small/light/portable swinging target stands?

T

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
    • May 7, 2011
    1,382
    33
    Scottsdale,Az
    #1
    Is there anything that you guys can recommend for a relatively small/light/portable swinging target stand.

    I know there are some old threads of target stands, but it seems most are commercial options or welded one piece options. I carry everything in my car, not a truck, so one piece options are a no-go. Also preferably something that doesn't need to be hammered into the ground.

    Currently I use 2 stakes with a piece of rebar in between them. They are connected with PVC piping elbows. The advantages is that it work OK and when broken up Its as easy as carrying a bunch of metal rods and a bag of connectors. But the disadvantages are that its hard to hammer spike into hard ground(sometimes close to impossible) and that the entire fixture starts to come apart after X amount of shots. I can provide some pictures, but its really not the best setup.

    I'm sure someone out there has thought of something more clever and useful
     
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    #3
    We really like to use rebar target stands. We sell them in sets, in either 1/2" or 3/4" inside diameter. 1/2" is most popular and fits standard rebar that can be had at the hardware store of the junk yard. I like 4 foot lengths on the rebar.

    We also include a set of grade 8 hardware, and a strip of conveyer belt. Hard to be for $24.

    Here is a pic, just a standard 12x12 AR500 target, getting beat up pretty good.


    2rfcw06.jpg
     
    #4
    Wow, those "last stands" look like EXACTLY what I was looking for. Just a bit pricey considering its just some plastic, but everyone's gotta feed their families and seems like its well worth the money.

    I see the little welded pieces sold by JC seem to be very nice too. Since its steel, I think it might hold up better over time. JC, in your 'spinner' video on your page, your using that rebar fitment pieces right? Seems solid. Also, whats the shipping on those, if thats all I get. What about if I get a piece of steel, is the 19.99 shipping include the shipping for the fitment pieces too?

    Decisions decision.
     
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    #6
    Lasts question, Whats the reason for using the 3/4" rebar? What purposes would you recommend the 3/4" over the 1/2"

    I know one time I've used my 2ftx2ft AR plate hanging on 1/2" rebar and it worked just fine. Does the 1/2" eventually bend over time when using bigger plates or something?
     
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    #8
    We just use it because we can fit a bigger pipe in it to be more heavy duty. The legs we use for the spinner and KYL rack is a precision .750 round bar. So its pretty strong, and high quality, but it costs us quite a lot, almost $3 a foot for that stuff because its a true .750. And that's what we like for out .750 SS bearings on out spinner. We just decided to use them for the KYL rack to keep quality of legs high, and the entire unit is very stout. Does not shake, move, etc when a target is hit.


    When I am hanging one single target, like a 12x24" or 12x12, or 66% IPSC, I always go with the 1/2". Its plenty strong, and just plain works.

    I have had a time where I used the 3/4" rebar stand, and had an 8 foot cross bar, then I hung 5 targets up at one time. That was a blast as well. Poor mans KYL rack at its best.


    timelinex said:
    Lasts question, Whats the reason for using the 3/4" rebar? What purposes would you recommend the 3/4" over the 1/2"

    I know one time I've used my 2ftx2ft AR plate hanging on 1/2" rebar and it worked just fine. Does the 1/2" eventually bend over time when using bigger plates or something?
    Click to expand...
     
    #10
    SniperCJ said:
    Heres one I made recently. The uprights fit into the legs and it breaks down relatively flat
    Click to expand...

    Those look really nice, but unfortunately I have no access to a welder...

    Anyways I think I've decided to go with jc's selection... I've ordered steel from him before and was satisfied.

    Now I just have to decide what steel I absolutely don't need but 'have to' get, to add to the package.
     
    #12


    This was my solution, its made of two 6 foot T-posts. Cut one in half, drill holes in the two legs and forward of the middle on the uncut one. One bolt will hold it together and allow legs to fold. A couple corners on the legs need to be trimmed and rounded to allow it to fold. I also pot a stabilizer between the legs to keep them from moving to the center under the stress of a shot. I would have taken more pictures but I didnt feel like walking out the 860m in the michigan snow to retrieve it yesterday. It took shots fine with no wobble, and cost less than $10 to make using only a drill and 4.5 inch grinder with cut off wheel. You can see the large chips where it took a few hits.
     
    #13
    jcvibby said:
    We really like to use rebar target stands. We sell them in sets, in either 1/2" or 3/4" inside diameter. 1/2" is most popular and fits standard rebar that can be had at the hardware store of the junk yard. I like 4 foot lengths on the rebar.

    We also include a set of grade 8 hardware, and a strip of conveyer belt. Hard to be for $24.

    Here is a pic, just a standard 12x12 AR500 target, getting beat up pretty good.


    2rfcw06.jpg
    Click to expand...

    Jake,

    I finally got around to playing around with the rebar holders. I tried with 66% IPSC and using 3 ft rebar, it held pretty good. When I tried with 4ft rebar, it still held but it felt like it would be bouncing around and not too stable. Is this normal? I'm not saying it would fall, it just seems the 4ft rebar is so long that it bends and has alot of play.

    My only problem I had was that when I tried my 3/8" AR plate thats 2ft by 2ft with the 4ft rebar. As soon as I let go of it, it basically just hit the floor. The rebar legs just bent outwards buckling under the weight.

    Any advice? i know the plate is pretty darn heavy, but I was hoping this would work with it.
     
    #14
    I used 2" pvc tubing. It can be assembled in less than a minute without the use of tools, it fits in an old tent bag, it cost 30 bucks to build, and if it gets shot it can be easily replaced with another tube in seconds.
     

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    #15
    Yeah that is just too darn heavy. A 24x24 inch plate will way around 70 pounds. Quite a lot of weight to put on a piece of rebar.

    Sometimes if I have a heavier plate like that,
    I try to find some square tubing. Then the stands actually fit OVER the tube legs. The square tube is super strong and will hold up hundreds of pounds.

    Or you can really use anything, the rebar is nice because its readily available and cheap, We find our for free at junkyards, in the back of our ranch equipment supply area etc.... But it has its limitations. But for something like a 12x12 target, or something like that, its perfect!
     
    #16
    Started using the JC Target stands late last year. Short of their weight limitations....they are about perfect. We don't shoot large plates anyway, the idea was to be able to move around 4", 6" and 8" plates easily to 400-800 yds.

    I agree...I'd simply take the brackets into a metal supply shop and get some square tubing to fit OVER the tubing, then hang the big plate.
     
    #19
    I have made several designs, but if I had a cnc machine or plasma cutter, I would make some of these like the shoot-n-spin



    Buy Now

    No bolts and it comes apart to stow in the trunk, drop the frame in a canvas duffle and good to go.

    photo.jpg


    Yeah, I know its rotated, I am using the stock image and thats the way it transfers over.
     
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    #20
    jcvibby said:
    Yeah that is just too darn heavy. A 24x24 inch plate will way around 70 pounds. Quite a lot of weight to put on a piece of rebar.

    Sometimes if I have a heavier plate like that,
    I try to find some square tubing. Then the stands actually fit OVER the tube legs. The square tube is super strong and will hold up hundreds of pounds.

    Or you can really use anything, the rebar is nice because its readily available and cheap, We find our for free at junkyards, in the back of our ranch equipment supply area etc.... But it has its limitations. But for something like a 12x12 target, or something like that, its perfect!
    Click to expand...

    The time is coming for me to hang the big piece of steel. Is this what you are talking about:

    Everbilt 36 in. x 1 in. x 1/16 in. Steel Square Tube-40260 at The Home Depot

    So i would just put it OVER the rebar or instead of it?
     
    #22
    Along the same topic. I just tried out a set of "last stand" rebar stand keepers. Not bad, not bad at all. 12" AR500 plate took 308 hits at 300 and 500 and did not tip over. Best part is how light everything is now. Need to wear good gloves though, because the copper jackets stick in them from the plate splash. All-in-all thumbs up. pic is shooped a little to remove personal info.


    http://www.laststands.com/
     

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    #24
    Not sure as I have not weight tested it. The rebar for the cross section is double, as to not sag. The gong in the pic is a 12", I will test it with more weight to see what it can handle.

    Edit:

    Weight tested and the most I would go is 55 lbs. Weird how weight jumps. I have a 3/8 12" gong and its only 13 lbs.

    The stand holds 70 lbs but you can see the strain. I put 90 lbs and it was a no go. The stand wants to fall left or right.

    I agree, it wont hold a 24" x 24" 3/8
     

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