Getting Set Up - Beginner

Changed

Major Hide Member
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 13, 2012
    1,624
    866
    All,

    I have read numerous posts about reloading for beginners. Everyone discusses the best Kits, and everyone says they started with "X Brand" kit. It seems that Ala Carte is the best way to purchase these items. Could you all recommend a list of Quality components to purchase? I'm really interested in a single stage press at this time.

    Thanks for the input!
     
    I typed this up for a guy who was intersted in a turret press on the old scout so thats why some of the stuff is phrased as such. But the list is pretty decent I think. I only linked grafs on each because thats where he had his links from originally. Get the stuff where you can find the lowest price.

    "Personally I would rock a single stage press first if you are wanting to load for precision and not have to worry about a turret and the multiple operations going on at the same time. I like doing all of a lot of brass at the same time so I can make sure than whatever tolerance Im trying to hold is maintained through out the entirety. Not that you cant get very good ammo out of it, its just compounding the things a new reloader has to focus on. For around the same price you could get a forester co ax which is the hot item right now but an rcbs or hornady or lee will get you going well enough at the differing price points. The forester goes on sale from time to time, I think I spent just over 3 on mine but cant remember exactly. grafs.com/dealer/product/202400

    Get a can of hornady one shot case lube, put your brass in a gallon ziploc, spray 3-4 seconds in to the bag, close it and shuffle them about to coat them all and then open it up to let it dry for a couple minutes. If you use too much lube it will dent the shoulders as liquids dont compress so it doesnt take a whole lot. I then resize right out of the bag. There are other waxes etc but the one shot is about as simple as I can imagine.

    Youll want the press and dies as you know. Both yours and my recommendation have primer seaters built into them but I prefer a hand primer, less material to dampen the feel you have from the primers, ie how much force it takes to seat them and whether or not your primer pockets are getting too loose which indicates youre nearing the end of its life. grafs.com/dealer/product/242157

    Youll want a scale. I use to use a rcbs 5-10 balance and it was good enough but time consuming. I have gone to the charge master and it cut out almost all of the time I used to spend weighting cases. With the balance you have to weight it all and be actively participating in it. with the charge master it automatically pours the powder and you can be doing another step, such as seating the bullet. Weighing powder used to take up half my time, now its less than 10% of my time I would say. You can also get a powder dump to get he rough charge and then a trickler to bring it up to the exact weight you want which will save time over manually filling the powder pan as well but it does take more time/focus. grafs.com/dealer/product/212048

    Youll want brass tools, starting with the hornady/sinclair head space tool. Factory brass is sized to minimum saami specs and when it is fired it expands to your chamber. If you resize it back to saami spec you will be working the brass much more than necessary and that equates to less brass life. With the headspace kits you can get a measure of your fired brass and then use it to guide youre die set up. With a bolt youll only need to take it back .002", semi auto will be .003-4 so that you an get reliable cycling. saami spec sometimes can be .01" shorter, so essentially 2-5x more sizing than necessary for your rifle. grafs.com/dealer/product/204874

    A set of calipers so you can take your measurements properly. I started with a dial set but when using the headspace kits its really nice to be able to zero a digital with the kit on it rather than having to always subtract or account for the difference between the absolute zero and the zero with the kit installed. grafs.com/dealer/product/387047

    Youll want a brass trimmer/chamfer/deburrer. Since youre doing 338 I bet you would be fine with a manual hand operation for them as I doubt youll be running through hundreds at a time like people do bulk 223 etc so it wont be as monotonous as it could be. I have been using the hand tools to accomplish this but in the next month or two I will likely go to a giraud triway so I can trim and chamfer in once step quickly rather than three separate steps as I do now (time savings really make it more enjoyable) Some people, me included, clean the prime pockets but there are differing opinions on whether it actually helps. I only do it because at the time I got my chamfer tools and stuf I needed a buck or two more to hit the free shiping level so I added it on, and Im going to use what I paid for so thats a step I have adopted.

    Trays are nice so that you can set all your brass in it and not worry about a piece falling over and domino effecting your entire table full. It also allows me to keep track of whats been done to what. Ex, I have all the trimmed brass with the case mouths up, and when I prime Ill put the primer up so that I can ensure than I remember to prime every one. Filling an unprimed case with powder and then picking it up to move and spill everywhere is a pain in the butt as the powder will go everywhere you dont want it to so Ive taken to these little steps to keep track of myself.

    Eventually youll want to clean brass so a tumbler or ultrasonic but for the first couple firings I dont see you having too much of an issue pushing it off until you get a taste for reloading. Some people are more anal about cleanliness and dont want the fouling getting in their dies but I went years with out any ill effect from leaving it as is before I started.



    Youll find that you can go cheap but that path usually adds a significant amount of time (and no one can have too much of that) to each step."
     
    So
    Press- Coax, rockchucker, redding lyman hornady etc will all be fine options, if not a coax you will need shell holders
    Dies- Full length sizing and a seater for what you intend to reload
    Scale- digital or analog, manual or automated.
    Trimer- a WFT or Triway are the go tos with the triway including the chamfer/deburr all in one. Or the more old school lathe if you can find a good price on them, theyll just take longer
    Lube- imperial wax or one shot or make your own lanolin
    Calipers- the more expensive are better but really how much better than .001 do you need.
    Case/headpsace gauge- get the hornady comparator with the headspace bushings and then the ogive bushings.
    Primer tool- you can use the built in function on presses but a hand primer is much quicker

    That is pretty much the minimum necessary in my opinion. Shop around for each tool at various places and see what shop has this or that for cheaper.

    It can get expensive fast but unless youre doing large quantities its not really worth it for a lot of the stuff.
     
    I like Spife's list. I would suggest placing a priority on quality over anything else, and get the best you can afford, even if you can't get it all at once.

    I've done all my rifle reloading on a Rockchucker that I've had for over 35 years. Any of those brands are fine choices, but if they have different models go for the better one (for example, pick the Rockchucker over Partner in RCBS line).

    Priming Tool - I absolutely LOVE the RCBS bench priming tool (Automatic Bench Priming Tool). It is so slick to run, and I highly recommend it, and it doesn't cost much more than a hand primer.
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/45...h-priming-tool

    Dies - The best advice I ever got to improve my loads was to switch to the Redding S-Type (bushing) Full-Length Sizing Die. Set it up so that you are full-length sizing and bumping the shoulder back 0.001-0.002", and select a bushing that gives you about .002" neck tension and you will have good results. For the seating die, I'd definitely recommend a micrometer-type, either the Redding Competition Seating Die, or the Forster Ultra Seating Die (my preference).

    Trimmer - I'd love to try a WFT, but I haven't had the opportunity. For the lathe type, the one made by Wilson Tool and Gauge is super nice, and I like it better than the others out there.

    Lube - Imperial Die Wax is my favorite.

    Calipers - I have an expensive set of Mitutoyo digitals, and a cheap Harbor Freight dial caliper. They both always measure the same! I find myself reaching for the dial caliper more often, but I trust it because it has been verified. If I bought another cheap one, I wouldn't trust it until I could verify it is accurate.

    Headspace gauge/Bullet comparators - the Hornady stuff is fine, but Sinclair makes their own version that is at least as nice. Depending on caliber, you may end up making the choice based on availability like I did. You need the bullet comparator for your bullet caliber to measure bullet-seating depth, and a headspace (shoulder "bump") gauge for your specific cartridge. You will also need the Body, which holds either of these gauge inserts, and attaches to your calipers.

    Powder measure and Trickler - You need them, but take your pick. I'm sure they all work OK. Personally, I have an RCBS measure, and a Redding trickler.

    I agree with Spife that list will get you going. Here's some other things that are very handy, and not too expensive:

    *Vibratory case cleaner - does a decent job using corncob or ground walnut shell media, and less expensive than stainless steel tumbling.

    *Decapping die - it's impossible to get a good headspace measurement on a fired case with a spent primer in place. You need to remove the primer before measuring the case for pre- and post- shoulder bump. It can be done manually, but not very much fun. A decapping die isn't expensive and will be MUCH faster. Sinclair makes a great one, but there are many available for about 20 bucks. Your resizing die will decap, but then the case is already resized, so you can't get your initial, as-fired, pre-sizing headspace length. I usually decap anywhere from 10-20 of a lot of brass, enough to establish a consistent as-fired measurement, then let the rest wait until they go through the sizing die to get decapped.

    *Case Neck Expander die - Many people find the expander ball on the resizing die can be a major source of increased bullet runout. I run my dies without one, but if you get a dented case neck you have to be able to expand it (new brass often has lots of dented case mouths if delivered loose in a bag, plus you drop the occasional one on the concrete floor and they always seem to hit on the mouth).
     
    Last edited:
    All,

    I have read numerous posts about reloading for beginners. Everyone discusses the best Kits, and everyone says they started with "X Brand" kit. It seems that Ala Carte is the best way to purchase these items. Could you all recommend a list of Quality components to purchase? I'm really interested in a single stage press at this time.

    Thanks for the input!

    this is what I would suggest doing,,,,,,, and trust me i'm just not doing this just so you watch my videos... it would take 10years of people watching all of these videos to get back the money I spent on the reloads shot in this video series...... seriously.... wish I was kidding...... LOL!

    watch this video series I did out of the kindness of my heart ;) and get a solid idea WHY you need "such and such" equipment... I would advise a borderline "buy once cry once" method to getting your equipment... buy what you can barely afford IF you're going down this road of reloading BECAUSE you enjoy it.... if you doing this to save money, then stop here as you will get burned out..... fast...

    take note for bolt actions there are numerous and other better sizing die options rather than just full length resizing:

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...D6VfMZlnsNkpK0