Why won't this Lyman balance scale zero? Going nuts here!!!!

7magsavage

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Minuteman
Aug 9, 2012
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Ok, so I did drop the damn thing about 2 feet. Put it back together (it's not rocket science). Now when I go to zero this thing the beam is just touching the top of the scale. If I add 2.5 grains or so with the small weight it will bring the beam down and it seems to hold zero. I just can't figure out why it's off. Nothing obvious is missing and nothing appears warped. This thing is just about as simple of a piece of equipment as one could ever find, but I can't figure out why it won't zero. Suggestions welcome.

Steve
 
I can't see it from here but I suspect something really is "warped"; probably the pivot bar. Few sensitive precision instruments can survive a two foot drop without notice.
 
After pondering on it all day I think something small must have got knocked off when it dropped. It never was all that good of a scale to begin with. Too much cheap lightweight plastic.
 
Get yourself an older Ohaus beam scale.. I have an Ohaus 505 from probably the mid 60's to the mid 70's that was given to me, and I love it.. Metal body, the beam dampens quickly, its accurate and reliable.
 
Somewhere along the line I had picked up a used RCBS (made by Ohaus) scale that would not zero. Stating that I was not the original owner, I sent it to Ohaus for repair. Not much later, I received a new RCBS 10-10 scale because they didn't have any parts for a scale as old as the one I had sent in.

So I, too, recommend you get an RCBS or Ohaus scale. You just cannot beat that level of service.

Richard
 
Knocked my 1010 off a shelf and the pivot bar in the beam came loose so that it would rotate out of position. Would not balance after that. I sent it to RCBS for "evaluation." Went to work for 3 weeks and when I came back home I had a brand new 1010 waiting on me. Letter with it said it was a warranty adjustment, no charge. The scale was over 30 yrs old and I told them I TORE IT UP. Can't beat that kind of service.
 
UPDATE


I ordered the ribs 1010 scale from midway. I used it to load up 20 rounds for zeroing the new rifle and another 25 at varying charge weights to start working up a load.
Two days later I was going to load a few more rounds so I could make my trip to the range worth my time. After loading about seven rounds I noticed that there was a very obvious difference in the level of powder in the cases. Some were loaded to the neck-shoulder junction and some were halfway up the neck. I dumped a few charges back in the powder pan and reweighed them. They were WAY OFF. Long story short, the scale will not hold zero and I can weigh a charge and then reweigh it and get a different reading every time. So now I have to send this scale back to midway and pull all of my previous loads because I have no faith that they are right. Damn this is frustrating. The reloading gods are just not working with me here.
 
UPDATE


I ordered the ribs 1010 scale from midway. I used it to load up 20 rounds for zeroing the new rifle and another 25 at varying charge weights to start working up a load.
Two days later I was going to load a few more rounds so I could make my trip to the range worth my time. After loading about seven rounds I noticed that there was a very obvious difference in the level of powder in the cases. Some were loaded to the neck-shoulder junction and some were halfway up the neck. I dumped a few charges back in the powder pan and reweighed them. They were WAY OFF. Long story short, the scale will not hold zero and I can weigh a charge and then reweigh it and get a different reading every time. So now I have to send this scale back to midway and pull all of my previous loads because I have no faith that they are right. Damn this is frustrating. The reloading gods are just not working with me here.

You probably know this, but make sure there are no air currents in the area while using the scale. Ceiling fans and AC kicking on/off will play with your readings big time.
 
ALWAYS a good idea to have a set of check weights by the scale and USE them regularly. i go so far as combine weights to get as close as posible to the actual charge weight to check the scale. comparing scales side by side is never a bad idea.
 
You probably know this, but make sure there are no air currents in the area while using the scale. Ceiling fans and AC kicking on/off will play with your readings big time.

Yeah, I even tried moving the scale inside the house. Definitely no air currents. That this is dangerous!
 
I have noticed on my new 1010 that it seems to be much easier to get the sliding weights out of place on the beam. In other words not quite fully in the notches on the beam and this can cause discrepancies between charges as well. This wasn't as prevalent on my old one, but I did the same as you and knocked it off the shelf. FUBAR
 
Is there a magnetic dampening ( magnet ) with that beam scale . ??

All reloading scales for the last 30 years or so have been magnetically damped. Prior to that most reloading scales were oil damped, with a small paddle the pivot point dragging in a container of oil. This system works well, although a bit messy, and you can change the amount of damping required by changing the viscosity of the oil. I do have a couple of un-damped scales, although accurate, they are a real pain to use.

OP.I can't figure out why it won't zero. Suggestions welcome.

I would guess that the copper damping blade took a knock - This should be at right angles to the beam and central in the damping slot - If this was bent back by even 10 thou this would make a couple of grains difference with the zeroing. - You could compensate with extra weight added to the weight box (I use electrical solder) or carefully bend the damper blade. If the blade is loose it can be peened over or a drop of superglue worked in. Either way the beam will need to be re-zeroed.

Here's a video I made showing how to re-zero the beam.
10 10 Scale - YouTube