I am wondering if anyone has seen this kind of pitting in your barrel, and what causes it? Shooting a gas gun I just picked up and it's really not printing groups that well.
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You are looking at a pic right after some KG polish, that's why it's so shiny. Getting very low MV as well.Porous steel. I'd almost be tempted to use some JB bore paste on that. If that doesn't straighten it up, it's cheap steel and can't be saved.
You'll have to decide at which point your time is worth more than a new barrel. I'd shoot it and see if it settles. But if by 200-250 rounds it hasn't, time to buy it's replacement. JMO.You are looking at a pic right after some KG polish, that's why it's so shiny. Getting very low MV as well.
I got it off the PX here. Seller said its a Bergara barrel. And it's on a mk12 clone. Seller said only 250 rounds through it. I put some 77 fgmm through it. No, this needs to be in precision land for me."Not printing groups that well"
Have you contacted the manufacturer/retailer for a potential warranty issue? Or is this an "as is" buy off the PX?
What ammo?
Russian steel case 55gr/plinking reloads vs Federal 69gr Gold Medal Match/finalized known accuracy load proven in multiple rifles.
What's the purpose of that rifle?
Fun/blasting vs. DMR/precision-ish.
If it doesn't measure up to the purpose standards you "need" it for, toss it and get another barrel, or relegate it to the "plinking rifle" category.
This isn't a castingPorous steel.
Yeah. Then definitely buy once/cry once with a White Oak Armory barrel or similar.I got it off the PX here. Seller said its a Bergara barrel. And it's on a mk12 clone. Seller said only 250 rounds through it. I put some 77 fgmm through it. No, this needs to be in precision land for me.
Needs to hold 1 MOA. Shooting 1.5 to 2 right now. And MV around 2500. Pretty low MV for an 18" barrel.Before we go down the rabbit hole:
(1) Define "printing groups well" Are we talking 2" and you expect 1"? 1" and you expect 0.25"
(2) For the crowd: how much can whatever 'that' is in the picture affect accuracy.
(3) What is "low" MV. What round and what load. Details man!
You should send him one of your barrels then an let him try it out. You're manufacturing and sales should take way off. I;m sure there's no possible way all those pits exist in that steel. Even the pictures must be wrong. Nobody ever makes bad steel.This isn't a casting
The odds that wrought bar stock would have that many inclusions are simply astronomically low.
99% sure those are corrosion pits. And before anyone says "but it's stainless", 416 will absolutely rust. Just not as quickly as carbon steels.
What are your qualifications to support your claims?You should send him one of your barrels then an let him try it out. You're manufacturing and sales should take way off. I;m sure there's no possible way all those pits exist in that steel. Even the pictures must be wrong. Nobody ever makes bad steel.
Right here. ^^^I am obviously not the metallurgist you are. I mean the pictures show pitted metal, but that can't possibly be the case because you've never seen it before and it's highly unlikely that it exists. But feel free to explain how 416 goes that south after 250 rounds. I'm all ears.You'll have to decide at which point your time is worth more than a new barrel. I'd shoot it and see if it settles. But if by 200-250 rounds it hasn't, time to buy it's replacement. JMO.
Corrosion doesn't care about round count. Time is the enemyRight here. ^^^I am obviously not the metallurgist you are. I mean the pictures show pitted metal, but that can't possibly be the case because you've never seen it before and it's highly unlikely that it exists. But feel free to explain how 416 goes that south after 250 rounds. I'm all ears.
Stainless will and does rust,the process can be helped along by using the improper (cheap steel) brush.Right here. ^^^I am obviously not the metallurgist you are. I mean the pictures show pitted metal, but that can't possibly be the case because you've never seen it before and it's highly unlikely that it exists. But feel free to explain how 416 goes that south after 250 rounds. I'm all ears.
I think he stated it was a Bergara.Would take carbon fouling QUITE some time to cause corrosion pitting that deep.
Im still wondering, WHAT BRAND BARREL is it? You never did answer that. I can likely tell you what company’s steel they use & if it’s US made or not.
The throat was caked with carbon, easy clean. But once I got through it there is a lot of cracking in the stele. So yeah..... I wouldn't call it mag dumb, but rather higher than stated round count.Have you tried any other ammo, perhaps FGMM 69gr or FGMM 73gr?
What's the throat look like? Looks pretty new or does it look like someone mag dumped the hell outta it?
Bergara is not known for producing good ar barrels. Do you mk12 right and order a Douglas barrel from CLE or WOAI got it off the PX here. Seller said its a Bergara barrel. And it's on a mk12 clone. Seller said only 250 rounds through it. I put some 77 fgmm through it. No, this needs to be in precision land for me.
I got it off the PX here. Seller said its a Bergara barrel. And it's on a mk12 clone. Seller said only 250 rounds through it. I put some 77 fgmm through it. No, this needs to be in precision land for me.
There's probably nothing wrong with it per se you are getting what you paid for. Muzzle velocity of 2600-2650 and 1-1.5MOA groups would be my guess?
If you want it to be "precision" then spend more money. White Oak are the cheapest ones that still perform fairly well MOA or better. Otherwise get a Douglas which is the spec.
The accuracy is ok, 1.5 moa being smallest groups, most about 2 moa. I would like to get it to 1moa. But the MV is way too low, 2500... that's with FGMM, the other stuff I'm shooting is hovering around 2550. Doubt it would stay transonic for long.There's probably nothing wrong with it per se you are getting what you paid for. Muzzle velocity of 2600-2650 and 1-1.5MOA groups would be my guess?
If you want it to be "precision" then spend more money. White Oak are the cheapest ones that still perform fairly well MOA or better. Otherwise get a Douglas which is the spec.
The accuracy is ok, 1.5 moa being smallest groups, most about 2 moa. I would like to get it to 1moa. But the MV is way too low, 2500... that's with FGMM, the other stuff I'm shooting is hovering around 2550. Doubt it would stay transonic for long.
I got a new barrel coming. PRI has been closed so looking for instructions to remove the hand guard.
It's the Gen1 carbon SPR handguard, the early one. Has some tiny nuts on it... ok, there's a joke in there somewhere. It's a little tricky as there is that top rail. I have to look at it closer. A friend did get me the PRI site that covers some of this.What handguard? The carbon fiber tube thingy is a lock ring at one end you just unscrew it with a spanner wrench or strap wrench or whatever.
The gas block just as the set screws, thankfully. Yes there's some tiny allen screws. Is the handguard attached to that top rail or are they both separate? If detached perhaps I don't have to monkey with it.Looks like its still a lock ring design but with a diff barrel nut than I remember
Is that gas block pinned on? When I had one it was a clamp I think. If it's pinned you'll have to bonk those out too.