DLC recomendations
- Thread starter tacticalpanda
- Start date
I've sent mine to Chad at Club Custom in North Carolina about a week ago. At the time he said his lead time was about 3-6 weeks though just a heads up. For an additional charge he will polish your lug raceways and bolt before the DLC . A nice touch to add if you want.
He's an easygoing guy and easy to get in touch with, just google Club Custom Guns and his site will pop up with the contact information. He is the one who Defiance Machine has been using to do DLC work for their actions when customers specify a DLC coating. He does work for a couple other companies too.
I'm sure there are other great guys out there that offer DLC, he's just the only one I've contacted personally.
He's an easygoing guy and easy to get in touch with, just google Club Custom Guns and his site will pop up with the contact information. He is the one who Defiance Machine has been using to do DLC work for their actions when customers specify a DLC coating. He does work for a couple other companies too.
I'm sure there are other great guys out there that offer DLC, he's just the only one I've contacted personally.
I'll be ordering a Defiance Deviant next week and I'm really debating whether or not to have it sent off for DLC coating. This will be my first non-Rem700 custom action and I'm leaning towards the 'buy once, cry once' theory but do want to validate it's worth it. What are you really gaining with this? Less worries with corrosion? A slicker, smoother running bolt?
To add to Chad's merit, he does SAC work as well. Did my Tempest and is DLCing my dad's SR3 reciever.
For a custom i wholeheartedly recommend it, and wont be going back from it. I've used my tempest for the last year or so, have a little over 600rds through it, and i adore it. With lube DLC is slick as can be, it glides so to speak. Also every single custom cerakoted action i've handled felt gummy, so i stayed away from it with my tempest. Is DLC expensive? Yes. Is it worth it? Absolutely.
Nitride might be a little cheaper if you're goal is a high lubricity type coating that's thin, so the action will be slick.
The bolt is coated in NP3. Receiver is bare. I don't think there would be a con to doing both with DLC because it's so thin (2 microns or so) but if you're wanting to do the bolt too it wouldn't be a bad idea to give Bighorn a call.
Whatever you do, don't send it to Richter. They've fucked a couple of us over pretty good and could care less.
This..... they expect you to eat costs to have them redo their fuck ups. Oh and you have to get back in line which they tell you is 3 weeks but Is really 8 weeks.
Watch the processing temperature of whichever coating you choose, I know some guys like to run the PVD machines hotter, and nitriding can get up there to (gas vs. ion nitriding). I think you should be good in most instances, though you don't want to dick up the heat treatment of the metal that's containing your boom-boom.
Not to mention FFL fees since they won't deal directly with customers, shit QC (if that's actually true that they have QC), coat ting specialists that don't have a clue what their talking about... waisted a solid 2-3 months of my time with my action off being coated 3 times and still couldn't get it right....
tactical panda, the bolt of the tl3 is already coated with np3, It is hard to improve on IMO. I would leave it alone and just DLC coat the receiver. you'll like it. I have a ion bonded borden that is on it's fourth barrel and it's held up well, the only spots that show wear is a couple of spots where the lugs and shroud ride on the rails.
Idahoorion
Idahoorion
You should talk to Aaron at Bighorn before doing this. The bolt isn't just coated in nickel-boron, it also has a DLC-like coating on it as well (some sort of PVD coating, can't remember the name). I was considering having the same thing done, but the bolt should be good to go as is. Not sure about the raceway.
Ionbond does the work. Various smiths do the prep work and send it to their facility in SC, I believe.
There is 5 to 7 microns of electroless Nickel which then gets coated with plasma assisted Tungsten DLC or WDLC.
There is nothing wrong with getting your action ferritic nitrocarburized AND then coated with DLC *HOWEVER* there will be a very small change in geometry from the ferritic nitrocarburization process or at least it should be critically examined such that the bolt does not bind in the receiver.
Any polishing or truing should be done first even though there is some polishing to the surface after the "QPQ Process".
I don't think there would be a better method available to us than what I've described. For the bolt I'd Salt Bath Nitride, polish and then Nickel Boron. It's soft. It will wear. But you do not really want surfaces of identical hardness running against one another. One will be the sacrificial surface. Not that they would not last a lifetime as they are.
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There is 5 to 7 microns of electroless Nickel which then gets coated with plasma assisted Tungsten DLC or WDLC.
There is nothing wrong with getting your action ferritic nitrocarburized AND then coated with DLC *HOWEVER* there will be a very small change in geometry from the ferritic nitrocarburization process or at least it should be critically examined such that the bolt does not bind in the receiver.
Any polishing or truing should be done first even though there is some polishing to the surface after the "QPQ Process".
I don't think there would be a better method available to us than what I've described. For the bolt I'd Salt Bath Nitride, polish and then Nickel Boron. It's soft. It will wear. But you do not really want surfaces of identical hardness running against one another. One will be the sacrificial surface. Not that they would not last a lifetime as they are.
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I'm thinking about getting my TL3s DLC coated. For those of you who have done it, what type of surface prep do you prefer? Blasted for a "satin" look, or as is?
I went as is on both of my actions with matte black. Went Satin for my tempest (no prep) and it has a bit of a sheen to it and wanted matte this time around. The satin finish can almost give off a gray to it in some respects.
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Okay guys, im about to blow your guys' minds with my stupidity, but i want to ask:
Can polishing the TL3 receiver's lug/bolt raceway change the surface/dimensions enough to negatively affect the action in terms of bolt binding? Does polishing remove alot of material in there? Or can polishing only help?
I had Chad polish mine before DLC.
Can polishing the TL3 receiver's lug/bolt raceway change the surface/dimensions enough to negatively affect the action in terms of bolt binding? Does polishing remove alot of material in there? Or can polishing only help?
I had Chad polish mine before DLC.
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While i don't really have the answer, i had him polish my Tempest. I wouldn't be worried about it. Truthfully bolt binding is hard for me to understand less the user is intentionally intending to bind any action. Less you have a factory action way out of spec. I haven't had my tempest bind at all. I've never bound my 700 and it has plenty of play.
I didn't get dad's SR3 polished solely to save money, i'm sure it will be plenty smooth regardless.
If i were to send my deviant receiver to get it DLC'd..and for lesser cost just sending bolt body and receiver only no parts (nor shrouds cocking piece etc)
And get those small parts ceracoated black?
Will ceracoating those small parts will effect let say the slickness of the bolt body and receiver from dlc coated?
And get those small parts ceracoated black?
Will ceracoating those small parts will effect let say the slickness of the bolt body and receiver from dlc coated?
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