Lock tight
- Thread starter RTH1800
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I used to 271 Red, because mostly that's what people have on hand.
680 is what was specifically designed for bonding cylindrical parts.
They both work great I honestly cannot tell which one is better at this time.
www.henkel-adhesives.com
680 is what was specifically designed for bonding cylindrical parts.
They both work great I honestly cannot tell which one is better at this time.
LOCTITE® 680
LOCTITE® 680 is a green, high-strength, anaerobic-curing retaining compound for the assembly and attachment of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where low viscosity is required. The product prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration, and provides robust curing performance by...
www.henkel-adhesives.com
Sleeve retainer is what you want to use. It’s specifically made for that type of application. Just be prepared to replace the upper when you replace the barrel.
I can't say what it takes to remove the 680 since I only been using it for a couple of years and none of my barrels that I've used it on need to be replaced yet. But the red 271 you can scrape it out of there with a piece of plastic with the sharp edge. I just took a piece of half inch white PVC cuz it's hard and brittle and sharpen the outer edge and it scraped right out of there.
Just for fun I'm going to do a little experiment for you all. I seen a few post on here from other members that are concerned about removing the residual loctite when replacing the new Barrel.
Using Red 271 on a pair of scissors to simulate the loctite process. On the first blade it has been cleaned with a wire brush and as a very thin coat of oil to simulate the barrel extension. The second blade has been wirebrushed and roughed up with some Emery cloth and cleaned with carburetor cleaner to make sure that the loctite adheres to that side simulating the receiver.
I will let it sit overnight and tomorrow I will try various methods to remove the loctite, from chemical epoxy remover plastic scraper.
Using Red 271 on a pair of scissors to simulate the loctite process. On the first blade it has been cleaned with a wire brush and as a very thin coat of oil to simulate the barrel extension. The second blade has been wirebrushed and roughed up with some Emery cloth and cleaned with carburetor cleaner to make sure that the loctite adheres to that side simulating the receiver.
I will let it sit overnight and tomorrow I will try various methods to remove the loctite, from chemical epoxy remover plastic scraper.
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The results are in with the loctite removal. Applied three different methods scraping, chemical and heat
Scraping as I mentioned above is a efficient an easy method that won't harm your receiver.
chemical method was also extremely effective and I believe would work well on the any Loctite including 680, only disadvantage is it will take some of the anodizing off of the inside of the barrel extension channel of your upper receiver, so apply carefully with a Q-tip and nobody can see the inside of that channel anyway so you should be good to go.
And lastly a bit of heat, waved the flame over it for about a second and the last chunk just scraped off with my fingernail.
So there you have it three easy methods that will not physically harm any of your rifles components.
Scraping as I mentioned above is a efficient an easy method that won't harm your receiver.
chemical method was also extremely effective and I believe would work well on the any Loctite including 680, only disadvantage is it will take some of the anodizing off of the inside of the barrel extension channel of your upper receiver, so apply carefully with a Q-tip and nobody can see the inside of that channel anyway so you should be good to go.
And lastly a bit of heat, waved the flame over it for about a second and the last chunk just scraped off with my fingernail.
So there you have it three easy methods that will not physically harm any of your rifles components.
Sorry but your test is in no way relevant to the intended use of red loctite. It is used to keep threaded assemblies together. To seperate them they will need to be heated to 500+ degrees. Sleeve retainer is what the OP needs. Loctite make 3 grades with different gap filling abilities and heat ranges. You will also need heat to separate the barrel from the receiver.
No it is you that has completely missed the entire point. The OP just wanted to see how hard it is to remove loctite from a metallic surface, so that he doesn't damage his upper receiver. Red 271 is a great compromise because it doesn't require 500° to be removed and does its intended job perfectly. Again go back and read the OP comments he specifically does not want a sleeve retainer that damn near takes a hydraulic press to remove a barrel.
Nobody gives a shit what your opinion is on the intended use of this specific type of loctite, Red 271 and 680 have been used as a bonding agent/gap filler for (AR ASSEMBLY) for over a decade, And works rather efficiently. I first learned about the many uses in all its loctite varieties at Quantico for small arms and armory training.
But thank you very much for pointing out that it's a threadlocker.
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I don’t want to offend anyone and understand using locktite to fill in the gaps but why locktite it makes it so much harder to replace your barrel I have built at least 40 AR10 and AR15 and they all had enough torque on the barrel nut to keep it in place. Your filling in gaps between the receiver and barrel nut also which have no real affect in a free floated barrel. Just my opinion from my limited experience. I want to be able to take my barrel nuts back off some times I change handguards.
When you slide your barrel in just make sure to remove any Loctite that has been pushed out, apply some anti seize to the receiver threads and you won't have any issues removing handguards or barrel nuts. the whole point behind using the Loctite is you want to make the barrel and receiver fit as rigid as possible. There are a few companies like BCM that make it to where you can use the thermal fitting technique but more often than not most companies leave quite a bit of slop between the barrel extension and upper receiver thus the reason for using the Loctite to fill in any gaps and basically bedding the barrel to your upper.
Most of these techniques are really just splitting hairs and people who do Precision builds are trying to eliminate any and all variables that they possibly can. but if you're a person that burns through barrels quite frequently, you're probably not shooting Precision anyway so it wouldn't much matter.
We have been using Loctite since the early 90s, Derrick Martin of Accuracy Speaks(highpower shooter) was the first guy I ever saw mention it. This was back when Derrick, John Holliger and Frank White were probably the only 3 guys in the country building custom ARs. We used and still use plain old blue Loctite to make the connection more rigid. When you want to take the barrel out just tap it out with a wood dowel. It's a very simple thing that many make way too big of a deal out of it.
If you think we are putting it on the threads you don't understand why we use it.
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My apologies I read it
My apologies I read it wrong I know understand its between the barrel and receiver the get tighter tolerances. I’ve had barrels I’ve literally had to beat into the receiver but they were usual billet receivers and high end barrels. Not sure if I could have got some of them back out very easily after shooting 1000 rounds or more. I have an older AR I might try this on.
No reason to apologize brother that's what we're all here for, is to learn and pass what we've learned onto others.
Have you guys seen a before and after increase in accuracy from this not sure how many ARs I own currently somewhere between 7-9 and anywhere from a AR-9 to 458- Socom. I think some of the 223’s and maybe 300 BO could benefit from this.
If you have to tap the barrel extension into the receiver the connection is probably rigid enough and Loctite may not do anything at all. Squaring those receivers may not help either since the OD of the extension and ID of the receiver is what would align the barrel and receiver bore. Vltor Mur and what was Mega receievrs are known to be tight like that.
I do on precision builds, duty/combat rifles with red dots probably wont make any noticeable difference . The deal is the scope attaches to the receiver and the barrel to the receiver. That connection we are talking about is the bridge between the scope and barrel.
So are you talking about when the scope mount bridges across the rail into the barrel section. Sorry about all the questions I have a precision 224 Valkyrie I might mess around with.
No just meaning the barrel extension to receiver connection is important to get good scope to barrel rigidity for accuracy.
I guess I don’t understand what mean unless you scopes are mounted forward enough that they sit on the rail. All my scopes are mounted on the receiver only. Unless your talking about minamal movement in the barrel to keep the scope in line.
You guys are way overthinking this. I've pulled a few red loctited barrels now and all it takes is a wooden dowel and then any small scraping device within reach. Razor blade, sharp pick, jewelers screwdriver, literally almost anything.
The scope is attached to the receiver right?
The barrel is attached to the receiver right?
If the barrel is flopping around in the receiver the scope and barrel have no connection.
Why would you want a rigid connection to the receiver? I mean why do you think we use Loctite on the barrel extension?
The barrel is attached to the receiver right?
If the barrel is flopping around in the receiver the scope and barrel have no connection.
Why would you want a rigid connection to the receiver? I mean why do you think we use Loctite on the barrel extension?
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