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I am partial to the digital patterns. Particularly the marine digital (Marpat) or the German Flecktarn
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My local smith will not do with barrel thickness less than .685-.750 or so. I have to find someone that can do that or a reputable updated barrel that comes with thread. Any suggestions? Thank you.The Lite barrels can usually be threaded 1/2x28” but some smiths are reluctant on 30 cal bores because there’s very little steel between the threads and the interior wall.
My smith is threading my Lite 1/2x28 but it’s .264 (6.5 PRC).
LoLSo many pictures of virginal pretty guns here, anyone got any pictures of guns in use
Like putting lipstick on a pig, got any pictures of it in action?LoL
Same rifle, 2 different paint jobs. This year going to be going with an MDT stock and the rifle will enter a new phase of its life. Much like me.
So many pictures of virginal pretty guns here, anyone got any pictures of guns in use
LoLSo many pictures of virginal pretty guns here, anyone got any pictures of guns in use
LoL nope. I hunt alone and am not into vanity selfies. No cameras following me around. I will likely not hunt with it again. At 70 it’s hard just to get out into the Appalachian's to hunt. I suspect my last trip out with any rifle was last year.Like putting lipstick on a pig, got any pictures of it in action?
Read the bolded. It works. 9/16 thread face mount brake.My local smith will not do with barrel thickness less than .685-.750 or so. I have to find someone that can do that or a reputable updated barrel that comes with thread. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Push On,,, find away to get you out…. Good Luck!!!LoL
LoL nope. I hunt alone and am not into vanity selfies. No cameras following me around. I will likely not hunt with it again. At 70 it’s hard just to get out into the Appalachian's to hunt. I suspect my last trip out with any rifle was last year.
I do plan on hunting some paper at the local range though lol
Thanks!! I will be doing some camping come spring, but hunting may be more than I can handle. The next best thing is just to be out there lol.Push On,,, find away to get you out…. Good Luck!!!
Which stock is that?Started life as a TAC A1, shot it that way for a few years... Put this together in December, currently working on a 7 SAUM Tikka build with another I just bought for the action.
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I need to just pick up a aics mag and try in in my CTR bravo. I feel it should be pretty damn close to working with both.I just grabbed a CTR, I am looking to put it in a W3, still only CTR or AICS depending on chassis option? No way to use both?
Between the AICs and CTR is there a max COAL difference?
Nope. The magazine galley hasn’t the material to remove. Plus, the mag retention system is engineered for their proprietary short action mags.I probably know the answer but is there any reasonable way to modify a Tikka Tac A1 stock to accept long action length Tikka T3 regular mags? At the moment Tikka TAC A1 = CTR MAG = 2.950" correct? Would like it to accept a magnum cartridge and COAL 3.150" or similar. Any hack method available?
Will 2.950 be into the lands with a factory tikka 6.5C chamber?CTR is 2.950”, AICS SA per MDT is 2.870” with binder plate and 2.960” without binder plate, but they say you might have to modify the receiver to run them that way. I don’t know what other brands of AICS are I imagine similar. Polymer magazines are usually shorter as well.
Yes if you load a round to max ctr mag length will you touch the lands in a factory tikka barrel?That I don’t know I’m it a reloader
Edit: Some drivel that I posted because I forgot how the TACT A1 look.I probably know the answer but is there any reasonable way to modify a Tikka Tac A1 stock to accept long action length Tikka T3 regular mags? At the moment Tikka TAC A1 = CTR MAG = 2.950" correct? Would like it to accept a magnum cartridge and COAL 3.150" or similar. Any hack method available?
Not exactly a Tac A1 chassis solution, but you could do an MDT ESS long action with the 15” full rail and high scope mount base, then other XTN to carbine adapter, and their carbine to carbine folding adapter, and then use the Tac A1 stock. Instant LA Tac A1 at home that will accept LA AICS. Or do the same with a Cadex if they do a LA for the Tikka.The cheap and easy way is to exchange the bottom metal with one you get from a Tikka Hunter or Varmint model. Then use a filler like Devcon to fill the gaps on the side pf the bottom metal. Just don't forget to use release agent if you don't want to glue the bottom metal to the stock.
I recently went the other way so that I can use the more reliable CTR magazine in my .223 Supervarmint.
Zero issues with that, it’ll work great. That’s a better barrel profile anyway for that chassisHi guys,
I'm in 2k+ shots on my original TACT A1 6.5CRMR barrel and after tinkering with my mates new super varmint I had an idea.
Instead of rebarreling the rifle, I might just buy a new super varmint. Take the A1 elevated scope rail and the trigger, but them with the super varmint action+barrel and drop it into my chassis. The super varmint stock is decent enough for hunting and the tact A1 barrel will last an eternity in it.
I don't mind slow tikka barrels, I get 800m/s+ and I'm satisfied with it. This way I'll get heavier new barrel (SS and cerakoted) MLU and a "new" hunting rifle. What am I missing here, any insights?
Yes.Will 2.950 be into the lands with a factory tikka 6.5C chamber?
Where can I get one of those nice bendy bold knobs?
The Sterk is what you seek, however it is out of stock again last I checked. If you don’t want to wait on it to come back in stock, the Anarchy Outdoors swept handle with a ball knob is very similar to the Sterk, you could go that route as well. I have both, I like the Sterk better but the Anarchy is almost as good.Where can I get one of those nice bendy bold knobs?
Good Luck,,, everyone’s mileage will vary….I am looking at purchasing a T3X TAC A1 and I and undecided on caliber.
I was thinking that 6.5 Creedmoor was my best bet but I am also considering .308. Both have advantages and disadvantages... 6.5 CR is longer range, better G1/G4 numbers, however .308 delivers more power and is much more available in a SHTF situation. My use case currently is pinging steel or punching holes in paper, but that may expand to hunting.
Any thoughts from someone with more experience than I would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks much!
6.5 Creedmoor is just as available these days and priced about the same as 308. It’s also a more than capable hunting round. The ONLY reason to consider a 308 over a 6.5 IMO is barrel life. A 308 barrel will last 2-3 times as long as a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Of course, by the time you’ve shot out a barrel you’ve spent so much on ammo that the cost of a barrel isn’t a big deal.I am looking at purchasing a T3X TAC A1 and I and undecided on caliber.
I was thinking that 6.5 Creedmoor was my best bet but I am also considering .308. Both have advantages and disadvantages... 6.5 CR is longer range, better G1/G4 numbers, however .308 delivers more power and is much more available in a SHTF situation. My use case currently is pinging steel or punching holes in paper, but that may expand to hunting.
Any thoughts from someone with more experience than I would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks much!
This ^^^^6.5 Creedmoor is just as available these days and priced about the same as 308. It’s also a more than capable hunting round. The ONLY reason to consider a 308 over a 6.5 IMO is barrel life. A 308 barrel will last 2-3 times as long as a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel. Of course, by the time you’ve shot out a barrel you’ve spent so much on ammo that the cost of a barrel isn’t a big deal.
Edit to add, I say this as someone who owns a Tikka 6.5 Creedmoor and half a dozen 308s that I almost never shoot anymore.
Are you reloading?I appreciate your comments. Thank you for the insight!