Gunsmithing Will Loctite damage coating on receiver

[Gun_ee_07]

Hi all



Am fitting out my Remington 700 XCR Long Range Tactical in 300 WinMag. I will be fitting an EGW Heavy Duty picatinny scope base. I will be using 243 (Blue) Loctite on the screws and applying 20 inch pounds of torque. My dilemma is whether I should apply Loctite to the base of the mount (on account of it being a 300 WinMag) as I am concerned it may damage the TriNyte coating on the receiver.

As a side note, I expect there to be a little extra weight than usual on account of the scope being fitted with a sunshade and flip up lens covers.



Thoughts anyone?

 

[seanh]

Loctite can cause and embrittlement in various Plastics and polymers. I would advise against coating your receiver or scope rail with it.

If you're really concerned about movement the mount that send the rifle out to be drilled and tapped for 8-40 size scope mount holes

 

[Longrange403]

I personally get all my receivers drilled and tapped for 8-40 screws and use blue loctite for piece of mind. I have had zero issues on my .300wm doing it that way. I wouldnt put loctite in between the receiver and the rail, its meant to be a thread locker and not a form of surface glue

 

[Gun_ee_07]

Thanks for the feedback. I will look into getting the receiver drilled and tapped, but also consider a rail with a recoil lug (e.g. Badger Ordnance).

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Put a drop on the threads and screw it in. I'm coming across a lot of questions that would never occur to me. Sooner or later you are going to have to shoot the rifle at least once. Put a little duct tape on it and it will be good as new.

 

[Terry Cross]

Thanks for the feedback. I will look into getting the receiver drilled and tapped, but also consider a rail with a recoil lug (e.g. Badger Ordnance).

Your standard 6-48 receiver holes will be just fine even with the biggest magnum as long as you are using a base with the machined lug that engages the front of your receiver's ejection port.

I would recommend foregoing the 8-40 rework and spend the money on a NightForce, Badger Ord or Seekins Precision. They offer bases with this feature. Many vendors out there carrying all 3. Here is a link to just one of them for the NF base. https://www.sportoptics.com/nightforce-base-700-short-action-a115.aspx

This feature requires starting with larger material and adding extra machine time during manufacture. That is why they typically cost more than bases that do not have this feature. Bases like the EGW that use "heavy duty" in the name but doesn't have this feature is kinda funny in a sad way.

 

[strikeeagle1]

The loctite adhesive requires anaerobic (i.e. lack of oxygen)conditions to cure; little to no air between screw thread and mount thread. Any excess on the surface is easily wiped off after screws tightened, as it will not cure in open air and will generally not harm open air plastics or finishes; it comes in a plastic bottle!

 

[UpSideDown]

243 is not intended for surface sealing. Put the Loctite in the screw holes, make sure that there is no Loctite on the mating surface, and install the screws.

If I was going to chemically bond those parts I'd use a different Loctite that's made for the application. That is essentially a permanent install though.

Nitride coating is very chemically resistant, and Loctite is very chemically stable as far as standard metal coatings go. It's not like Loctite isn't used on tons of Nitrided parts.

 

[Snuby642]

One drop on the screw and no damage has been found over the years on any surface.

Wipe away any excess, more is not better.

 

[seanh]

Strike Eagle police stop telling people who won't harm plastic. You're 100% wrong on this. Somewhere on their website it even says not for use on plastic.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

He can easily correct his post but TriNyte is not plastic, lol.

 

[strikeeagle1]

Not running for the job of adhesive police just the common sense police..experience trumps the simple mfg. recommendation which is NOT to use the product to secure two pieces of plastic together! No where does it state NOT allow it touch a plastic surface. It's almost like saying don't it is okay to allow your gin martini to pass over your the mucous membrane of your lips just don't wash out your eyes with your martini! It's common sense not nonsense. I have used blue loctite to secure fasteners on hundreds and hundreds of Safariland plastic strutures without ever seeing a problem. IF you don't believe then don't do it. Simple.

 

[Gun_ee_07]

Thank you for the advice. I’m definitely going to ditch the EGW rail and order a Badger Ordnance with the integral recoil lug.

 

[Vodak]

Blue Loctite does work reasonably well as a non-permanent bedding compound. It's not ideal, but it does work to fill voids in metal to metal fit up and does provide some adhesive bonding as well. I use it on scope bases/rails, muzzle brakes, AR gas blocks, AR receiver extensions/receivers etc.

Also, don't use it on plastic unless you know it's compatible, or don't mind losing the part. It says right there in the "LIMITATIONS" section, "Not for use on plastic parts..." A company I used to work for had to recall a batch of parts we made because it was ABS supported with screws that were Loctited into a steel standoff. The tiny bit of excess Loctite from installation caused a large number of them just crumble under load. Are there certain types of plastics it's probably fine for (like the bottle)? Sure, but why fuck around?

 

[seanh]

Back when I was big and the RC helis, ran into a number of issues with Loctite. At one time there was no mention of plastic degradation due to loctite use. When Servo gears, case tabs started cracking as a result of screw retention we started seeing the info listed on the Loctite site.

Can't tell you all the different components or scenarios where Loctite was found to be the cause of the failure with plastic parts. Just know that Loctite and plastic is not a good mix. Yes, there are Plastics that are resistant to some chemicals. Typically that is used as a selling point.

 

[Diablo]

Your standard 6-48 receiver holes will be just fine even with the biggest magnum as long as you are using a base with the machined lug that engages the front of your receiver's ejection port.

I would recommend foregoing the 8-40 rework and spend the money on a NightForce, Badger Ord or Seekins Precision. They offer bases with this feature. Many vendors out there carrying all 3. Here is a link to just one of them for the NF base. https://www.sportoptics.com/nightforce-base-700-short-action-a115.aspx

This feature requires starting with larger material and adding extra machine time during manufacture. That is why they typically cost more than bases that do not have this feature. Bases like the EGW that use "heavy duty" in the name but doesn't have this feature is kinda funny in a sad way.

Terry Cross did this on one of my 300 Win Mags several years ago, IIRC it was a 25 MOA lugged rail from Near Manufacturing. Excellent installation, worked well even with exteneded travels and some hard use. My current 300WM has a Surgeon 1086 with integral rail, but if I was building another on a Rem700 action I would go with the lugged rail, exactly like Terry says.