When youre wating for UPS
- Thread starter supercorndogs
- Start date
That sounds like the guy at Rainer arms that tightened it back on like it was lug nuts, and is the reason for the rounded out fastener, a broken extraction tool, and a ruined gas block.
In all your ahhemm, "gunsmithing" you ever try to drill an easy out?
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You've got that all wrong.
Everyone knows you're supposed to use a nickle.....and then it even matches colors.
Feng Shui and shit.
Trigger too?Pin that Thang.
Actually, I plan on using the Walker trigger. This one is from the early 90s and it ain't bad at all.
Got it all back together without breaking anything.
New recoil lug, barrel nut, 8tw Criterion 300 WindBag match bull contour and a new Lahar 30 to cover the end of the barrel.
Had to buy a step down adapter because the barrel has 3/4×28 threads. Silencer shop had it in stock and it also arrived today.
Gonna start with Berger 185s and 210s.
New recoil lug, barrel nut, 8tw Criterion 300 WindBag match bull contour and a new Lahar 30 to cover the end of the barrel.
Had to buy a step down adapter because the barrel has 3/4×28 threads. Silencer shop had it in stock and it also arrived today.
Gonna start with Berger 185s and 210s.
I REALLY like the 210 VLD. I use both the hunt and match version. They fly exactly the same.
And just look at THAT Feng Shui and shit!!! Stainless erywher.
I got the barrel fouled again and zeroed. I took it apart after the first 50 and moved from my test receiver to a BCM thermal fit. I am not sure how much I like them. It's a lot easier just to use green loctite retaining compound. I like to use both but I stuck the last one, had to drive it out clean it up and start over. This one stuck 3/4 of the way on test fitting and didn't want to back up and I I didn't want to keep heating it so I just tapped it home either a soft hammer.
The group with the higher POI is a diffrent bullet. 95 grain midway blemished. 70 rounds on this barrel now. Gas block.
In the mail.
The group with the higher POI is a diffrent bullet. 95 grain midway blemished. 70 rounds on this barrel now. Gas block.
In the mail.
I haven't shot my Creitrion winmag barrel much since I got a 280. I was thinking of putting it back on and shooting it some but then I start 5 other projects. Although this 6 arc barrel and the 20 practical barrel I just picked seem like they are going to make it easy. My long action is still in hunting configuration.
Mine really like the 200eld right about 3kfps with 4831sc. 208 a max over 7977 too. My factory barrel liked the 210 berger but I never shot them in the criterion.
I just got through looking at the images I borrowed from the Berger load manual. It appears, externally the VLD and the Hunter are made on the same dies. I suppose the only difference is jacket thickness.
I was only able to find 100 Of the 210s.
Also bought a box of 212 ELDX, just because.
A couple of months ago, I snagged 600 of the 185s for $30/bx. The guy threw in a full box of 175s with it.
Didn't hurt muh feelins, nun atoll.
This rifle started life as a 1st production run 700 Stainless mountain rifle in 7 Mag.
My dad bought it the day it hit the store. It was an absolute hammer with 140 Noslers and Sierra.
The barrel is real tired and the velocity just keeps dropping.
It would have remained a 7 Mag, but Northland only had 26" barrels in stock.
I wanted a 28-32" barrel.
Since I already had a bunch of 300 Win laying around, it was a no brainer to grab the 30" 8tw 300 With the .160 longer freebore.
The Whiskey-3 belongs to a buddy. I told him the plastic needs to be painted Stormtrooper white.
I wanted 30" but bought a 26 becased it was on the shelf. No regrats.
Mine started as a 700 police I bought on gun broker. It shot real well but had a funky paint job and bolt handle job.
Mine started as a 700 police I bought on gun broker. It shot real well but had a funky paint job and bolt handle job.
This one needs a bolt handle mod, but I'll probably leave it be.
Or, I could do a true BOLT handle mod like this.
Or, I could do a true BOLT handle mod like this.
I've also got one of those 700BDL SS first run things.
Only Remington I've ever owned that didn't have a rusty bolt handle.
Best upgrade.......Jewell trigger.
Can't believe you've put that much into it and have a Arken SH4 on it, blurriest scope I own (have one on a AR308).
Recently bought a Zeiss 4-16x44 conquest v4 and I am seriously floored by the clarity, it's the equal in every way of my Swarovski professional hunter that until now has been the best I have ever looked thru.......maybe I just got a lucky one? who knows.
BTW, TIG that bolt handle to the bolt, if you don't, it WILL come loose at the worst possible time.
Don't use any filler rod, just fusion weld it, works a treat......if I remember right, about 18VDC and 40 amps.....could be wrong there since it's been a few years since I did one.
Another thing, take a flashlight and look up inside bolt body, never seen one that didn't have *some* chips and shit in it.....and it's a place people rarely look for that.
Only Remington I've ever owned that didn't have a rusty bolt handle.
Best upgrade.......Jewell trigger.
Can't believe you've put that much into it and have a Arken SH4 on it, blurriest scope I own (have one on a AR308).
Recently bought a Zeiss 4-16x44 conquest v4 and I am seriously floored by the clarity, it's the equal in every way of my Swarovski professional hunter that until now has been the best I have ever looked thru.......maybe I just got a lucky one? who knows.
BTW, TIG that bolt handle to the bolt, if you don't, it WILL come loose at the worst possible time.
Don't use any filler rod, just fusion weld it, works a treat......if I remember right, about 18VDC and 40 amps.....could be wrong there since it's been a few years since I did one.
Another thing, take a flashlight and look up inside bolt body, never seen one that didn't have *some* chips and shit in it.....and it's a place people rarely look for that.
Best thing I ever did for remington bolt bodies was start running a 27/64 reamer into them. It really helps with bolt lift and pin drop to cut out anything dragging.
My UPS guy hates me.
He will knock on the door and tell me to bring a dolly out to his truck to stack the ammo on.
He will knock on the door and tell me to bring a dolly out to his truck to stack the ammo on.
That's the fancy bolt knob. You've got 12 point flange bolt money.This one needs a bolt handle mod, but I'll probably leave it be.
Or, I could do a true BOLT handle mod like this.
View attachment 8447848
That Arken has been on a bunch of different rifles. It tracks as well as any other scope I've seen or used.
Clarity? Meh, it ain't the best, but I have no issues spotting shots at a mile with it. I have better scopes, but the rifle will get tested with this optic.
The rifle will never be hunted with in its current configuration. No need for a hunting scope to sit on top.
The bolt body was cleaned out the day the rifle was brought home. It got a good cleaning and trigger adjustment at the same time.
The rifle with the previous barrel never had issues. It's just worn to the point where my 7-08 has almost caught up to it, velocity-wise.
The "bolt" handle on the Origin action was an inside joke for a couple of shooting buddies. It spent enough time on there to snap a quick photo, then it came off.
Meh, should have gone for a triple-square bolt head for maximum flex. Sure it doesn't have the tactile feedback and grip of the 12 point flange, but it's one of those "flexing on the poors vs function" things.
By the by, I'm something of a gunsmith myself, I build high-end custom rifles. Like this:
I thought it might be fun to start with a factory rifle and some bolt-ons, see what I can do with it and then upgrade it from there, or if I decide I need more, put together something on a custom action. The adjustable comb was an absolute must.
Now I'm waiting on an M-Brace to arrive, to hold the XTR IIIi.
What I was meaning is that the Remmy bolt handle is silver soldered to the bolt body from the factory and they tend to pull off at some point....needs a real welding job instead of solder.
Here's an older thread about it....
Gunsmithing - How to tig weld a bolt handle?
So in doing some projects at work and some bolt knob conversions with the Tac Ops kit and I welding the stud to the handle I've become fairly comfortable with tig welding, and now I'm wondering what is involved in tig welding the handle onto the bolt body? Prep work, where to weld and any other...
www.snipershide.com
What I was meaning is that the Remmy bolt handle is silver soldered to the bolt body from the factory and they tend to pull off at some point....needs a real welding job instead of solder.
Here's an older thread about it....
Gunsmithing - How to tig weld a bolt handle?
So in doing some projects at work and some bolt knob conversions with the Tac Ops kit and I welding the stud to the handle I've become fairly comfortable with tig welding, and now I'm wondering what is involved in tig welding the handle onto the bolt body? Prep work, where to weld and any other...
I'm fully aware of the Remington bolt issues.
I don't overload my ammunition. I've never beat on my bolt handles like uncle Sam teaches.
So far, in 40 years of using Remington rifles, I've never snapped a bolt handle loose from the bolt body.
Appreciate it though.
No they didn't. That's what makes it a proper Tikka.
This new gas block didn't come with the tubie thing in it. Can I take this other one apart and get the tube? Does it screw out or something?
its held in with a little roll pin .it can be a bitch getting it in. come to think about it getting the tube out of the block was a challenge with one of the gas block's . i was whacking it rather hard to get it out of the gas block
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So, you just roll the pin to the side, then tap the tube out? Where is the pin that rolls in relation to the hole in the gas block the tube goes in? 
you will need a small pin punch . there is a kit of punches you can get . well worth itSo, you just roll the pin to the side, then tap the tube out? Where is the pin that rolls in relation to the hole in the gas block the tube goes in?
Do you have to go all the way in from the back through the tube to make the pin roll? I have a long stick I might could reach in ther with. I don't see any pins that roll on this thing. 
pin go's through from the side not the endDo you have to go all the way in from the back through the tube to make the pin roll? I have a long stick I might could reach in ther with. I don't see any pins that roll on this thing.
