Gunsmithing Collet Chuck lathe and chambering barrel.

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Minuteman
  • Aug 3, 2014
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    Is it possible?
    Hardinge lathe.

    I can easily make a spider for the other end but can’t think of a idea to indicate to concentric on the collet end.

    I don’t want to invest in a chuck and backplate as it’s not my lathe.

    I understand the diameter limitations but I’d do a savage type pre fit.
     

    Thanks for that!!!!
    Basically he’s running a spider on both end with the work end cut for the 4 degree taper and set screw.

    I think I can build that.
    His rear spider is a lot more elegant than how I planned to build it.

    That’s a clean way to do it.

    5C collets ?? The biggest size is 1 1/16th This may prove problematic for some barrels
    A 1 1/16 collet is big enough for savage style small shank barrels that I use but the set up in the video would eliminate that limitation for me.

    Win/win.
     
    Is it possible?
    Hardinge lathe.

    I can easily make a spider for the other end but can’t think of a idea to indicate to concentric on the collet end.

    I don’t want to invest in a chuck and backplate as it’s not my lathe.

    I understand the diameter limitations but I’d do a savage type pre fit.



    It works beyond your wildest dreams. Started doing this 15 or so years ago when I worked for Nesika. The Harrison cnc lathe we'd bought had not yet arrived and the "clunk o matic" that had been traditionally used needed to become fish habitat.

    Spooled up a spider, attached a 4 jaw chuck, and started laying the hate. I don't know of any, but if a guy could find an indicatable C16 type collet chuck to fit a Hardinge that would be an even better option. (A tall order as a C16 collet by itself is almost as big as the entire spindle assembly. The Hardinge chucks that I'm familiar with don't use a back plate. They attach to the tapered nose of the spindle. Slide it on, give it a turn, and not much else. Stupid simple and easy.

    This is the only way to thread on a manual machine. So easy...

    As for your question about dialing in the bore. There is another way, but its generally not thought of as the chosen path.

    Years ago I knew a guy who fit barrels by first throwing them between centers and running a "whisker pass" over the cylinder portion. The intent is to get the OD running common with the hole. From there he'd slap it in a 6 jaw and go to work. No spiders, no dials, no bullshit. In practice its really no different than threading on a steady rest. Just more rigid and void of all the contraptions strapped to the machines bedways.

    It raised eyebrows, especially when you'd go to the range and watch the gun stack em with 1/3moa groups at 200, 300, etc... The moral here is there are lots of ways to skin cats in this game. His was by far the most efficient way (that I've ever seen anyway) to get a stick hung and running on manual equipment.
     
    Last edited:
    It works beyond your wildest dreams. Started doing this 15 or so years ago when I worked for Nesika. The Harrison cnc lathe we'd bought had not yet arrived and the "clunk o matic" that had been traditionally used needed to become fish habitat.

    Spooled up a spider, attached a 4 jaw chuck, and started laying the hate. I don't know of any, but if a guy could find an indicatable C16 type collet chuck to fit a Hardinge that would be an even better option. (A tall order as a C16 collet by itself is almost as big as the entire spindle assembly. The Hardinge chucks that I'm familiar with don't use a back plate. They attach to the tapered nose of the spindle. Slide it on, give it a turn, and not much else. Stupid simple and easy.

    This is the only way to thread on a manual machine. So easy...

    As for your question about dialing in the bore. There is another way, but its generally not thought of as the chosen path.

    Years ago I knew a guy who fit barrels by first throwing them between centers and running a "whisker pass" over the cylinder portion. The intent is to get the OD running common with the hole. From there he'd slap it in a 6 jaw and go to work. No spiders, no dials, no bullshit. In practice its really no different than threading on a steady rest. Just more rigid and void of all the contraptions strapped to the machines bedways.

    It raised eyebrows, especially when you'd go to the range and watch the gun stack em with 1/3moa groups at 200, 300, etc... The moral here is there are lots of ways to skin cats in this game. His was by far the most efficient way (that I've ever seen anyway) to get a stick hung and running on manual equipment.

    I’m guessing the C16 is the collet system I’ve seen CNC guys use.
    I was wondering how they did it, didn’t know it was an adjustable collet system.

    It was that system that kinda instigating this thread as I was ignorant of an indicatable collet system.


    I thought about what you said about trueing the cylinder to the bore, obviously you can’t account to bore curvature that way.

    I’ve been told that many factory barrels are basically indicated on either end then chambered ignoring curvature.
    Plenty of them shoot.
     
    Last edited:
    A 1 1/16 collet is big enough for savage style small shank barrels that I use but the set up in the video would eliminate that limitation for me.

    Win/win.

    Make sure to order 5C collets without the internal work stop threads if plan on through feeding larger than about 15/16” (can’t remember the exact max diameter off the top of my head).
     
    Make sure to order 5C collets without the internal work stop threads if plan on through feeding larger than about 15/16” (can’t remember the exact max diameter off the top of my head).

    I already have collets with and without.

    I Plan on not using the collets now anyways and building a 4degree taper mount spider like the first video.

    Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
    Was really helpful.
     
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    Reactions: DAVETOOLEY
    How is the precise "zero" of the spindle centerline determined and set with that setup?

    I cannot understand how tool height in a typical (BXA I'm guessing) holder can be precisely set as well. There would be minimal tolerance here when it comes to turning or threading, but getting a reamer absolutely dead nuts to a tenth or two?

    Relying on the reamer to precisely follow the bored hole?
     
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    Reactions: RickB


    Here's the video I meant to post he explains the mods a little more.

    reading some of the older posts and saw your video, what a beautiful Hardinge you have. I see Babbin rebuilt it. I own a older TL-5, 1952, has the split bed and electronic leadscrew. Fighting the battle to make a spider now as I don't have a mill