-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
What the hell is causing these marks on the neck?
- Thread starter nexusfire
- Start date
Need more information. Are the marks from the die (after processing, but before shooting) or from the rifle ( before processing)? Plus, your pictures are for two different calibers with different shoulders. Is this happening on more than one cartridge? Plus the pictures are not really sharp to me on my phone, so hard to find details that might be telling.
A description of what is occurring and when, in your process, would be helpful.
A description of what is occurring and when, in your process, would be helpful.
Two different cartridges?
Have you taken your sizing die apart and cleaned it really well? Is your brass cleaned before sizing or after? After trimming or ID/OD chamfer?
You know, if you really want help, you need to be part of the solution by providing information. That is unless you are just playing 50 questions/guesses in which case I'm out.
Have you taken your sizing die apart and cleaned it really well? Is your brass cleaned before sizing or after? After trimming or ID/OD chamfer?
You know, if you really want help, you need to be part of the solution by providing information. That is unless you are just playing 50 questions/guesses in which case I'm out.
That's to be expected with sizing, but less so with TiN coated bushings for sure. I see that very apparent on my 300 BLK brass after sizing (non bushing of course). The only advice I can give is
1. remove the bushing and clean it with a q tip and solvent
2. make sure you have enough lube on the neck
Other than that, it is a cosmetic flaw, and I am unaware of any performance issues arising. The marks disappear for me after tumbling
1. remove the bushing and clean it with a q tip and solvent
2. make sure you have enough lube on the neck
Other than that, it is a cosmetic flaw, and I am unaware of any performance issues arising. The marks disappear for me after tumbling
Lol thank you for blessing us with your presence.
Yes it is two different cartridges. I have cleaned the die and bushing with brake cleaner and I have also tried buffing the bushing with a bore mop and jb paste.
I am using hornady one shot for lube but it also does it with sizing wax. It doesn't affect anything it's just annoying.
Youre using the same sizing die for two different cartridges? I agree with lash, you really need to spell this out better because no one here has any idea what youre actually doing at this point.
But if youve polished it and are using adequate lube avoiding galling Im not sure what it could be.
Top one looks like new brass that wasn't deburred, Polish the bushing, a flashlight will tell you if it is scratch free, then deburr your case mouth, it's just grit from dirty mouths getting worked down.
I agree. Make sure the bushing is clean and that there is lube on the neck so that the brass moves smoothly in and out of the die.
The ring around the bullet indicates either your adding to much crimp too early, or you have way too much neck tension. The later could also be causing some of the gauling it looks like you're getting. Measure you're loaded neck, even on that mangled one, and subtract .002-.003" from that. That is the bushing you want.
I own a shit ton of Redding bushings, and many of them will do that. I hone the standard steel ones myself to clean up the shitty chamfers(which is what’s causing that). The Tin coated ones do it far more than the standard steel in my experience. Wilson bushings, in my experience, have a nicer internal finish, and will solve that problem. Regardless of bushing make, if they pick up brass particles on them, like if you don’t clean the case well enough after trimming and chamfering, the brass on brass galling will contribute to that.
Maybe I missed it but if it’s a Tin coated bushing, polishing it will remove any brass that may have adhered to it, but it won’t change the bushing at all. The coating is too hard.
Maybe I missed it but if it’s a Tin coated bushing, polishing it will remove any brass that may have adhered to it, but it won’t change the bushing at all. The coating is too hard.
Last edited:
The .223 case is completely processed and cleaned. I only annealed it on an AMP annealed. The 6 dasher is also cleaned, but tumbled in rice. The .223 seems to have more marks on it but the dasher has more prevalent ones. It may be a matter of not enough lube after hearing this.
If the bushings are absolutely clean and more lube does not fix the problem, drop the setting on the AMP by 02 as over annealed brass is a cause of galling. The AMP settings were created using the lot numbers that they post, but they do not account for differences in weight within the lot, or after the brass has changed in volume from stretching. They literally test with whatever was sent to them, regardless of new or many reloads. I have been sacrificing brass after 3-4 firings to the Aztec mode for verification. Some are dead on, some to hot, some not hot enough.
Your bushing has been scored (I had this happen using graphite neck lube). Flipping the bushing over may help, but IME, once it (the bushing) is scored, it will continue to leave that mark on the neck of all your casings.
I've xp'd the same thing before with one of my redding bushings, tin as well. Not sure how much brass you have run thru yours but I started seeing mine after some hefty use. I have found it to be purely cosmetic for the most part and just went with it as end results were not affected. Eventually I got tired of looking at it and replaced that particular bushing and all was well again aesthetically speaking.
Put some Flitz or Brasso on a felt polishing tip and with a dremel (or high speed drill) polish the inside of your bushing. I had one that just happened to fit through the bushing ID with just a bit of resistance.
It will not remove any of the hardened steel, but will remove any brass or carbon on the inside of the bushing. Don't go crazy, but 6-8 good passes.
Did it last night on my bushing. Dremel on speed 6-7 (out of ten) about 6-8 passes with Flitz...nice shinny mirror finish again. Brass went from looking like yours to no scratches in about 1 minute.
PS. Based on the first picture, I would be sizing down the neck a bit farther....
ZY
It will not remove any of the hardened steel, but will remove any brass or carbon on the inside of the bushing. Don't go crazy, but 6-8 good passes.
Did it last night on my bushing. Dremel on speed 6-7 (out of ten) about 6-8 passes with Flitz...nice shinny mirror finish again. Brass went from looking like yours to no scratches in about 1 minute.
PS. Based on the first picture, I would be sizing down the neck a bit farther....
ZY
Last edited:
make sure you dont have a piece of corncob media in your shell holder or any other gunk that would cause your casing to be off center. A bur on the case rim can also cause this.
Throw the one shot lube and steel bushing in a bag and give it to the guys you are shooting against.
Use the imperial sizing die wax and the titanium coated bushing and your problem won't be a problem.
What I see is guys lubing every other case or every third case or no lube at all having this issue.
Use the imperial sizing die wax and the titanium coated bushing and your problem won't be a problem.
What I see is guys lubing every other case or every third case or no lube at all having this issue.
Nothing wrong with my reading skills or how well my 6 Dashers shoot in big matches and nationals.
Had you read the various replies you would see posters recommending steel bushings.
Like I said had you read the posts.
I sent a sizing die to Forster for this exact problem.
Here's what they said, "Die has been repolished to remove the brass build-ups that were causing these scratches. To prevent this in the future, be sure to chamfer and deburr especially new brass...."
Here's what they said, "Die has been repolished to remove the brass build-ups that were causing these scratches. To prevent this in the future, be sure to chamfer and deburr especially new brass...."
