I would appreciate thoughts and opinions on Remington 700 aac-sd in 6.5 Creedmoor. Bought this gun and can barely squeeze out 3/4 in” groups at 100 yards with rest and rear bags. It’s got a bell and Carlson medilist stock leupold mk4 6.5-20 ffp with tmr retical and 20 moa base. I’ve owned 700s since I was 14 and that was in that was a long time ago and have never had a problem with accuracy. I worked my loads up to 41.5 grns of h4350 and got about 5/8 of an inch. My 700 308 and 22-250 shoot 1/2 to 1/4 all day long. Am seating 142 smk 2.805 col. am long in the tooth but on good days can still shoot a fair group Have not cronoed this load but seems too be the best this rifle is going to get. Have not shot past 100 yards and have 100 rounds down range. Any thoughts I would appreciate as at 65 am still learning. I’ve loaded 140 smks 140 eldx and 140 barns match. 142 smks were most accurate as. I thought they would be Thanks
Remington 700 aac-sd
- Thread starter Jared308
- Start date
That’s what I have read. I was thinking about trueing the action and maybe a krieger barrel. That’s another grand. Any GREAT gunsmiths out there. Ps cant remember jump but it was significant. Keeping at 2.805 for magazine. Thought about 0.004 of lands but was planning on putting HS precision bottom metal on Thanks fellas
I think that the often used (and abused) belief that Remingtons QC or rather, lack there of is to blame for everything is bullshit. Granted that a Krieger barrel should outshoot a Remington factory tube, but the factory tube should prove to be usefull.
As an example, I have a factory Remington 700 Police in .300 win mag, it shoots terrible with 190 grain SMK and the likes, but it is an absolute tackdriver with Hornady ELD-X 212 grain and Lapua 220 Scenar-L. I also have a fully rebuilt and rebarreled Remington 700 with a Shilen match barrel chambered in 6,5x47 Lapua which is super accurate but a little slow, and any time I try to give it more juice or mess with COL the accuracy just falls of the table.
So, what I am trying to say is that I think it is more a question of finding bullets and chargeweights that works in your barrel, rather than falling in line with the regurgitated statement that everything is Remingtons fault.
First I would check the COL you are using. Dont use an extra long COL for the magazines sake. Try going a bit shorter. I am looking through Vihtavouris load data and I cant find anything above 2,8", most are around 2,7" for the 6.5CM. It might not make all the difference in the world, but it is worth a try. Some VLD bullets are more sensitive than others to freebore jump, some bullets just dont seem to care. I know some guys that run 6,5x55 Swede with extra short COL to fit them in AICS SA magazines, they have more than 1/4" freebore jump and yet they still hit steel beyond the 1000 meter mark.
As an example, I have a factory Remington 700 Police in .300 win mag, it shoots terrible with 190 grain SMK and the likes, but it is an absolute tackdriver with Hornady ELD-X 212 grain and Lapua 220 Scenar-L. I also have a fully rebuilt and rebarreled Remington 700 with a Shilen match barrel chambered in 6,5x47 Lapua which is super accurate but a little slow, and any time I try to give it more juice or mess with COL the accuracy just falls of the table.
So, what I am trying to say is that I think it is more a question of finding bullets and chargeweights that works in your barrel, rather than falling in line with the regurgitated statement that everything is Remingtons fault.
First I would check the COL you are using. Dont use an extra long COL for the magazines sake. Try going a bit shorter. I am looking through Vihtavouris load data and I cant find anything above 2,8", most are around 2,7" for the 6.5CM. It might not make all the difference in the world, but it is worth a try. Some VLD bullets are more sensitive than others to freebore jump, some bullets just dont seem to care. I know some guys that run 6,5x55 Swede with extra short COL to fit them in AICS SA magazines, they have more than 1/4" freebore jump and yet they still hit steel beyond the 1000 meter mark.
Thanks you’re absolutely right. Not giving up yet. The rifle is shooting better every range visit. I started with 2.800 col to 2.810 with no notable difference. I haven’t tried 130 grn smks yet. Have a timney 210 trigger set at factory Will try to reduce trigger eperiment with seating depths and bullet selection and buy a box of match ammo and see if I can ring out some groups i can post on SH. Thanks
Op.
I just ran the same gun. I had take offs that I added even before I shot it.
Huber trigger, MPA, Atlas, Good base rings and nice scope, APA, helfire all proven on several 1 hole guns.
I ran 3 types of my go to factory loads that shoots well in 4 other 6.5s and a couple handloads. The brand new barreled action, turned all my good parts into a crappy shooter.
Straggly the very best groups were about 3/4” only when I had the magneto speed attached. Without it, it ran 1-1/2”. Can’t Very well run around with the magneto speed permanently attached.
My advice is sell it, or true and rebarrel- don’t waste more ammo turning a fat pig into a less fat pig.
Mine could not even eject Prime, or Lapua but did Hornady.
I just ran the same gun. I had take offs that I added even before I shot it.
Huber trigger, MPA, Atlas, Good base rings and nice scope, APA, helfire all proven on several 1 hole guns.
I ran 3 types of my go to factory loads that shoots well in 4 other 6.5s and a couple handloads. The brand new barreled action, turned all my good parts into a crappy shooter.
Straggly the very best groups were about 3/4” only when I had the magneto speed attached. Without it, it ran 1-1/2”. Can’t Very well run around with the magneto speed permanently attached.
My advice is sell it, or true and rebarrel- don’t waste more ammo turning a fat pig into a less fat pig.
Mine could not even eject Prime, or Lapua but did Hornady.
Before you sink any more money in it, try a few more easy things in this order of easy to hard:
- Make sure the barrel is really free floated. Relieve stock material wherever it isn't.
- Buy a box of Tubb Final FInish bullets and fire lap that barrel. Follow the instructions that come with the bullets *to the letter*.
- Remove a small amount of material off the stock all around the contact surfaces to the action and bed it with an appropriate epoxy resin. See youtube for many ways of doing this.
Man, no disrespect, but that’s not what I’d call a shooter with hand loads. I get that you’re going to work seating next.
I’ve shot or been around plenty of older SPS in 308 that could shoot 1/2 and a few groups better with hand loads.
This is why Tikka and Ruger are so popular. Booth will shoot factor loads better than what the three of us are seeing and with hand loads even better.
Also, the best 3 round work up looks to be running very slow. Most people I know as well as myself are running around 42.5 H4350 in our 6.5s with 140s. Most want the speed to maximize the BC.
Thanks First thing I did was bed recoil lug recess as bell and Carlson lug channel is very wide so eliminated that problem. Action screws torked to specs and barrel is completely floated. I have never heated of the lapping bullets. That’s why I became a member am always learning Will check out the bullets Thanks
On average, a Howa 1500 will blow away any new production 700. You don't need a huge aftermarket when the rifle is done right to begin with.
Ten rounds from a bone stock Howa 1500 in a KRG chassis. Sub .75 MOA including the clean cold bore shot (upper left), sub .6 without it:
Ten rounds from a bone stock Howa 1500 in a KRG chassis. Sub .75 MOA including the clean cold bore shot (upper left), sub .6 without it:
Thanks. Always been a 700 guy. This is my last rifle. I have a 700 police in 308 that shoots 1/4 in. Bought in 94 and other than adjusting the trigger has shot that good out of the box. Going to work on getting a shooter or will true and rebarrel. Thanks for your input. If I was going to buy another rifle would probably start with a action and go from there. Thanks again
They are pretty easy to use. When an OEM barrel coppers up quickly or won't shoot after reasonable load development, hell yeah I'm loading up a set and sending them.
http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-bullet-kits/finalfinish-bulletkit-308
Thanks have fun. Am down with my back or would be out there today myself
I had a sps varmint in 243 a couple years ago that wouldn't shoot less than a 2.5 inch group. I shot everything under the sun thru it, nothing but frustration. Finally sent it to accurate ordnance for blueprint and rebarrel. Wasted 750 rounds trying to mess with it. My sps tactical 308 shoots lights out.
You probably would have the same issues. It's not the cartridge's fault that the rifle won't shoot. It's Remington's fault
What kind of barrel did you go with and cost if you don’t mind. I already have an extra two grand with optics and hardware and stock plus an additional 600 in reloading supplies as I’ve never loaded for 6.5 Creedmoor. Thanks. No I meant a 700 action and had trued and stocked with a krieger barrel. Know a guy in northern Colorado but he is always two years out. But you are right. If I would have bought a stock gun probably same issue. Thanks for your lmput. Love to talk guns
I used a rock creek barrel. Have a brux on it now. Threaded, cerakoted, trued, installed, shipped, barrel included, $1200.
No I ment a 700 action trued an chambered in 308 with a krieger barrel. But you’re probably right if I bought a stock gun. Thanks
will check them out thanks
Check out long rifles inc. They have some services such as time and tig bolt handle that I'm interested in. I might use them next time
I would add a good trigger and have the barrel recrowned before I drop a grand on it.
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