Rifle Scopes question,

[phillip61]

first, I don't know dodo about scopes, next I know the thought process about how to use a mil-dot scope for ranging and hold overs. But when usings a plain duplex retical I'm guessing you have to dial in every shot? Is that anywhere close to being correct? Any input you guys have would be great.

I ask because I just bought a custom rifle that has a luepold 10x with a duplex retical, but I have a nikon 2.5-10x44 Tactical with illuminated mildot that I bought a while back. So I'm trying to decide which one I want (or should) use.

 

[Graham]

Re: question,

Take the time to learn to use the Mil dot reticle. Your knowledge base and your ability to use the rifle will improve.

If you only have a 'duplex' reticle you can calculate the distance in MOA or Mils between the cross hair and the beginning of the post. That will give you one known hold-over aiming point.

BTW, you didn't say what you were using the rifle for. If it's for target shooting at a single known distance it doesn't matter.

 

[phillip61]

Re: question,

I will be target shooting with my friends. Mostly from 100-500yds. But will also do a little hog hunting in my spare time.

 

[roggom]

Re: question,

Duplex are great for close in 50-300 yard hunting. Set your zero for your desired MPBR (max point blank range), cross hairs on kill zone, take the shot. The MPBR is based on your desired kill zone, so even if the POI is low or high, it is still in the zone. Pull the trigger, bacon in the morning. This website will help you calc your mpbr. http://www.biggameinfo.com/

As for target and steel, a mil/mil or moa/moa will do you fine.

 

[CopperMach]

Re: question,

IMO the nikon will be a better training scope. The mildot reticle is a far more useful and adaptable reticle. The duplex reticle is an excellent hunting/target reticle at known distances. You have both, play with both. You will find what you feel comfortable with which will help narrow down what you are looking for in your next scope. With all the research I have done on the topic I have come to believe that even if you aquire your "dream scope" something will come along that "just has to be better..."

 

[Moadrifter]

Re: question,

Don't know the Nikon - if the glass and scope quality is close to the Leupold 10X then use the Nikon bc it has more of what you want - mil (or moa) calibrated reticle marks, variable power, etc. This is a no-brainer as long as the Nikon is pretty good. If you want to start getting an idea of what pretty good is - then read this:

Shooting Voodoo


If you want to shoot further out and you don't have a scope with good reticle marks or reliable/accurate/repeatable turret adjust, at under 300 yards follow roggom's advice above. If you want to shoot further out without reticle marks and/or turrets, then you can follow Graham's advice about referencing hold over against cross hair to post subtension in mils or moa - or as long as you know how big the target is you can use your scope picture to estimate by eye a holdover in inches equal to your bullet drop at target range by referencing to a known target dimension - this can get you out to 400 or 500 with decent accuracy if you practice and achieve average proficiency (or farther out if you are good). You can do the same for estimating windage hold. However, to accurately estimate range at longer distance you will either need to be a very good estimator of distance (most of us aren't), acquire a range finder, or use a mil/moa scope with a ranging reticle (back to mils or moas on your reticle again).

If it were me, I would decide the Nikon is a good scope to start with or find a decent scope with FFP, mil or moa reticle, repeatible turrets that track well with variable power up to at least 10X.