Thinking of getting into the reloading game.

[USMC-03XX]

While I agree with your idea of starting with simple, uncomplicated, easy-to-use reloading equipment, and learning the basics, I must disagree with your guitar analogy...

Starting off learning to play on a very cheap guitar, with possibly wrong strings, crappy quality, out of adjustment action, etc... may just put a guy off wanting to learn to play guitar! Apples to oranges here... but spending good money on a shitty guitar is just wrong advice, in my opinion. There are lots of decent guitars available for a beginner...

So now, with reloading equipment, your cheap guitar idea might be expressed by saying, "buy a Lee turret press", as some consider Lee reloading equipment to be low quality. I've used it for years. I would call it the Sears Craftsman quality of turret press. Usable. Serviceable. Low priced. I used Craftsman tools for years as an A&P aviation mechanic and while they are not Snap-On, they work. I would recommend Lee reloading products the same way.

However... I do absolutely agree with buy the best you can afford, whether a guitar, mechanic's tools, or reloading stuff. Expensive is not ALWAYS better. Just higher priced.

I apologize if I seem to be contrary or whatever; I just like reasonably priced, usable items.

And while I'm at it, I will add what I think are the basic reloading items needed to get started:

-brass, for all calibers you want to reload. For bulk ammo, like .223/5.56/.45acp etc. I like picking up range brass. People who use public ranges often leave their brass. It's like leaving money laying on the ground. Pistol brass has never been an issue using 1x fired.
-primers/powder are in demand and will be the most difficult to buy. Buy in bulk whenever you find it. It won't be there by end of day, so buy what you can afford... today's ass-rape prices may look like a bargain next year or two years from now...
-bullets are still available. Buy in bulk (with the caveat that you have to find the right bullet/brass/primer/powder combo recipe that your gun likes... Then buy in bulk. Starting out, we all have to experiment with hand load recipes, but some common loads are "tried & true".
-brass tumbler & media
-brass trimmer. May not need this until you start reloading a piece of brass multiple times.
-good press. I like a turret press where you can mount multiple dies and not have to remove/adjust/reinstall multiple dies for every different step, every different caliber. This is why I recommend the Lee turret press. One die disc holds 4 dies. Easy-peasy quick-change discs allow you to switch calibers instantly.
-good dies for each caliber, (primer punch/full length re-size die, bullet seating die, crimping die).
-good quality, comfortable to use primer seater. I really like the Co-ax. I hate the Lee hand primer.
-powder measure. For pistol, I determined what charge of my favorite powder I wanted, then made a simple scoop from an old .45 case. For rifle cartridges, I like the Lee accurate powder thrower. Then I got a RCBS Chargemaster Lite and wondered how I ever lived without it. It's slow, but fun to use.
-beam type powder weight scale. Again, Lee.
-good little funnel for charging cases.
I'm sure I've left something out.

Former USArmy 67T/67U/contractor. Chinooks are the Cadillac of US Army helicopters, but I loved the Huey most.

Edit to add:
-reloading books/manuals are ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.

And again, while I'm at it... You can have a great deal of fun and save money using cast lead boolits, especially with bulk pistol loads, like .45acp. A lead melting/casting pot, and a good supply of lead are pretty easy to find. Soft lead is OK for a lot of stuff, like pistol cartridges, but higher pressure cartridges need harder lead. I need more education in this area, but I found a great deal on bulk cast lead .45acp boolits.

So... if you can go dig out all the lead from the local berm, you might consider recovering the lead & copper for re-use... Just an idea.

I can’t thank you enough and this isn’t my thread. This is exactly what I was looking for except I will only be reloading 308 556 45 and 9. I am definitely on a budget but am looking to reload to hopefully eventually be able to produce good quality match ammo for my 556 and 308 the pistol ammo will just be target ammo… my grandfather had everything under the sun no joke, he died when I was 5 and my father needed to buy a house… anyway I wish more than anything I could pick his brain or even ask where to get started and this and a few other comments definitely lined it out clearly

 

[javierortega72]

I have all lee presses(classic turret, loadmaster, app press), lee dies, lee powder measure (several varieties), digital scales, lee magnetic scale, extended drop for powder thru, made my own bullet and case feeder automated to work while I use supply. Long story short I'm happy with it. Loadmaster has issues I recommend the classic turret cause it runs smoother. If u can wait for the six packer I would get that one, based on the classic turret and runs smooth but accepts long range bullets. I reload for .308, 6.5 creedmoor, 5.56, 5.7x28, 7.62x39, 9mm, and 45acp. Loaded over 10,000 rounds in a 2 year period.

 

[rottenruger]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

Hadn't seen the Auto Trickler V3 before, interesting. Sold out, so I couldn't see it's cost, either. Will have to check it out.......

The RCBS Chargemaster 1500 is a good piece of equipment for a few hundred dollars. If you want to refine it just a tad, get a Dandy Trickler. You can see Eric Cortina's use of both on Eric's You Tube vids, if memory serves. He also has the upscale scales, he is a pro, you know. I use a simple, inexpensive Hornady Digital scale to check behind the Chargemaster sometimes. And I ALWAYS take a flashlight and check my loads after charging and before placing bullets, to avoid any squibs.

Sounds like you're set on your press.

Lee Resizing Lubricant is my favorite to keep things pressing smoothly. Just a bit on the neck and body, finger applied, and a tiny swish inside the neck with a Q-Tip.

A bit down the road, you might want to get the Giraud Case Trimmer for processing your brass. If you're a high volume shooter or perhaps a PRC shooter, the Giraud Annealer can keep your shells workable and consistent. Both work great!

Some small things, a stiff small brush to clean inside your necks before charging and pressing in bullets. Polishing is more a personal preference thing. A flash hole "file" to keep it cleaned out. A Primer pocket cleaner, one that can attach to a battery drill works great and fast, just don't over-do it and ream the pocket out. Some decent quality digital calipers for your measurements, Mitutoyo is good.

Reloading relaxes me, like cutting grass but wioth more attentiveness.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[Lone Star]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

I'm glad to hear you not say "I want to start reloading to save money." I never ends that way.
I have many decades of handloading with probably the least expensive equipment but with what I know and starting out as you I would buy, as many others have said, a Redding turret press and a set of turrets for each caliber, Hornady or Redding dies, a quality annealing machine, powder measures for each caliber/load installed of the turrets and a high quality electronic scale.
That should setup for excellent rifle calibers and low production of pistol calibers. If you want load lots of 45ACP I go for a Dillon progressive press complete with all automation accessories. On the other hand if you just want to learn basics before launching into a hobby that is pastime all itself just buy a Lee, Hornady, RCBS or Lyman single stage press & dies for a single caliber, beam scale and manual powder trickler. 3 to 4 hundred dollars would do it. Beyond that there is stuff for thousands. But really it diminishing returns for the mega dollars spent. The high precision bench rest shooters don't buy these press reloading equipments but thats another story..

 

[Jmon12]

No other pastime equals the pleasure and pure solitary reward of reloading for personal use or building a store of hot, reliable ammunition.
300 Win mag, for speed, shoulder dislocating kinetic energy and distance.
44 and 357 magnum, because that's why Vulcan gave us those exquisite S&W long barreled revolvers and Colt Pythons.
5.56 boat-tail noslers, with velocity exceeding an SR71 on full abs...for metal plate 600 yard plinking.

Yes, each has it's own musical thunder and delayed report. Well worth a late night in the shop by the woodstove, just punching them out, one at a time.

 

[Mudburner]

I can’t thank you enough and this isn’t my thread. This is exactly what I was looking for except I will only be reloading 308 556 45 and 9. I am definitely on a budget but am looking to reload to hopefully eventually be able to produce good quality match ammo for my 556 and 308 the pistol ammo will just be target ammo… my grandfather had everything under the sun no joke, he died when I was 5 and my father needed to buy a house… anyway I wish more than anything I could pick his brain or even ask where to get started and this and a few other comments definitely lined it out clearly

You're welcome. My pleasure.

 

[The4GunGuy]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

So as others have asked...What are you using this for? A single caliber like me or PRS competition? Multiple calibers (pistol, AR, centerfire rifle)? A lot will depend on that answer. For ME, I'm only loading one cartridge for competition (6mm BRA), and I'm loading for ACCURACY, so I don't use/need a revolving press setup. Now, let's talk about what I WISH I WOULD HAVE DONE.

Reloading Press: I LOVE the simple Forster Co-Ax Press that I bought and it serves me just fine. IMHO, it's the DIES that count, not necessarily the press, but that's just me. I'm not shooting F-Class here, I'm shooting PRS, so if I can make a hit on a 10" plate at 800 yds, that's good enough for me.

Annealing Machine: If you can afford an AMP THEN GET IT! If you can't, then go with an Annealeeze and love it. I tried others, but at the price ranges of these two it's gonna be one or the other...Don't start with the annealeeze if you can afford the AMP.

Powder Measurement: I did a video comparing my Autotrickler V3 with my Chargemaster Lite and the results were interesting. Again, if you can afford the AV3 then get it and be done. BUT, that little CML is a great little powder measurement device...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TawWi5US7I

Sizing Dies: I do full length sizing and use the Redding full length sizing die and it has been great...Again, for what I need it for.

Expander: 21st Century Shooting Inc. Standard Expander Die. Many guys are going back to sizing and expanding at the same time...But I DOUBLE mandrel my neck, so that won't work for me.

Bullet Seating Die: L.E Wilson Stainless Steel Bushing Full Length Die Set with Micrometer Top Bullet Seater and Case Gauge. Again, this works great for me and gives me sub-0.002" concentricity. Yes, you can spend $1,000 on the new slick bullet seating die from xyz company, but I'm not sure that 0.001" difference is worth the squeeze.

Primer Seater: Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Primer Seating Tool...Again, you can spend $800 on a primer seater if you want to, but this thing seats my primers consistently at 0.003" which is where I want them. All good.

Case Prep: FRANKFORD PLATINUM CASE PREP CENTER...Done. Simple, easy and quick.

Case Trimmer: Giraud Power Case Trimmer. Now, again, if you can't/don't want to afford this one, then get a less expensive trimmer with good reviews. I like this one because it's fast and VERY accurate.

Brass Tumbling: Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Brass Tumbler Kit 110 Volt. Simple, easy, and I don't like liquid cleaning tumblers.

Micrometer Calipers: GET MITUTOYO and be done with it. Get two or three so you don't go mad changing out the various comparators

Comparators: I started with the Sinclair, but went to the Short Action Customs and like them very much.

So much more that I'm forgetting. All I can say is that if you can afford certain things then buy the better versions. But some of this expensive stuff is JUST MARKETING, so don't get sucked in by it. Again, if you're talking F-Class then you probably want more quality items in certain areas. If you're looking at PRS, not so much. And if you're doing this for fun and/or hunting out to say 300 yards, then yeah, you can go a little cheaper in my opinion. Hope this all helps and good luck!

 

[USMC-03XX]

No other pastime equals the pleasure and pure solitary reward of reloading for personal use or building a store of hot, reliable ammunition.
300 Win mag, for speed, shoulder dislocating kinetic energy and distance.
44 and 357 magnum, because that's why Vulcan gave us those exquisite S&W long barreled revolvers and Colt Pythons.
5.56 boat-tail noslers, with velocity exceeding an SR71 on full abs...for metal plate 600 yard plinking.

Yes, each has it's own musical thunder and delayed report. Well worth a late night in the shop by the woodstove, just punching them out, one at a time.

Man this is fucking poetry…

 

[Gustav Jimny]

I started, and still am getting good results with my old Lee press, balance scale, powder dispenser.
Eventually bought a Lyman Gen 5 auto loader thingy.
Started with second hand Lee dies, recently upgraded to Redding Competition dies for my 308.
My 303 Enfield is still fed with Lee dies.
Yes, I have the money to upgrade, a lot, I just do not see the point.
I am doing relatively well at club level here, and better than some with much more expensive equipment.
If I might use this, "Sometimes it is the Indian, not the arrow...."
Cuts both ways, I know

 

[morning would]

As someone who just started down this rabbit hole less than 3 weeks ago, wow…..There is so much to learn and even more to buy. But, even I have figured out, it doesn’t have to be stupid expensive. But the faster you want to go, the more it costs. Bottom line.

In the last couple weeks I bought a Rock Chucker Supreme, a Chargemaster Link, 3 sets of dies, 20 or so boxes of bullets, 5000 primers in a mix of 205m’s AR’s and 450’s, 10 lbs of powder in misc 1 lb increments, built a new reloading bench, misc trays and boxes, a tumbler with extra media, a universal decapper, universal seating die, a Frankford platinum case prepper, and assorted misc shit. All told, I have spent probably $3000 or so. And then, because I can now reload my own “precision” ammo, I just bought a White Oak SPR upper yesterday. There’s another $700.

All of the above and I have loaded a grand total of 70 rounds so far. That’s some expensive ammo. But, there is nothing like the feeling of sitting behind my rifle and watching the groups come in as the charge weight changes. I’m frickin hooked….

 

[Smurky]

Buy a Dillon RL550 to start.
Get a quality digital or beam scale to weigh charges thrown by the Dillon.

Load away and be happy as fuck.

Alternative: Get a Redding T-7, quality Redding powder measure, and a quality scale.

Load away and be happy as fuck.

Honestly, Id start with the Dillon due to its versatility.

Redding T-7 is on sale at Midway USA for $379. Just ordered another one.

T-7 is on sale at Midsouth for $359.

Right here, this is where I’d start.

 

[Pépé]

Dillon 550 is a good start.

I still use a Forester CO- AX press
and a Culver powder measure.
For small (under 100 rds) and precision loads.
That’s what I started with.

Decided on powders and primers.
Then good luck finding them. Pitch in on orders with fellow reloaders to save money.
You’ll need a hand trimmer to start.
Some other brass prep tools.
Dillon vibration cleaner and media.
I use a RCBS brass prep station but you can and should buy the hand tools.
Brass lube.
Once you get the hand tools down you can appreciate and move up to the automated tools.
For my bulk shooting (5.56, 9mm, .45, 300BLK) I use my Dillon 750.
3030, .243, .260IMP, .270, 7mm, 300 WBY MAG I use the Forester Co-ax single stage, Culver measure, and tickler.

 

[G8TOR]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

Been using a RCBS Rock Chucker for the past 12 years and I love just working my loads with the best dies I can find. As you gain confidence, you'll waste less brass, primers, and powder that can get costly. Become a master at the simple, repeatable process, and then decide what other gear you'd like to have. Reloading requires your attention to detail and it will take time to learn what is best for each caliber and weapon.

A thing to keep in the back of your mind is how to reload if you are ever in a situation where the power goes down. In those cases, you want to have a mechanical process that allows you to reload by hand without the need for a generator or electronics.

 

[john smallberries]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

Basic setup for me, rockchucker press, dilon dies, forster case trimmer, ohaus beam scale, rcbs brass boss for prepping brass, rcbs powder throw and trickler, case trays, imperial wax for sizing, home made annealer, SAC head space comparator, digital calipers, caliber specific case gauge, rcbs hand priming tool. Sure I'm forgetting something, but I've been using this system now for years. It ain't fast, but it is cheap, and if done correctly yields some pretty fair results for me.

 

[Btrain]

Newb question...

Many have said to start looking for primers and bullets first... If planning to start out loading primarily 6.5CM - Would that just be small rifle primers / how much does brand effect on primers?

Once fired Hornady ELDM brass vs. buying new brass - Big effect?

Appreciate the thoughts

 

[NiteQwill]

Newb question...

Many have said to start looking for primers and bullets first... If planning to start out loading primarily 6.5CM - Would that just be small rifle primers / how much does brand effect on primers?

Once fired Hornady ELDM brass vs. buying new brass - Big effect?

Appreciate the thoughts

Small primers (more reliable igniting in 6.5). Large rifles are for magnums are larger, IMHO.

Brand DOES matter.

Do not buy Hornady brass. It's thin walled and your primer pockets will be lose in short time. Lapua, Alpha, and Peterson would be the only ones to consider.

 

[Pépé]

Newb question...

Many have said to start looking for primers and bullets first... If planning to start out loading primarily 6.5CM - Would that just be small rifle primers / how much does brand effect on primers?

Once fired Hornady ELDM brass vs. buying new brass - Big effect?

Appreciate the thoughts

Previously fired brass should now be fire formed to your chamber of that rifle.
If you want to just neck size the brass that should aid in accuracy and brass life.
My experience has been the Federal primers tend to fit tighter then others. Especially the match primers if you can get them. A plus.
With new brass keep track of how many time you reload. Clean after firing before processing. Inspect for anomalies. Cracks or splits. Brass wear around the base. Notice how the spent primer had been hit. Looking for signs of over pressure. Or soot around the spent primer. After 3 maybe 4 loadings depending on how hot you load them if primer pockets are too loose. Can the brass and start over.

 

[Defender3]

Didn't have time to read the entire thread but I'll be a contrarian due to costs and time.

Take the $4K you'll spend on quality reloading gear and components and instead buy quality ammo your rifles like. I easily have $10K in reloading stuff and am still shooting my stock of factory Hornday ELD-Ms and Lapua with great results (.5-.75MOA).

Flame suit on.

 

[M.A. Matteson]

@CK1.0 So in a $$$ number what's that setup cost? Cause that's where I'm heading long before I feel like buying power and bullets.

You are headed into a rabbit hole. To save some, I would use bushing dies to start with. That way you can adjust your I.D. of your necks as needed. FL dies. Measuring tools are needed and almost up front too. You can spent over $10,000.00 in getting reloading equipment going for top of the line equipment. You'll need case trimmer, someway to bevel the necks, The list goes on and on. I would look at ebay for some items. Look at what the direct store purchases are and see what you can bid on for less. If not wanting to get bushing dies to start with. then ebay is a place to go too. Compile a list if items needed to reload with, and costs. COMPONENTS will be the hardest to acquire. That can take more time that anything else. If purchasing brass I would get Lapua, Peterson or other top of the line cases. Get at lease 100 case per caliber in the same lot number. It can be perplexing in what to get. I noted that you were or have gotten an Area-19 press. That's on the high side of a press. Other expensive items are 21st Cty neck cutters for thickness, Henderson Precision Gen-3 case trimmer, Annealer AMP for about $1,500.00, PrimeRight for primer setting,
I've set a reloading input in Words over the pass year, trying to determine what I needed and what I purchased. Most all high end equipment. Send me your email address and I will forward the word dock to you. You can reach me a [email protected]. I probably went into areas that doesn't apply to you. It's a living doc, so it being adjusted all the time. So items may not be on pages shown. I am having to adjust it all the time.

 

[Pépé]

Didn't have time to read the entire thread but I'll be a contrarian due to costs and time.

Take the $4K you'll spend on quality reloading gear and components and instead buy quality ammo your rifles like. I easily have $10K in reloading stuff and am still shooting my stock of factory Hornday ELD-Ms and Lapua with great results (.5-.75MOA).

Flame suit on.

That is certainly a way of doing it.
Can saved you time and storage.

Say, you figure your gonna shoot at least 1000 rds per year. Buy 1000 rds. And hope all the boxes come from the same lot. Which would be okay if you shoot just one rifle. And there is nothing wrong with that.
Often times the money you save with reloading just makes you shoot more for the same money. My experience has also been because you buy in bulk when you reload you’ll always be able to shoot when times and materials get hard to come by.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Newb question...

Many have said to start looking for primers and bullets first... If planning to start out loading primarily 6.5CM - Would that just be small rifle primers / how much does brand effect on primers?

Once fired Hornady ELDM brass vs. buying new brass - Big effect?

Appreciate the thoughts

Hmm, bullets other than Bergers aren’t hard to find anymore, by and large. I would modify the advice a bit: choose your brass and your bullet first, then buy primers and powder to match.

That Hornady brass is gonna be LRP, for instance, so stocking up on SRPs isn’t a good idea for that brass. But yes, if you’re just starting, go SRP and Lapua/Peterson/Alpha OCD as @NiteQwill stated.

Bullet weight will influence powder selection somewhat, so choose your bullet then choose your powder. Powder and primers remain the most difficult to find; powder is currently the worst.

 

[Defender3]

That is certainly a way of doing it.
Can saved you time and storage.

Say, you figure your gonna shoot at least 1000 rds per year. Buy 1000 rds. And hope all the boxes come from the same lot. Which would be okay if you shoot just one rifle. And there is nothing wrong with that.
Often times the money you save with reloading just makes you shoot more for the same money. My experience has also been because you buy in bulk when you reload you’ll always be able to shoot when times and materials get hard to come by.

Not trying to be argumentative, but I've shot, for example, over 6,000rds of factory Hornady 260R in a gasser and bolt gun out to 1,035yds. I gave up worrying about lots, SD, ES, etc. If I was going to a mile, I'd be paying closer attention, but for what I'm doing at Quantico on their square ranges, it works. YMMV.

 

[chthomp]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

I'd start stocking up on Primers, Powder, and Bullets before you spend any money on any equipment this will be the snag in
your plans, but buyer beware there are scammers everywhere. Go to a handloader website or buy a reloader manual and see
what your specific cartridges will need.................................. Just saying !!

 

[Shoots 700's]

I hate to think about how much I have spent on reloading equipment and the components I have. But seeing that times are the way they are I saved all my components this season and shot factory Hornady and Berger 6 creed factory ammo. With Berger I get Lapua brass for later date and Hornady brass to use for practice

 

[Jonathan Swift]

First thing you should do is join the reloading discord and set up notifications for powder, primers and brass, that's your roadblock. Second thing is get a chronograph and chrony factory ammo so you aren't flying blind with 60k+ psi next to your face. You will need multiple reloading books. The press? Meh whatever, they will all work, do different things, cast iron is better than aluminum in the long run, if I had the choice I would go Dillon over the fancy turret, but it's your money so you do you. I started out with and still use a lyman tmag2, Boy she's getting loose lol, but still makes great ammo, but a turret press is awesome to start out with if you shoot pistols. Something else is a good set of check weights. For beam scales look for old Ohaus made in America scales, they have ground glass saddles and the beams are hardened steel. More important than money spent is consistency in your measurements. You need to constantly check weights, check zeros, velocities, overall lengths etc. also powders have personalities, you need to take the time to get to know them, some are really cool dudes but when pushed to far things go sideways really quick, some need to be pushed to shine, some don't like bad weather lol Seriously though, reloading is dangerous, go slow, be methodical, write everything down in a notebook.

 

[Haney]

My advice , dive in as deep as you can afford . Stock up on powder and primers as fast as possible . To me , shooting factory is like letting someone else pull the trigger . Good luck on your venture .

 

[Jonathan Swift]

My advice , dive in as deep as you can afford . Stock up on powder and primers as fast as possible . To me , shooting factory is like letting someone else pull the trigger . Good luck on your venture

My advice , dive in as deep as you can afford . Stock up on powder and primers as fast as possible . To me , shooting factory is like letting someone else pull the trigger . Good luck on your venture .

Primers are ridiculous now, up 330% lol at least powder isn't so bad, stuff is consistently in stock at least, but Daum

 

[hayseed]

you guys are way out of my league... i use a rcbs rock chucker press... rcbs powder charger.. rcbs priming tool... i'm way down on the cheap end... & i rarely shoot over 100yds... i live in a populated area and it's hard just finding a place to target practice... but i do love to shoot... and i manage to reload with what i have... my biggest problem lately is finding "IMR 4053" my favorite powder... hard to find powder... primers... & bullets... but i plug along as best i can... i've been picking up a few pointer as i go along... so thanks for letting me share with you...

 

[Max4007]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

By all means do it. It's a great hobby. You'll be able to squeeze the last ounce of accuracy out of any rifle or handgun you shoot. With the costs of components these days you won't save a lot, but it's still worth while.

 

[Max4007]

you guys are way out of my league... i use a rcbs rock chucker press... rcbs powder charger.. rcbs priming tool... i'm way down on the cheap end... & i rarely shoot over 100yds... i live in a populated area and it's hard just finding a place to target practice... but i do love to shoot... and i manage to reload with what i have... my biggest problem lately is finding "IMR 4053" my favorite powder... hard to find powder... primers... & bullets... but i plug along as best i can... i've been picking up a few pointer as i go along... so thanks for letting me share with you...

I use the same gear and have the results I'm looking for. As the great man once said "Speed is fine, but accuracy is final" I don't need to crank out 500 rounds a day. The 100 or so I do turn out are as good as it gets. Each one has exactly the same powder charge, the same weight bullet within +2- grains. That's as good as it gets with factory bullets.

 

[Max4007]

Primers are ridiculous now, up 330% lol at least powder isn't so bad, stuff is consistently in stock at least, but Daum

I agree about factory ammunition. It's good stuff, but not quite good enough for me. If you fire some through a chronograph you'll see what I mean. The difference in velocity between rounds can be more than 50-75 fps. This means a difference in group size of 1 moa or more. For a hunting rifle at 40-75 yards not a real problem. At 200-500 it's the difference between a hit or miss. Same with competitive shooting, the difference between the 10 ring and the X ring