witt machine

colscar · Oct 25, 2013

i got a 700 police 26" barrel 308 and i wanted to put a break on it. aint got the cash to thread it. saw the witt machine clamp on break online and was wondering if any wone had any feed back on it . im a bit sceptical bolting something to the end of the barrel with out it messing it up, any opinions

colscar · Oct 25, 2013

http://wittmachine.net web sit jic

Navitimer · Oct 25, 2013

colscar said:
i got a 700 police 26" barrel 308 and i wanted to put a break on it. aint got the cash to thread it. saw the witt machine clamp on break online and was wondering if any wone had any feed back on it . im a bit sceptical bolting something to the end of the barrel with out it messing it up, any opinions

A couple thoughts... 26" is pretty long for a .308. I understand that's the standard length used by Rem on these models, but long nonetheless. Adding a muzzle brake will only add to that length. Finally, are you sure you need a brake on a .308 bolt action? If you're getting some aggressive bucking and brawling you might want to look at your form of hold. All this said, those brakes look pretty nice if you don't mind the length, although I haven't personally used them or read a review.

kl3309 · Oct 26, 2013

BRAKE!!! It's a BRAKE! M-U-Z-Z-L-E freaking B-R-A-K-E!

kfwittekiend · Oct 26, 2013

I make them here in Fort Garland, Co. If you don't like it for any reason, or it doesn't do as advertised I buy it back, no questions asked.

Thanks,

Ken

pawprint2 · Oct 26, 2013

kfwittekiend said:
I make them here in Fort Garland, Co. If you don't like it for any reason, or it doesn't do as advertised I buy it back, no questions asked.

Thanks,

Ken

It Does not get any better than that! I've not tried one of your products, however; with that kind of guarantee, I will be!

colscar · Oct 27, 2013

sounds good bro send me a pic of your work ...... mind you my barrel isn't threaded

Supergyro · Oct 27, 2013

I have no experience with this product, and you're more than welcome to be a guinea pig, but you may consider skipping a few dinners on the town this month and just have the thing threaded correctly.

kfwittekiend · Oct 27, 2013

We've got more than a thousand of these out there to date. I don't believe he would be a "guinea pig". We make threaded brakes as well, but for some folks a clamp on brake just makes more sense.

There are lots of pictures on our website, Witt Machine

Thanks,

Ken

TOP PREDATOR · Jan 18, 2014

Witt machine clamp on muzzle brake review

I have two of these, one on a .308, one on a .243, (just because).

First off (disclaimer) - The review (or DIY project) is not a paid endorsement or advertisement, nor have I any affiliation with any of the companies of the topic product(s) or any other product(s) shown, or have interests in their competitors if an unfavorable review – just my opinion for what that is worth.

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> I've always had screw on brakes, and was a bit skeptical of clamp-ons hearing stories of baffle strikes and the brake coming off. Through Gearhog I received a coupon, and since I shortened the barrel on my .308, I figured for the price I'd try this brake vs. the price of getting it rethreaded + brake. Even without using the coupon discount, for the budget build folks, it's still a bargain without having to pay for the barrel getting threaded. A few views of the brake:

The biggest thing is measuring your barrel correctly. Once you think you have the correct measurements, measure again to make sure. In the brake there is a step cut that the muzzle rests against and the rest is tapered a bit to fit your barrel, this is another reason why accurate measuring is so important, to fully engage the step with the muzzle. You can also check to make sure the brake is fully bumped up against the muzzle by looking in the slot on the bottom of the brake.

After receiving the brake and inspecting it, it is a VERY nicely machined product. There was a slight burr in 2 of the smaller top ports that was easily removed by inserting a properly sized punch into the port. There is also numbers stamped on the mouth rim indicating the size of the brake / your barrel taper. The exit hole of the brake for the .308 was .355, so I felt confident of no baffle strikes if my measurements and alignments were correct.

Installation was super easy, taking my time and being carefull it still only took approx 15 minutes, including wiping off the old Krylon paint job with acetone, and making sure there is no remaining residue. For non painted rifles, wiping off oils and such is a must, as part of the install suggests using blue Loctite around the barrel and on the screws for added adhesion when it's dried, and for added lubrication during the install. Below is a better picture of the "step cut" inside to seat your muzzle against to ensure the brake is fully engaged with your barrel.

1 of the screws did strip out, but Witt provides replacement screws with the brake so no big deal or surprise this happens, perhaps I over torqued it trying to get the tightest clamp I could. Level your rifle, then put a level on your brake to make sure the gasses being ported isn't throwing your rifle to the left or right. This will not only add to the look of the rifle (everything lined up) but also the performance as far as follow through. **Perhaps this should be added to the installation instructions as a tip.

After installing, I matched the finish of my rifle (the good ol' Krylon camo). Perhaps I should have waited to do this in the event there was an adjustment needed, however the paint did act as a witness mark to allow a visual if there is any creeping of the brake. If a more permanent finish is being applied, I would wait to make sure everything is good to go before matching the finish. A piece of tape around the barrel where it meets the brake will serve the same function as a witness mark. It will tell you if the brake is slipping and if you need to tighten it more. **Another tip that perhaps should be added for safety / proper installation.

The overall appearance, in my opinion, was very nice. It does add 2" of length to your barrel. It has an aggressive look without looking too gaudy, even on my sporter barrel. The clamp / bolt section didn't overly out of place.

At the range, I was a bit apprehensive to fire off the first few rounds, again hearing stories of clamp ons coming off or baffle strikes due to misaligning. My measurements and the machining to them were spot on, there were no baffle strikes, nor was there any slipping / creeping of the brake after 40 rounds, (20 165gr 2550 FPS & 110gr 2900 FPS "full" loads).

At 100 yards, my POI after brake installation was a full 4" higher and 2" right vs. pre brake installation on the .308, so a rezeroeing may be necessary, your results may vary. Once rezeroed, there was no adverse effect on accuracy at 100 through 400 yards.

Recoil reduction was noticeable, from sitting at the bench the .308 felt more like a .223. In a proper prone position behind the rifle and loading the bipod, impacts were easily viewed through the optic, with some (as to be expected) but little rifle hop. Dust signature was also greatly decreased. Muzzle flip in offhand position and in all positions was greatly reduced. Follow up shots in all positions were easier to accomplish.

Of course noise at the firing position was increased as with any brake. After my initial range trial, my shoulder felt as if I didn't shoot at all. I don't know how the brake will hold after several hundred shots, if there is a situation with that I will update the review, but after 40 rounds it is holding strong. It appears powder residue will be somewhat easy to clean out as the ports / baffles are easy to get at and there are no real sharp angles for residue to accumulate and be hard to remove.

After a hundred or so rounds downrange with the .308, no creeping off of the brake, or any other problems. Same goes for the .243 installation, a view of the brake on a heavy barrel profile (still needs to be finished):

IMO, the brake is well worth the price, as it's meeting & exceeding form, fit, and function for the price for budget builds considering adding threading costs when using the clamp on style.

I can only assume the thread-on brakes produce the same results, and probably have a better look when it comes to transitioning from the brake to barrel contour.

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