Proof Barrel break in

[WtxShooter]

So I’ve recently purchased my first Proof barrel and paired it up with a Surgeon action. It’s chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and I set this up for a primarily hunting rifle, then precision shooting after. My question is, how many rounds are you guys typically seeing before your groups get respectable? I have had 3 other rifles made or rebarreled, (2 in 6.5 Creedmoor, 1 in 6mm Creedmoor), and they’ve at least had sub-MOA grouping within the first 50 rounds. This particular rifle, however, is not good at all. Best 5 shot group is 1.27” after 50 rounds. 20 rounds of Hornady 140 grain A-Max, 30 rounds of Prime 130 grain. The Hornady had the better groups, but the Prime had the best velocity and the better SD. Just curious if I should start to worry, or give it more time. Any input is GREATLY appreciated.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

That’s pretty shitty, the barrel should be accurate from the start. Did a reputable gunsmith do the work? Have you verified that everything is properly torqued?

 

[blackblue]

What barrel length is that and it's that mardi gras molded color?

 

[WtxShooter]

What barrel length is that and it's that mardi gras molded color?

Ha! No, that’d be a salt Camo from Core. And it’s a 20” barrel that is exclusively shot suppressed. As far as the Smith is concerned, that’s my concern. He’s new to me, but was highly recommended by a few of my friends. So I’m gonna give it a bit, and then approaching that issue.

 

[Supersubes]

It should shoot from round number one. Have you tried it unsuppressed? Have you measured any fired brass to compare with virgin. Do you have a concentricity gauge to check the run-out on the fired brass?

 

[TheGerman]

- Take the action screws out and put them back in at whatever your required/desired in/lb torque is; also make sure nothing weird is going on with the stock/action/bottom metal fit
- Shoot it without the suppressor; some suppressor/barrel/barrel length combinatrions have totally fucked the harmonics of a gun up before
- Put the optic from one of your known sub MOA guns on this one and shoot
- Check the crown with a flashlight as best you can
- Measure where the lands are; for all you know you're jumping the bullet 5 times longer than you should be, etc
- Check to make sure the barrel is actually free floating
- Check the usual things everyone usually checks but it can be that anyways; scope rings, mount, etc

 

[IanHusaberg]

It should shoot know loads decently(some good groups<1") in the first hundred. I definitely see barrels speed up after 200-250 rounds. Maybe you should pick up a couple of different boxes of bullet manufacturer.

I've started to think you should't even chrono or have any expectations in that first 250. Then start load development. Or just shoot factory ammo.

I don't think that is the norm around here. If it was 6mm CM i'd be a little more worried, with the short barrel life.

Barrels are made in factories, NOT heaven!

Lemons do exist. You could contact proof first(Bad run?), then gunsmith second.

Are you a Sub-MOA shooter? I know I have good days and bad days as well. I always bring along a proven one-hole rimfire with me to get warmed up with at 50y. If i'm shooting good groups with the 22LR or 22WMR than its the rifle.

The German has quite a few valid points. Thats just a starting point.

On another note. Light rifles don't tend to shoot to well! Manners carbon stock? What does the rifle weigh? Do you have a Atlas bipod you could use?

 

[White Mamba]

Try removing the break

 

[nexusfire]

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

 

[Supersubes]

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

lt’s obviously threaded, but why would that require some round count to sort out?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

What?

 

[IanHusaberg]

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

This is news to me?

Last time I checked threading doesn't have anything to do with the crown of the barrel? On that note, I'm no gunsmith.

 

[Supersubes]

This is news to me?

Last time I checked threading doesn't have anything to do with the crown of the barrel? On that note, I'm no gunsmith.

You’re not wrong...

 

[nexusfire]

So you guys think threading a barrel can't affect accuracy?

 

[IanHusaberg]

So you guys think threading a barrel can't affect accuracy?

If your on drugs here, you should share with the rest of us?

 

[nexusfire]

If your on drugs here, you should share with the rest of us?

You're ignorant

 

[IanHusaberg]

You're ignorant

No. Just having a little fun at your expense!

Maybe if it was a thin hunting barrel. Thats not the case here, we're talking about a Proof, carbon, heavy barrel.

Where or when have you personally experienced problems with threading effecting accuracy?

 

[Supersubes]

So you guys think threading a barrel can't affect accuracy?

That wasn’t what you wrote. You wrote that it would take a certain number of rounds for it to come alive(due to being threaded alone), which is completely false. A poorly cut thread will not affect accuracy by itself. Screwing a muzzle brake onto a poorly cut thread certainly can though.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

So you guys think threading a barrel can't affect accuracy?

So what exactly "breaks in" on muzzle threads from firing?

I really hope people don't take your posts seriously if this is common.

 

[IanHusaberg]

To the OP. The only things that I can discern by looking at your photos is: Scope is really high above barrel (mount) and your harris is unusually high below your stock. What's going on with the bipod mount? This is just knit picking.

 

[308pirate]

Maybe it just doesn't like either of the two loads you bought for it.

 

[delfuego]

Try some different ammo...

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

Come alive?

 

[NateVA]

If it's threaded at the muzzle it may take about a hundred and fifty rounds for it to come alive

Why?

 

[Ledzep]

Looks like the gunsmith threaded the "dingus". I don't know what effect that would have on accuracy, if any, but Proof has a sticker that comes on these barrels from the factory that say to cut the skinny portion on the muzzle end off. It's an artifact of the carbon winding process.

I would try without the brake, if that doesn't work I'd have it crowned/rethreaded how it's supposed to be (maybe by a different guy???).

My Proof 6.5 SAUM was throwing good groups right off the bat.

 

[blackblue]

Looks Led is right I didn't even notice that by the pics earlier.

 

[Holliday]

ThunderBeast threaded my rifles and a pistol. I think they are still offering that service. First rate.....

 

[Holliday]

Looks like the gunsmith threaded the "dingus". I don't know what effect that would have on accuracy, if any, but Proof has a sticker that comes on these barrels from the factory that say to cut the skinny portion on the muzzle end off. It's an artifact of the carbon winding process.

Ouch! I would not be happy about that....

 

[Subwrx300]

I'm inclined to agree with Ledzep. Your barrel seems to have an awful lot of metal at the muzzle end compared to many of the Proof barrels I've seen here and elsewhere. I'd see if your Smith (or perhaps Proof if they'll cut and thread) can cut back and re-thread the muzzle.

Please post results once you get sorted. I'm curious about cause of your groups opening up.

 

[NateVA]

Looks like the gunsmith threaded the "dingus". I don't know what effect that would have on accuracy, if any, but Proof has a sticker that comes on these barrels from the factory that say to cut the skinny portion on the muzzle end off. It's an artifact of the carbon winding process.

I didn't even notice that before you mentioned it but I think you're right. When I put my muzzle brake on the end of my Proof, there's hardly more than 0.5" of steel showing. It's a Heathen brake so slightly different but still.

If so, OP may want to let that gunsmith know. Proof barrels sometimes get a bad rap from people who had their gun put together by a gunsmith who isn't experienced with carbon fiber barrels.

 

[Jackalope]

Mine was good from day one. Also a 20” 6.5mm. Ledzep may be on to something as my end shank is much shorter than yours.

 

[Supersubes]

Good catch Ledzep. I looked at all the contours on the proof site, and they were all the same.

 

[B-P-UU]

Word of the day: Dingus

 

[SmokyJoe]

The culprit may be the threaded dingus, but, I have a 22” Proof Sendero 6.5CM, with no dingus, that took 80 rounds to settle down. Went from ~1.2 moa to 0.48 moa over the course of too many rounds. Very frustrating but it now shoots pretty good. If I had it to do over I would have run 100 Prime 130 through before doing load development.

 

[1clicktrick]

So I’ve recently purchased my first Proof barrel and paired it up with a Surgeon action. It’s chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and I set this up for a primarily hunting rifle, then precision shooting after. My question is, how many rounds are you guys typically seeing before your groups get respectable? I have had 3 other rifles made or rebarreled, (2 in 6.5 Creedmoor, 1 in 6mm Creedmoor), and they’ve at least had sub-MOA grouping within the first 50 rounds. This particular rifle, however, is not good at all. Best 5 shot group is 1.27” after 50 rounds. 20 rounds of Hornady 140 grain A-Max, 30 rounds of Prime 130 grain. The Hornady had the better groups, but the Prime had the best velocity and the better SD. Just curious if I should start to worry, or give it more time. Any input is GREATLY appreciated.

Dang man. I had good groups shots 6-10. Did you figure anything out?

 

[Juggerxxx]

Here is my Proof barrel after 15 rounds. I have to assume there is an issue with your setup.

 

[Subwrx300]

Here is my Proof barrel after 15 rounds. I have to assume there is an issue with your setup.

I think I've got barrel envy. I want one.... Great shooting! What caliber?

 

[Greg Langelius *]

When a rifle won't shoot at least reasonably accurately for me from the first few rounds, I generally consider load compatibility.

As a handloader, I'll usually start with the preferred bullet and do a load workup. This will identify better loads and/or possibly disclose some sort of mechanical problem with the rifle.

For shooters who are restricted to factory ammo, this potential remedy isn't available. But buying a box or two of brands/loads which sample some significant variety in loads can get you at least partway to the same outcome.

If there's no joy after this, A) it's time to talk with the Smith, and B) you will at least have some solid evidence in your corner should the negotiations go sour.

Greg

 

[Juggerxxx]

I think I've got barrel envy. I want one.... Great shooting! What caliber?

It’s kind of cheating since it’s a 6.5CM.