Cleaning Off Lube Using A Progressive Press

powerspc

It Sounded Like a Good Idea at the Time
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  • Mar 15, 2018
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    I’ve searched for this a few different way but haven’t really found an answer yet. After loading for years on a single stage, I’m going to be making the plunge into a progressive press primarily for bulk handgun rounds (9mm and .45ACP) but figured I might as well throw some .223/5.56 into the mix. Hence the question, for pistol rounds I think no issue but for rifle you need to lube before resizing, so…if you decap, resize, trim, prime, charge and seat you now have a complete round with lube (planning to use a DIY mix of lanolin and alcohol). How are folks cleaning the lube off of completed rounds? Are you bothering to clean them? Do you need to clean them? Tumbling came up in one search but that appeared controversial as to whether that could impact the powder charge. Any and all suggestions welcomed!
     
    I use hornady one shot on my bulk AR rounds and it seems like there is still a "film" after loading.
    The rounds after firing seem dirtier and smokey and other than wiping each round(which defeats the purpose of a progressive)
    I haven't found a solution.
     
    I use hornady one shot on my bulk AR rounds and it seems like there is still a "film" after loading.
    The rounds after firing seem dirtier and smokey and other than wiping each round(which defeats the purpose of a progressive)
    I haven't found a solution.
    You don't inspect (just a little) every round that falls out of a progressive?
     
    I load 223 for PRS positional practice through a bolt gun. I load in two stages, lube brass, size brass and mandrel size the necks. Tumble brass to clean lube. Prime, powder charge, seat bullet. I setup two Dillon 550 die blocks for this. It's about twice as fast as single stage
     
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    I just bought some of that One Shot to try out. There is definitely a film left over at the end, but being that I am only running it through an AR, I don't bother wiping it off.
     
    Two step process for me. Run all the brass through the press to size it (deprime, FL die, mandrel die), then tumble it in corn-cob until clean and store it as "ready to load". Then use a separate toolhead and load ammo as needed (prime, powder, seat bullet). Helps to have a large amount of brass so you can do bulk operations.
     
    One Shot lube sucks, and I’ve used at least a case of it. Homemade alcohol and lanolin is way better.

    I use my 650 as a two stage process with rifle cases with some manual steps also.

    Anneal
    Size and decap
    Clean
    Trim on the giraud
    Bench prime RCBS tool
    Back to the Dillion to charge and seat a bullet.

    For long range ammo, I weigh each charge and seat on a single stage.

    For .223 I’ve started buying once fired-processed or new, primed Wolf. It’s barely worth the time to process .223 for the accuracy I need from it.
     
    what is wrong with tumbling loaded ammo?

    Some have done it and reported no ill effect. Others claim tumbling can change the characteristics of the powder. Kernel size and coatings are engineered for certain characteristics. It’s enough of a potential variable that I avoid it.

    It’s not that big of a deal to clean the cases as they need to be trimmed anyway.
     
    One Shot lube sucks, and I’ve used at least a case of it. Homemade alcohol and lanolin is way better.

    I have never used it before, so I thought I would give it a shot. I haven't had any issues - knock on wood. I've always used alcohol and lanolin. Think I'll be going back to that after this can is done. Cheap and easy.
     
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    One Shot lube sucks, and I’ve used at least a case of it. Homemade alcohol and lanolin is way better.

    I use my 650 as a two stage process with rifle cases with some manual steps also.

    Anneal
    Size and decap
    Clean
    Trim on the giraud
    Bench prime RCBS tool
    Back to the Dillion to charge and seat a bullet.

    For long range ammo, I weigh each charge and seat on a single stage.

    For .223 I’ve started buying once fired-processed or new, primed Wolf. It’s barely worth the time to process .223 for the accuracy I need from it.

    A two stage process is what I'm concluding:

    Clean

    Decap
    Size
    Trim

    Clean

    Prime
    Charge
    Seat

    Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious!
     
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    Where are you getting the processed 1x fired Wolf?

    The once fired processed is mostly Lake City and there are several sellers. I think I used Rocky’s last time. You will get some SAW fired brass and I had some cases separate on the first and only loading, so I stopped using it for matches that matter. It’s cheap and plentiful though.

    The Wolf is new, boxer primed brass. The primers are crimped like military brass. I get it at www.ammunitionstore.com. Great price @$130 per 1k and great service. I intend to buy it until I have 5 or 6 thousand fired in my rifles and will either sell the brass or send it to be processed by someone.
     
    I use Hornady One shot put a bunch of brass in a large container and spray over really well and drop in the case feeder. Once I get a good chunk of loaded rounds on the side container I drop them onto a large towel spread out on the floor and spray with Running alcohol. Fold the towel over and give them a good wiping. Hefts them pretty cleaned hollow that and have never had any issues with any type of film on them or any issues firing. It’s a lot faster than running in 2 stages.
     
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    I load 223 for PRS positional practice through a bolt gun. I load in two stages, lube brass, size brass and mandrel size the necks. Tumble brass to clean lube. Prime, powder charge, seat bullet. I setup two Dillon 550 die blocks for this. It's about twice as fast as single stage
    I do this too. 10 min in corncob takes care of it
     
    I use Hornady One shot put a bunch of brass in a large container and spray over really well and drop in the case feeder. Once I get a good chunk of loaded rounds on the side container I drop them onto a large towel spread out on the floor and spray with Running alcohol. Fold the towel over and give them a good wiping. Hefts them pretty cleaned hollow that and have never had any issues with any type of film on them or any issues firing. It’s a lot faster than running in 2 stages.

    Wiping down loaded rounds is certainly an option. I’ve had to wipe down some small batches of loaded rounds that needed it and found it tedious. YMMV

    I use a rotary tumbler rather than vibratory. Lube is off the cases in about 1.5hrs with clean media. I process in large batches, so I have other steps to perform on the rest while it’s cleaning.

    I also don’t clean my bolt gun brass before resizing, so it has to get cleaned anyway.
     
    Wiping down loaded rounds is certainly an option. I’ve had to wipe down some small batches of loaded rounds that needed it and found it tedious. YMMV

    I use a rotary tumbler rather than vibratory. Lube is off the cases in about 1.5hrs with clean media. I process in large batches, so I have other steps to perform on the rest while it’s cleaning.

    I also don’t clean my bolt gun brass before resizing, so it has to get cleaned anyway.
    I used to size before cleaning but depending on where that brass lands when ejected (anywhere but in my hand off a bench) I got worried about messing up my fancy dies With sand etc. so now I deprive then wet tumble/dry ( I usually do this as soon as I get home from the range. then anneal, lube, size, expand. Then throw them in corn cob for 10-20 min. Then corncob media, prime and load everything except actual sizing I do on a progressive (I don’t like to “cam over” when sizing) so with an autotrickler the whole process from wet tumble takes 60 min/100 rounds not to bad. And I know I’m good to go.
     
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