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Redfield Scope Repair

Hey all. I picked up a new old stock Redfield Accurange for my M40 clone build, and am looking for recommendations on where to send it for servicing.

There’s a haze on the inside of the glass, so the scope would need a full teardown and rebuild.

The two places I’ve found that do this kind of work are Iron Sight Inc. and Vintage Gun Scopes. I plan to reach out to both, but would appreciate any recent feedback for their services.

SOLD Primal Rights CPS New out of box

I picked this up recently because I thought I was going to setup a 2nd reloading station, but it’s just not going to happen so it’s for sale.

Comes with everything including original packaging. Never primed once. Brand new, setup out of box but not used.

$565 Shipped. Call or text or PM me. 815-878-8255. Prefer PP F&F as payment.

I will ship it out the same day via UPS. Can expedite it if needed for extra $.

Sold to @Doveblaster

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SOLD 224 Valkyrie + Brass and Dies

For sale is a nice CZ 600 Alpha in .224 Valkyrie. Under 100 rounds fired. Scope, rings, bipod not included.

Also included:


Rifle has sold.

Redding 80387 Die Set with an additional Micrometer seating stem
100 New Starline Brass
50 Once fired Starline Brass

$100 for Brass and Dies.

Asking $440 shipped to your FFL (from an Individual)


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Accessories sold

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Reloading Equipment Final Price Drop-3x Lapua .223 Brass

Getting out of my brief stint in .223.

Watch out for scammers. I will not PM you first.

BRASS-

All brass purchased on Hide. Never got a chance to use it. Selling for what I purchased for or a bit cheaper:

372 pieces of Lapua 223 Match brass. 3x fired. Cleaned and sized by previous seller. $250 $240 $235 shipped.

SOLD-200 new Lapua 223 Match brass. $170 shipped.

BULLETS-SOLD

785 total Hornady 75gr ELDm. 1 unopened box, 2 unopened bags and 1 opened bag. $180 shipped.

DIES-SOLD

New-never used Redding 223 full-length busing die with titanium bushing. $80 shipped.

Forester Micro Seater die. Used to seat 40 rounds. Has some leftover sharpie tic marks. Otherwise close to new. $70 shipped.

TRAY-SOLD

Rhytec 300 round aluminum reloading tray with rubber feet. Never used. Extremely well made. Have one in .308 that works fantastic for me. $120 $110 $105 shipped.

All shipping to lower 48 only. PayPal Friends and Family or you pick up fees.

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SOLD Proof Research .223 Comp Contour Barrel for Terminus Zues QC

SPF-Proof Research Competition Contour pre fit for Terminus Zues QC. 15 rounds total on it. Some minor scratches (shown) so selling it for $425 shipped. Brake not included.

SOLD-MDT Poly 10 rnd mags

SOLD-Terminus Zues QC LH bolt

Shipping to lower 48 states only.

PayPal Friends and Family or you pick up fees.

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SOLD ZCO 527 MPCT2X. @Swoodhouse19

I have for sale a 5-27x56 Zero Compromise Optic. This scope has the 10 mil NLE turret with locking windage and the MPCT2X reticle. will have the turret tape you can mark for different distances. was mounted but never out of the house

ZCO 527 $3,850 shipped



Pm with question.


Might be open to trade for a 840 with same 2x ret or maybe the 840 ,527 with the 3x ret, scope needs to be in brand new condition. 10mil NLE maybe a 15mil the NLE is preferable


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Bullet jump on 5.56x45 when slammed into battery

I posted this in the 5.56 thread, but no one seemed interested in discussing it there. This is therefore a re-post.

Summary: bullets jump when slammed into battery in a semi-automatic action. I tried increasing "neck tension" and crimping. Increased neck tension did not stop the jump. Crimping did not stop the jump but seemed to limit how far it continued. We should expect some jump because a hard stop into battery works just like an inertial bullet puller. Is a crimp into a crimp groove necessary to limit this jump, or is neck tension on a bullet without a crimp groove sufficient? Crimp grooves can be detrimental to accuracy if they're formed by smashing the bullet (maybe not if cut on a Swiss lathe, but we like less costly bullets).

My die is setup with a bushing to size LC brass necks to .243" and then pull a carbide expander ball through them to leave an OD of .244". When I seat a bullet, the OD is .0246". This would be commonly referred to as two thou of "neck tension." The amount of tension also depends on how much of the deformation the brass undergoes when the bullet is inserted is plastic and how much is elastic. My brass was brand-new Winchester brand from Lake City, fired and resized only once by me. I haven't messed it up with improper annealing nor have I work-hardened the brass neck by resizing it many times. I'll refer to this two thou delta between sized and seated as two thou of neck tension with the understanding that there's a little more involved there.

Bullet Jump
With two thou of neck tension and no crimp holding the bullet, I measured the overall length and then let the action on the rifle strip it from the magazine and slam it into battery with the muzzle pointed down. I measured it again and saw the bullet had jumped 1 thou. The cartridges I'm using for these tests have no powder or primer. Because the rifle has a floating firing pin, I did not want to be trying to induce a slam fire. I'm not surprised the bullet jumped because when a semi-automatic action accelerates the cartridge toward the chamber and then abruptly stops when the breech closes, it works just like an inertial bullet pulling hammer hit against a hard surface. Newton's first law explains why the bullet, once accelerated, will continue in motion even if the brass is stopped. Friction in the brass case neck is the only thing stopping the bullet from continuing until it hits the lands, unless it is crimped. The friction was enough to allow the bullet to jump only one thou. However, I repeated chambering the same cartridge several times and the bullet continued to jump 1 or 1.5 thou each time.

Crimp Test
Next, I used a Redding micro-adjustable taper crimp die to crimp the case of a different cartridge in the bullet's crimp groove. I repeated the process of measuring the overall length, chambering the round with the full force of the action, and measuring how far the bullet jumped. With the crimp, the bullet still jumped a thou. However, when I repeatedly chambered the same cartridge, the bullet jumped a total of three thou and then stopped moving farther with subsequent chamberings. I suspect the edge of the crimp groove slid forward against the crimp, and that it would take more force to push the crimp open.

More Neck Tension
To get more neck tension, I first removed the carbide expander ball from the die. Now the brass would be .243" before seating the bullet and .246" after -- three thou of neck tension. I also selected a different brand brass, a Speer nickel-plated case, and after sizing it with the .243" bushing without expanding it and then seating a bullet, it measured .247". The Speer case's brass is thicker in the neck -- four thou of neck tension. I repeated the tests on uncrimped cartridges and found the bullets would still slide forward about a thou every time they were slammed into battery. The bullet in the Speer case continued to jump as far forward as eight thou with repeating chamberings.

Crimp + More Neck Tension
I resized cases and seated bullets with 3 and 4 thou neck tension, and this time I also crimped them. I repeated the tests. I found the bullets would jump a thou, and after repeated chamberings they had jumped about three thou. After that, they would not jump farther.

Conclusion
My results suggest to me that increased neck tension will not stop bullet jump. I don't have more bushings to test 5 or 6 thou or more of neck tension, but at some point seating the bullet is going to plastically deform the neck so that it is not actually holding the bullet under any additional spring tension than that which is achieved with a larger bushing.

My results suggest a crimp will not stop all bullet jump, but that a crimp into a crimp groove can limit bullet jump to some smaller distance within the groove provided the inertial force on the bullet does not overcome the crimp. Certainly, my hammer-style bullet puller will overcome the crimp.

Not all bullets have a crimp groove. Many more accurate bullets do not because pressed crimp grooves deform the bullet and result in poor mass concentricity and wobbly bullets. Perhaps crimp grooves cut into a solid bullet on a lathe do not create this problem. Certainly, bullets into which a crimp groove is smashed by a Factory Crimp Die do. For bullets without a crimp groove, it seems best practice not the crimp them and to be aware they can jump some when slammed into battery by a semi-automatic action. If they jump one thou, that doesn't seem to be a big problem to me.

If a bullet has a crimp groove, a taper crimp of the case mouth into the groove can help limit the distance of bullet jump from the cartridge being slammed into battery. However, unless the cartridge is expected to be repeatedly slammed into battery many times, it's not clear that any benefit is derived from the crimp since the crimp is not likely to prevent the 1 or 1.5 thou the bullet is likely to jump upon being chambered the first time, and any ability of the crimp to limit further jump upon additional chamberings won't matter after the cartridge is fired. It could matter more if the recoil spring rate was greater. The M249 uses a piston operated gas system with a greater reciprocating mass, fires from an open-bolt, and has a higher rate of fire that is expected to be sustained for longer. It is highly likely therefore that it has a higher recoil spring rate, and that the cartridge is accelerated to a higher velocity before it is stopped in battery.

Questions
  • Do bullets in 5.56x45 cartridges jump when chambered in your semi-automatic rifle? If so, how much?
  • How much delta is there between your sized and seated necks?
  • Do you crimp your cases when the bullet has a crimp groove? If so, taper or roll?
  • If you crimp your cases, why do you do so? Have you done any tests to verify that it is effective?

SOLD SOLD Silencerco glock 19 9mm threaded barrel

Shot a few mags through my Glock 19 with this, then got rid of the pistol, so don't need it anymore.

Threaded 1/2x28.

SOLD $125 shipped

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Accessories Audere/March dive board, MSW 20moa rail for Tikka TacA, Hornady 6ARC die

Trying to de-clutter so selling the small stuff I have laying around.

Audere mini dive board rail for their Levitas mounts (fits gen 1 March Shorty 1-10 mounts)
50 shipped

MGW 20 moa scope base for a Tikka Tac A1. No hardware but you can reuse your factory hardware or get a set from MGW.
70 shipped

Hornady 6ARC die
30 shipped

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New Shooter - 6.5 Creedmoor Load Development

I'm a new shooter and have been to the range three times so far.


Rifle Setup:


  • Howa 1500 in 6.5 Creedmoor
  • KRG Bravo chassis

First Range Trip:​


  • Fired 60 rounds of factory ammo, averaging about 1 MOA.
  • Later discovered that my muzzle brake was loose, so not sure how much that affected accuracy.

Second Range Trip (First Time Reloading):​


  • Loaded 40 rounds: 41.5gr H4350, 140gr Berger Hybrid, Lapua small primer brass, CCI 450 primers. My goal was to get to the 100-round mark.
  • Also loaded 60 rounds in .2gr increments from 40.0 to 42.2gr (5 shots each) to look for velocity nodes.
  • Found little definitive info on nodes, but my SDs were low (5-9), and ES was under 25.
  • Had multiple groups between .4 and .6 MOA.
  • All rounds were loaded to about 2.8” COAL, though there was some variation due to bullet inconsistencies.
  • Then, I started questioning whether speed nodes are just "fud lore."

Third Range Trip:​


  • Loaded everything at 41.6gr since that produced my best group previously.
  • Went to a 700-yard range to focus on reading wind, testing 4DOF accuracy, and evaluating the rifle’s performance at longer distances.

My Questions:​


  • My cases are now prepped, annealed, sized, and cleaned. Should I start testing seating depth?
  • Should I redo my ladder test now that the rifle has 260 rounds through it and the brass is twice-fired?
  • Or should I just go out and shoot more?

I'm mainly shooting for fun but plan to start hunting and maybe try a PRS match or two. Looking for advice from experienced long-range shooters on how to best use my components and improve.


Thanks!

SOLD SOLD 480 Berger 105gr 6mm

Took these old school Berger 6mms in trade. I was told these were hybrids, but I can't find a PN on the box to confirm. They look like them to me. I opened one box for bullet pictures. Looks like some tarnishing on some of the bullets. 80 pcs per box, 480 total.

SOLD
$22 a box shipped
$120 for all

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