot accurately. There are mlok adapters for the Brigand Arms handguard. Gucci or not, I like it for what it is. It is not the one I grab in the middle of the night. I have a Wilson Combat that I do. That Radian is untested but it is very likely to become the one I grab in the middle of the night. It has a 14.5" barrel but I pinned and welded a TBAC brake on to avoid the SBR bullshit.

The pinned and welded Radian sounds like a good idea, I'm going back and forth between the TBAC Ultra 9 and Dominus 30-cal cans, so I might use a TBAC brake too. I wish my Radian builder kit came with a 13-inch hand guard so that I can go even shorter than 16-inch barrel.

I wish to do one of my AR's as a complete gucci build but only after I build out my 4 main rifles otherwise I'd run out of money before finishing my goal. And it won't be completely gucci if I'm using aero lowers haha. But I do plan on doing gucci glock builds using killer innovations parts and a gucci EPC9 build using Maxim stock and SLR handguard. Kind of like this:


To finalize Summer 2021 (2).png