Today is the day I'll get to zero in my Savage 10fcp with the Nightforce Scope. I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to? (168gr and 175gr factory loads until I get this Hornady reload kit set up.)
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Zero Distance for 308
- Thread starter OldmaninNeb
- Start date
Re: Zero Distance for 308
100 yards good to go, if you want have impact about 2 inches high and than you should hit center at 200 yards if you are comfortable to do so. Thats what I do after I get use to a new rig.
100 yards good to go, if you want have impact about 2 inches high and than you should hit center at 200 yards if you are comfortable to do so. Thats what I do after I get use to a new rig.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
Looks like I'm in the minority... I use a 200 yard zero for my .308. While I haven't been to the range enough lately, one of the stages that our club uses requires holdover/holdunder for targets from "kinda close" to 500 meters. The 200 yard zero works better for me in this, and it costs me nothing with anything else.
-dave
Looks like I'm in the minority... I use a 200 yard zero for my .308. While I haven't been to the range enough lately, one of the stages that our club uses requires holdover/holdunder for targets from "kinda close" to 500 meters. The 200 yard zero works better for me in this, and it costs me nothing with anything else.
-dave
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I come from a hunting background which explains why I usually zero at 200. A lot of times at least where I live and hunt you dont want to or have time to dial elevation, its load and go. I have my 204 zeroed at 220 for this specific purpose, pretty much point and shoot on varmits to 300ish, then you gotta start worrying about holds or dialing in. Unless your in love with zeroing at 100, zero it at 200 and increase your max point blank range or whatever they call it.
I come from a hunting background which explains why I usually zero at 200. A lot of times at least where I live and hunt you dont want to or have time to dial elevation, its load and go. I have my 204 zeroed at 220 for this specific purpose, pretty much point and shoot on varmits to 300ish, then you gotta start worrying about holds or dialing in. Unless your in love with zeroing at 100, zero it at 200 and increase your max point blank range or whatever they call it.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I zero my guns at 100m that is great if you have time to dial in your D.O.P.E. when you are shooting at distance. The other option you have is to zero at 300m or so and learn your holdovers. Whatever works best for you.
I zero my guns at 100m that is great if you have time to dial in your D.O.P.E. when you are shooting at distance. The other option you have is to zero at 300m or so and learn your holdovers. Whatever works best for you.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I have my Remington 40XB zeroed at 300 yards, its a long range SWS, and i shoot long range - so why not have it zeroed at least to a third of the range i shoot? Anyway i was always instructed to keep my patrol zero at 300 yards.
I have my hold under for 50 to 250 yards and clicks for these too, all the way up to 1,100 yards.
Start by bore sighting the rifle and then get youself "on" for 100 yards, then record your info from here, its always up to the individual shooter and caliber of rifle, i mean if you have a .300 Win Mag and you shoot the tonne (1,000 yards) a lot, why have a zero for 100? you will only have to constantly crank your turrets all the way up - and back down.
It makes sense to me to have a zero closer to my rifle and my own capability!
Dont forget to wear in your bore too!
Hope i was of some help.
I have my Remington 40XB zeroed at 300 yards, its a long range SWS, and i shoot long range - so why not have it zeroed at least to a third of the range i shoot? Anyway i was always instructed to keep my patrol zero at 300 yards.
I have my hold under for 50 to 250 yards and clicks for these too, all the way up to 1,100 yards.
Start by bore sighting the rifle and then get youself "on" for 100 yards, then record your info from here, its always up to the individual shooter and caliber of rifle, i mean if you have a .300 Win Mag and you shoot the tonne (1,000 yards) a lot, why have a zero for 100? you will only have to constantly crank your turrets all the way up - and back down.
It makes sense to me to have a zero closer to my rifle and my own capability!
Dont forget to wear in your bore too!
Hope i was of some help.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I zero for 1000 and use come DOWNS!
Just kiddig of course
100 yds!
I zero for 1000 and use come DOWNS!
Just kiddig of course
100 yds!
Re: Zero Distance for 308
Zero at 100 yards and everything you will need to dial will be up. No getting confused about having to dial below the zero mark. And if you don't think it will happen then you haven't been shooting long enough.
Also if your scope doesn't have a zero stop, once zeroed count the number of MOA or mils to the dead bottom of your elevation so that if you get lost you can go to dead bottom and then go up that amount of MOA to your 100 yard zero. This will help you from being a turn off and again it will happen.
Zero at 100 yards and everything you will need to dial will be up. No getting confused about having to dial below the zero mark. And if you don't think it will happen then you haven't been shooting long enough.
Also if your scope doesn't have a zero stop, once zeroed count the number of MOA or mils to the dead bottom of your elevation so that if you get lost you can go to dead bottom and then go up that amount of MOA to your 100 yard zero. This will help you from being a turn off and again it will happen.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I zero mine at 150, set the zero stop there, and use the mil dots for anything closer. But almost ALL of my shooting is done between 150 and 430 yards.
I zero mine at 150, set the zero stop there, and use the mil dots for anything closer. But almost ALL of my shooting is done between 150 and 430 yards.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
My (target) 308 consist of a M1A Super Match. I normally shoot it at 200, 300, 600, and 1000 yards, so I have zeros for 200, 300, 600, & 1000 yards.
For some yard lines I have two zeros, Like 200 yards, I have zeros for Off Hand and Setting Rapid. An I had, (when I shoot for the National Guard) differant zeros at differant yard lines for rapid fire and slow fire for shooting rapid fire at 600 500 300 & 200 for shooting the Rattle Battle. (which is a bit differant then shooting slow fire at the same ranges.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
Now I know everyone is gonna chim in with "COME UPS" and such but the OP said 750, you want to shoot 750 yards its best to have a zero at 750 yards. Yeah a "come up list" as in a ballistic chart will get you close, but a zero will get you on target.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
My (target) 308 consist of a M1A Super Match. I normally shoot it at 200, 300, 600, and 1000 yards, so I have zeros for 200, 300, 600, & 1000 yards.
For some yard lines I have two zeros, Like 200 yards, I have zeros for Off Hand and Setting Rapid. An I had, (when I shoot for the National Guard) differant zeros at differant yard lines for rapid fire and slow fire for shooting rapid fire at 600 500 300 & 200 for shooting the Rattle Battle. (which is a bit differant then shooting slow fire at the same ranges.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
Now I know everyone is gonna chim in with "COME UPS" and such but the OP said 750, you want to shoot 750 yards its best to have a zero at 750 yards. Yeah a "come up list" as in a ballistic chart will get you close, but a zero will get you on target.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
Have a 100 zero for chronoing and group testing loads. Set the real zero on your 308 for 300yds, then its 28 clicks to 500 and another 14 to 600. Past 700 the 308 starts to falter and the wind and gravity starts to play havoc with the short fat bullet. 100yd shooting is fun, and it is a good feeling to get that 1 hole group, but a 308 is wasted at that distance, real fun starts at 300 when you have to think about wind. Try getting that 0.5 moa group at 3,5 and 600 and then see how good you really are.
Have a 100 zero for chronoing and group testing loads. Set the real zero on your 308 for 300yds, then its 28 clicks to 500 and another 14 to 600. Past 700 the 308 starts to falter and the wind and gravity starts to play havoc with the short fat bullet. 100yd shooting is fun, and it is a good feeling to get that 1 hole group, but a 308 is wasted at that distance, real fun starts at 300 when you have to think about wind. Try getting that 0.5 moa group at 3,5 and 600 and then see how good you really are.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rob01</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Zero at 100 yards and everything you will need to dial will be up. No getting confused about having to dial below the zero mark. And if you don't think it will happen then you haven't been shooting long enough.
Also if your scope doesn't have a zero stop, once zeroed count the number of MOA or mils to the dead bottom of your elevation so that if you get lost you can go to dead bottom and then go up that amount of MOA to your 100 yard zero. This will help you from being a turn off and again it will happen. </div></div>
Ha! Happened to me and I got kicked out of a match.
Go ahead and laugh.
Big time newbie mistake I made - posting this to maybe help others not to do the same thing.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rob01</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Zero at 100 yards and everything you will need to dial will be up. No getting confused about having to dial below the zero mark. And if you don't think it will happen then you haven't been shooting long enough.
Also if your scope doesn't have a zero stop, once zeroed count the number of MOA or mils to the dead bottom of your elevation so that if you get lost you can go to dead bottom and then go up that amount of MOA to your 100 yard zero. This will help you from being a turn off and again it will happen. </div></div>
Ha! Happened to me and I got kicked out of a match.
Go ahead and laugh.
Big time newbie mistake I made - posting this to maybe help others not to do the same thing.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I have always set my zeros at 100 yards on all of my weapons... just because I didn't want to walk to the 200 yard targets!! LOL!! Yeah, I am just kiddin.
100 yard zeros for me!!
DK
I have always set my zeros at 100 yards on all of my weapons... just because I didn't want to walk to the 200 yard targets!! LOL!! Yeah, I am just kiddin.
100 yard zeros for me!!
DK
Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
My (target) 308 consist of a M1A Super Match. I normally shoot it at 200, 300, 600, and 1000 yards, so I have zeros for 200, 300, 600, & 1000 yards.
For some yard lines I have two zeros, Like 200 yards, I have zeros for Off Hand and Setting Rapid. An I had, (when I shoot for the National Guard) differant zeros at differant yard lines for rapid fire and slow fire for shooting rapid fire at 600 500 300 & 200 for shooting the Rattle Battle. (which is a bit differant then shooting slow fire at the same ranges.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
Now I know everyone is gonna chim in with "COME UPS" and such but the OP said 750, you want to shoot 750 yards its best to have a zero at 750 yards. Yeah a "come up list" as in a ballistic chart will get you close, but a zero will get you on target.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle. </div></div>
Doesn't matter what you "zero" the weapon at - if you are adjusting from your "zero" to hit at 750yds, you are "re-zeroing" your weapon for a 750yd "zero', right?
When you are using COME UPS, you are essentially "re-zeroing" your weapon based on your <span style="font-weight: bold">D</span>ata <span style="font-weight: bold">O</span>n <span style="font-weight: bold">P</span>revious <span style="font-weight: bold">E</span>ngagement, or <span style="font-weight: bold">DOPE</span>.
Try not to get hung up on what your weapon is zeroed at. Think about what ranges you are realistically going to engage targets with your weapon system and take it from there.......
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
My (target) 308 consist of a M1A Super Match. I normally shoot it at 200, 300, 600, and 1000 yards, so I have zeros for 200, 300, 600, & 1000 yards.
For some yard lines I have two zeros, Like 200 yards, I have zeros for Off Hand and Setting Rapid. An I had, (when I shoot for the National Guard) differant zeros at differant yard lines for rapid fire and slow fire for shooting rapid fire at 600 500 300 & 200 for shooting the Rattle Battle. (which is a bit differant then shooting slow fire at the same ranges.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
Now I know everyone is gonna chim in with "COME UPS" and such but the OP said 750, you want to shoot 750 yards its best to have a zero at 750 yards. Yeah a "come up list" as in a ballistic chart will get you close, but a zero will get you on target.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle. </div></div>
Doesn't matter what you "zero" the weapon at - if you are adjusting from your "zero" to hit at 750yds, you are "re-zeroing" your weapon for a 750yd "zero', right?
When you are using COME UPS, you are essentially "re-zeroing" your weapon based on your <span style="font-weight: bold">D</span>ata <span style="font-weight: bold">O</span>n <span style="font-weight: bold">P</span>revious <span style="font-weight: bold">E</span>ngagement, or <span style="font-weight: bold">DOPE</span>.
Try not to get hung up on what your weapon is zeroed at. Think about what ranges you are realistically going to engage targets with your weapon system and take it from there.......
Re: Zero Distance for 308
for those with the cheap seats it will have to be stated again..
ONE HUNDRED YARDS!
for those with the cheap seats it will have to be stated again..
ONE HUNDRED YARDS!
Re: Zero Distance for 308
If you want to go to 750, why not zero at 250 and dial down as necessary? Go with 200 and reduce your up DOPE!
If you want to go to 750, why not zero at 250 and dial down as necessary? Go with 200 and reduce your up DOPE!
Re: Zero Distance for 308
We always did our basic check at 100m and then sighted in our FN. FAL's at 300m
At 100m not all bullets have truely settled in and small errors in windage can be overlooked etc. On the other hand, unless it is a dead calm day, the wind will affect your basic 300m Zero more than you think!
Since our lowest sight setting on the F.N was 200m I was never sure why we ALWAYS had to zero at 300...except that it did seem to work - if the rifle was spot on at 300 you could use the 200m setting with confidence on anything under 250m and go up to the 500m setting without undue worry...( not that I ever encountered a combabt situation with ranges over 100m in Africa...)
We always did our basic check at 100m and then sighted in our FN. FAL's at 300m
At 100m not all bullets have truely settled in and small errors in windage can be overlooked etc. On the other hand, unless it is a dead calm day, the wind will affect your basic 300m Zero more than you think!
Since our lowest sight setting on the F.N was 200m I was never sure why we ALWAYS had to zero at 300...except that it did seem to work - if the rifle was spot on at 300 you could use the 200m setting with confidence on anything under 250m and go up to the 500m setting without undue worry...( not that I ever encountered a combabt situation with ranges over 100m in Africa...)
Re: Zero Distance for 308
Whew! Lotta opinions. I originally posted this without mentioning that the scope is NF 12-42x56 which only has 46 moa adjustment and was worrying a little about running out. I zero'd @ 100 yds and discovered how easy it is to 'range' with mil-dots, then drove to different parts of the pasture, ranged and adjusted the scope and was able to hit 1st shot out to 440 yards. I'll have to wait, as the range is now full of cattle , but I feel confident the scope should be able to handle out to 750 yds. My hunting rifles are zero'd @ 200 yds as mentioned above simply because 10-300 yds is crosshair territory but target shooting different distances is downright fun. I enjoy all the insight and info posted here.
Whew! Lotta opinions. I originally posted this without mentioning that the scope is NF 12-42x56 which only has 46 moa adjustment and was worrying a little about running out. I zero'd @ 100 yds and discovered how easy it is to 'range' with mil-dots, then drove to different parts of the pasture, ranged and adjusted the scope and was able to hit 1st shot out to 440 yards. I'll have to wait, as the range is now full of cattle , but I feel confident the scope should be able to handle out to 750 yds. My hunting rifles are zero'd @ 200 yds as mentioned above simply because 10-300 yds is crosshair territory but target shooting different distances is downright fun. I enjoy all the insight and info posted here.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
Im going to put a 200 yard zero on my rifle. Its a play toy for me and Im only really going to be shooting it in our little matches we have and our closest shot there is 200 yards. So I dont see the need to have a 100 yard zero. Even running loads over the chrono its not going to make a real difference as long as you look to make sure that you are going to be shooting thru the wickets.
Im going to put a 200 yard zero on my rifle. Its a play toy for me and Im only really going to be shooting it in our little matches we have and our closest shot there is 200 yards. So I dont see the need to have a 100 yard zero. Even running loads over the chrono its not going to make a real difference as long as you look to make sure that you are going to be shooting thru the wickets.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle.</div></div>
Intersting point KraigNY but I choose a 100yd Zero as
a) It is easier to find a range with a 100yd line
b) I believe that the longer distance you zero to, the more the possible effects of wind come into play and, in most places I have been, it is rare to find a completely wind-free day. At least at 100yds the flight time and effects of wind are relatively small - therefore IMHO the 100yd Zero is a more reliable and accurate starting point.
c) Surely "come-ups" are effectively re-zeroing your rifle for the range/distance? I'm not talking about widley published ballistic cards (I've found those to be at best only vaguely accurate). I mean adjusting your scope, shooting and recording accurately the setting that best corresponds to the necessary elevations (this data can be expanded to compensate for the effect of altitude/temperature and wind).
d) If you are shooting competitions where you are not allowed to use come-ups, buy a scope with a suitable reticle (i.e mildot or MOA), zero at your preferred or most frequently used distance and learn hold-overs and hold-unders. But, to my way of thinking, this is more of a "hunting" or "battle" zero than an LR or precision rifle zero.....
Just my £0.02....not meaning to tread on toes!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to?</div></div>
Am I missing something here??? You are looking for a zero to hit a target at 750 yards.
Um, wouldn't you want a 750 yard zero to shoot 750 yards.
So, my question is, if you want to hit targets at 750 yards, why would you zero your rifle at 100 yards, or any other yard line.
I never seen a law that says you can only have one zero on a rifle.</div></div>
Intersting point KraigNY but I choose a 100yd Zero as
a) It is easier to find a range with a 100yd line
b) I believe that the longer distance you zero to, the more the possible effects of wind come into play and, in most places I have been, it is rare to find a completely wind-free day. At least at 100yds the flight time and effects of wind are relatively small - therefore IMHO the 100yd Zero is a more reliable and accurate starting point.
c) Surely "come-ups" are effectively re-zeroing your rifle for the range/distance? I'm not talking about widley published ballistic cards (I've found those to be at best only vaguely accurate). I mean adjusting your scope, shooting and recording accurately the setting that best corresponds to the necessary elevations (this data can be expanded to compensate for the effect of altitude/temperature and wind).
d) If you are shooting competitions where you are not allowed to use come-ups, buy a scope with a suitable reticle (i.e mildot or MOA), zero at your preferred or most frequently used distance and learn hold-overs and hold-unders. But, to my way of thinking, this is more of a "hunting" or "battle" zero than an LR or precision rifle zero.....
Just my £0.02....not meaning to tread on toes!
Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
When you are using COME UPS, you are essentially "re-zeroing" your weapon based on your <span style="font-weight: bold">D</span>ata <span style="font-weight: bold">O</span>n <span style="font-weight: bold">P</span>revious <span style="font-weight: bold">E</span>ngagement, or <span style="font-weight: bold">DOPE</span>. </div></div>
Dope - This is the windage and elevation correction that a shooter will dial onto his sighting system in order to hit the target with his shots. It does NOT stand for Data On Personal Equipment, Data On Previous Engagement or any other acronym. Dope is an English word that means to figure out; calculate or devise.
Zero for 100 and drive on. There are good reasons for zeroing at a different range, but for most a 100 yard zero will get you where you need to be. AFTER you have some experience shooting you can better determine if a different zero range will suit you.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Chris McLoughlin</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
When you are using COME UPS, you are essentially "re-zeroing" your weapon based on your <span style="font-weight: bold">D</span>ata <span style="font-weight: bold">O</span>n <span style="font-weight: bold">P</span>revious <span style="font-weight: bold">E</span>ngagement, or <span style="font-weight: bold">DOPE</span>. </div></div>
Dope - This is the windage and elevation correction that a shooter will dial onto his sighting system in order to hit the target with his shots. It does NOT stand for Data On Personal Equipment, Data On Previous Engagement or any other acronym. Dope is an English word that means to figure out; calculate or devise.
Zero for 100 and drive on. There are good reasons for zeroing at a different range, but for most a 100 yard zero will get you where you need to be. AFTER you have some experience shooting you can better determine if a different zero range will suit you.
G
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Re: Zero Distance for 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: popgunz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Today is the day I'll get to zero in my Savage 10fcp with the Nightforce Scope. I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to? (168gr and 175gr factory loads until I get this Hornady reload kit set up.) </div></div>
Most folks run a 100yd zero an dial up, for alot of reasons. Then there are others that do things differently for other reasons. It depends on what your after as a end result. The target, target size, hit or miss, or scoreing rings, your retical, your round, an the A/O, all play a part in how fast you want to engage the target.
I've USO's w/MDMOA reticals which give me 20 IPHY up from the ctr an 40 down for a total of 60 IPHY of use without touching the 1/2" EREK knob. If I zero at the crt cross at 100yds I loose the top 20 99.99% of the time. But should I 100 yd zero at 15 up(.308win )that puts my crt cross set for 600 yds without touching anything. Plus I've much up, still left before touching the EREK. Now on the 300wm 20 up gets me 800yds and at the cross I'm set for 1240.
There are many different ways to zero, it just depends on what the task is. A target shooter mostly sets theirs at 100 as do most LEO's. Old military shooters differ somewhat depending on training, past equipment, an A/O's worked.
Then there is a combo of all of the above that uses what works the best for them. Try out everything, an go with the one, <span style="font-weight: bold">You </span>, like the best for your target an style of shooting.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: popgunz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Today is the day I'll get to zero in my Savage 10fcp with the Nightforce Scope. I'm hoping to be able to hit reliably to 750 yards. What distance would you zero to? (168gr and 175gr factory loads until I get this Hornady reload kit set up.) </div></div>
Most folks run a 100yd zero an dial up, for alot of reasons. Then there are others that do things differently for other reasons. It depends on what your after as a end result. The target, target size, hit or miss, or scoreing rings, your retical, your round, an the A/O, all play a part in how fast you want to engage the target.
I've USO's w/MDMOA reticals which give me 20 IPHY up from the ctr an 40 down for a total of 60 IPHY of use without touching the 1/2" EREK knob. If I zero at the crt cross at 100yds I loose the top 20 99.99% of the time. But should I 100 yd zero at 15 up(.308win )that puts my crt cross set for 600 yds without touching anything. Plus I've much up, still left before touching the EREK. Now on the 300wm 20 up gets me 800yds and at the cross I'm set for 1240.
There are many different ways to zero, it just depends on what the task is. A target shooter mostly sets theirs at 100 as do most LEO's. Old military shooters differ somewhat depending on training, past equipment, an A/O's worked.
Then there is a combo of all of the above that uses what works the best for them. Try out everything, an go with the one, <span style="font-weight: bold">You </span>, like the best for your target an style of shooting.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
id use max point blank range. like somewhere around 260 for me. im any case yer gonna need to work out yer dope. i use jlm site to figure it thatll get you close then shoot to verify.
id use max point blank range. like somewhere around 260 for me. im any case yer gonna need to work out yer dope. i use jlm site to figure it thatll get you close then shoot to verify.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
I prefer a 200 yrd zero. Because we have a great 200 yrd range I rarely if ever shoot 100 except setting up other rifles.
I prefer a 200 yrd zero. Because we have a great 200 yrd range I rarely if ever shoot 100 except setting up other rifles.
Re: Zero Distance for 308
we have the fcp in .308,hope yours shoots as well as ours it is the sole reason that we parted with a high end custom build that could not hang with the fcp.i dont know if this will help you or not but at 100 yards +11''= 0 at 550 yds for our fcp with handloads of approx 2900 fps,155 gr nosler customs
we have the fcp in .308,hope yours shoots as well as ours it is the sole reason that we parted with a high end custom build that could not hang with the fcp.i dont know if this will help you or not but at 100 yards +11''= 0 at 550 yds for our fcp with handloads of approx 2900 fps,155 gr nosler customs
