First time using a dillon super 600 swager. Need assistance please.

[elfster1234]

Ok... before I got a super 600 swager I would just cut out the crimp with the layman case prep center chamfer bit just enough to finish up the job with the reamer which produced a super smooth finish and after many many pcs of brass I got it down to a science which made it really easy to seat primers. I just got the super 600 swager and finally did my first batch of 100pcs 5.56 lake city once fired. I started seating the 100pcs of swaged brass with the super 600 and I started getting about 1 out of 10 that just wasn't "smooth" primer seating and some actually flattened the primer forcing me to re-decap the primer and start over. I even played around with the rod adjustment going deeper hoping it would produce a more "smooth" primer seat but with still no luck. Not sure if I want to go any deeper and I'm starting to feel "some force" but not too much.. It is hard to guage the amout of force needed as you lower the super 600 handle and I have a gut feeling that going any deeper / harder (lol, sorry sex crazed people) would be too much... I ended up swaging all 100pcs of brass, and then doing all 100pcs of brass with my lyman case prep center "reamer" for about 3seconds just to smooth out the swage which produced an "ultra smooth and consistent" primer pocket ready for seating primers. I'm fine with this process actually as the super 600 swage "non cut" crimp removal & then about 3 to 4 seconds lyman case prep center "reamer" produces a damn near un-noticeable & super consistent primer swage / removal, but is there something I'm doing wrong with the super 600 swager so I don't need to use the reamer to make a more "smooth primer seat"? So far, without reaming after I swage, it has been really "gritty & not smooth" seating. I'm having mixed feelings about spending $100 dollars. Just not totally sure if spending $100 dollars is enough to not use the lyman case prep center chamfer bit to just "cut out" the crimp is worth it... I feel I'm doing something wrong, or am I doing it correct??? Like I said before, I'm ultra impressed with the super 600 swager & finished reamer combo as it produces a ultra perfect crimp removal, but shouldn't the super 600 swager just take care of it in one easy step? So far, all my $100 super 600 swager did is replace my lymann case prep center $10 chamfer bit for swaging the brass rather than cutting it out.... Am I missing something here?

Please advise.

 

[AZ.noob]

Hmmm. I use the same Dillon tool, and love it.
I can understand you being a bit apprehensive to crank the plunger in 'too far'; we're not weaving baskets here.
But try a few. You should feel drag/resistance when you operate it; it's moving metal.

I'd adjust it in maybe another quarter turn, test a few, and seat primers in them. Also, if you're not already doing it, separate by headstamp as some will need a bit more (or less) than others

 

[elfster1234]

that sounds good and thank you for your response.

would you say it is a "considerable" amount of pressure you feel at the bottom of the handle stroke? I'm getting close to feeling like I'm putting too much pressure on the brass. How do you guage what is too much OR too little swage pressure?

yes, they were all lake city 09 head stamp

Hmmm. I use the same Dillon tool, and love it.
I can understand you being a bit apprehensive to crank the plunger in 'too far'; we're not weaving baskets here.
But try a few. You should feel drag/resistance when you operate it; it's moving metal.

I'd adjust it in maybe another quarter turn, test a few, and seat primers in them. Also, if you're not already doing it, separate by headstamp as some will need a bit more (or less) than others

 

[AZ.noob]

It's a 'feel' thing, hard to explain.
If the plunger is in too far, it'll bind and you won't get full travel. You don't want to force it obviously, but it'll have a distinctive (but smooth) load on the handle. Also, the handle travels down below the level of your bench; you need to have it mounted/affixed on the edge of your bench (or raised) so the handle can swing all the way down through it's entire stroke.

Crank it in and test one or two. Then, without swaging any more of them and before making any further adjustments, prime those test samples. As pressure necessary to seat a primer is a 'feel' thing too, you'll know right away how it 'feels'

FWIW, I've never had that swager tool remove too much material.

 

[elfster1234]

sounds good, I'll try your info on the next go around. I do have the swager elevated so I can get full travel of the handle. i'll keep you informed once I can give it another shot.

It's a 'feel' thing, hard to explain.
If the plunger is in too far, it'll bind and you won't get full travel. You don't want to force it obviously, but it'll have a distinctive (but smooth) load on the handle. Also, the handle travels down below the level of your bench; you need to have it mounted/affixed on the edge of your bench (or raised) so the handle can swing all the way down through it's entire stroke.

Crank it in and test one or two. Then, without swaging any more of them and before making any further adjustments, prime those test samples. As pressure necessary to seat a primer is a 'feel' thing too, you'll know right away how it 'feels'

FWIW, I've never had that swager tool remove too much material.

 

[elfster1234]

I got to admit,,,, not totally impressed with the Dillon super 600 swager... im boardline thinking the lyman case prep center produces a smoother primer seat.... im really really trying to love this Dillon swager... is it just me or is this thing over hyped?

 

[MarinePMI]

Its been my experience that brass with differing and excessive flashing around the primer hole (where it is punched during the manufacturing process) causes the difference in feel with the Dillon 600. Think about it. The "anvil/rod" that the case sits on when placed in the 600, rests against the primer pocket flash hole. IF there is flashing present, and it varies, it will change the amount of force and the distance that the swager head has to travel. I have seen some brass (Winchester government contract .223) with flashing so bad, that when the primer pocket is swaged, you can visually see the flattened flashing, partially obscuring the flash hole.

If you want consistency when swaging, the brass must be consistent. Remove/debur the flash hole before swaging. Problem goes away (at least in my experience).

HTH

 

[Rprecision]

I got to admit,,,, not totally impressed with the Dillon super 600 swager... im boardline thinking the lyman case prep center produces a smoother primer seat.... im really really trying to love this Dillon swager... is it just me or is this thing over hyped?

I am kind of with you on that. I had some problems at first as well.

One thing that really pissed me off is the stupid design of the 5.56 anvil. The pointy end will deform the case web. So I chucked it up in my lathe and fixed that problem which really helped produce a better swedge. I sorted by headstamp which was also suggested above.

I also took me swedger apart and greased it really good which makes a big differance. Just pull the side c-clip off and dissassemble.

If there was a high speed cutter that indexed off the bottom of the case head for depth that could be adjusted and afordable it would give the dillon a serious run for its money!

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

Elfster,

Earlier this year I reloaded 5 cases (yes 5,000 rounds of .223) and I did swage that brass with the Dillon Super Swage 600. It worked amazingly well.

I found that if you apply CLP or some other lubricant to the roller and moving parts that the handle attaches to, it will be much much smoother. Also, the amount of force to apply is considerable. Think of it as slightly more force when you fully size your brass. You have to play with it a bit.

However, you will never get that butter smooth feeling when you seat the primers. There will be hang ups, but only slight. If you are crushing and flattening primers, then you need to swage the pocket more. Increase the adjustment on the swage rod incrementally until you get a good balance. But just to be sure, are you using the correct swage rod, right? There are two, one for small and one for large primer pockets.

Good luck. I love my Super Swage 600.

 

[rodnocker1`]

Like Rp, my one problem with the 600 is the 5.56 anvil going off center, deforming the case web. Other than that, no problems and it works great for me (I actually have 2 setups-1 for small primer, 1 for large).

I have an RCBS swagger setup that I don't even use anymore and have thought of selling but have just been too lazy to post.

 

[elfster1234]

Ok,,, so I adjusted the swager rod a little deeper and now the primers are seating really smooth (really good actually),, but it feels like I'm putting a good amount of force on the handle to properly swage the primer pocket.... would you say there is a "considerable" amount of pressure on the handle? so far, the 5 test pcs ive done so far has seated really really smooth and the primer seated just be below flush perfectly.... I even double check the brass after being swaged and the headspace is still spot on & glides in and out of the Wilson case gauge perfectly.... so far, I think I might have fixed my issues, but it just feels like i'm on the boarder line of "putting too much pressure" on the brass primer pocket area... What do you guys think?

Elfster,

Earlier this year I reloaded 5 cases (yes 5,000 rounds of .223) and I did swage that brass with the Dillon Super Swage 600. It worked amazingly well.

I found that if you apply CLP or some other lubricant to the roller and moving parts that the handle attaches to, it will be much much smoother. Also, the amount of force to apply is considerable. Think of it as slightly more force when you fully size your brass. You have to play with it a bit.

However, you will never get that butter smooth feeling when you seat the primers. There will be hang ups, but only slight. If you are crushing and flattening primers, then you need to swage the pocket more. Increase the adjustment on the swage rod incrementally until you get a good balance. But just to be sure, are you using the correct swage rod, right? There are two, one for small and one for large primer pockets.

Good luck. I love my Super Swage 600.

 

[elfster1234]

I just ran 100 for 100 with no issues... It really is a fine line with rod adjustment to get it just right. Looking good so far

 

[Ultraman550]

you should be able to pull down the handle with 2 fingers. I use this as my system and the super swager has worked very well for me. After I swage I run it on the Lyman case prep center to clean up the primer pocket and primers seat perfectly.

 

[Pinecone]

But you DO need to put some grease on the cam. Otherwise it will take a lot of force.

 

[elfster1234]

I put some clp on it so far... so far so good