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Alot of people recommend doing this on new, unfired Lapua brass. Its also not clear to me if you need to do this because Lapua often has slightly thicker case-wall thickness, which may make the neck-wall ever so slightly thicker and stiffer to seat if 'sharp', or if they just use particularly sharp/squared off cutting tools, leving 'sharp' edges. Its very possible that this isn't required for other kinds of brass for various reasons.I've always made it a habit to do this even on new brass. Is it necessary or am I wasting my time?
I've always made it a habit to do this even on new brass. Is it necessary or am I wasting my time?
Do you ever compare case lengths in the same batch after say 10 firings? I’ve found that cases from the same batch can grow at different rates. That means that I do trim on occasion in order to maintain case length consistency.Look at the clearance of your case mouth to chamber wall with a Borescope. You’ll probably see you don’t need to trim as much or if ever.
I chamfer every loading. Consistency
I remember you posting about that.In all my chambers, regular & match the shortest length was 25 thou. I’ve not seen them grow yet. I am keeping an eye on it. Just came upon this discovery last month when the thought hit me to see just how much clearance I had. I started laughing…
At least in theory -- Too much trimming can lead to excess carbon deposition before the free-bore. Its not so much about frequency of trimming, but the average length of brass being fired. If you are trimming to 10 thou under, every firing, you are IMHO timming too much. You can keep a more automated-process and reduce the risk of carbon rings, however simply by shrinking your trim-to length to something like ± 5 thou under.I have been running all brass through all 3 steps. I do not see how this can be a bad thing.