Gonna start the paperwork to suppress a .22 lr toggle action. I know 0 about this subject. Didn't see what I wanted in the suppressed section. Should I get it for .223 so I can run it on AR and 22's or are the interior volumes very specific? Or does the can go with the serial numbered receiver? Where should I read up?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
What suppressor for a .22??
- Thread starter 660grizzlyguy
- Start date
I'm kinda new to the NFA game myself but here are my suggestions based on my research:
1- If you want absolute suppression, get a dedicated 22lr suppressor. Due to the increased internal volume of a 223 can, it will take more rounds to fill it with gas. For 22lr cans this is known as "first round pop". Some do better than others, but if comparing a 22lr to 223, a 223 will take 2/3 rounds before it "settles in" and gets real quiet.
2- The suppressor will have it's own serial number (separate from the rifle) which is what you'll have to register with the ATF through a Form 4.
3- Read up everywhere. Google is your best friend! Unless you have a local class III with demo days, you'll probably have to buy on faith/reviews. Or try to link up with members here to see/hear their cans.
Like said the caliber specific cans are the quietest in my opinion. A good place to look for answers would be silencertalk.com, they are kind of harsh at times, but I have learned very much from that website!
On a side not the .22 suppressor that I have heard personally was an Xcaliber Genesis can. I was extremely impressed! It was on a P22 and very quiet!
Ben
On a side not the .22 suppressor that I have heard personally was an Xcaliber Genesis can. I was extremely impressed! It was on a P22 and very quiet!
Ben
I got a thunderbeast 22L-1, it is titanium sealed quality can, like all thunderbeast products.
If it gets dirty and loses sound suppression, you can send it to them and they will clean it for free, you can't beat that. From what I understand it will be thousands of rounds before it needs to be cleaned.
Don't buy a cheap can, hate it , then wait another year to get a better can. Basically a cheap rimfire can and a thunderbeast are probably $100 difference.
Buy once, cry once.
Good luck with your purchase.
If it gets dirty and loses sound suppression, you can send it to them and they will clean it for free, you can't beat that. From what I understand it will be thousands of rounds before it needs to be cleaned.
Don't buy a cheap can, hate it , then wait another year to get a better can. Basically a cheap rimfire can and a thunderbeast are probably $100 difference.
Buy once, cry once.
Good luck with your purchase.
User serviceable cans are easy to maintain. Eliminates being without as you don't have to send it off. Most durable would be a stainless can. Not that much more weight then aluminum but will hold up better over the longer run.
"The dip" is a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT USE on aluminum or steel, just stainless steel or titanium. The dip dissolves aluminum and carbon steels.
Use Caution:
The used dip fluid and debris from the cleaning process is considered a hazardous material, since it creates lead acetate. Lead acetate can be absorbed through the skin and is known to cause reproductive harm in people. Always use waterproof gloves. While using the "dip" make sure it is in a well ventilated area and not sealed up in a closed container. Do not let the material find it's way into the ground water system (sewer, landfill)
I use Dawn dishwashing soap and stainless steel pins in a Thumbler Tumbler to clean.
Baffles after a few hundred rounds.
After being run thru the tumbler for a couple of hours
"The dip" is a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT USE on aluminum or steel, just stainless steel or titanium. The dip dissolves aluminum and carbon steels.
Use Caution:
The used dip fluid and debris from the cleaning process is considered a hazardous material, since it creates lead acetate. Lead acetate can be absorbed through the skin and is known to cause reproductive harm in people. Always use waterproof gloves. While using the "dip" make sure it is in a well ventilated area and not sealed up in a closed container. Do not let the material find it's way into the ground water system (sewer, landfill)
I use Dawn dishwashing soap and stainless steel pins in a Thumbler Tumbler to clean.
Baffles after a few hundred rounds.
After being run thru the tumbler for a couple of hours
My Spectre 2 says clean every 1000 rounds. This can is nice as it is rated for 22wmr and 17 hmr as well as 5.7x28. I like the versatility of this can.
Buy Once, Cry Once:
Silencerco Sparrow
1. User Servicable
2. Stainless steel baffle core
3. Exterioir tube/shell is the only NFA registered piece, all others can be replaced as needed.
4. Rated for .22LR, .22WMR, .17HMR, 5.7x28 FN
I recieved my Sparrow and tax stamp in early September and so far have ~1.5k rounds through it without cleaning. As the can has gotten dirtier the FRP has noticeably dropped. I will likely have to clean after my next range session. My second choice would be the SWR Spectra II.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-suppressors/212158-swr-spectre-ii-update.html
I also have a TBAS 30P-1 and REALLY like their products, but I would not own a sealed rimfire can, ever.
Silencerco Sparrow
1. User Servicable
2. Stainless steel baffle core
3. Exterioir tube/shell is the only NFA registered piece, all others can be replaced as needed.
4. Rated for .22LR, .22WMR, .17HMR, 5.7x28 FN
I recieved my Sparrow and tax stamp in early September and so far have ~1.5k rounds through it without cleaning. As the can has gotten dirtier the FRP has noticeably dropped. I will likely have to clean after my next range session. My second choice would be the SWR Spectra II.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-suppressors/212158-swr-spectre-ii-update.html
I also have a TBAS 30P-1 and REALLY like their products, but I would not own a sealed rimfire can, ever.
i have heard many cans shot, in my quest for one
thanks to tom, i have put my money on a sparrow II,SS
with a 22lr one of the best cans i have listen too,
frp with 22mag (was what i wanted one for) a little louder then what i expected,
but after all the great guys here on the hide,giving me feed back, 22mag has to much down range crack anyway, forany can, even a 556 can.
thanks tom now for the long!!!!!!!!!! wait for stamp, an it will be all mine LOL
Let us know how long it takes to get the can in hand.
Word on the street is the wait is around 15 months or so, and only getting worse.
Word on the street is the wait is around 15 months or so, and only getting worse.
OH SNAP!!! well i guess i got 14 more months,
shit this can drive a man crazy or in my case, crazyer
Get a dedicated 22 suppressor, not a 223. The Sparrow or the Spectre II seem good. I have a Gemtech Outback II-D, and I like it alot, but the Sparrow and/or Spectre II seem easier to disassemble after firing more rounds. The lead build-up is not much of a factor when removing the baffles from those tubes for cleaning. Of course, if you clean your rimfire suppressor regularly, then it isn't an issue.
In addition to the resources listed above, try the forum at: nfatalk.org
and the BATFE's website:
Firearms - Frequently Asked Questions - National Firearms Act (NFA) - Firearms | ATF
Even AAC's "CanU-Silencer University" is an informative free tutorial:
CanU - Silencer University
Think about getting a trust or LLC for the purchase, vs buying it in just your name. Many pros and cons to each method, but many folks like a trust. There is a proposed change at the BATFE right now. You can read more about that here:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ct-batf-comment-about-proposed-rules-nfa.html
Welcome to the addiction and what is most likely your "First" of many suppressors...
Although you may be factually correct on what parts comprise a silencer, you are contextually incorrect as to the intent of my statement. With the Silencerco Sparrow design I am referring to specifically. I can legally replace the end caps, clam shells, and baffle stack due to wear or damage without having to submit additional FORM 4's or pay any additional tax stamp. If I do somehow damage the exterior sleeve (which is the ONLY serialized component) then I will need to submit a new Form 4 with payment of tax stamp for the replacement serialized piece, and endure the wait period for processing again. As to the other parts I'm of course going to need to return the worn or damaged pieces to Silencerco before they will replace them; as having extra unregistered silencer parts or bits and pieces that could be turned into a silencer would be considered illegal. Ass you so clearly pointed out.
You don't fill out another form 4 to have a NFA item repaired. It is a form 5 and no tax is do to send it in for repair or have it returned to you.
You send back the complete suppressor for repair. That way you know the baffle stack will fit your tube.
You send back the complete suppressor for repair. That way you know the baffle stack will fit your tube.
+1 for Huntertown and Sparrow, no other experiences for 22's except Rugers with integrated cans.
Best I've seen have been non commercial - about 1 1/8" diameter and 4 1/2 to 5" long. Simple tube with threading extension on bottom and inside perforated passage with washers, kept in place with screwtop on forend. Looked to be machined from bar stock. Very effective, increased accuracy (saw it with and without on a CZ452 that shot sub 1/2 MOA) and could be cleaned easily with simple equipment such as cleaning jag, patches and a toothbrush.
Wouldn't want to think about the legal ramifications of owning an unregistered/illegal silencer/suppressor, though.
- boingk
Wouldn't want to think about the legal ramifications of owning an unregistered/illegal silencer/suppressor, though.
- boingk
Filling out a Form 5 is not required for repair. I bought two Templar Tactical suppressors as part of the group buy and had to send them back because of burrs on the bore (they paid for everything and turn around was less than a week). This was my first foray into NFA items so I called the ATF on what paperwork needed to happen as my Form 4 was/is still pending. He said while a Form 5 is recommended for their (ATF) records, it's not required. The only requirement is that if it is at the manufacturer's shop for more than 7 days it must be recorded in their "bound book".
I understand it's just a guy from the internet telling you this, but hey, call for yourself! They were surprisingly nice AND helpful!
Which one, how old is it, & why, specifically, do you love it?
(there aren't too many reviews of their stuff around here)
Thanks!
+1 on the Sparrow. I shot quite a few before purchasing and I decided on this one. A dedicated can for the 22 lr is the only way to go. You will get a lot of trash from 22 and you will want to clean it out. Most center fire cans are sealed and they don't produce near the same amount of build up on the baffle so there is no need for the same type of maintenance.
The sparrow is awesome in that you can shoot .22 lr/.22 wmr /5.7x28mm/17 HMR through it. It has a clam shell over the baffle which allows you to remove the baffle from the tube with ease. On other cans which come apart, they can get stuck and be a bear to take down to clean.
I love Thunder Beast and have a 30 BA can for a few rifles however there is no way I would go with a sealed can for 22 lr. SWR and SilencerCo are one in the same and you can go wrong with either. My recommendation is the Sparrow.
The sparrow is awesome in that you can shoot .22 lr/.22 wmr /5.7x28mm/17 HMR through it. It has a clam shell over the baffle which allows you to remove the baffle from the tube with ease. On other cans which come apart, they can get stuck and be a bear to take down to clean.
I love Thunder Beast and have a 30 BA can for a few rifles however there is no way I would go with a sealed can for 22 lr. SWR and SilencerCo are one in the same and you can go wrong with either. My recommendation is the Sparrow.
User serviceable cans are easy to maintain. Eliminates being without as you don't have to send it off. Most durable would be a stainless can. Not that much more weight then aluminum but will hold up better over the longer run.
"The dip" is a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT USE on aluminum or steel, just stainless steel or titanium. The dip dissolves aluminum and carbon steels.
Use Caution:
The used dip fluid and debris from the cleaning process is considered a hazardous material, since it creates lead acetate. Lead acetate can be absorbed through the skin and is known to cause reproductive harm in people. Always use waterproof gloves. While using the "dip" make sure it is in a well ventilated area and not sealed up in a closed container. Do not let the material find it's way into the ground water system (sewer, landfill)
I use Dawn dishwashing soap and stainless steel pins in a Thumbler Tumbler to clean.
Baffles after a few hundred rounds.
After being run thru the tumbler for a couple of hours
Very pretty. Quick question, do you do the body and end cap also? Just did my Spectre baffles last weekend in the tumbler and was curious if I could do the rest of it without removing the finish.
