Which barrel diameter?

Jayjay1

Gunny Sergeant
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Oct 30, 2018
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Hello guys,
I´m pretty new to LR shooting, running a Tikka CTR 24" in 6.5 CM.

I´m watching all your tuned and upgraded neat rifles and am wondering which barrel diameters you are running when you are changing your barrels.

Is there "a way to go", I mean none of the changed barrels has a "standard" contour what I´m seeing.
But there are so much variants out there, and what about the weight?

I would appreciate your infos.

Cheers,
Jay
 
I am a MTU/M24/Heavy Palma fan myself, but those fit with my style of shooting. Have a few Straight as well.

You’ll find all sorts of responses on this topic all over the map. Like a “which motor oil is the best” debate.
 
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Well, instead of the 24" original barrel I would love to have rather a 22" barrel - if it is possible to gain the same velocity.

And I want the rifle to stay as a multi purpose rifle like it is, a bit more weight for more precisiosn would be fine with me.
Main goal is LRS, the rifle should still be "carryable", that´s why I would like a bit shorter barrel, but don´t want to lose velocity and would like it to be a bit more stable / sturdy / less vibrating.

Hope you understand what I mean.

Cheers,
Jay
 
Well, instead of the 24" original barrel I would love to have rather a 22" barrel - if it is possible to gain the same velocity.

And I want the rifle to stay as a multi purpose rifle like it is, a bit more weight for more precisiosn would be fine with me.
Main goal is LRS, the rifle should still be "carryable", that´s why I would like a bit shorter barrel, but don´t want to lose velocity and would like it to be a bit more stable / sturdy / less vibrating.

Hope you understand what I mean.

Cheers,
Jay
You will typically get more velocity per inch from a custom, cut rifled barrel that a hammer forged factory barrel. It wouldn't surprise me if a 22" custom barrel was faster than your 24" factory barrel. For your "all around" use I'd look at a sendero, or medium palma profile.

As far as being "carryable", the only place 2" makes enough difference to worry about is in the bedroom. That said, you'd probably be better off spending money on ammo and training and wear out that factory barrel before replacing it.
 
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Well, in the bedroom there is no worry about inches, you know?
When my wifey yells "Deeper, deeper!" - I begin to yell as well "Tighter, tighter!" - that always shuts her up immediately.
:cool:

But jokes aside.

Of course I will firstly shoot out the factory barrel, which might be in the near future if my bullet count stays the same, that´s the reason why I´m asking.

Button rifled will gain more velocity than hammer forging, never heard about that, very interesting.
Thank you.
 
Depends on the setup. If you're running a barrel nut, the diameter near the chamber is going to have to be smaller to fit the nut over it, whereas a direct fit will allow a heavier contour.

Personally, I would go MTU or M24 with a direct fit.
 
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For a given barrel, you lose about 25fps per inch of barrel length shorter. As stated above, a good quality cut rifled barrel with a well-conditioned bore (i.e. - Bartlein's lapping, Kreiger, etc) will shoot faster.

I shoot heavy Palma profiles because it suits my purposes. You need to temper barrel weight and stiffness with humping the weight if you're using it for hunting.
 
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As has allready been stated for your intended use the Sendero or medium Palma would be a good fit.
Those are two of my favorites and fall into what I consider a comfortable carry weight rifle for hunting.
I also have a 6.5 CM with a Bartlien M24 profile finished at 23" that is plenty handy for hunting and carrying but everyone has there own preferences.
Just as one data point for comparison the 23" Bartlien runs 60 fps faster than the stated velocity on the box of Norma 130 match ammo from a shorter barrel than listed on the box.
 
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Most of my rifles are intended to be used in a stationary context. They are also usually fired in strings of 10 or 20 rounds at a time.

Heavier barrels can absorb more heat, postponing the effects of that heat. And since I'm not lugging that rifle all over East Hell and back, the weight isn't that much of a drawback.

The heat, not so much. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch. Postponing heat effects comes at a price; cooling is likewise postponed. The rifle will continue to manifest heat related accuracy issues for a longer time than a skinny barrel, no way around that. Folks do employ barrel coolers and I'm learning that they work, too; but there's still a time overhead, even if the cooler shortens that significantly.

The skinny barrel is better for walkabout; and since they're usually shorter, too, they can be used in constricted spaces, too. Heat effects show up earlier in string fire. Their consequences can be variable based on barrel stress characteristics. That's not easily assessed before purchase, and choosing a lightweight barrel may be a bit of a crapshoot.

The better news is that lightweight barrels can dissipate that heat quicker; sometimes a lot quicker. Once in awhile, one finds a lightweight barrel that shoots as well hot as it does cool. These barrels are like Hen's teeth, to be kept and preserved as best one can.

I'm not going to attempt discussing heat absorption and rejection related to carbon barrel construction; I can't make what I consider a reliable decision on that subject.

Barrel length can be used as a means to obtain higher velocity; and conversely, to obtain the same velocity with less mayhem in the engine room.

That's how I use my 28" 260 barrel. I replaced a 24" barrel with the 28" one, and shoot it at roughly 2750fps. It's capable of another 100fps, but I don't run it there. I believe that this increases throat/bore life. I've been shooting it for 14-15 years now, so there could be some truth to the theory.

No matter what velocity you run at, you still need to deal with the same wind; and IMHO, upping the velocity vs improving one's wind skills is a bad bargain.

The key velocity is 1300fps or better at the target. The rest is about wind skills, and not about velocity. My strategy is not about fighting the wind, but about enlisting it to blow the bullet into the X Ring.

Greg
 
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Thanks for all of your infos guys, I appreciate that!

I think I will have to decide between the Palma Medium and the Palma Heavy.

Thanks and best wishes,
Jay
 
Medium palma is my favorite contour for general use. I find it really balances well and is easier to hold steady for my type of use as I like the rifle to be a little barrel heavy. For a bigger cartridge I like the extra weight to offset recoil somewhat. As a general rule no smaller than .75 at the muzzle but .85 is about perfect.
 
Most of my rifles are intended to be used in a stationary context. They are also usually fired in strings of 10 or 20 rounds at a time.

Heavier barrels can absorb more heat, postponing the effects of that heat. And since I'm not lugging that rifle all over East Hell and back, the weight isn't that much of a drawback.

The heat, not so much. There ain't no such thing as a free lunch. Postponing heat effects comes at a price; cooling is likewise postponed. The rifle will continue to manifest heat related accuracy issues for a longer time than a skinny barrel, no way around that. Folks do employ barrel coolers and I'm learning that they work, too; but there's still a time overhead, even if the cooler shortens that significantly.

The skinny barrel is better for walkabout; and since they're usually shorter, too, they can be used in constricted spaces, too. Heat effects show up earlier in string fire. Their consequences can be variable based on barrel stress characteristics. That's not easily assessed before purchase, and choosing a lightweight barrel may be a bit of a crapshoot.

The better news is that lightweight barrels can dissipate that heat quicker; sometimes a lot quicker. Once in awhile, one finds a lightweight barrel that shoots as well hot as it does cool. These barrels are like Hen's teeth, to be kept and preserved as best one can.

I'm not going to attempt discussing heat absorption and rejection related to carbon barrel construction; I can't make what I consider a reliable decision on that subject.

Barrel length can be used as a means to obtain higher velocity; and conversely, to obtain the same velocity with less mayhem in the engine room.

That's how I use my 28" 260 barrel. I replaced a 24" barrel with the 28" one, and shoot it at roughly 2750fps. It's capable of another 100fps, but I don't run it there. I believe that this increases throat/bore life. I've been shooting it for 14-15 years now, so there could be some truth to the theory.

No matter what velocity you run at, you still need to deal with the same wind; and IMHO, upping the velocity vs improving one's wind skills is a bad bargain.

The key velocity is 1300fps or better at the target. The rest is about wind skills, and not about velocity. My strategy is not about fighting the wind, but about enlisting it to blow the bullet into the X Ring.

Greg

Completely agree with 99% of what you say here... I love long heavy barrels not pushed to the Nth degree. But with the newer modular systems with prefit barrels it makes the penalty for pushing to the max more acceptable. If I spent the money to build a fancy custom rifle, it would be loaded right in line with your idealogy.
 
I am slowly swinging away form the 24" or more barrel length viewpoint, and seriously seeking a strategy allowing the use of a factory load.

My 308's are my test beds. A bolt Savage 24" and a PSA PA-10 20" are the primary implements, and a pair of AR Stoner 6.5 Grendel Upper (20" and 24") are the secondaries.

I've been reading some internet conjecture suggesting that accuracy nodes occur with the same loads in 308 20" and 24", 6.5G in 20" and 24", and 6.5G in 18" and 22" (with a different load from the 20/24). This corresponds to experiences I have also had with 260 in 24" and 28" (L-W Stainless 28", 1:8", Savage Varmint Contour).

The thoereticals are apparently based in OBT science, but I'm not at all versed in that stuff.

Handloads are also being developed for comparison, etc.; for nagging concerns, I don't like the concept of being totally dependent on an accuracy ammunition source that I cannot put unswerving faith into.

For the Grendels, I'm using AE 90gr TNT and Hornady Custom 123SST loads. Th 308's use IMI 168 Semi-Auto Match.

I'd like to be more helps with the 338, but chronic surgical consequences don't allow me that sort of recoil.

Greg
 
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Well, instead of the 24" original barrel I would love to have rather a 22" barrel - if it is possible to gain the same velocity.

And I want the rifle to stay as a multi purpose rifle like it is, a bit more weight for more precisiosn would be fine with me.
Main goal is LRS, the rifle should still be "carryable", that´s why I would like a bit shorter barrel, but don´t want to lose velocity and would like it to be a bit more stable / sturdy / less vibrating.

Hope you understand what I mean.

Cheers,
Jay

I have a 23.5" medium palma 6.5 Creed Bartlein on my CTR that was a 20" 260. It is almost 200 fps faster than a 20" 6.5 CTR barrel that I picked up on here for a lighter hunting rifle. I have a heavy palma blank that will be my next 6.5 Creed comp barrel, the medium palma isn't heavy enough for me as a match rifle. Stick with the palma contours for your Tikka as M24 and some others have to be contoured to match the Tikka action. Not as much to contour on the palma blanks.

I will probably cut my medium palma barrel down to 16-18" for a suppressed hunting barrel and it will probably be faster than the factory 20" barrel.