Re: Why taper a barrel?
I have an untapered, 27.75" finished length Shilen on a Savage 12 which started as an FV. It's in a Choate Sniper stock, which even with the factory barrel on it, was heavy. Now it's an enormously heavy stick that is really only practical to carry from safe to car to bench.
Tapering it changes the vibration characteristics, overall stiffness, balance and total weight.
Tapering it can allow you to tune for a specific bullet weight and target velocity to make the muzzle sit as still as possible but it requires a bit of math and some decent capabilities as a lathe operator, it's not a linear taper. I thought about doing this and also setting up the crown with a counter bore to act as a tuning collar. It's a decent amount of work though and it's only good for the original barrel and bullet/velocity. If you set it back, you're screwed. If you make a mistake cutting the barrel and have to set it back 50 thou, you're screwed, if you decided to calculate everything based on the 174 Amax by Hornady you're screwed because they quit making it and only make the 178 now. It's an effort in futility unless you get it absolutely right on the first shot, you're a machinist that never F's up (which I'm certainly not) and you can afford to throw away a match barrel if a bullet maker decides to change their product line.
OK, I'm done. I didn't mean this as a sarcastic or snide response to your question, I'm just trying to explain why given the proper academic consideration I never tried cutting a barrel contour like that.