New Tikka T3x - Bolt Issue

[ABL_ZA]

I have a new 6.5CM Tikka T3x in a MDT LSS XL Gen 2 Chassis.

The bolt is not particularly smooth and when I dry fire, opening the bolt is particularly difficult. I tried factory Hornady 143 ELD-X which is a bit easier to work the bolt closed and open.

Any suggestions or checks I can do?

 

[rustyinbend]

I'd want to take a shoulder measurement on the fired brass, and compare it against the shoulder on your sized brass. You need to verify you're bumping the shoulder back from the fired brass measurement. That would be first on my list.

 

[Mudflap621]

Check front action screw to make sure its not too long, contacting the bolt.

 

[rustyinbend]

Check front action screw to make sure its not too long, contacting the bolt.

Great suggestion ...

 

[wpeach1912]

My buddy bought a Tikka a few years ago that is really stiff to open the bolt when dry firing, but is much smoother when firing live Ammo. I think it’s something to do with the roughness of the cocking piece and there are other people that have had the same problem

 

[FisherT&C]

Grease the lugs and the cocking ramp.
I personally use shooter's gold. Mili-tec grease, shooter's choice and gray moly grease work also.

 

[ABL_ZA]

Check front action screw to make sure its not too long, contacting the bolt.

Thanks. I will get the rifle out again tomorrow. How easy will this be to see or do I need a borescope?

 

[Mudflap621]

Look down into action with flashlight or also check for scrapes on the bolt.

 

[Forrest]

Loosen both chassis screws a half a turn and try it. Front chassis screw might be a hair too long and hitting the bolt.

 

[Ensemble]

Did this fix the problem? I'm running into an issue where my bolt sticks when closing and opening it.

 

[HaydenLane]

I have two tikkas that are tough to open when dry-firing and fine with live ammo. No sign of contact from the action screw.

I have no idea what it is, but it seems to be a non-issue.

 

[pineoak]

Please keep us updated over time, would love to hear how it either resolves or continues and what fixes work/ don't.

Will help future people with the same issues as well.

 

[Ensemble]

I got a new 9.6 bolt to shoot 223 with my tikka (I have a switchlug to swap barrels). The new bolt travels very smoothly. I may end up simply replacing the bolt. Which sucks because they're like $360...

 

[vortexyz]

@Ensemble Where did you get the bolt for .223? I’ve been wanting to set mine up as a switch barrel, but finding a .223 bolt without cannibalizing a whole other rifle is a pain. Been hoping LRI would add them to the line up of tikka bolts, but they haven’t said anything about it yet.

Edit:just saw they have them on mgw again! I thought they were discontinued, but now my wife is gonna be pissed!

 

[308pirate]

Please keep us updated over time, would love to hear how it either resolves or continues and what fixes work/ don't.

Will help future people with the same issues as well.

I thought Tikkas were perfect

 

[PB&J.]

So recocking (lifting the bolt) after a dry fire is rough? What happens when you re-cock the bolt without dropping the firing pin? What about the bolt movement rear to front after recocking?

Did you use the MDT provided action screws? Can you see any funny witness marks on the bolt or in the action?

Have you disassembled the bolt and cycled it without firing pin and spring? If it cycles smoothly when stripped down, but roughly when complete it would help narrow down whether it is internal or external to the bolt.

 

[Ensemble]

So mine was fixed by looking at the head spacing. Barrel was a little too tight and that was what caused the binding. Backed off the threads just a fraction and boom, cycles freely now, no issues.

 

[pineoak]

Backed off the threads just a fraction and boom, cycles freely now, no issues.

"Boom" is not usually associated with positive results in this sport.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

I thought Tikkas were perfect

They are