Repo PU Scope for Mosin

[Pinecone]

I picked up a Mosin sniper version. It is not an original sniper, but a made up with a modern repo PU scope. One clue is, that reticle stays centered as you adjust the scope.

As I understand it, once zeroed, you should be able to loosen the two screws on each turret and move them without moving the reticle. But loosening these two screws does not seem to separate the turret movement from the reticle. The cap is staked to the center post.

Any ideas of how to fix or make work properly?

I am also looking at filing the mount to zero the scope. Windage is easy. But for elevation, with the rear of the mount as high as I can get it, to zero at 100 yards, the turret is set to about 500. Any ideas of how to bring this down?

Thanks

 

[Joop]

Before you file anything, work some more with the scope. I'm not sure exactly which scope you have, so it's hard to say for sure. But, my first thought would be that there could be grease in the turret (as there should be) that has stiffened and could be holding the dial from turning when you loosen the screws. This is a common problem on original Russian scopes, especially if they've been sitting in a crate for 60+ years. You'll want to loosen the screws on the turret top, then hold the turret top in place while trying to turn the drum that has the numbers on it. It could require a needle nosed pliers to do this, but try not to use too much brute force. Now, depending on who manufactured the scope, there is the possibility that the drums will not turn, as they are attached to the turret cap/top. I know Accumounts early PE scopes were like this and their PUs may have been that way, as well. The fact that the reticle doesn't move in the FOV when you turn the turret also suggests to me that this scope may be from Accumounts, or at least a similar design. On the Accumounts PE that I had, the numbered drum was actually glued to the turret knob. You may end up taking it apart to determine this and find a possible fix. Personally, I prefer the original scopes, They can be had for a lot cheaper nowadays than they were a few years ago and I've found them to be extremely rugged and user friendly.

Best of luck,

John

 

[Pinecone]

Thanks.

If you mean hold the center post while trying to turn the turret, the center post seems to be staked to the turret dial. But I will pull the screws and try to pull the turret cap off.

WRT filing, at least for windage, it is pretty simple. And I think that it is matter of filing the mount slightly, and that would zero the adjustment. But either way will work.

I maybe have to find a real PU.

 

[Joop]

No, I mean hold the turret knob at the top and spin the numbered dial to the desired point. The center screw and turret top should stay in the same place while doing this, if it adjusts like an original. But, something could be holding up the dial, like dried/hardened grease, or if it's actually glued to the top of the turret. As for grinding the mount, is it shooting too far left and you can't get enough windage out of the scope to compensate?

 

[Pinecone]

Ah, I see, the top and the number dial are separate, not like your typical scope.

 

[Pinecone]

That was it. I was expecting the entire turret to turn without moving the reticle, not just the scale.

I did file on the mount for windage, and got it down to 2 units off, versus 6+ to start. Luckily, my correction needed was in the direction of filing, not shimming.