Suppressors Direct Thread or Brake Attahcment
- Thread starter cjs88
- Start date
Have both, I like the brake better. I rocksett (locktite) the brake on, then the can threads easily over it, no chance of cross-threading. I move the cans across rifles, so it's not a one-to-one relationship. I use mostly Thunderbeasts, which have a good mount. Direct thread works, but the brake has more options. Also, you can put a brake on a 1/2x28" (AR) and get a separate one in 5/8-24 for bolt guns. Same can screws on either brake.
Better for what a ton of variables here what may be better for you may be better for someone else.
I refuse to direct thread anything but a pistol can...
I refuse to direct thread anything but a pistol can...
That was my follow up question if the can can go on different brakes. I have the 5/8-24 for my suppressor when it gets here in July. Not sure I would suppress my AR though. I have the surefire flash hider on it and if I were to suppress it I'd get the corresponding SOCOM can for it.
Yep, holowoutadime said. I have also done both. In theory the direct thread should have less deviaiton, but that was not the case in the 2 guns I tested. I did a test specifically for this with a silencerco omega. I used the direct thread method for the Omega, and used a qd and brake attachment. I used 2 guns, an ar15 and a Tikka T3x in 260 rem. I shot (4) 5 shot groups with the Omega direct threaded, and (4) 5 shot groups with the brake and qd attachment. I did this for each gun. There was zero difference. They held the same group size, and had no impact shift whatsoever between the two methods (there was a slight impact shift from no suppressor to putting the suppressor on, but that was to be expected) all that being said I exclusively use a brake and qd attachment because you dont have to hassle with threading on the can or worry about cross-threading the threads. Hope that helps.
LOL! That sucks. Luckily for me I purchased an Ultra 7 with the brake so everything should fit right. Next question is, I have a 6.5 Ultra7 on order as well. Is it worth having a dedicated 6.5 can as well? Or should I just use the .30 for everything?
Yep it happens. Always good practice to take them off each time you shoot once they've cooled. I learned the hard way with my surefire on an AR15. I ended up having to loosen the collar and fire 3 or 4 blank rounds. It popped right off. But now I take it off after shooting.
Use rocksett for a thread locker and let the can cool. TBac can should come right off. The only other issue is the carbon buildup that if not cleaned, can jam it up over time.
I use direct thread for my bolt guns. Partly because I don’t want/need a $100+ brake on every rifle. I’m also not a fan of brakes in general so there’s not much benefit to me. Some of the older mounts sucked, but it seems like most manufacturers have it figured out now.
Specifically which mount are you asking about?
Specifically which mount are you asking about?
Cans are high enough as is, no need to add $$ with a brake. DT for me..
Direct thread for me too. Felt the same way as others.... I will never shoot the rifle with only the brake. I had just about $2K into brakes for no reason. Took them off and sold them. Never looked back.
I think a can with 1&3/8"x24 is the way to go. This is becoming something of an industry standard.
Then you can go direct thread or brake mounted and you can go with the brake mount system you prefer. You can also switch between 1/2x28 DT and 5/8x24 DT.
Seems like the best of both worlds.
Then you can go direct thread or brake mounted and you can go with the brake mount system you prefer. You can also switch between 1/2x28 DT and 5/8x24 DT.
Seems like the best of both worlds.
That's what I thought too until I got my can with the 1.375x24 mount threads in hand, now I'm not so sure. I can't seem to keep my Plan-A mount from staying with the brake instead of the can fairly often. This hasn't been a problem with DT mounts, so I guess it still has that functionality, but the standard mount thread is not exactly working out like I'd hoped.
Maybe just go ahead and get an Ultra 7 CB, you can always have them convert it to DT if you don't like the CB system.
I put a Plan "A" in an Omega and I only had issues when I first put it together because I didn't torque the Plan "A" in the can tight enough. If you torque it real well and still have issues then maybe try some vibratite or something similar. I also use Horse lube on the threads and taper to make sure that doesn't get stuck. Additionally, make sure when you tighten the can on the taper mount that you just go one hand tight. Then wait until it's cool to take it off.
I've been tightening the Plan-A on as tight as I possibly can with the two wrenches, and I'm a reasonably strong, large man. After the first trip, I've also been very careful not to overtightened the can onto the brake as well. It's a crap shoot each time as to whether the Plan-A is staying with the can or the brake. I might try some loctite or something, but that defeats the point of modularity for me, I'm swapping cans to different rifles and threads during pretty much every range trip.
Only my semi’s get brake/flash hider attach. If it’s a bolt gun, its direct thread. Just my preference.
TiRant 45 is not a rifle suppressor if that is what you are getting at, and there are a variety of threaded “pistons” for various barrel threads.
I have both coming. I have a direct thread TBAC 556 Takedown and a TBAC Ultra 9 CB. 556 Takedown comes in DT only. I decided to go with the CB Ultra to move it easier and to have the option of a muzzle brake. I’m going to use the Area 419 brakes and adapter system.
For a suppressor that has only precision rifles for a host, to me the most eloquent solution is direct thread. If you use a quality gunsmith and the threads on the barrel and the can are cut correctly, there won't be any issues.
If you start adding different interfaces (brakes, etc), then you are adding more pieces to the puzzle and potentially more issues, and more opportunities for tolerance stacking to come into play. Plus, some QD systems are highly dependent on the user to not fuck it up, potentially launching a can down range or having a baffle strike.
Direct thread is the most idiot proof and logical solution (to me) for a suppressor that's only going to go on precision rifles. Any time you have an opportunity to simplify things, is usually the best way to go IMO (this is the engineer in me speaking).
If you start adding different interfaces (brakes, etc), then you are adding more pieces to the puzzle and potentially more issues, and more opportunities for tolerance stacking to come into play. Plus, some QD systems are highly dependent on the user to not fuck it up, potentially launching a can down range or having a baffle strike.
Direct thread is the most idiot proof and logical solution (to me) for a suppressor that's only going to go on precision rifles. Any time you have an opportunity to simplify things, is usually the best way to go IMO (this is the engineer in me speaking).
Less chance of cross-threading with the larger threads of a brake. This might matter if you shoot a lot and can't fit the rifle w/can in your safe. Of course, it won't fit in your range bag either. Those lucky enough to have a walk in vault, please disregard.
I direct thread everything. I trust it more. That’s just my preference. The only “mount” I have tried is 3-lug and have had issues and haven’t been able to use it yet with my Obsidian and PCC. Also, most of the people i see launching cans are from quick disconnect type mounts. I also didn’t want to have to spend extra money on mounts every time I wanted to use a new host.
