Need some help Identifying a rifle please.

[Cheech]

I know nothing about this rifle. I was told it is a mauser 98? action? in 8mm? I traded for it to build a .308. Will it work?... this is my main reason for posting.

on the left side of the action is writen: 8561Y4 CESKOSLOVENSKA' ZBROJOVKA,A.S.,BRNO

There is a small "v" above the "C" and "VZ.24" underneath lined up with the "A"

Also above the "8561Y4" is "F3(some design)38"

the 8561 is also on the left side of the buttstock along with XR17050

On the top forward section of the action Where the 8561y4 is stamped on the side you can see where some design or makers mark has been mostly removed. It apperantly covered the intire top.

It seems to be complete.

 

[Sportin Wood]

Something is telling me that there is a section called Vintage Rifles might be a better suited area for this post...

 

[Cheech]

Maybe so but I didn't really think it was a "vintage sniper rifle". So since it is certainly a "bolt action rifle" I put it here. if the MODs wish to move it that's fine.

 

[roggom]

It is a scrubbed Vz24 rifle, In all intents and purposes it is identical to the Mauser 98 action, and should be 8mm Mauser. You can google Czech Lion, as that is the crest that used to be on the face. Aim Surplus had them in various grades from $199 to $300 for a while. Not to be turned off by the scrubbed receiver, they are rock solid receivers and most were used in European countries, so you should not have a bucket of rust under the wood like the 7mm VZ24's from South America. Now as far as "safe to shoot" the correct answer is to have a qualified gunsmith check it out first. Many of the C&R rifles that make it to the US are good to go, but not to say what the person who had it before you has done with it.

Note: By law there should be an import mark somewhere on the rifle, something like C.A.I Georgia VT 8mm Mauser or any other importer, it may be on the receiver or on the muzzle.

You should be able to rebarrel with an A&B or Lother Walther bbl or your choice. 308, 6.5 swede, 7x57 and on. CDI makes bottom metal if you want to go that route. Just be careful as Mauser projects can go from $150 to $1k in no time, because of receiver tap for scope, lug lapping, bolt turning, etc.

 

[Cheech]

Thanks for the reply and info. I looked up the "VZ.24" since you mentioned it as a "model" and found out a lot. Thanks again.

It seems to be in good shape. the bolt seats solid and has no play once locked up. It seems to be more of a "Long" Action. Would these actions be suitable for building?

Almost seems a shame though, to scavange the action. Are these rifles of any value in their original condition or would I NOT be committing a gunsmithing sin by seperateing the action from the rest of the rifle for building?

 

[gunnut284]

It not going to be particularly suited to turn into a precision rifle and because it doesn't appear to have been "sporterized" it would still be of interest to a collector. I would sell it and put the money toward a Rem 700 or other more modern action for your build. The Rem 700 will be more supported for parts designed for precision rifles.

 

[WhiteDingo]

Scrubbed VZ.24 rifles are pretty non-desirable for the most parts from a collector's standpoint. They do, however, make excellent actions to build on. There's no reason you couldn't build a .308 rifle on it, though getting them to feed may sometimes be a trick.
I've done at least two mauser re-builds on VZ.24 actions that I recall. One is a 6.5x55 Swedish medium target rifle in a thumbhole stock that I built for a friend. He's a mediocre shooter for the most part, but the rifle will hold about 1/2" groups using factory target ammo.
Also built a .30-06 sporter rifle on a customer's action for him; he was just tickled pink at the finished product. The actions clean up and polish quite nicely, I didn't see any huge tooling marks and the steel was relatively clean to begin with.

You're probably going to want to have the bolt handle cut and re-welded. You could forge it down, but as I recall the VZ24 bolt handles are a little stubby and you end up with a shorter handle than is comfortable for most folks. My personal preference is to weld on one of the Talley or Brownell style handles, angled back like a Model 70.

Something like this:

 

[roggom]

The Mausers are very easy to work with and most Smiths worth their salt can fashion one into pretty much anything. The only issue is you will rarely get back what you put into one, unless the work is done by a smith who specializes in exotic Mausers. Here is a list of calibers you can rebarrel to.




Link

Mauser Central your Restoring and Sporterizing Resource


I have made some low budget Mauser projects and have been pretty happy. I stopped chopping C&R rifles as one Old Timer told me that the rifle is ours to do with it, but they are only ours for a short time. Kinda makes sense in that once its is chopped it is done who knows what generations after me would want in that same rifle.

Anyway, not a purist by any means.

For a sinless mod, you can inspect the barrel under the guard (lift slowly as not to rip the screw out of the handguard, and dont forget the screw on top right at the rear sight. IF the bbl looks good, you can take it out and put it into a Boyds Laminated stock and have a nice (but heavy) close range deer getter.

If your heart is set on a Mauser precision, there are guys who specialize in tuning VZ and mauser actions, they end up like the pic above, but usually go for the same price as a Remmy action.


Here is the example of a Mauser project I did/had done. I used a shot out 7x57 VZ 12/33 and added a $40 Numrich 19.5" NOS 7x57 bbl. (I think they still have some) . The stock is the Boyds I was mentioning, Lyman peep Williams front and XS sight rail (not really needed , but if I wanted a forward EER scope mounted)





link

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...r-rifles/118358-then-became-mauser-scout.html

 

[gunnut284]

When I say "collector" I don't necessarily mean a high end discriminating buyer just that its still appealing to someone who wants a military configuration Mauser over a sporterizes one. Around here that gun would sell for at least $250-300 which would get you close to a used or entry level Rem 700 or Savage, which will be much more easily and inexpensively turned into a precision rifle. A Mauser can be done as a good precision rifle but the cost of a bolt handle job, trigger, safety and drill/tap is as much as a commercial action which doesn't need that stuff. Unless you have a passion for Mausers and/or can do all the work yourself its not something I would recommend. I've been down that road and was disappointed.

 

[Cheech]

Would any of ya'll know what the tennon thread specs are on these actions?