Good powder for relaoding 308?
- Thread starter Chris777
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Cuz it’s most insensitive to temperature.
IMR 4064 is my favorite for 308. It's easy to work with.
In no particular order:
IMR 4064, IMR 4895, Varget, Alliant Reloder 15, Ramshot TAC
IMR 4064, IMR 4895, Varget, Alliant Reloder 15, Ramshot TAC
Varget 43.8-44.0, 210M primer, Lapua brass.
175 SMK seated at “zero” at the lands!
Runs 2680 fps out of a 24” Krieger barrel.
My avatar is this load, 5 shot group @ 200 yards!
175 SMK seated at “zero” at the lands!
Runs 2680 fps out of a 24” Krieger barrel.
My avatar is this load, 5 shot group @ 200 yards!
AR Comp has worked well for me. My second choice is 8208XBR. Very low E/S - S/D. I also use them in heavy bullet 223 loads.
Thanks for all the great advise guys! Picked up a bottle of Varget to start off with and see how it goes. I'm new to reloading so this is my first bottle of powder.
8208XBH, for speed (2720-2750), temp changes not noticed, and zero lot variance in my experience. Varget changed from jug to jug.
H4895 for speed(2700), temp changes not noticed, and zero lot variance.
IMR4064, good speed (2675-2710), better than most on temp changes but not on par with 8208XBR or H4895. Only noticed when I moved back to Texas. Never noticed a difference when I lived in the east coast.
Benchmark is slow in comparison (2525-2575), temp changes not noticed, stupid simple to find a tack driving load.
Hope this helps.
H4895 for speed(2700), temp changes not noticed, and zero lot variance.
IMR4064, good speed (2675-2710), better than most on temp changes but not on par with 8208XBR or H4895. Only noticed when I moved back to Texas. Never noticed a difference when I lived in the east coast.
Benchmark is slow in comparison (2525-2575), temp changes not noticed, stupid simple to find a tack driving load.
Hope this helps.
Since this sound like your first experience with 308 and reloading, is it also your first with reloading of any sort?
If it is... then you will find there is a difference in the physical form of the powder that is worth noting.
A "stick" powder is one kind that makes throwing charges with a volumetric powder measure a little crunchy, vesus "ball" or "flake" powders that throw much easier. There is no reason to avoid stick powders due to the difficulty of the throw because they bring excellent performance for the trouble.
Ball powders, on the other hand, can reduce or eliminate the need to trickle and weigh each charge. These include examples like H335, H380, and CFE223, among others.
To start out, try and keep your Varget charges controlled by weighing and trickling to a target charge within 0.1 grains. You will probably want to underthrow and trickle up, so take note of how close the thrown charges repeat. Then later on when you branch out into ball powders, you will already have an understanding of what it takes to control the propellant weight with different types of powders.
If it is... then you will find there is a difference in the physical form of the powder that is worth noting.
A "stick" powder is one kind that makes throwing charges with a volumetric powder measure a little crunchy, vesus "ball" or "flake" powders that throw much easier. There is no reason to avoid stick powders due to the difficulty of the throw because they bring excellent performance for the trouble.
Ball powders, on the other hand, can reduce or eliminate the need to trickle and weigh each charge. These include examples like H335, H380, and CFE223, among others.
To start out, try and keep your Varget charges controlled by weighing and trickling to a target charge within 0.1 grains. You will probably want to underthrow and trickle up, so take note of how close the thrown charges repeat. Then later on when you branch out into ball powders, you will already have an understanding of what it takes to control the propellant weight with different types of powders.
IMR 8208 xbr, as several have posted, is my favorite. Even over varget. Need to try AR-Comp to see how works though.
Is the speed difference you've seen with 8208 and 4064 with a comparable charge weight?
I've been thinking about trying 8028
No the charge weight is different with every powder due to the different pressures each powder produces. Speed limitations for my above referenced powders were based off the top velocity node identified during ladder testing. This has held true across all my 308s of similar barrel lengths. And don’t forget case volume differences between brass manufacturers.
I am also new to reloading in general and went right into 308. In my research; all the really hardcore guys seemed to be using Hodgdon H4895. So that is what I went with. In looking around I also noticed Varget and 4064 seemed to be a bit cheaper then H4895 and I have never underestimated the preponderance of people to choose one based on being a few dollars cheaper.
Real men use H4895 and haven't blown my face off yet. lol
Real men use H4895 and haven't blown my face off yet. lol
I have found 8208 XBR to be more consistent and a great varget replacement! My favorite IMR powder hands down
Yes, it is my first time reloading and I'm glad you mention undercharging then trickling. That's exactly what I was planning on doing.
Varget.... Especially in a Semi-Auto! In a bolt action you can extract the spent case and allow it to cool for a little while before chambering the next round. Semi-auto that next round gets chambered in a hot chamber and that will effect your velocity.
Varget and IMR4064... with my T3x TAC A1 I got crazy good results with the 4064 (basically replicated Mk316 loads)
I've become a fan H4895. Good accuracy and better velocities than I was getting with either Varget or 4064. Original got the H4895 for an M1A, but discovered the bolt gun liked it as well.
Good to see all the 8208XBR recommendations.
Im loading 4064 right now and through a Dillon its a stick powder nightmare with all the "leakage"
Im abandoning my quest to seek one powder for my .308s and 30-06s - limited to the operating rod on a Garand.
Future is going to be 8208XBR for .223 and .308
4350 for bolt 30-06
4895 for Garand
W231/HP38 for anything hand gun I own.
Im loading 4064 right now and through a Dillon its a stick powder nightmare with all the "leakage"
Im abandoning my quest to seek one powder for my .308s and 30-06s - limited to the operating rod on a Garand.
Future is going to be 8208XBR for .223 and .308
4350 for bolt 30-06
4895 for Garand
W231/HP38 for anything hand gun I own.
.308, 175SMK @2.825" OAL, Commercial brass, CCI 200/BR-2, 42.2gr IMR-4064. 24", 1:10" Bolt rifle and M1a.
.30-06, 150 FMJ-BT W/C @3.185 OAL, Commercial Brass, WLR, 50.0gr IMR-4064, Garand. (M-2 Ball Equivalent).
.30-06, [email protected]" OAL, Commercial Brass, CCI 200/BR-2, 48.1gr IMR-4064, Garand. (FGMM Equivalent, great deer load with 165SGK).
RCBS Chargemaster Lite tends to be a bunch more consistent for me than Dillon Auto Measure, and fast enough not to get me tapping my foot loading with the RL550b.
All my 30-06 loads are configured to be Garand safe, but also shoot well in a 22" bolt hunter.
Greg
.30-06, 150 FMJ-BT W/C @3.185 OAL, Commercial Brass, WLR, 50.0gr IMR-4064, Garand. (M-2 Ball Equivalent).
.30-06, [email protected]" OAL, Commercial Brass, CCI 200/BR-2, 48.1gr IMR-4064, Garand. (FGMM Equivalent, great deer load with 165SGK).
RCBS Chargemaster Lite tends to be a bunch more consistent for me than Dillon Auto Measure, and fast enough not to get me tapping my foot loading with the RL550b.
All my 30-06 loads are configured to be Garand safe, but also shoot well in a 22" bolt hunter.
Greg
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