Gunsmithing What's needed to swap barrels at home?

[Danattherock]

I have a Curtis action and want to change barrels in varying calibers at home. Curious what tools you guys might suggest.

I'm shooting PRS and wanting to train with 308, 6.5x47 for club matches, and Dasher for national matches.

If I follow, I need action wrench from Curtis, barrel vise, and torque wrench? I have Kobalt 100+ ft/lb torque wrench (~2 ft long). Thanks for any suggestions you may offer.

 

[crunchy]

I just went through this and decided it wasn't worth buying the tools to do this at home. Maybe call some friends to see if someone has what you need. Or find a smith close by that can do it on the spot for minimal fee. Invest in the tools if it is something you might do semi frequent?

 

[Danattherock]

Thanks, changing frequently is the plan, few times a month. Want good stuff, just too green to know what that is. Lol.

 

[crunchy]

Then I you are correct to find the correct tools to do the job yourself. Set you back a few hundie but good investment in the long run.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

If I follow, I need action wrench from Curtis, barrel vise, and torque wrench? I have Kobalt 100+ ft/lb torque wrench (~2 ft long). Thanks for any suggestions you may offer.

Assuming you're swapping shouldered barrels, the above should do the trick.

 

[dgheriani]

I do the same thing you plan on. Swap frequently between .223, .308 and 6mm Creedmoor barrels. I use a Viper vise, the correct action wrench for the action I'm using and a torque wrench. I also put witness marks on the barrels and receiver. It's an easy job, takes about 10 minutes. I can do it at the range as well.

 

[Threadcutter308]

I do the same thing you plan on. Swap frequently between .223, .308 and 6mm Creedmoor barrels. I use a Viper vise, the correct action wrench for the action I'm using and a torque wrench. I also put witness marks on the barrels and receiver. It's an easy job, takes about 10 minutes. I can do it at the range as well.

Get yourself some copper based anti-seize compound and use it (sparingly......it doesn't have to be put on thick). This is espicially true if your action and barrel are both stainless. If they are and you don't use anti-seize, the threads can gall when either assembling or dis-assembling and everything locks up. Then, the solution (unless someone smarter than me (not much of a challenge) has a better idea) is to cut the barrel off at the trunion, put the action in a lathe and cut the trunion out of the action. Time consuming and expensive.

 

[Danattherock]

Thanks guys. Which barrel vise would you suggest? Changing barrels in garage, not at range. Any particular brand anti seize? Online source? Thanks, and appreciate your patience.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Thanks guys. Which barrel vise would you suggest? Changing barrels in garage, not at range. Any particular brand anti seize? Online source? Thanks, and appreciate your patience.

Here's my suggestion for a barrel vise;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BARREL-VISE-W-5-INSERTS-GUNSMITH-FACTORY-SECOND-/370228555216.

I use NAPA automotive, copper based anti-seize. Nothing special, works fine.

My opinion isn't popular, as I don't care for the Vipers. I wore one out and went with the one above. The one above is rough. You will need to deburr it and clean it up a little. However, it's a brick shithouse that even a Marine couldn't fuck up.

 

[dgheriani]

Here's my suggestion for a barrel vise;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BARREL-VISE-W-5-INSERTS-GUNSMITH-FACTORY-SECOND-/370228555216.

View attachment 6996209

I use NAPA automotive, copper based anti-seize. Nothing special, works fine.

My opinion isn't populra, as I don't care for the Vipers. I wore one out and went with the one above. The one above is rough. You will need to deburr it and clean it up a little. However, it's a brick shithouse that even a Marine couldn't fuck up.

How did you wear out the Viper? I've used mine for about a year and swapped barrels around a ton and zero issues but I'll grant that's short term. I have heard it's not the vise to remove factory barrels though.

 

[XLR308]

Your going to want a torque wrench that is roughly double on the top end of what your ultimate torque value will be if you only plan on running with about 50 ft lbs the one you have would be good.
You will also need a good breaker bar for removing barrels as you never want to use a torque wrench for breaking connection if you didn't allready know that.
I torque the barrel on my Atlas to 98ft lbs and use a Viper vise with nothing on the barrel or vise. No slippage and no marks on a bare SS barrel.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Your going to want a torque wrench that is roughly double on the top end of what your ultimate torque value will be if you only plan on running with about 50 ft lbs the one you have would be good.
You will also need a good breaker bar for removing barrels as you never want to use a torque wrench for breaking connection if you didn't allready know that.
I torque the barrel on my Atlas to 98ft lbs and use a Viper vise with nothing on the barrel or vise. No slippage and no marks on a bare SS barrel.

+1 on the breaker bar......Dont destroy your torque wrench via misuse/abuse. Always back the torque adjustment off to zero when you’re done and putting it into storage.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

I bought this barrel vise and it's tougher than nails. I also use rosin on the leather to help grip, but I'm not positive that it is necessary.

https://mechforce-usa.com/mechforce-professional-grade-heavy-duty-barrel-vise/

 

[Danattherock]

Thanks for the insights guys I really appreciate it. I heard back from Curtis this morning to verify their action wrench is in stock. Glad to see so many options for Barrel vise, including the Viper for $58 at OTM Tactical.

I'm only having barrels slightly past hand tight, or 15-30 ft lbs, depends on gunsmith suggestion. It's a switch barrel action, Vector, but I'm not using it in the intended screw on/off completely by hand method. So any of the suggestions here are more than adequate for my application I suspect.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

Your going to want a torque wrench that is roughly double on the top end of what your ultimate torque value will be if you only plan on running with about 50 ft lbs the one you have would be good.
You will also need a good breaker bar for removing barrels as you never want to use a torque wrench for breaking connection if you didn't allready know that.
I torque the barrel on my Atlas to 98ft lbs and use a Viper vise with nothing on the barrel or vise. No slippage and no marks on a bare SS barrel.

^^^ Great advice.