Here's an 'off-the-wall' help/assistance request, for ya'll out there. (Appliances)

Sean the Nailer

Sean the Nailer

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
    • May 20, 2006
    7,070
    11,124
    Winnipeg, Mb.
    #1
    Anyone (or know of anyone) who's an appliance repairman/woman? Specifically, an Electrolux built-in oven with a circuit-board issue.



    And yes, I've called Electrolux themselves, and due to my 'situation' they won't help me. It's a long story, and I can't say that I blame them, but I didn't know the situation until way too late, after-the-fact.



    I simply need a particular resistor identified, on a particular board. And so far, this question is OBVIOUSLY way too technical for any of the "general parts sales persons" whom answer the telephones.



    So I'm reaching out to anyone and everyone, because somebody out there has to know somebody..... please!



    Then, when we get the oven back up and working, My Lady will be happy again, and we can get out shooting again! (See, this is shooting related!!!!!!)


     
    #2
    Most schematics are not that detailed . If you have enough info on what you're looking for I would try to find a nerd/engineer who does electronics as a hobby .
     
    #3
    If its just a resistor go to any decent electronics repair shop. They are all color coded as to values. If youve got a photo you could email it to him. Solder the old one out new one in, Should be a piece of cake.
     
    #4
    Sean,

    As stated, if you know which resistor is bad it's really very simple replacing one, or a capacitor, or a diode, yada yada. I was in the business of Printed Circuit Board Stuffing overseas for 3 yrs, and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express, just not recently. Here's a simple chart. Tad of solder, soldering iron, the correct component, few cold beers, and Walla Walla Washington you got it. ;)



    resistor-color-code-chart-3.png
     
    #5
    Do an internet search with model number of the oven. You may be pleasantly surprised. I did a search on a Samsung flatscreen TV and found tons of info. People had even put together a parts kit of all the items I needed to change out on the circuit board. I ordered the kit and changed about a dozen transistors etc on the main board and my son got a free working flatscreen out of the deal. about 25 bucks for the kit.
     
    #6
    Voltmeter, schematic, and you should be good to go. Should just need to check for ohms or resistance, locate the problem, and replace/repair with a solder iron. Unless the board is completely fried, and for the price I was quoted, it may be better shopping for a new one.
     
    #7
    post a picture. a lot of the newer resistors are square and look more like a transistor. if it isn't burnt to crap it should have a number on it. Also If you know what board it is you can more than likely buy the whole board for not to much $$$.
     
    #8
    Gentlemen, thank you all for the responses. Here's the deal, to go into further detail. I do have the board, it is in the oven. Specifically, it is a double-oven. The bottom one works perfectly fine, the top one does not.
    This is the fault of the resistor. I'm pretty sure it is a resistor, as the pictures on the innerwebz show a blue body.
    The resistor in question here, not only did it let out all the 'magic smoke', but it seems to have literally explodicated. The only thing showing is the two leads. I was simply going to solder another one onto the existing leads.

    I have a picture of the board, that I took, here.

    I have found pictures of 'new boards' on the interwebz but they are so bad that the band-colors are illegible and blowing the pic up simply pixelates everything.
    I have tried dealing with Electrolux themselves, but because of the deal made with the salesman at the (used) appliance store, Electrolux won't help me at all.
    The used appliance store is gone, so that's out too.
    Aftermarket appliance parts suppliers can all get the new board, but it is 6-8 weeks out, and around $300.00 paid up front. I'd rather simply replace the guilty resistor first, to see if that gets us back on track.

    Here is a pic that I took, of our board:
     

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    #9
    (still figuring out how to do multiple, descriptive pictures on one post, but anyways....)

    Here is one from the innerwebz that I was trying to decypher, to no avail: (the picture is inverted, and the resistor in question is "top/center", whereas in my picture (1 post above) it is bottom center)
    [to make things interestinger, seeing as it is a double oven, one question I have is, is the resistor for the top oven THE SAME as the one for the bottom oven? Those large, black, odd-shaped do-hickey's are relays for each oven. Ergo, the blue resistor beside each are the ones in question. BUT ARE THEY THE SAME?????? I have no way of knowing, and I'm not about to just throw anything at this board. The front display touch-panel has already been replaced, and that was cubic-dollars in itself. But another story, so I'll shut up about it for now.]
     

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    #10
    Lastly, blowing the heck out of the good picture that I have, of the OTHER R1 Resistor, the colors look to be:
    Red Red Brown Black - Brown --- Which then tells me that it is:
    2,200 Ohms with a 1% Tolerance.

    Does this not look like a 1/2 watt resistor to ya'll, size-wise?

    I can share these pics via email, if anyone else wants to see them 'better'.... or if you have access to schematics I can give you a model number from the Oven. Or the board has numbers on it, too. Wide open to options here.
     
    #12
    Resister code values:
    Black, brown, red, orange yellow, green blue violet gray white = 0>9

    I was taught in high school to remember the sequence by this lymric:
    Bad boys rape our young girls, but Virginia goes willingly.

    It’s been 32 years and I still remember that…hmm…
     
    #14
    Tucker301 said:
    But what made the resistor explode? And will it blow up the replacement too?
    Click to expand...

    I'm first leaning towards the 'bad resistors' that came out of China about a decade ago. They had the run of bad capacitors too, which is why so many people's motherboards were blowing, quite some time ago.

    So my plan is, to first do what I can to replace the resistor. Then I'll test what I can for each circuit, as we do have the 'other' oven circuit to compare to. If that doesn't work, then I'll have to invent Plan B. While it is not impossible, the chances of something else catastrophically wrong are very remote. MAYBE, one of the relays is a culprit, but first thing's first.

    The symptom that started all this, is the top oven would come up to temperature, tone, then continue heating. And continue and continue and continue. IIRC, it was the base element (there are 3 in each oven) that would not stop heating, and I'm thinking the break in the circuit due to the resistor is the issue.

    This thing is fancy-schmancy,,,, and we weren't in the market for it, or anything like it. We were looking for a fridge that worked for us better. The salesman/owner gave us a deal we couldn't refuse on the fridge, built-in oven, and gas cooktop grill.

    So, as per a previous thread in the old 'Hide, we jumped at the chance. Thing is though, how the guy wrote up the invoice, he ended up paying us to take the oven away. (yes, you read that right) But we had to do some major changing around in our kitchen, because of these new (used) appliances. And this happened over a year after our purchase, so the 'store warranty' was over. And now the store itself is gone. So simply going back wasn't an option. And due to many (unrelated) issues, we've just been using the top oven for cookery storage for some time now. But now, My Lady wants to have the use of both her ovens. A number of large family shin-dig's and whatnot this summer are planned here, and she's put her foot down.

    A guy can only do so much with the budget he's got, and bank-robbery isn't exactly my forte. Though some days.....

    Hence why I'm starting at the smallest, obvious'est, and easiest. Oh yeah, and cheapest too.
     
    #15
    Sean the Nailer said:
    I'm first leaning towards the 'bad resistors' that came out of China about a decade ago. They had the run of bad capacitors too, which is why so many people's motherboards were blowing, quite some time ago.
    Click to expand...

    Yep. I've seen plenty of them on PC motherboards. I have a guy who fixes them right up for me. I wish you were close by. He's a genius with the stuff.
     
    #16
    I've got an idea for you. If the resistor actually blew, why not just temporarily jump one in with test leads and apply power. If it works, then unsolder and replace it with the new one.
     
    #18
    Fifth pic in this listing is as good as I could get.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/316443919-Dual-Oven-Realy-Control-Board-Frigidaire-/141807358358

    That is either
    Red-Red-Brown-Black-Brown = 221ohm +\- 1%
    or
    Violete-Violete-Brown-Black-Brown = 771ohm +\- 1%

    Get a couple of each and start with the 771ohm, if oven doesn't function or seems under-powered, try the 221ohm.
    Or (if you have the skill) you could pull the board and determine the correct resistance value based on the circuit topology.

    That said, you may just want to buy a board for $100. Even the badly manufactured resistors don't often explode without a major current spike. I'd wager one of those relays is toast as well; and those can be a bitch to diagnose without depopulating the board.
     
    #19
    Based on the pic of the traces in the ebay ad, you should also check relay K2, the input side of the transformer, and whatever the white wire in your pic (in the 9 pin header) connects to for shorts.

    ETA:
    Trace runs: P2 (red wire/white strip)-->K2 (at rest)-->R2-->white wire/post 2 of the transformer (supply side).

    I can't get a good view of the transformer tag and have no idea what P2 or the white wire service (though I suspect P2 is mains power?) so that's as much help as I can give with the info I have.

    If the K1 side of the board feeds power to the lower oven (working) and K2 side of the board feeds the upper oven (broken) then R1 is probably equal to R2. The center of the board is just 12vdc logic to switch the relays. The R1 trace is exactly like the R2 trace: P1-->K1-->R1-->pin 1 of 9 pin header (pin closest to R1). Only difference is R1 doesn't feed a transformer, but the transformer only feeds the logic components 12vdc and transformers rarely fail. I'd start with the white wire and see what it feeds (perhaps the previously mentioned bad touch panel)?
     
    Last edited:
    #21
    Gentlemen.... Thank You!

    I can't tell you how much I appreciate the input, help, and detail that ya'll are. This definitely gives me something to work with. Further investigation to commence, as soon as I/we are finished with the mudding/taping/painting/re-assembling of certain areas of the house My Lady has decided needs to look better for aforementioned shindig.

    As I have had my eyes approximately 8" from said board, I can definitely say that the R1 is "Red Red Brown Black". One suggestion is that R2 should be the same. My suspicion from the start, but what do I know. Tucker suggests that it might be "Violet Violet Brown Black". That might very well be, as per the picture ya'll found. Does the "Blue" backgound of the resister itself, and the quality of the picture/lighting taken throw said color off? I have no idea. (Red + Blue = Violet)

    Just throwing a touch of supposition out there, mainly because it goes towards my previous question of "what will I nuke if I install the wrong one". And the point of the crux of that matter, answered above, is "if oven doesn't function or seems under-powered, try the 221ohm."

    THAT is huge for me, because nobody suggested "if the LED's don't blow themselves out of the front display OR Corona discharge between the relays" (a little humor there, but you get my 'gist, right?)

    As soon as I am able, we shall continue with this. It starts by pulling the oven out of the hole in the wall, and that isn't the easiest to do in itself, considering what is involved in supporting the front.

    What an incredibly eclectic group of individuals.
     
    #23
    Excellent. I've no idea how you did that, but I can't argue with that at all.

    The only other (elementary) question still unanswered, is the size of the resistor. As I didn't actually measure it, just by viewing the pictures it looks like a 1/2W resistor, right?

    Our local supplier (all one of them) has very little on hand, so I'll have to order whatever is needed. And for the record, being up here in Canada, any board I've been able to find so far, would bring me to between $200 and $300 bucks Canuckian after shipping and customs and whatnot. That border crossing and currency difference REALLY throws people off, so they have to compensate. So it seems, anyways.
     
    #28
    I can find drawings and shitty photos of it, but nothing better than what we already have. Even found the manufacturer's build sheet, but I can't see the resistor values on it.
    Reman boards on Ebay for ~$90 US, but no go for Canada. I'm out of resources.
     
    #29
    The resistor's physical size looks like it's a 1/4 watt. If it were me, I would put a 1/2 watt in.

    I've had a few appliances that I have fixed that I swear to God, the manufacturers designed certain parts to be marginal, lasting one day beyond the warranty period. I have a Bosch dishwasher that I had to replace (burned up) solder traces with hard wire on a circuit board. Originally, it ran about three years, then failed. I troubleshot it, replaced with solid wire and I think it's been running about 10 years now.
     
    #31
    Threadcutter308 said:
    The resistor's physical size looks like it's a 1/4 watt. If it were me, I would put a 1/2 watt in.

    I've had a few appliances that I have fixed that I swear to God, the manufacturers designed certain parts to be marginal, lasting one day beyond the warranty period. I have a Bosch dishwasher that I had to replace (burned up) solder traces with hard wire on a circuit board. Originally, it ran about three years, then failed. I troubleshot it, replaced with solid wire and I think it's been running about 10 years now.
    Click to expand...

    I'm also leaning towards the 1/2watt version, simply because Overkill is Under-rated. Thing is though, we're in the middle of a National Holiday long weekend here. Won't be able to look at ordering anything until Tuesday.

    Packrat:
    If you want I'll go to a parts house and check on getting the board. Then mail it to you

    I might just take you up on that offer. Let me see what I can do here, first.
     
    #32
    I also viewed the color bands as violet and agree with tucker that they probably are (770ohm being about right for a voltage step down from 240vac to 120vac). My initial thought was 3x violet/black/violet = 777ohm +/- 0.1%. But without knowing what its job is I am hesitant to commit to that. Note that the idea R1 and R2 are the same is contingent upon the supposition that they each feed a single section of the oven. Even if they do, they may not be the same depending on configuration (top oven has broiler but bottom oven doesn't, or different wattage coils top/bottom if the resistor is a ground/neutral limit rather than voltage step down etc). But if you start with the higher ohm, then your potential to damage the circuit while you check function is greatly reduced (most components being more sensitive to extra power than insufficient power).

    For similar reasons I would get 1watt resistors if I could. I would say that is at least a 1/2w unit. But higher wattage than needed causes no damage to the ancillary components while too low of a wattage rating would at the very least put you right back where you are (exploded resistor). It is common practice to double the needed wattage as a safety factor, but you can ad 1000% safety margin with no ill effects. It isn't supposed to act as a fuse in any configuration (except in yours apparently ;)).

    I would also suggest you buy a unit with flame retardant coatings. Digikey lists this model:
    https://www.digikey.com/product-det...cs-inc/RNMF12FTC221R/RNMF12FTC221R-ND/1683299

    Shoot me a pm (or quote my post) when you have had a chance to dig into it and answer some questions, as I may not remember to check back without a reminder. Backward engineering a resistor remotely isn't likely to pop into my head when I think "what's going on at the hide today" :cool:
     
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