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Which .338 Lapua dies?
- Thread starter Creature
- Start date
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I read a rather convincing article and a few posts for the Forster seating die vs. Redding seating die. Both were the "competition" or micrometer tops. The vote was for the Forster die over the Redding because it will supposedly hold up better.
That said, I haven't used either one so I can't offer you real world experience.
You'll probably need a FL die eventually as the cartridge will eventually (after 3-5 loadings) for when it becomes hard to cycle the action.
That said, I haven't gotten to that part either, but that's what I've read from the experienced folks.
Hope that helps...
I read a rather convincing article and a few posts for the Forster seating die vs. Redding seating die. Both were the "competition" or micrometer tops. The vote was for the Forster die over the Redding because it will supposedly hold up better.
That said, I haven't used either one so I can't offer you real world experience.
You'll probably need a FL die eventually as the cartridge will eventually (after 3-5 loadings) for when it becomes hard to cycle the action.
That said, I haven't gotten to that part either, but that's what I've read from the experienced folks.
Hope that helps...
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
you'll need to take everything I say with a pound of salt. Your real world experience trumps my knowledge hands down.
I hate to post from AR15.com, but:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=297202
some folks on here gave some good guidance that aided in my Google searching. I found an article comparing the Redding and Forster seating dies and it lead me to believe that both were great dies, but the Forster might hold up better and it's cheaper!
I really can't help ya with the micrometer neck sizing die. Sorry brother.
you'll need to take everything I say with a pound of salt. Your real world experience trumps my knowledge hands down.
I hate to post from AR15.com, but:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=297202
some folks on here gave some good guidance that aided in my Google searching. I found an article comparing the Redding and Forster seating dies and it lead me to believe that both were great dies, but the Forster might hold up better and it's cheaper!
I really can't help ya with the micrometer neck sizing die. Sorry brother.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I have two 338LM's and both of them require full length sizing about every three loadings and they are usually close to needing trimmed also. I use Redding for FL and RCBS for neck dies.
I have two 338LM's and both of them require full length sizing about every three loadings and they are usually close to needing trimmed also. I use Redding for FL and RCBS for neck dies.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I'd say scrape the funds together and pony up for Redding bushing dies with competition seater. You also might want to consider both the bushing FL sizer and the Neck sizer, along with the 338LM body die.
This seems somewhat redundant, but all of your bases are covered with these dies.
Sometimes, you'll want to FL size, other times, you'll just neck size only and still other times, you'll need to just bump he shoulder back slightly. It's a lot of brass to size and it's a bit harder IME, to size things back to chamber specs than it is with a 223 or 308 case.
I'm now on 10 cycles with my 80 Lapua/20Norma (now 19/neck split) and some sizings have been harder than others.
Get the .364 and .365 TiNi bushings, which should be fine. I think that they're now coating the .366 in TiNi, but that might be a tad light on neck tension. We now have Jameson and Hornady brass, to go along with Lapua and Norma, so it might have a use even though I don't need it.
I've loaded ~1000 rounds of 338LM using a Hornady New Dimension Inline seater with their micro seating stem and it's been fine. I have the Forster Micro Seater which I may just break out and use for this next batch of 100, so we'll see. I do own a Redding Competition micro seater in 7 RM and loaded a bunch up using one in 260 Rem for a buddy and they're pretty slick.
All this being said (and I've owned just about every 338LM die out there,) buy once, cry once.
Good luck and don't blow yourself up.
Chris
I'd say scrape the funds together and pony up for Redding bushing dies with competition seater. You also might want to consider both the bushing FL sizer and the Neck sizer, along with the 338LM body die.
This seems somewhat redundant, but all of your bases are covered with these dies.
Sometimes, you'll want to FL size, other times, you'll just neck size only and still other times, you'll need to just bump he shoulder back slightly. It's a lot of brass to size and it's a bit harder IME, to size things back to chamber specs than it is with a 223 or 308 case.
I'm now on 10 cycles with my 80 Lapua/20Norma (now 19/neck split) and some sizings have been harder than others.
Get the .364 and .365 TiNi bushings, which should be fine. I think that they're now coating the .366 in TiNi, but that might be a tad light on neck tension. We now have Jameson and Hornady brass, to go along with Lapua and Norma, so it might have a use even though I don't need it.
I've loaded ~1000 rounds of 338LM using a Hornady New Dimension Inline seater with their micro seating stem and it's been fine. I have the Forster Micro Seater which I may just break out and use for this next batch of 100, so we'll see. I do own a Redding Competition micro seater in 7 RM and loaded a bunch up using one in 260 Rem for a buddy and they're pretty slick.
All this being said (and I've owned just about every 338LM die out there,) buy once, cry once.
Good luck and don't blow yourself up.
Chris
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
Chris, on the batch that you have 10 cycles on... did you flame anneal those as some point along the way?
Chris, on the batch that you have 10 cycles on... did you flame anneal those as some point along the way?
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brians708</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chris, on the batch that you have 10 cycles on... did you flame anneal those as some point along the way? </div></div>
Yes, sure did. Actually my first try at annealing was these 99 338LM cases, so I'm sure I torched some up pretty good, but they're hanging in there. The one Norma neck split was after only 2 cycles, so I was a bit bummed over that, but what the hell...
I'm debating whether or not to anneal them on this cycle once more. In the beginning of my 338LM reloading, I kind of was all over the map. I first got the Hornady generic 338 cal. neck sizer and played with that before getting my Redding bushing dies and going that route.
I would only neck size half way, sometimes 2/3s so I had that whole dynamic going. Save yourself the trouble and get the bushing Redding dies with body die and competition seater if you have the cash to blow.
My Hornady die would etch a picket fence around the neck. I sent it back and it still does it upon return, but I don't use it any longer. I might soak the neck in SWEETS to get the copper off, if that's the issue (it was new, so who knows) or I might just send it back to Hornady and ask for a credit or exchange for something else. Live and learn.
I fashioned a cup out of the end of a cigar tube and threaded a bolt through the bottom. Leveling off the concave shape with white glue and then dropping a penny in there to level things off, further. I use this cup on an RCBS Trim Mate, to spin the cases (~120 rpm)and this is how I anneal my brass currently...holding the torch on the kitchen counter and doing it at night. It works pretty well and the Trim Mate does double duty for other case prepping chores.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brians708</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chris, on the batch that you have 10 cycles on... did you flame anneal those as some point along the way? </div></div>
Yes, sure did. Actually my first try at annealing was these 99 338LM cases, so I'm sure I torched some up pretty good, but they're hanging in there. The one Norma neck split was after only 2 cycles, so I was a bit bummed over that, but what the hell...
I'm debating whether or not to anneal them on this cycle once more. In the beginning of my 338LM reloading, I kind of was all over the map. I first got the Hornady generic 338 cal. neck sizer and played with that before getting my Redding bushing dies and going that route.
I would only neck size half way, sometimes 2/3s so I had that whole dynamic going. Save yourself the trouble and get the bushing Redding dies with body die and competition seater if you have the cash to blow.
My Hornady die would etch a picket fence around the neck. I sent it back and it still does it upon return, but I don't use it any longer. I might soak the neck in SWEETS to get the copper off, if that's the issue (it was new, so who knows) or I might just send it back to Hornady and ask for a credit or exchange for something else. Live and learn.
I fashioned a cup out of the end of a cigar tube and threaded a bolt through the bottom. Leveling off the concave shape with white glue and then dropping a penny in there to level things off, further. I use this cup on an RCBS Trim Mate, to spin the cases (~120 rpm)and this is how I anneal my brass currently...holding the torch on the kitchen counter and doing it at night. It works pretty well and the Trim Mate does double duty for other case prepping chores.
Chris
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
. I guess you have to pay to play.
Anyone having success with a different economical setup?
Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
Anyone having success with a different economical setup?
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
What would be the disadvantage of going with a set like this until I got more money for the Redding set:
RCBS 2-Die Neck Sizer Set 338 Lapua Magnumhttp: www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=664096
I bought 100 pieces of Lapua brass and figure I could get at least 2-3 firings before I need to FL size. Would these work okay until then? Would the standard RCBS neck sizing die excessive resize the case to the point of damaging it?
What would be the disadvantage of going with a set like this until I got more money for the Redding set:
RCBS 2-Die Neck Sizer Set 338 Lapua Magnumhttp: www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=664096
I bought 100 pieces of Lapua brass and figure I could get at least 2-3 firings before I need to FL size. Would these work okay until then? Would the standard RCBS neck sizing die excessive resize the case to the point of damaging it?
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I was recommended to use Forster FL Sizer and Seater, and a Redding Competition ShellHolder set to size the brass as minimal as possible. $89 for the dies, $42 for the shell holders.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=740817
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=430726
I was recommended to use Forster FL Sizer and Seater, and a Redding Competition ShellHolder set to size the brass as minimal as possible. $89 for the dies, $42 for the shell holders.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=740817
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=430726
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 71firebird400</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was recommended to use Forster FL Sizer and Seater, and a Redding Competition ShellHolder set to size the brass as minimal as possible. $89 for the dies, $42 for the shell holders.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=740817
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=430726 </div></div>
Why would I need to buy the whole set of shellholders? Couldn't I just buy the .338 LM one?
Also wouldn't I want to FL size as little as possible to put less stress on the case? If this was the case wouldn't I need a neck sizing die rather than the FL die?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 71firebird400</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was recommended to use Forster FL Sizer and Seater, and a Redding Competition ShellHolder set to size the brass as minimal as possible. $89 for the dies, $42 for the shell holders.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=740817
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=430726 </div></div>
Why would I need to buy the whole set of shellholders? Couldn't I just buy the .338 LM one?
Also wouldn't I want to FL size as little as possible to put less stress on the case? If this was the case wouldn't I need a neck sizing die rather than the FL die?
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Why would I need to buy the whole set of shellholders? Couldn't I just buy the .338 LM one?
Also wouldn't I want to FL size as little as possible to put less stress on the case? If this was the case wouldn't I need a neck sizing die rather than the FL die? </div></div>
By getting the shellholder set you can backoff headspacing, to full length size the minimal amount that still chambers easily. If you prefer to just necksize, then this method is not for you.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Why would I need to buy the whole set of shellholders? Couldn't I just buy the .338 LM one?
Also wouldn't I want to FL size as little as possible to put less stress on the case? If this was the case wouldn't I need a neck sizing die rather than the FL die? </div></div>
By getting the shellholder set you can backoff headspacing, to full length size the minimal amount that still chambers easily. If you prefer to just necksize, then this method is not for you.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I sell that set you have linked above for $218 and is my regular price. Let me know if you need anything Redding and we will get you squared away.
Thanks,
Adam
I sell that set you have linked above for $218 and is my regular price. Let me know if you need anything Redding and we will get you squared away.
Thanks,
Adam
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
. I guess you have to pay to play.
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
. I guess you have to pay to play.
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris </div></div>
I hear you, and I agree. What I'm trying to understand is the particular benefits and details of using the bushing dies. I think I pretty much have it figured out; to put as little stress on the neck/case as possible and still hold the bullet.
I have $1115 in my Remington 700p and will probably have $1600 in a scope/base/rings and possibly another $100 to have my friend blueprint/true the action(depending on how it shoots. I'm in school right now and am trying to do things in the most cost effective manner. I live on $1000 a month so a few hundred dollars is a considerable amount to me.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris </div></div>
I hear you, and I agree. What I'm trying to understand is the particular benefits and details of using the bushing dies. I think I pretty much have it figured out; to put as little stress on the neck/case as possible and still hold the bullet.
I have $1115 in my Remington 700p and will probably have $1600 in a scope/base/rings and possibly another $100 to have my friend blueprint/true the action(depending on how it shoots. I'm in school right now and am trying to do things in the most cost effective manner. I live on $1000 a month so a few hundred dollars is a considerable amount to me.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adam @ MHSA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sell that set you have linked above for $218 and is my regular price. Let me know if you need anything Redding and we will get you squared away.
Thanks,
Adam </div></div>
PM sent
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adam @ MHSA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sell that set you have linked above for $218 and is my regular price. Let me know if you need anything Redding and we will get you squared away.
Thanks,
Adam </div></div>
PM sent
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
I consider myself to be on the cheap side myself. Here is what I learned. Since I bought Lapua brass for my TRG 42 .338, I treat those suckers like gold since they are $200+ for a box of 100. Like Chris did above, I got the generic Hornady .338 neck size die to use along with my redding body die. The Hornady die works that brass way more to my liking. So, I am in the hunt to find a bushing die. Should have done that in the first place. For the seating die, I use a RCBS .308 Competition seating die with the dial on top. In order to use it, I spun a new bushing in my cheap ass mini lathe to use it with the .338 bullets. Works fine and have no problems.
I consider myself to be on the cheap side myself. Here is what I learned. Since I bought Lapua brass for my TRG 42 .338, I treat those suckers like gold since they are $200+ for a box of 100. Like Chris did above, I got the generic Hornady .338 neck size die to use along with my redding body die. The Hornady die works that brass way more to my liking. So, I am in the hunt to find a bushing die. Should have done that in the first place. For the seating die, I use a RCBS .308 Competition seating die with the dial on top. In order to use it, I spun a new bushing in my cheap ass mini lathe to use it with the .338 bullets. Works fine and have no problems.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
Chris is right
buy once but get the right stuff the first time
Bill
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
. I guess you have to pay to play.
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris </div></div>
Chris is right
buy once but get the right stuff the first time
Bill
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ChrisGarrett</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does this look like a good setup/price?
Redding Type S Match bushing Neck Die Set, 338 Lapua Mag: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=423070
Damn $235 seems like a lot of money for dies. I'd still have to buy the bushings and shell holder too. Probably $275 after shipping and all
Anyone having success with a different economical setup? </div></div>
I paid $2650, plus shipping and transfer for my TRG-42, I paid another $1200 for a bipod, spare mag, 3 ring mount and brake and I paid another $2650 for my scope, so paying a couple/few hundred more for the Redding setup wasn't a big expenditure.
You're shooting a target grade rifle which warrants spending money on reloading stuff that is top shelf. You can always pay $110 for 20 rounds of factory ammo and dispense with the reloading.
I've got about 1000 rounds down the pipe and at factory prices, I'm at $5000.
Me? I'm a cheap bastard. Buy right, buy once, cry once.
Chris </div></div>
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
You would be well warranted to get a Ken Light annealing machine to keep your brass.
the IBS LG 1K record was shot with lapua 338 brass that had been shot 54 times and annealed each time.
BH
You would be well warranted to get a Ken Light annealing machine to keep your brass.
the IBS LG 1K record was shot with lapua 338 brass that had been shot 54 times and annealed each time.
BH
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
Yeah I've looked into it along with a couple others. I don't see the Ken Light being totally necessary as I'm not going to be doing high volume. I have a torch and am trying to get a motor(around 60 rpm) to hook up to a shell holder.
The bushing dies look GTG, after necksizing some virgin .308 Lapua brass last night. I used a Lee neck die and ripped half of the neck off of a case, I can see how neck tension can play a big role in preserving brass. Now I need to upgrade my .308 neck die as well.
Yeah I've looked into it along with a couple others. I don't see the Ken Light being totally necessary as I'm not going to be doing high volume. I have a torch and am trying to get a motor(around 60 rpm) to hook up to a shell holder.
The bushing dies look GTG, after necksizing some virgin .308 Lapua brass last night. I used a Lee neck die and ripped half of the neck off of a case, I can see how neck tension can play a big role in preserving brass. Now I need to upgrade my .308 neck die as well.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah I've looked into it along with a couple others. I don't see the Ken Light being totally necessary as I'm not going to be doing high volume. I have a torch and am trying to get a motor(around 60 rpm) to hook up to a shell holder.
The bushing dies look GTG, after necksizing some virgin .308 Lapua brass last night. I used a Lee neck die and ripped half of the neck off of a case, I can see how neck tension can play a big role in preserving brass. Now I need to upgrade my .308 neck die as well. </div></div>
I already use the TrimMate for other duties and the cigar tube was free. Little 'electronics nuts/bolts' fit perfectly and all you have to do to round off the bottom is to pour some white glue in there and let it set...capping off with a penny.
Robusto sizes work better than the thinner tubes.
Midway is running a sale (yeah...go figure?) on the TrimMate at $99.99 through December.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yeah I've looked into it along with a couple others. I don't see the Ken Light being totally necessary as I'm not going to be doing high volume. I have a torch and am trying to get a motor(around 60 rpm) to hook up to a shell holder.
The bushing dies look GTG, after necksizing some virgin .308 Lapua brass last night. I used a Lee neck die and ripped half of the neck off of a case, I can see how neck tension can play a big role in preserving brass. Now I need to upgrade my .308 neck die as well. </div></div>
I already use the TrimMate for other duties and the cigar tube was free. Little 'electronics nuts/bolts' fit perfectly and all you have to do to round off the bottom is to pour some white glue in there and let it set...capping off with a penny.
Robusto sizes work better than the thinner tubes.
Midway is running a sale (yeah...go figure?) on the TrimMate at $99.99 through December.
Chris
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow I wonder if that is something specific to the .338 LM? I have .308 cases that I've only neck sized for up to 15 firings.
<span style="color: #CC0000">WOW</span>
Are there any benefits to using a micrometer neck sizing die? </div></div>
<span style="color: #CC0000">easy adjustment thats all</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Creature</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow I wonder if that is something specific to the .338 LM? I have .308 cases that I've only neck sized for up to 15 firings.
<span style="color: #CC0000">WOW</span>
Are there any benefits to using a micrometer neck sizing die? </div></div>
<span style="color: #CC0000">easy adjustment thats all</span>
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
What size neck bushings are you using with the redding dies? I will be using Lapua brass and 300 Sierra Matchkings. Thanks.
What size neck bushings are you using with the redding dies? I will be using Lapua brass and 300 Sierra Matchkings. Thanks.
Re: Which .338 Lapua dies?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hans44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What size neck bushings are you using with the redding dies? I will be using Lapua brass and 300 Sierra Matchkings. Thanks. </div></div>
.365" in TiNi for about .002"ish of NT and .364" for a tad more. I have both and even the steel .366" but only use the .365" on Lapua and Norma cases for my '42.
I'd say if you could only get one, get the .365", but another $20, or so, isn't going to break the proverbial bank, let's face it.
Be prepared.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hans44</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What size neck bushings are you using with the redding dies? I will be using Lapua brass and 300 Sierra Matchkings. Thanks. </div></div>
.365" in TiNi for about .002"ish of NT and .364" for a tad more. I have both and even the steel .366" but only use the .365" on Lapua and Norma cases for my '42.
I'd say if you could only get one, get the .365", but another $20, or so, isn't going to break the proverbial bank, let's face it.
Be prepared.
Chris
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