I have a handful of semi auto pistols, but I've been wanting to get a wheel gun for awhile for woods carry. I'm partial to S&W and want a 44 Magnum. Narrowed it down to the 69 Combat Magnum, 329PD and 629PC. I was dead set on the 329PD until I started reading of issues with frame damage, flame cutting and crimp jump with heavier loads. Leaning toward the Combat Magnum at this point. Thoughts?
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Sidearms & Scatterguns Which S&W revolver for woods carry?
- Thread starter AK4900PA
- Start date
That 69 combat magnum is the ticket for what you are looking to do. I would put a set of nice pachmayr decelerator grips on it though. It will carry way better than the others. The 329 is a beast to fire and you wont want to very often.
The combat magnum is a k frame, and they are the cat’s ass for carrying. Five shooter, but i’ve never needed more than 2...most times 1 gets it done (and i carry a 357).
The combat magnum is a k frame, and they are the cat’s ass for carrying. Five shooter, but i’ve never needed more than 2...most times 1 gets it done (and i carry a 357).
If you do some reading, back before autoloaders took over and revolvers ruled the day, the smith model 19 and 66 ruled the day for police. They were prefered because you could carry it everyday and not suffer. The 66 combat magnum ups the power lever, but in the same size frame as the 19 and the 66. I wish they made one in 41 magnum.
I have a 329 PD and love it. If you are going to carry it a lot but not shoot a ton, I would highly recommend it. It's not a pistol you'll want to shoot all day with magnum rounds but really isn't all that bad if you have experience shooting a 44 mag. The included Hogue grips that it comes with help (but don't look as nice).
Find a used 629 Mountain Gun
You're welcome
You're welcome
Model 629 4" barrel loaded with Buffalo Bore ammo is what I carry in grizzly country. Just enough to piss the bear off 
PC 629 gets my vote. I have the PC627 great gun. If you go with the 629 you will definitely want to change the grips. I put some bigger combat style grips on mine and made it much better to shoot. I like the N frame for .44 mag..
The 69 Combat Magnum is the best of those three if you want a 44 short-barreled gun. But, I have to mention out of real world experience that I personally prefer some barrel length for a woods gun. I've had to use my 6" 686 (357) a few times on testy wild hogs and I like having 6 shots instead of 5, and I like being able to pull the trigger on them before they get that close. And, I have downed some BIG hogs with one .357 round out of that gun.
Not sure where your at, but for my area it's mostly snakes and hogs you have to worry about. S&W 686 4" .357
At right is S&W 629 Mountain Gun
In middle is S&W 57 in 41 Magnum that was cut, magnaported, dehorned, butt rounded, night sights added, finished with black teflon, has an excellent DA trigger -- the Hogue grips can be put on it instead of the rounded wood grips. Carried this and never felt undergunned with it.
Always been intrigued by the 329PD but have not messed with one. Definitely a carry a lot shoot a little gun I think. I carry in a chest rig in the woods so it’s out of the way and makes carrying a bigger gun easier.
I also would look for a used Mountain gun if you can find one, if not a 3” 686 or 629. No bears near me so I usually carry 2 snake loads in the first up chambers.
I also would look for a used Mountain gun if you can find one, if not a 3” 686 or 629. No bears near me so I usually carry 2 snake loads in the first up chambers.
I've owned and "woods carried" a 329PD for at least 15 years. It's been fired, maybe, an average of 30 rounds per year (maybe). It shows zero sign of wear from shooting but, to be fair, I only shoot with 44 Special powered loads now. When carried in snake weather it is loaded 1/2 cylinder with snake shot and 1/2 cylinder with 240 grain cast bullets and about 1,000 FPS.
I know there are lots of tales about 329 failures but also that most are just that. I definitely would trust the 329's integrity more than the K-Frame 69.
I know there are lots of tales about 329 failures but also that most are just that. I definitely would trust the 329's integrity more than the K-Frame 69.
if you want to shoot it much, get the 69. If you want the lightest gun for carrying, and not shooting much at all, get the 329.
I carry a 360 in 357 and it is a light gun.....15 ounces. And let me tell you, it’s a monster to fire. I dont shoot it much. But when i need it, i have it and all the power i need. I dont want to know what a 25 ounce 44 magnum feels like to fire. The 69 bridges the gap between the full size n frame and the 329 lightweight version nicely. It comes in at 34 or 37 ounces, depending on barrel length. But that doesnt tell the whole story....
gun dimensions are significantly smaller and it is obvious to feel in the hand, that is the trait that does not show up on the internet. It’s hard to quantify, but the k frames fit the hand and ride on your side better than any other revolver in existance.....except the j frame-but they dont make 44s in the j frame.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound, the 69 is the ideal cross between tolerable weight and size for all day carry, yet enough heft to help tame recoil, and power in a compact handgun. The only way it would be better would be if it was in 41 magnum.
I carry a 360 in 357 and it is a light gun.....15 ounces. And let me tell you, it’s a monster to fire. I dont shoot it much. But when i need it, i have it and all the power i need. I dont want to know what a 25 ounce 44 magnum feels like to fire. The 69 bridges the gap between the full size n frame and the 329 lightweight version nicely. It comes in at 34 or 37 ounces, depending on barrel length. But that doesnt tell the whole story....
gun dimensions are significantly smaller and it is obvious to feel in the hand, that is the trait that does not show up on the internet. It’s hard to quantify, but the k frames fit the hand and ride on your side better than any other revolver in existance.....except the j frame-but they dont make 44s in the j frame.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound, the 69 is the ideal cross between tolerable weight and size for all day carry, yet enough heft to help tame recoil, and power in a compact handgun. The only way it would be better would be if it was in 41 magnum.
I'm in East Texas so it's for snakes and hogs. I currently carry a .45 Shield with the first two rounds being snake shot. Works good, but Ive wanted a revolver for a while now and want something with a bit more oomph, hence the .44 Magnum.
Leaning heavily toward the 69 Combat Magnum right now as I do want something I can actually shoot at the range also.
South East area here. Another vote for a 610 6". Got the combat package performed on it. Shoots very well. Gotta work up some loads. Open carry of course.
Also carry GP100 4" 357. Alternate between the two depending on location and intended activities
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i’ve owned a lot of pistols....and i can tell you that if you buy the 69, you’ll never regret it. the others? you are going to have at least one reason why you’ll regret buying. there will be something about it that will make you feel like there is an advantage you dont have. you wont have that problem with the 69.
Always wonder how those modern poorly finished modern Smiths sell when so many finely finished old guns languish in shops at low prices. If you are not familiar with them go look at an old 5 screw smith that sells for less than a new one. Feel the action. Good luck in your search.
I wanna know where all these older cheap smith and wessons are languishing in shops.....because when i see the old pinned and recessed smiths, they command top dollar.
Maybe i am missing something intended as tongue in cheek.
I have looked at the SRH Alaskan. If I still lived in AK I'd be all over a 454 Casull version. My main rationale for sticking with the S&W is lighter weight and familiarity, as I occasionally carry a S&W model 65 for work.
the last one i saw, i bought. and it was the only time i ever saw one. check out the price on a p&r model 57.....dont be eating or drinking when you do...you’re liable to choke. the old 4 inch mountain gun? forget it. if you are indeed seeing these guns for low prices, you are missing a prime opportunity to score some quick cash. i love the older guns. but i like the new smiths, too. you wont hear me running down the new ones.
I think some people get caught up in the cosmetics, and forget about function when they see a "steal".
The old S&W's for cheap probably have serious internal issues. 90 percent of the time I see a clean-looking one for a good deal they have timing/push off/yoke/cylinder etc... issues.
I've purchased somewhere between 15 - 20, P&R Smiths off of Gunbroker too over the past few years. At least four I can think of had mechanical issues thst weren't disclosed...and all of those revolvers came from large, reputable dealers (1,000+ positive feedback). Fixing those was how I learned to do anything to a S&W revolver.
With the internet at everyone's fingertips, nobody is going to skip a 30 second internet search...they want what they can get out of a gun.
*** Sorry for going off-topic. OP: For the record, I'd recommend the 69, but the one with the 4.25" barrel. I saw someone above say that it us a K-frame...it is not...it is on an L-frame. You need a little barrel length to get enough powder burn to get some velocity out of a magnum, and the 329 has too many frame and internal lock issues.
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The ones I see are often in great shape. Some have finish wear. Very few have mechanical issues. Over the last 18 months I have bought 2 51’s in the box. Both first year production. One unfired. One K frame 22LR/22 mag unfired in box. Two 5 screw K22’s one 4” and one 6”. Both unfired in the 40’s era boxes. Also a very rare Mod 27 in 44 Special. All Smith parts that I am lettering now. You just need to keep your eyes and ears open.
Looks like i stand corrected.... even as a L frame, it’d still be the cats meow for a 44. The 357s are k frame, the 44s are L frames. L frame is still a nice carrying size.
Here is an interesting read https://www.ammoland.com/2019/03/pi...r-attack-95-effective-63-cases/#axzz6BGKBzMAd. This has been posted here before but this has additional data points.
Interesting to be sure. It appears to depend upon many factors: the size of the bear, where you shoot him, how many times, and with what. Personally, I never go into the woods depending upon a .22 for protection. As a threat, I see more wild hogs than anything else, and I have killed many hogs with a .22 rifle. But, one day I had a 300lb+ boar put me up a tree, and I put a .22lr round out of my Ruger pistol dead square in the front of his head at point blank range as he ran by, and he never even blinked. From that day on, I still did a lot of hunting with a .22, but I also packed a large caliber handgun.
I carried a 629 in an El-paso Saddlery cross draw gunbelt for a while. I didn't stop carrying it because the 6 or 6.5" barreled revolvers were too heavy, but because they were getting too valuable. I have a weakness for no dash P&R 629s, and the unfluted Hunters, and the -3 Classics. A good belt/holster can greatly assist with weight management...but length still is a factor.
Started carrying a beater S&W M&P40. Killed three hogs with it so far, including one 125lb boar through the head...admittedly though I had snared the boar and it was doing it's best to break the wire and get me.
I still prefer horsepower in a sidearm though. My .44s were always loaded with 240gr hardcast over 11.0gr Unique.
Started carrying a beater S&W M&P40. Killed three hogs with it so far, including one 125lb boar through the head...admittedly though I had snared the boar and it was doing it's best to break the wire and get me.
I still prefer horsepower in a sidearm though. My .44s were always loaded with 240gr hardcast over 11.0gr Unique.
Interesting study isn't it? The first thing that struck me is that is that there are relatively few incidents over an extended period of time. That infers that we are either paranoid regarding the likely hood of a confrontation or that the reporting of these confrontations is under reported. I think it is probably a bit of both. People who spend a lot of time in these areas tend to believe in the "SSS" rule unless they have someone in LE who they trust not to throw them under the bus.
There are other items that seem clear. Anything is better than nothing. Larger caliber is better than smaller. Higher velocity is better than lower. Penetration is paramount. The other imperative is that the handgun must be deployable on short notice. Many of these encounters developed in a very short time frame. Follow up shots were often necessary.
To be clear, I have a dearth of knowledge regarding big bears. I did spend four months in the Yukon and Alaska and was privileged to be able to watch a bunch of grizz but only one time could be considered a near encounter.
Now back to the OP's actual question. The choice of any firearm for a task is always a series of compromises. The 329PD has reputed frame weakness which causes catastrophic frame failures. S&W recalled a group of Custom Shop 329s that used a solid barrel rather then the two piece barrels common on the 329PD. There are numerous pictures of 329s with the shrouded barrels blown on the top strap. I think I'll pass particularly with the reports of ammo in the 329s jumping their crimp. I had this happen with factory .357 158gr loads years ago and the Python was inop. No thank you. So in a Smith that gets down to a 69, a 29 or a 629. If you can't carry on of those comfortably in a chest rig than go to the gym.
I like this little guy, 3" S&W 60 38 special. The 357 version is nice too.(not really bear defense), most everything else.
Mike
Mike
629PC every day and twice in Sunday’s! Love mine. I’d like to get an V-comp on day but that’s not a great EDC in the woods.
My 629 ate me up pretty good with the factory grips, this is after about 25 rounds.
I upgraded to VZ grips and getting that third finger on it changed everything. It’s a lot of fun to shoot.
And at 30’ she shoots really well. Rear is adjusted all the way, need to move the front sight over a touch and really get it zeroed.
My 629 ate me up pretty good with the factory grips, this is after about 25 rounds.
I upgraded to VZ grips and getting that third finger on it changed everything. It’s a lot of fun to shoot.
And at 30’ she shoots really well. Rear is adjusted all the way, need to move the front sight over a touch and really get it zeroed.
^^Your sights are most likely fine, you are pushing the trigger to the left as you are breaking the shots; pull the trigger straight back and follow-thru.
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Nope, trust me. I got the gun used and the front sight is leaned over a good 5-10 degrees and I'm pretty sure it got knocked off center then
Probably need to replace it just incase it got over stressed, wish I had a picture.
You think someone fired it and it flew out of their hand and bent the sight? That’s my guess....Nope, trust me. I got the gun used and the front sight is leaned over a good 5-10 degrees and I'm pretty sure it got knocked off center then
That’s exactly my guess but there’s no other marks on it so it may have just been fumbled and dropped.
For simple carry in the field, this is my choice.
657 in 41 Mag, done up by John Jovino.
You don't want to know how little $$ it sold for.
Otherwise, a nice SA gets the nod.
Refurb by Gary Reeder.
Also in 41 Mag.
657 in 41 Mag, done up by John Jovino.
You don't want to know how little $$ it sold for.
Otherwise, a nice SA gets the nod.
Refurb by Gary Reeder.
Also in 41 Mag.
I agree. You can really catch yourself doing this on a long-barreled revolver, but not so easy to catch on a short barreled one. One thing you can try is to shoot from a bench and rest the frame of the revolver on a bag and see where the shots go. That will tell you a lot.
my vote would be the same but swap on over to the 2.5" and some Ahrends Combat Grips.
