I just ordered the RCBS Chargemaster 1500, will i be able to load match grade ammo with it. I also use the Rock chucker press. any tips are welcomed
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Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Something I learned here, leave the scale on all the time. This allows it to be more reliable and consistent. And yes, you should be able to load match grade ammo with both of those.
Something I learned here, leave the scale on all the time. This allows it to be more reliable and consistent. And yes, you should be able to load match grade ammo with both of those.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=753593
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1063428
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=753593
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1063428
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Take Chad's advice and read....it sounds like you have and are gathering the right equipment.
Take Chad's advice and read....it sounds like you have and are gathering the right equipment.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
#1 key to accurate match loads, zip lock bags.
Get ready to sort. You're gonna sort brass by weight, times fired, different brands ect, also you're gonna sort bullets by weight.
I love the ziplock freezer bags as they are the strongest and have a space to write on.
#1 key to accurate match loads, zip lock bags.
Get ready to sort. You're gonna sort brass by weight, times fired, different brands ect, also you're gonna sort bullets by weight.
I love the ziplock freezer bags as they are the strongest and have a space to write on.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
True match grade ammo, as in Bench Rest quality, its a lot of work!
Assume you start with brand new brass
Run through neck expander
Neck turn
Deburr/uniform flash hole
Uniform primer pocket
Chamfor/ream the mouth
Neck size
Weight sort brass
Measure every bullet from base to ogive and sort
Weight sort bullets
Weight every powder drop
Did I miss anything?
True match grade ammo, as in Bench Rest quality, its a lot of work!
Assume you start with brand new brass
Run through neck expander
Neck turn
Deburr/uniform flash hole
Uniform primer pocket
Chamfor/ream the mouth
Neck size
Weight sort brass
Measure every bullet from base to ogive and sort
Weight sort bullets
Weight every powder drop
Did I miss anything?
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Your ChargeMaster can be relied upon to produce repeatable charges. Check it out. If there are inconsistencies, its operation can be tuned (programmed) for refinement. If it's brand new, the latest version is pretty good.
To answer your headline, Glen Zediker's <span style="text-decoration: underline">Handloading for Competition</span> will tell you everything about making great ammo. Eliminating run-out is a good start.
Your ChargeMaster can be relied upon to produce repeatable charges. Check it out. If there are inconsistencies, its operation can be tuned (programmed) for refinement. If it's brand new, the latest version is pretty good.
To answer your headline, Glen Zediker's <span style="text-decoration: underline">Handloading for Competition</span> will tell you everything about making great ammo. Eliminating run-out is a good start.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
another good read is http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html
another good read is http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Are you just starting to learn to reload?
If so, than just start with learning the basics.
Neck size? try full length and neck sizing and see what works for you. Eventually you will need to Full length size them any way.
Should you sort brass, yeah, by headstamp, worry about case wieght later...if ever. Same with bullets. Tried it, Unless you have a bench rest quality rifle I doubt you will see a marked improvement. Better to spend time shooting or maybe dry firing than wieghing and sorting components. IMO
Neck turn, later...if ever. Never tried it, thought about it, priced equipment, decided to wait until I get a 6mm PPC with a tight necked chamber and take up serious benchrest shooting when I retire in about 25 to 30 years, when I'm in my 60's.
Trim, yes! everytime. At least I do.
Chamfer case mouth, yes. Everytime you trim.
Uniform primer pocket, up to you. I like to, and do, there is a debate as to wether or not it is worth doing. I like clean primer pockets, I can tell at a glance that brass has been preped and ready to load. Sinclair tool in a drill is the shit for doing these. No adjustment needed, just buy one for Large rifle, another for large pistol(Same diameter,different depths) and another for small rifle/pistol (depth and diameter are the same.)
Deburr flash hole? Sure, can't hurt.
Wiegh every powder drop? Yes. I do with a single stage press, your Chargemaster should be faster than my method of throwing and trickling to wieght. If loading bulk ammo on a progressive (Dillon) I use ball powder and check the charge wieght every so often. You still get really accurate ammo by just dropping charges, serveral Prarie dogs from South Dakota are no longer available to comment on this.
Is USMCj wrong? No, it must work for him. You have to decide what works for you. I am just sharing what works for me.
Good Luck
Are you just starting to learn to reload?
If so, than just start with learning the basics.
Neck size? try full length and neck sizing and see what works for you. Eventually you will need to Full length size them any way.
Should you sort brass, yeah, by headstamp, worry about case wieght later...if ever. Same with bullets. Tried it, Unless you have a bench rest quality rifle I doubt you will see a marked improvement. Better to spend time shooting or maybe dry firing than wieghing and sorting components. IMO
Neck turn, later...if ever. Never tried it, thought about it, priced equipment, decided to wait until I get a 6mm PPC with a tight necked chamber and take up serious benchrest shooting when I retire in about 25 to 30 years, when I'm in my 60's.
Trim, yes! everytime. At least I do.
Chamfer case mouth, yes. Everytime you trim.
Uniform primer pocket, up to you. I like to, and do, there is a debate as to wether or not it is worth doing. I like clean primer pockets, I can tell at a glance that brass has been preped and ready to load. Sinclair tool in a drill is the shit for doing these. No adjustment needed, just buy one for Large rifle, another for large pistol(Same diameter,different depths) and another for small rifle/pistol (depth and diameter are the same.)
Deburr flash hole? Sure, can't hurt.
Wiegh every powder drop? Yes. I do with a single stage press, your Chargemaster should be faster than my method of throwing and trickling to wieght. If loading bulk ammo on a progressive (Dillon) I use ball powder and check the charge wieght every so often. You still get really accurate ammo by just dropping charges, serveral Prarie dogs from South Dakota are no longer available to comment on this.
Is USMCj wrong? No, it must work for him. You have to decide what works for you. I am just sharing what works for me.
Good Luck
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Good equipment is nice but............loading ammunition that will actually win or place in a competition/match is another story. I shoot IBS 600/1000 yard benchrest and win a match every now and then. I work hours on brass make my own bullets and spend a lot of time testing. I also shoot NRA Long Range mostly with my Palma rifle and basically have shot the same load in the last five barrels. I am lucky enough to have a great range that host a Monday evening 1000 yard league 40 minutes from the house. If I'm in a hurry I can throw my powder charges for my Palma rifle and still shoot a clean...... Would I do this in a match? No way. But for league keeping your group centered with "ok" ammunition can be an interesting exercise. Get involved in some sort of organized competition and you'll figure it out. Sierra sells a great book with lots of good information...............
Good equipment is nice but............loading ammunition that will actually win or place in a competition/match is another story. I shoot IBS 600/1000 yard benchrest and win a match every now and then. I work hours on brass make my own bullets and spend a lot of time testing. I also shoot NRA Long Range mostly with my Palma rifle and basically have shot the same load in the last five barrels. I am lucky enough to have a great range that host a Monday evening 1000 yard league 40 minutes from the house. If I'm in a hurry I can throw my powder charges for my Palma rifle and still shoot a clean...... Would I do this in a match? No way. But for league keeping your group centered with "ok" ammunition can be an interesting exercise. Get involved in some sort of organized competition and you'll figure it out. Sierra sells a great book with lots of good information...............
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
I only listed what is needed to produce true match/br grade ammo. Weather its right or wrong is up you.
Sure you can skip any one of those things, but you will always wonder, what if.......
Having said that, I have never neck turned, or weight sorted anything, just uniformed primer pockets/flash hole, trimmed and loaded. Its worked out to groups of .3" at 100 yards.
I just got a fresh batch of Lapua brass and did all of the things I listed up top to see how much difference its going to make in my groups. If the difference is noticable, Ill keep at it. If its not, then I have a lot of tool to sell, LOL!
I only listed what is needed to produce true match/br grade ammo. Weather its right or wrong is up you.
Sure you can skip any one of those things, but you will always wonder, what if.......
Having said that, I have never neck turned, or weight sorted anything, just uniformed primer pockets/flash hole, trimmed and loaded. Its worked out to groups of .3" at 100 yards.
I just got a fresh batch of Lapua brass and did all of the things I listed up top to see how much difference its going to make in my groups. If the difference is noticable, Ill keep at it. If its not, then I have a lot of tool to sell, LOL!
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Don't hold out on the new guy . . . sacrificing a live chicken works wonders. If it's a major match sometimes I go up to a goat.
Read, and read . . . attention to detail, keep good notes, and lots of time.
I don't neck turn but I do:
1) Ream flash holes
2) Uniform primer pockets
3) Chamfer & debur (after trimming)
4) Sort brass & bullets
5) Chargemaster or equivalent
6) I know fire-formed brass works better but I full-length size because I want to make sure my rounds always chamber.
Tactical shooting for practical accuracy is my game.
Don't hold out on the new guy . . . sacrificing a live chicken works wonders. If it's a major match sometimes I go up to a goat.
Read, and read . . . attention to detail, keep good notes, and lots of time.
I don't neck turn but I do:
1) Ream flash holes
2) Uniform primer pockets
3) Chamfer & debur (after trimming)
4) Sort brass & bullets
5) Chargemaster or equivalent
6) I know fire-formed brass works better but I full-length size because I want to make sure my rounds always chamber.
Tactical shooting for practical accuracy is my game.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrt53</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's all about case prep. Also do not light a match as you reload please. </div></div>
Why not? how els will I light my cig while reloading?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrt53</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It's all about case prep. Also do not light a match as you reload please. </div></div>
Why not? how els will I light my cig while reloading?
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
The trick is Patience Patience Patience Patience and then more
Patience Patience Patience Patience
I have had a rifle that did not like the fiorst 5 loads that I fed it VERY FRUSTRATING then decided to try a load 308 with rl 15 and it shot it .24 at 100 every time
I will never sell the rifle GAP and only feed it theis one load .
Take you time make batches of 20 I shoot 5 rounds in each group so you get 4 tries also if its a good one stat to play with the oal.
Have Fun
Bill
The trick is Patience Patience Patience Patience and then more
Patience Patience Patience Patience
I have had a rifle that did not like the fiorst 5 loads that I fed it VERY FRUSTRATING then decided to try a load 308 with rl 15 and it shot it .24 at 100 every time
I will never sell the rifle GAP and only feed it theis one load .
Take you time make batches of 20 I shoot 5 rounds in each group so you get 4 tries also if its a good one stat to play with the oal.
Have Fun
Bill
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
Prepair the brass. I run the brass through the whole "match Prep" stuff every reload cycle. Primer uniformer, flash hold deburr, size, trim neck, tunble until absolutely clean (including inside the necks--overnight). Now all this extra work takes almost nothing off the already match preped brass, but it occasionally find a case that is not right. Finding it and culling it are part of match prep of ammo. Bad-Brass is a No-Go.
Prepair the reloader--be rested, undisturbed, and have several hours to devote exclusively to reloading. Its not rocket science, but you can harm yourself to the same degree as rocket science.
Measure twice, press once.
I like to run my cases through the case micrometer, then over the lube pad, then into the press, then back into the case micrometer. If it is not correctly sized, it goes back over the lube pad and back through the press until it IS correctly sized.
When throwing powder, it then goes into the sclae, trickled up, the sclae is bumped and has to return to the same point to get put into the case. I can hold 0.03 gr if I try hard--mostly I don't--but I can.
When seating bullets, I like to seat long (equivalent to 3.000{08}) and then reseat to the desired length (equivalent to 2.948). I can check concentricity in between and thereby ahve the opportunity to fix it (if possible) before final seating.
Place finished ammo in a storage device that prevents the bullets from getting knocked arround {Those FGMM carriers and the BH Match styrofoam holders are just perfect}. Do not damage the finished product between the reloading station and the final firing position.
And then listen to Fluffy.
Prepair the brass. I run the brass through the whole "match Prep" stuff every reload cycle. Primer uniformer, flash hold deburr, size, trim neck, tunble until absolutely clean (including inside the necks--overnight). Now all this extra work takes almost nothing off the already match preped brass, but it occasionally find a case that is not right. Finding it and culling it are part of match prep of ammo. Bad-Brass is a No-Go.
Prepair the reloader--be rested, undisturbed, and have several hours to devote exclusively to reloading. Its not rocket science, but you can harm yourself to the same degree as rocket science.
Measure twice, press once.
I like to run my cases through the case micrometer, then over the lube pad, then into the press, then back into the case micrometer. If it is not correctly sized, it goes back over the lube pad and back through the press until it IS correctly sized.
When throwing powder, it then goes into the sclae, trickled up, the sclae is bumped and has to return to the same point to get put into the case. I can hold 0.03 gr if I try hard--mostly I don't--but I can.
When seating bullets, I like to seat long (equivalent to 3.000{08}) and then reseat to the desired length (equivalent to 2.948). I can check concentricity in between and thereby ahve the opportunity to fix it (if possible) before final seating.
Place finished ammo in a storage device that prevents the bullets from getting knocked arround {Those FGMM carriers and the BH Match styrofoam holders are just perfect}. Do not damage the finished product between the reloading station and the final firing position.
And then listen to Fluffy.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
After about 20 years of handloading for economy and accuracy, I've done all the processes, tried all the tricks. I will tell you that many of the things you've been reading here have less benefit than others. In my case, I reached a series of tradeoffs, weighing the benefits vs the effort, and have reached a compromise where I sacrifice about 1/4MOA of accuracy in return for the time that gets freed up so I can spend more of that time at the range. After 20years down the pipe, I can tell you that reloading can sometimes be an unwelcome chore, which comes at a time that's least convenient.
I won't tell you which procedures you can and cannot forego, because my guns like a particular way, and your will like something different. What I <span style="font-style: italic">will</span> tell you is that you should never do a thing because tradition and popular wisdom says to. Rather, try omitting each technique, only one at a time, to see what its inclusion or exclusion buys you.
Where equipment is concerned, deluxe loading equipment is not absolutely necessary for creating good ammo; its value comes in the way it makes that task easier. My outfit consists of a Dillon RL550B press and standard RCBS two-die sets, with a few sets of Redding standard 2-die sets. I have no particular desire for anything more deluxe. I have one set of Hornady New Dimension dies; and I love the elliptical expander, but detest the collet decapping stem.
Eventually you will discover what does and doesn't have specific value in <span style="font-style: italic">your</span> reloading process.
Finally, whatever else you do, weighing each charge and reaming flash holes should never be omitted.
Greg
After about 20 years of handloading for economy and accuracy, I've done all the processes, tried all the tricks. I will tell you that many of the things you've been reading here have less benefit than others. In my case, I reached a series of tradeoffs, weighing the benefits vs the effort, and have reached a compromise where I sacrifice about 1/4MOA of accuracy in return for the time that gets freed up so I can spend more of that time at the range. After 20years down the pipe, I can tell you that reloading can sometimes be an unwelcome chore, which comes at a time that's least convenient.
I won't tell you which procedures you can and cannot forego, because my guns like a particular way, and your will like something different. What I <span style="font-style: italic">will</span> tell you is that you should never do a thing because tradition and popular wisdom says to. Rather, try omitting each technique, only one at a time, to see what its inclusion or exclusion buys you.
Where equipment is concerned, deluxe loading equipment is not absolutely necessary for creating good ammo; its value comes in the way it makes that task easier. My outfit consists of a Dillon RL550B press and standard RCBS two-die sets, with a few sets of Redding standard 2-die sets. I have no particular desire for anything more deluxe. I have one set of Hornady New Dimension dies; and I love the elliptical expander, but detest the collet decapping stem.
Eventually you will discover what does and doesn't have specific value in <span style="font-style: italic">your</span> reloading process.
Finally, whatever else you do, weighing each charge and reaming flash holes should never be omitted.
Greg
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
We've all been in the same boat in getting started. The key is to develop a routine with good habits. I've only been reloading a few years and can say that there are a few gadgets that have streamlined the process...
I have an RCBS Case Mic gauge for every caliber I shoot (with the exception of wildcat calibers). I measure virgin brass and set my FL die to barely contact the shoulder. Most virgin brass is under min, so you don't need to be bumping shoulders back right off the bat. I run all virgin brass through the FL sizer just to unform the necks BEFORE prepping on the RCBS Case Prep Station.
After resizing, 1X fired brass is trimmed to a uniform min. length and will most likely not need to be trimmed again. I don't trim virgin brass...
Regarding case prep, I find the RCBS Case Prep Station to be invaluable. I have my stations set up to:
chamfer
de-burr
primer pocket uniform
flashhole de-burr
primer pocket brush
Clockwise in that order. I do this circuit in the Case Prep with both new & fired brass religiously...
To set my FL die to resize FIRED brass, I measure shoulder with the Case Mic and set die to bump shoulder back ~.002" on my bolt gun brass and ~.005" on my AR brass. This helps prevent 'overworking' the brass and will help to extend case life...
For bullet seating, I use Redding Comp. Seater Dies and set it on an ogive measurement from the Case Mic gauge. I have a separate tool for measuring land engagement in my stick and set the seater accordingly. For AR ammo, c.o.a.l. is constrained to mag length, measured via calipers and correlated to an ogive meas. on the Case Mic...
I don't sort bullets by weight.
I do sort brass by stamp and # x fired.
I trim brass to uniform min. length only after it is 1X fired.
I don't measure runout.
I don't neck turn (exception for tight necked wildcats)
I store my brass in Ziploc freezer bags too and label with a Sharpie.
To prime brass, I like the 'feel' of a hand priming tool. If I didn't catch a loose primer pocket on the Case Prep staion, then I'll surely 'feel' it when seating a primer...
Once brass is prepped & primed, the Chargemaster gets fired up and zeroed. And the Comp Seater is set for my bullet choice. Chargemaster goes on AUTO...
Charge, dump, seat bullet and repeat until that batch is loaded...
We've all been in the same boat in getting started. The key is to develop a routine with good habits. I've only been reloading a few years and can say that there are a few gadgets that have streamlined the process...
I have an RCBS Case Mic gauge for every caliber I shoot (with the exception of wildcat calibers). I measure virgin brass and set my FL die to barely contact the shoulder. Most virgin brass is under min, so you don't need to be bumping shoulders back right off the bat. I run all virgin brass through the FL sizer just to unform the necks BEFORE prepping on the RCBS Case Prep Station.
After resizing, 1X fired brass is trimmed to a uniform min. length and will most likely not need to be trimmed again. I don't trim virgin brass...
Regarding case prep, I find the RCBS Case Prep Station to be invaluable. I have my stations set up to:
chamfer
de-burr
primer pocket uniform
flashhole de-burr
primer pocket brush
Clockwise in that order. I do this circuit in the Case Prep with both new & fired brass religiously...
To set my FL die to resize FIRED brass, I measure shoulder with the Case Mic and set die to bump shoulder back ~.002" on my bolt gun brass and ~.005" on my AR brass. This helps prevent 'overworking' the brass and will help to extend case life...
For bullet seating, I use Redding Comp. Seater Dies and set it on an ogive measurement from the Case Mic gauge. I have a separate tool for measuring land engagement in my stick and set the seater accordingly. For AR ammo, c.o.a.l. is constrained to mag length, measured via calipers and correlated to an ogive meas. on the Case Mic...
I don't sort bullets by weight.
I do sort brass by stamp and # x fired.
I trim brass to uniform min. length only after it is 1X fired.
I don't measure runout.
I don't neck turn (exception for tight necked wildcats)
I store my brass in Ziploc freezer bags too and label with a Sharpie.
To prime brass, I like the 'feel' of a hand priming tool. If I didn't catch a loose primer pocket on the Case Prep staion, then I'll surely 'feel' it when seating a primer...
Once brass is prepped & primed, the Chargemaster gets fired up and zeroed. And the Comp Seater is set for my bullet choice. Chargemaster goes on AUTO...
Charge, dump, seat bullet and repeat until that batch is loaded...
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
When using the Chargemaster, do not dump your charge when it beep/buzzes but wait until the weight comes up again. Sometimes the trickler may dump an avalanche of powder instead of just a kernal or 2. It beeps/buzzes to tell you it has finished throwing the charge once it has met or even exceeded the programmed charge.
You can load faster if you have a volumetric thrower and use it to throw the bulk of the charge. Then you can put it on the Chargemaster and push start and it will trickle to the desired charge.
When using the Chargemaster, do not dump your charge when it beep/buzzes but wait until the weight comes up again. Sometimes the trickler may dump an avalanche of powder instead of just a kernal or 2. It beeps/buzzes to tell you it has finished throwing the charge once it has met or even exceeded the programmed charge.
You can load faster if you have a volumetric thrower and use it to throw the bulk of the charge. Then you can put it on the Chargemaster and push start and it will trickle to the desired charge.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
I have some of the oldest and high mileage equipment on here I'd bet.
I have a late 60's era Rockchucker, ancient RCBS 5-10 beam balance and some of my dies are old enough that the markings were stamped by hand (they're crooked). Much of my stuff was free (press, balance, trickler, chamfer tool) and it still works just dandy.
I don't have any electronic gizmo's on any of my reloading unless you count the cordless drill I use during chamfering.
That being said my process for new brass is
Lightly lube necks
Size necks
Light deburr inside and outside of neck
Deburr flash hole
Prime
Fired brass in my bolt rifles gets treated the same as new brass except that I only size 75% of the neck so it acts as a pilot in the chamber neck.
Range pickups and gas gun brass gets treated to a Full Length resize each time.
Now I'm ready to load. I have a $20 volumetric Lee powder thrower that I will throw about 95% of the charge for ball powders and trickle in the remaining charge.
Believe it or not, I threw 22 charges like this in under 10 minutes, each was trickled, I screwed up 2 and had to throw them again. This netted me 20 trickled loads, including seated bullets in 10 mins.
The load was for a 204 Ruger, completely stock Savage and I shot some very tidy groups with it on saturday. The "bad" load was 0.65" @ 100y and the good load, including the flier from me screwing up behind the trigger was 0.42" Both groups from the "good" load were about 1/4" @ 100 if you took out the 1 flier where I flinched from the guy next to me firing a cannon just when I was on the trigger.
Care in setting your seating depth, charge consistency, and overall patience is the key. You don't need anything special to load super consistent ammo.
Work on your techniques to make sure you're being consistent, don't go spending money on the latest and greatest electronic stuff to do something that should be a basic manual skill first.
There's some very good information in the thread here, I've already said what I think might add to it. I also agree you should read a lot of reloading books, understand what is going through the process and also feel free to ask questions here. Even if you get a little ripped on don't take it to heart, it's part of the game. Most guys will bend over backwards to help you out.
BTW- I'm a young'un around here at 25, I just have made some good friends at the range and always try to listen to their stories, no matter how many times the old fart has told it to me. That's where my free loading equipment came from too.
I have some of the oldest and high mileage equipment on here I'd bet.
I have a late 60's era Rockchucker, ancient RCBS 5-10 beam balance and some of my dies are old enough that the markings were stamped by hand (they're crooked). Much of my stuff was free (press, balance, trickler, chamfer tool) and it still works just dandy.
I don't have any electronic gizmo's on any of my reloading unless you count the cordless drill I use during chamfering.
That being said my process for new brass is
Lightly lube necks
Size necks
Light deburr inside and outside of neck
Deburr flash hole
Prime
Fired brass in my bolt rifles gets treated the same as new brass except that I only size 75% of the neck so it acts as a pilot in the chamber neck.
Range pickups and gas gun brass gets treated to a Full Length resize each time.
Now I'm ready to load. I have a $20 volumetric Lee powder thrower that I will throw about 95% of the charge for ball powders and trickle in the remaining charge.
Believe it or not, I threw 22 charges like this in under 10 minutes, each was trickled, I screwed up 2 and had to throw them again. This netted me 20 trickled loads, including seated bullets in 10 mins.
The load was for a 204 Ruger, completely stock Savage and I shot some very tidy groups with it on saturday. The "bad" load was 0.65" @ 100y and the good load, including the flier from me screwing up behind the trigger was 0.42" Both groups from the "good" load were about 1/4" @ 100 if you took out the 1 flier where I flinched from the guy next to me firing a cannon just when I was on the trigger.
Care in setting your seating depth, charge consistency, and overall patience is the key. You don't need anything special to load super consistent ammo.
Work on your techniques to make sure you're being consistent, don't go spending money on the latest and greatest electronic stuff to do something that should be a basic manual skill first.
There's some very good information in the thread here, I've already said what I think might add to it. I also agree you should read a lot of reloading books, understand what is going through the process and also feel free to ask questions here. Even if you get a little ripped on don't take it to heart, it's part of the game. Most guys will bend over backwards to help you out.
BTW- I'm a young'un around here at 25, I just have made some good friends at the range and always try to listen to their stories, no matter how many times the old fart has told it to me. That's where my free loading equipment came from too.
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
I have just crafted two batches of ammo for my 700VLS .223. One uses match primers and individually weighed charges, and the other uses standard primers, and charges dropped in full progressive mode and only checked when the powder level looked abnormal. In all other respects, they are identical.
Greg
I have just crafted two batches of ammo for my 700VLS .223. One uses match primers and individually weighed charges, and the other uses standard primers, and charges dropped in full progressive mode and only checked when the powder level looked abnormal. In all other respects, they are identical.
Greg
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have just crafted two batches of ammo for my 700VLS .223. One uses match primers and individually weighed charges, and the other uses standard primers, and charges dropped in full progressive mode and only checked when the powder level looked abnormal. In all other respects, they are identical.
Greg </div></div>
Any brass prep? range report comparing the 2?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have just crafted two batches of ammo for my 700VLS .223. One uses match primers and individually weighed charges, and the other uses standard primers, and charges dropped in full progressive mode and only checked when the powder level looked abnormal. In all other respects, they are identical.
Greg </div></div>
Any brass prep? range report comparing the 2?
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
This is brass that's been reloaded 4-5 times. F/L resized, flash holes reamed, case length checked, that's about it. My chambers are all SAAMi spec, so many of the more extraordinary procedures are not especially relevent.
Range report? I had just finished making the stuff earlier the same day, gimme a break.
Ammo is for an Odessa FV match this coming Sunday, see STP's report of scores.
If things go as planned, I'm probably going to fire the course twice; once with each batch; 40 rounds for score plus sighters. I believe a load should be tested according to its intended useage, and not by some arcane ritual.
If things go as expected, there probably won't be a ton of difference in performance between the two batches. But I can't really predict such things in advance, that's why we test these things. The primers are CCI BR-4's and CCI 400's, and the powder charge just about fills the case to the top of the neck when it gets dropped, so monitoring charge levels is relatively easy.
Greg
This is brass that's been reloaded 4-5 times. F/L resized, flash holes reamed, case length checked, that's about it. My chambers are all SAAMi spec, so many of the more extraordinary procedures are not especially relevent.
Range report? I had just finished making the stuff earlier the same day, gimme a break.
Ammo is for an Odessa FV match this coming Sunday, see STP's report of scores.
If things go as planned, I'm probably going to fire the course twice; once with each batch; 40 rounds for score plus sighters. I believe a load should be tested according to its intended useage, and not by some arcane ritual.
If things go as expected, there probably won't be a ton of difference in performance between the two batches. But I can't really predict such things in advance, that's why we test these things. The primers are CCI BR-4's and CCI 400's, and the powder charge just about fills the case to the top of the neck when it gets dropped, so monitoring charge levels is relatively easy.
Greg
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sawhornsoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When using the Chargemaster, do not dump your charge when it beep/buzzes but wait until the weight comes up again. Sometimes the trickler may dump an avalanche of powder instead of just a kernal or 2. It beeps/buzzes to tell you it has finished throwing the charge once it has met or even exceeded the programmed charge.
You can load faster if you have a volumetric thrower and use it to throw the bulk of the charge. Then you can put it on the Chargemaster and push start and it will trickle to the desired charge.
</div></div>
True indeed. I noticed it when I got called away or distracted while throwing charges and came back to find the charge was nearly never low but sometimes high by .1-.2 grains when I came back to work.
Probably not a major problem, given the variability of everything else in my regimen; but if I just load the cases as thrown, I can't honestly say the powder charges are exactly the same can I?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sawhornsoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When using the Chargemaster, do not dump your charge when it beep/buzzes but wait until the weight comes up again. Sometimes the trickler may dump an avalanche of powder instead of just a kernal or 2. It beeps/buzzes to tell you it has finished throwing the charge once it has met or even exceeded the programmed charge.
You can load faster if you have a volumetric thrower and use it to throw the bulk of the charge. Then you can put it on the Chargemaster and push start and it will trickle to the desired charge.
</div></div>
True indeed. I noticed it when I got called away or distracted while throwing charges and came back to find the charge was nearly never low but sometimes high by .1-.2 grains when I came back to work.
Probably not a major problem, given the variability of everything else in my regimen; but if I just load the cases as thrown, I can't honestly say the powder charges are exactly the same can I?
Re: Whats the trick to loading Match Grade Ammo
My anticipated test was inconclusive. Wind and tall grass made efforts rudimentary. Basically, I wasted 175 rounds of perfectly good ammo. Won't be making that mistake again.
Greg
My anticipated test was inconclusive. Wind and tall grass made efforts rudimentary. Basically, I wasted 175 rounds of perfectly good ammo. Won't be making that mistake again.
Greg
