What's the recommended zeroing range for 6.5 PRC? 26" Barrel RugerHawkeye long-distance.
100 yards? 200 yards" etc...
100 yards? 200 yards" etc...
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Zeroing Range
- Thread starter Pge
- Start date
I always favor a 100 yards zero as a baseline because of less environmental shift. This depends however on scope limitation, mission specific task etc. some hunting reticles for example are setup for 200 yard zero. Sometimes to get more distance for reticle or dial a 200 could be preferred.
always 100 yards, unless you have some scope that requires a different range.
Any modern scope with target or tactical turrets should be at 100
Any modern scope with target or tactical turrets should be at 100
I've seen some sighting techy guys talk of 200 yards for the 6.5 PRC, maybe due to the long range horsepower, and they like me, have a 20 MOA scope mount on the rifle.
So I didn't know if that affects the usable cross hairs alignment for the longer shots.
But I can see that using a 200 yard zero means everything on the scope is now going to have NO holdover, I'll be having to aim below if i want to be accurate on target.
Then if I have my scope zeroed at that point with it quick zero stop on elevation, I don't have any downward clicks to compensate. So I.d have to hold visually UNDER on practically everything less than 200 yards.... However, with a 100 yard zero, everything after that has holdover or dial up. Am i missing anything?
This is an MRAD Nikon FX1000 6x 24x 50mm scope.
If this were a ballistic compensator scope, then yes, all of those are built around a 100 yard zero. At least all of them that I have seen or used in the recent past.
So does this being an MRAD scope on a long range rifle, change any suggestions?
I appreciate your input!
Thanks guys!
So I didn't know if that affects the usable cross hairs alignment for the longer shots.
But I can see that using a 200 yard zero means everything on the scope is now going to have NO holdover, I'll be having to aim below if i want to be accurate on target.
Then if I have my scope zeroed at that point with it quick zero stop on elevation, I don't have any downward clicks to compensate. So I.d have to hold visually UNDER on practically everything less than 200 yards.... However, with a 100 yard zero, everything after that has holdover or dial up. Am i missing anything?
This is an MRAD Nikon FX1000 6x 24x 50mm scope.
If this were a ballistic compensator scope, then yes, all of those are built around a 100 yard zero. At least all of them that I have seen or used in the recent past.
So does this being an MRAD scope on a long range rifle, change any suggestions?
I appreciate your input!
Thanks guys!
Just to be that guy, I agree that target rifles should be zeroed at 100 yards.
My hunting rifles, however, are all zeroed at 200. That way I can shoot from zero to 250 without adjustment to the scope. Beyond 250 I range and dial.
Now the hard part: So I do not need to remember which rifle is zeroed at what range I zero all rifles at 200 including target rifles.
My hunting rifles, however, are all zeroed at 200. That way I can shoot from zero to 250 without adjustment to the scope. Beyond 250 I range and dial.
Now the hard part: So I do not need to remember which rifle is zeroed at what range I zero all rifles at 200 including target rifles.
Those "sighting techy guys" sound like they don't have a fucking clue what they are doing.
Always zero at a 100 yards when you can.
Hello Hawk,
That's exactly my thinking for hunting. That gives a nice long MPBR..! Point and shoot.
If I'm competing, then I wouldn't use the Zero Stop for that.
Makes sense!
Thanks!
That's exactly my thinking for hunting. That gives a nice long MPBR..! Point and shoot.
If I'm competing, then I wouldn't use the Zero Stop for that.
Makes sense!
Thanks!
This is a SILLY argument for 200 yards, it's dumb on so many levels.
You can dial in any range, holdover, etc based on your exact range to target, from 100. Everything is UP from 100, including shots inside 100.
This mindset is 100 years old, why not join the modern world and KNOW your scope, understand your shooting and centralize your methodology to something that is exact vs a guess. You all are the problem.
There is reason hunters have the reputations for sucking that they have, this is problem number one, break the cycle and do it right.
If I am set up in a specific location, I can dial that range to my target, you can still have (a) 200 yards zero, dial your 200-yard dope and forgo the errors associated to zeroing at distance. You can simply show up and dial on .4 or whatever your 200 yards zero is, and BOOM I have a 200 yard zero. But if you actually look at your dope, I would guess you want to range the animal for the most ethical shot possible vs a bullshit hold over guess. If the animal is 328 yards, you can dial that on or hold it.
Know your dope, you can easily memorize
200 - .4
300 - .8
400 - 1.6
And hold it. I get Hunters in my PR Classes all the time, most say they took the class because they missed at a ridiculously close range so they take a class, learn their equipment and hit shit beyond 300, 400 yards right after. magic
The military figured this out, they even have rapid target engagement training. Speed is accomplished by holding an ACTUAL NUMBER for that range.
PRS Guys shoot 10 targets in 90 seconds, at multiple distances, at smaller targets you have time to dial it on, or if you freak out, hold it. But hold an actual number on the target vs guessing.
Hunters are a stubborn bunch who just want to repeat the same mistakes over and over. Get a scope with actual turrets, get a crossover scope that is designed to take advantage of the caliber vs something that can't dial past 800 yards, or short.
Wow, just wow,
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It's all application specific. Some hunting situations need nothing more than a reflex sight on the rifle.
Many many (most?) hunting problems can be solved with a simple duplex or #4 reticle and the scope zeroed for max PBR.
Others need a scope you can dial to .1 mils or hold to .2 on the reticle.
It depends on the game you hunt and the terrain you hunt in.
But you're right about knowledge. 99% of hunters out there have no fucking clue and couldn't articulate coherently why they do what they do optics-wise.
Many many (most?) hunting problems can be solved with a simple duplex or #4 reticle and the scope zeroed for max PBR.
Others need a scope you can dial to .1 mils or hold to .2 on the reticle.
It depends on the game you hunt and the terrain you hunt in.
But you're right about knowledge. 99% of hunters out there have no fucking clue and couldn't articulate coherently why they do what they do optics-wise.
^ I always use 100 yards.. for centerfire.
Hunting is the same as my match rifle.. I fire just a few rounds a year while hunting so I want it the same as above... I do NOT want some other system that I have not practiced.
Honestly you will realize that rounding 2/10s at most short range hunting distances and using even a simple .5 mil hashes is not big deal .. with longer range targets, you have time and you can dial.
always holds in the same direction, no hold unders
Always do as I practice for thousands of rounds yearly
ALWAYS makes it easy to see/remember correlation's --keeps shit simple... really important when the adrenaline is running..
Hunting is the same as my match rifle.. I fire just a few rounds a year while hunting so I want it the same as above... I do NOT want some other system that I have not practiced.
Honestly you will realize that rounding 2/10s at most short range hunting distances and using even a simple .5 mil hashes is not big deal .. with longer range targets, you have time and you can dial.
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this poster clearly wants to play crossover with his new rifle ...
moving the needle forward means education, more education means more effectiveness, more effectiveness means a better hunt.
sure a duplex works, I have called guys onto a 1000 yard target with a 3-9x duplex reticle in a scope that ran out of elevation after 400 yards, you can manage anything given half a clue, but why not make it easy, or at least work a bit smarter.
applications crossover, yes you can fudge just about any situation, but why, it's 2019, time to wake up and smell the coffee.
moving the needle forward means education, more education means more effectiveness, more effectiveness means a better hunt.
sure a duplex works, I have called guys onto a 1000 yard target with a 3-9x duplex reticle in a scope that ran out of elevation after 400 yards, you can manage anything given half a clue, but why not make it easy, or at least work a bit smarter.
applications crossover, yes you can fudge just about any situation, but why, it's 2019, time to wake up and smell the coffee.
Generic numbers but close enough, what do we think that the first gap is in the center of the reticle on all 4 sides, bet that is pretty close to right.
I disagree with @Lowlight partly on this one. I do agree with him on the OPs case just not for most hunters as the need just isnt there for these tactical scopes.
For a set it and forget it duplex scope in the SFP zeroed for 200 - 300 yards will cover most all hunting needs.
If the hunting and using a scope with exposed turrets that are meant to be dialed then sighting in at 100 yards is probably ideal. This is what I do if I am hunting with one of my FFP scopes. I usually dial in .5mil and just leave it there. Point and shoot solves most every hunting shot I encounter. The few that are further then I can and do dial to make my hits. I could dial every shot or hold a number even for the closer shots but the two inch on target error at most makes absolutely no difference.
For a set it and forget it duplex scope in the SFP zeroed for 200 - 300 yards will cover most all hunting needs.
If the hunting and using a scope with exposed turrets that are meant to be dialed then sighting in at 100 yards is probably ideal. This is what I do if I am hunting with one of my FFP scopes. I usually dial in .5mil and just leave it there. Point and shoot solves most every hunting shot I encounter. The few that are further then I can and do dial to make my hits. I could dial every shot or hold a number even for the closer shots but the two inch on target error at most makes absolutely no difference.
Zero at 200-300 and then hold a "little daylight over it's back" from 300 - 700 yards.
That's what I thought all fudd hunters do.
That's what I thought all fudd hunters do.
Why? I didn’t say anything disrespectful to the man. I just disagreed with one part of what he said. I think most guys are just fine with a 3x9 Leupold duplex scope zeroed at between 200-300 yards. He doesn’t. No big deal.
Hunting game is something I have lots of experience with. I hunt everything from rabbits, squirrels, dove, geese, ducks, deer, sheep, and more. Have all my life. I wouldn’t argue with him beyond that.
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Hello!
Thanx for the input! Really!
I enjoy the details, the dope and resulting pin point accuracy.
***My comment about not being able to dial down below the 200 yard zero was really only related to what is either a quirk with the newest Nikon FX1000 that has a HARD Zero Stop, or I'm not understanding their instructions. I haven't used that function yet but the instructions seem to indicate that when you spin the turret back to your "0"...it STOPS there. I'm going get into that tomorrow!
Thanks to all ... All good insights!
All good!!
I have a 243 that I use for calling yotes. 55gr blitzkings at 4000fps, zero is at 275yds, from 1yd to 340yds will be a hit on shoulder on a coyote. When you call them in, sometimes you dont get a chance to lrf them and dial/hold. All my other rifles are zeroed at 100yds, for reasons that lowlight mentioned.
Another thread where the poster had an idea and waited until someone co-signed it.
What should I do, 100, or 200?
100
100
100
100
100
200 (followed by retarded reasons)
Thanks, that was my thought as well on the 200!
What should I do, 100, or 200?
100
100
100
100
100
200 (followed by retarded reasons)
Thanks, that was my thought as well on the 200!
Why is this such an issue? Education was provided. If he chooses to follow a different path, who cares?
When I hunted with a duplex reticle I never thought to hold under for closer distances where trajectory was still rising because it's not needed. Hold mid shoulder and rip it, the deer is going to die.
I also never pushed the issue beyond max PBR which for most all common cartridges is in the 300 - 320 yard range. If I couldn't get within 250 - 300 yards guess what the deer lived to see another day.
NBFB
BTW, even with a scope capable of being easily dialed/equipped with reticle subtensions I would still set elevation for MPBR beforehand then hold shoulder and shoot in certain terrain situations.
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You'd be right most of the time.
I get funny looks when I tell people I use a sightron modified mil-dot for hunting. Zero'd at 200 it's within 2" to 280, 1 dot is 390 yards.
Rangefinder and about 15 seconds and I can nail anything under 500 with a bipod and sling.
I also burned the barrel out of that rifle running lots of rounds to get there. Most all fudds I run into don't know that barrels can ever wear out.
I just went through this, this year. I hunt on some friends land and the max range I could take a deer is just over 200 yards. I went and zeroed my rifle for 200 and then shot it at 100 yards. It was spot on at 200 and about an inch or so high at 100. The vital area on white tail is around 6 inches. I ended up getting three of them (My tag limit for rifle in Wisconsin). Anywhere from 212 yards (My buck) to 40 and 100 yards for the two does. Didn't make any turret adjustments. I did aim a little low at the 40 yard shot. In this instance, a 200 yard zero worked for me.
I know this thread is old, but it comes up on searches and I wanted to post in the event other newbies like myself are looking for this information.
I love reading this site. A lot of great information here.
A 100 yard zero would have worked just as well in this instance.
If a man has a scope that dials and is repeatable, then zero at 100 yards. If a man has a set it and forget it scope then max point blank range or a 200-300 yard zero is better than a 100 yard zero as holdovers are far less which makes them easier to judge and a hold under is usually not required. It’s really that simple.
This subject comes up from time to time but the answers remain pretty much constant.
If your scope has turrets that are readily adjustable, zero at 100 yards. Shoot it out to whatever distance you believe you should and make yourself a DOPE card that tells you how much to dial at each range.
If your scope has the turrets that require you to remove a cap and use a tool (dime? screwdriver?) to adjust the reticle, you decide what is an acceptable point blank zero. Zero to that best range. Now, back to square one and shoot it at other distances and make yourself a DOPE card that tells you how much you are going to be holding over.
I have and use both types of scopes.
My goto deer rifle is a 280 Ackley Improved with a Swarovski 3.5-18 scope that I have to remove turret caps to adjust using a dime. It is also a SFP, MOA based scope. I have that rifle zeroed at 272 yards. The bullet travels above the POA 3" at somewhere about 175 yards, passes through my POA at 272 yards and is 3" below the POA at something like 315 yards. The reticle has some other horizontal stadia lines in it. I made myself a replica of that reticle using a piece of 3x5 card. On that card I have the yardages marked on the left side at 3.5x. In the middle I have the yardages marked for 10x (because there is actually a 10 to dial to) and on the right side of the card are the yardages for 18x. I have that card laminated and it is taped to the rifle stock on the left side where I can read it easily by just rolling the rifle over. I generally leave it on 10 power and at the yardages I usually find deer, I just aim at them and kill them. Most of the time, there is not time to range, look at the DOPE card, adjust the magnification to match an exact yardage or decide to hold over or bracket some marks or whatever.
I have a similar setup on a 243 Ackley Improved that I like to kill coyotes with. For the most part, just aim right at the coyote and pull the trigger. I usually don't have much time at all to even get that done.
I have an old Bushnell 3x9 duplex scope on an old Browning Safari Grade 30-06 (my first rifle). I have a similar DOPE card for it but I don't want to tape it to the stock. That card shows ranges at 3x, 6x and 9x for an imaginary reticle stadia halfway to the point of the duplex, the point of the duplex and the spot where the duplex is full width.
I have other rifles with similar setups.
I have several other rifles with scopes that are readily dialed. NXS, NX8, SHV, X5i, Zeiss, others. I zero these at 100 yards and take the time to range (using the laser range finder) and dial for targets that are more stationary. Elk and bear fall into that category, generally.
So, the answer to the question, IMHO, is that it depends on a few things. I know, just a fudd.
If your scope has turrets that are readily adjustable, zero at 100 yards. Shoot it out to whatever distance you believe you should and make yourself a DOPE card that tells you how much to dial at each range.
If your scope has the turrets that require you to remove a cap and use a tool (dime? screwdriver?) to adjust the reticle, you decide what is an acceptable point blank zero. Zero to that best range. Now, back to square one and shoot it at other distances and make yourself a DOPE card that tells you how much you are going to be holding over.
I have and use both types of scopes.
My goto deer rifle is a 280 Ackley Improved with a Swarovski 3.5-18 scope that I have to remove turret caps to adjust using a dime. It is also a SFP, MOA based scope. I have that rifle zeroed at 272 yards. The bullet travels above the POA 3" at somewhere about 175 yards, passes through my POA at 272 yards and is 3" below the POA at something like 315 yards. The reticle has some other horizontal stadia lines in it. I made myself a replica of that reticle using a piece of 3x5 card. On that card I have the yardages marked on the left side at 3.5x. In the middle I have the yardages marked for 10x (because there is actually a 10 to dial to) and on the right side of the card are the yardages for 18x. I have that card laminated and it is taped to the rifle stock on the left side where I can read it easily by just rolling the rifle over. I generally leave it on 10 power and at the yardages I usually find deer, I just aim at them and kill them. Most of the time, there is not time to range, look at the DOPE card, adjust the magnification to match an exact yardage or decide to hold over or bracket some marks or whatever.
I have a similar setup on a 243 Ackley Improved that I like to kill coyotes with. For the most part, just aim right at the coyote and pull the trigger. I usually don't have much time at all to even get that done.
I have an old Bushnell 3x9 duplex scope on an old Browning Safari Grade 30-06 (my first rifle). I have a similar DOPE card for it but I don't want to tape it to the stock. That card shows ranges at 3x, 6x and 9x for an imaginary reticle stadia halfway to the point of the duplex, the point of the duplex and the spot where the duplex is full width.
I have other rifles with similar setups.
I have several other rifles with scopes that are readily dialed. NXS, NX8, SHV, X5i, Zeiss, others. I zero these at 100 yards and take the time to range (using the laser range finder) and dial for targets that are more stationary. Elk and bear fall into that category, generally.
So, the answer to the question, IMHO, is that it depends on a few things. I know, just a fudd.
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