Hello, need some help picking a barrel maker for my Tikka that I will be using for PRS. I checked Proofs website and it don’t seem like they come in a heavy contour? Any other suggestions for who makes a good barrel? Thanks again
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Carbon6. I have one, and it shoots well.
As an aside, carbon fiber barrels do tend to generate a mirage much quicker than a regular barrel, so for PRS type matches, keep that in mind.
@bohem with PVA can fix you up with a rock creek pre-fit. I have bought several from them for my Tikkas and Sakos.
Rock creek are top tier as well. I have only had one Bartlein barrel and could tell no difference. Any top tier barrel chambered by a good smith would be equals. You coukd send a Bartlein to them as well if thats what you want.How do there barrels compare to say a Bartlein or similar barrel?
Rock creek are top tier as well. I have only had one Bartlein barrel and could tell no difference. Any top tier barrel chambered by a good smith would be equals. You coukd send a Bartlein to them as well if thats what you want.
The only reason I recommend PVA is because they have done all my barrels and I haven’t had a reason not to keep using them. There are other guys like keystone accuracy, LRI etc that all turn out good stuff. I just have never used them.
What caliber for the tikka?im getting ready to buy a pva barrel soon as well , just got my barrel vice and action wrench so im good to go
They make their own barrels. Carbon one barrels are built of Mcgowen blanks.probably a newer company that doesnt have a reputation yet, what barrels do they use?
Uhhh, no. McGowan has been around for a long time making barrels. Never top tier barrels but generally a step above a factory barrel. Some shoot very well, above what you would expect for the cost. It seems like their newer barrels generally perform better thank the barrels of old (newer machines?).probably a newer company that doesnt have a reputation yet, what barrels do they use?
web page says they started in 2007, i guess im getting oldUhhh, no. McGowan has been around for a long time making barrels. Never top tier barrels but generally a step above a factory barrel. Some shoot very well, above what you would expect for the cost.
It sure if this is relevant in your situation but the old axiom; “ you want cheap, Fast or quality?” Pick any two holds true here IMHO. I think LRI and PVA have earned their reputations. I will go to them when I rebarrel my tikka.
Button barrels made to a bit lower level than a Rock and probably not as much attention to detail as PVA plus they make and machine the barrel so less mark up.Just doing some interweb searching and came across McGowen Barrels, why are they much cheaper than something from PVA ect?
PVA offers button and rifle cut rock creek barrels. I have only bought the button cut and have been happy. They claim how Rock Creek makes them that their isn’t a bit of difference on performance or longevity. I wouldn’t know as the cheaper button barrels do everything I could expect.Button barrels made to a bit lower level than a Rock and probably not as much attention to detail as PVA.
Odds are the Mcgowen will shoot pretty damn good though.
Button barrels can be fantastic.PVA offers button and rifle cut rock creek barrels. I have only bought the button cut and have been happy. They claim how Rock Creek makes them that their isn’t a bit of difference on performance or longevity. I wouldn’t know as the cheaper button barrels do everything I could expect.
Yes it is as long as it shoots well and holds up as long as the higher quality barrels. It may. I wouldn’t know.Button barrels can be fantastic.
Rock creek button barrels have a good reputation.
I’ve had a bunch of excellent Shilen’s
$400 is a lot nicer to than $650-750
As fat as you can get. My match dasher is a pva shouldered proof comp contour, my match 6creed is a pva straight contour barrel nut set up.For PRS what barrel contour do your guys recommend?
As fat as you can get. My match dasher is a pva shouldered proof comp contour, my match 6creed is a pva straight contour barrel nut set up.
The proof comp is right at 7 lbs, the straight plus barrel nut is 6 lbs, both 26".
The tikka will be a bit thinner at the shank with its slightly smaller action diameter but for prs I would put as thick as you could get for otherwise free weight and recoil reduction. I wouldnt go smaller than a m40/mtu. Ive got a 20" 6.5 creed mtu pva on my trainer rifle and its noticeably lighter and higher recoiling but its still not bad by any means. But for competing you certainly will notice it.
I assume that pva would just try to turn the shank down a smidge from to fit within the thinner action diameter but will keep everything going forward the same and thick as hell. But I dont actually know what they would do or if it would just stand proud of the action. (I just know I had to send my mcgowen howage back)With the Tikka will it accept the larger Proof Comp? If so I would definitely want that contour in 26 inch. Just haven’t decided on 6 or 6.5 Creedmoor.
Just spin it on and enjoy that over priced ammo! My factory 6.5 only has about 500 on it. Just know that while you might think you swap them back and forth, you won't want to.Just got my PVA tikka prefit in a week or so ago. Haven't shot it yet but seems to be good quality with good machining. Going back n forth between waiting on my factory barrel to be shot out (has ~900rd on it so far) and just spinning on the PVA right now....
As heavy as you want to carry. I did a McGowan #8 on my latest build. It's heavier than an MTU.For PRS what barrel contour do your guys recommend?
This is what I'm leaning towards. I don't centerfire a ton so it might be another year until the stock barrel is worn our hahaJust spin it on and enjoy that over priced ammo! My factory 6.5 only has about 500 on it. Just know that while you might think you swap them back and forth, you won't want to.
Just read up well on taking off the factory barrel. Some say it is easy and some say it is a pain. I had a local smith do it. The finish got pretty messed up but I don't care. I asked PVA and we went with their recommended 70 lbs for the new barrel.This is what I'm leaning towards. I don't centerfire a ton so it might be another year until the stock barrel is worn our haha
Funny you mention this, I just got back from a local smith who tried to pull it off. We decided to just cut a relief cut in the barrel. Hopefully I'll have it by Monday.Just read up well on taking off the factory barrel. Some say it is easy and some say it is a pain. I had a local smith do it. The finish got pretty messed up but I don't care. I asked PVA and we went with their recommended 70 lbs for the new barrel.