If you have a drying procedure for powder please share what you're doing? I'm curious how it works.
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I throw mine in the cast iron over a camp fire, helps season the cast iron as well slow dry it for about 4 hours on an openMicrowave on high for 2 minutes.
If your powder got wet, toss it.If you have a drying procedure for powder please share what you're doing? I'm curious how it works.
If your powder got wet, toss it.
When youre not using it, keep the lids closed and sealed. Don't keep powder stored in a hopper on your reloading bench, it will absorb the humidity in the air over time which will degrade the powder to some unknown extent. I dont know to what extent as I have never felt the need to find out.
@reubenski has done a write up on this
I'm new to all of this, but I'm in Colorado as well & drying out jugs via exposure to the local atmospheric conditions here sounds pretty attractive!
No.does or has anyone ever tried to vacuum seal and pack there powder ? unlike the jar once you open the seal you expose it to any and all moisture in the air or if kept in a garage any moisture that is present ?
@slowerisfaster
My opinion, the whole thought of adding/subtracting moisture to the powder is not just futile,, but fucking stupid..
Yeah, let's just add one more series of completely unknown variables/complications/testing conditions to the reloading process which people already overcomplicate for either no or miniscule gains in accuracy.
Let's take powder, which is stored at an unknown humidity in the jug, and leave it exposed to uncontrolled ambient humidity and temperature at your home for it to gain or lose burn rate based on the time it is exposed to those uncontrolled variables.
Who is willing to log that data?
Ambient humidity in the jug of powder? Baseline velocity for a given load at given powder humidity and temp?
With that, expose the powder to varying levels of ambient humidity for varying amount of time...
What increments of humidity? 25% for 30 minutes? 30% for 40 minutes? 35% for 25 minutes? 60% for 15 or 30 minutes?
What about moisture absorption rate in cooler temps vs warmer temps?
What about less dense vs more dense powders?? Does Reloder 16 and H4350 absorb/ lose less or more humidity than Reloder 26.
Testing all these different lots of "different moisture powders" in the *exact same conditions as your baseline load for accurate comparison*
And
What actual downrange effect would it have? If my load, which already shoots well in my rifle, loses or gains 10-20fps, is that going to matter? Was that velocity change due to powder temp or powder humidity?
How to avoid all this complicated shit?
Open bottle
Pour powder into powder hopper
Seal bottle
Dispense powder within a reasonable time during that reloading session.
Repeat the same process and timeframe for subsequent reloading bench sessions.
Wow, holy shit, we just avoided introducing all these insane complications and variables by... taking reasonable stops to not introduce them. I know, totally crazy. Almost crazy enough to work.
and i will say it again.....RELOADING IS THE MOST OVER THOUGHT THING ON THE PLANET!!!
H1000 is not elusive... i can find it every day!!!So what he is saying is I can make the elusive H1000 by adding some water to slow the burn rate down on some Varget?![]()
Just for the record, I loaded a couple of dozen shells on my deceased Father’s MEC progressive, in which the 700x had been sitting in the hopper for well over a year, just to see if they’de fizzle. They shot fine. I did not chrony them, but everything sounded and felt right.If your powder got wet, toss it.
When youre not using it, keep the lids closed and sealed. Don't keep powder stored in a hopper on your reloading bench, it will absorb the humidity in the air over time which will degrade the powder to some unknown extent. I dont know to what extent as I have never felt the need to find out.
But let's just think about this for a minute.
j/k
If you get into the science of drying materials that have reasonably high surface area, you'd realize how hard it would be to work with uniform humidity in your powder. Don't even worry about some arbitrary specification for dryness because if you were to go there, uniformity would be of more utility than just being "dry".
But if you really want to go there, start by making your reloading work area dry. Dehydrate the living fuck out of your reloading room or the bottle of powder won't matter much. And don't bitch about all the static electricity pain in the asses you will endure if you can get your reloading room as dry as a popcorn fart. By the time you are done, you will realize just how hard it is to get a workplace and your hygroscopic materials dry, and how much of a pain in the ass it is to deal with dry powders, static electricity zapping your primers, etc. A dry workspace is difficult to achieve because water has remarkable ability to get into places you don't want it to. You can work in extremely high vacuum systems like a secondary ion mass spectrometer and guess what you see on the surface of every sample you analyze? Yep, water. It's a small molecule and it can penetrate glass, stainless steel, etc. And it's a polar molecule that sticks to all kinds of things. Face it, your dryness quest is royally fucked.
Definitely not drunk from me. I'm deployed to a dry locationThis thread got a lot of drunk posts last night.
So much emotion....
This thread got a lot of drunk posts last night.
So much emotion....
i live in nevada we have just enough humidity here to keep all this from happening....BUT....sense we are over thinking reloading once again....if i lived in the driest place on the planet and you lived in the most humid place on the planet and we are both shooting 6BRAs..your barrel is #1 mine is #2 from the same lot of steel drilled and rifled on the same day same machine by the same guy..chambered by the same smith with the same reamer on the same day...same length...same brake...same actions 1 number apart...same stock..same scope..same rings..same trigger...same lot of peterson brass..same lot of 109 hybrids..same lot of fed205m primers..same lot of varget...same 31.1g load...i probably missed a few sames but you get the idea....
would these loads shoot the same groups? same velocities? if not would it be because your powder was moister? mine was drier? or would it be one(or several)or the other things involved?
my point is again...reloading is the most over thought thing on the planet....i just tapped a new lot#/jug of powder this morning...i did not check the moisture content...i did not go on quick load to see what it had to say...i loaded 50 rounds with 30.5g(put them in the garage to cool down)and im headed out in about an hour to check at 100yds on paper then out at distance on steel...if it dont shoot ill adjust the charge...or better yet just adjust the new tuner while im there and be done....see no over thinking involved just straight caveman....dump powder stuff bullet shoot LOL!!
Well then instead of asking people you don't know for opinions, try it out all your baseline loads, then do all the high speed powder manipulations and let us know how it goes.Seriously.
I was looking at it from a Normalization aspect. Like annealing, the goal is to create consistency from cartridge to cartridge.
Well then instead of asking people you don't know for opinions, try it out all your baseline loads, then do all the high speed powder manipulations and let us know how it goes.
Don't talk about it and sulk. Be about it.
It’s those short-shorts you’re wearing.For living in a desert you sure seem awful moist.
It’s those short-shorts you’re wearing.
You've way overthought this. Powder will absorb or lose humidity. And this has an affect on it's speed. You can try to control that as much as possible by keeping the lid on and pouring it back in the jug immediately when finished loading. But over a couple.of months it will still drift in speed. Maybe not even a noticeable amount depending on where you live. For us that live in a really dry climate it does. And new jugs of powder are always slower for us. All we're talking about is normalizing it to what its going to be after a while. Its just like installing hardwood flooring out here. Its really not that complicated, wild, or mind blowing. I think some folks are overwhelmed by all the perceived variables of reloading that this hurts their head.
You seem like a decent enough guy, but I don't really understand why you're so emotional and obstinate about something you've never tried. And you don't have to try it. Just break the wrist and walk away. Don't try to dominate the conversation with indignant negativity.
Either way, enjoy the rest of your Sunday. I will. About to go take family photos and then chrono some subsonic 9mm.
my point is again...reloading is the most over thought thing on the planet...
For living in a desert you sure seem awful moist.
Yes.
I'm confused about your msg. Is it overthought? Reloading is too simple? Pour powder, seat bullet? Or it would be impossible to tell why #1 had a different velocity than #2 because of all the complex, unknown variables?
No way. Doesn't hold a candle to trying to get laid, rich or famous.
Yes, I read your thread about your 6mm gun and 30gr +/- of varget experiences and how you used uou master bedroom in your home to dry out the lot of powder instead of an oven (smart choice). Did your ever fix that shrinking hard wood floor issue?Oh c'mon. Don't cop out. Own it. You weren't just "posing questions" on a reloading forum.
And none of your made up scientific process is required. Hydrometer? LOL! Who's overthinking shit now.
You obviously didn't read the linked thread. And it didn't seem you understood this post.
View attachment 7493424
Like the moisture content in your powder?
It's not a mystery that surprises me and keeps me from understanding why new lots are slower
Yes, endless. As current wisdom stands, with each lot of powder you do a baseline load to see where it's at compared to your current load, then tweak from there."Endless experiments" Oh, the hyperbole.
@slowerisfaster
My opinion, the whole thought of adding/subtracting moisture to the powder is not just futile,, but fucking stupid..
Yeah, let's just add one more series of completely unknown variables/complications/testing conditions to the reloading process which people already overcomplicate for either no or miniscule gains in accuracy.
Let's take powder, which is stored at an unknown humidity in the jug, and leave it exposed to uncontrolled ambient humidity and temperature at your home for it to gain or lose burn rate based on the time it is exposed to those uncontrolled variables.
Who is willing to log that data?
Ambient humidity in the jug of powder? Baseline velocity for a given load at given powder humidity and temp?
With that, expose the powder to varying levels of ambient humidity for varying amount of time...
What increments of humidity? 25% for 30 minutes? 30% for 40 minutes? 35% for 25 minutes? 60% for 15 or 30 minutes?
What about moisture absorption rate in cooler temps vs warmer temps?
What about less dense vs more dense powders?? Does Reloder 16 and H4350 absorb/ lose less or more humidity than Reloder 26.
Testing all these different lots of "different moisture powders" in the *exact same conditions as your baseline load for accurate comparison*
And
What actual downrange effect would it have? If my load, which already shoots well in my rifle, loses or gains 10-20fps, is that going to matter? Was that velocity change due to powder temp or powder humidity?
How to avoid all this complicated shit?
Open bottle
Pour powder into powder hopper
Seal bottle
Dispense powder within a reasonable time during that reloading session.
Repeat the same process and timeframe for subsequent reloading bench sessions.
Wow, holy shit, we just avoided introducing all these insane complications and variables by... taking reasonable stops to not introduce them. I know, totally crazy. Almost crazy enough to work.
Realistically, I spend most of my time trying to preserve my powder the way it is. I only consider airing it out if it's drastically slower than it should be. And this has only happened 3 times for me. With Varget, H4350, and RL26. In the case of the Varget it was slow enough that I couldn't use an entire 8lb jug for 6 BR. I would have to switch to something else. With the RL26, before I thought about airing out powder, I just sold the new jug because I was 1100rds in a 1800rd barrel and that new jug simply wouldn't shoot. I switched to 4831SC and sold that jug. In retrospect it was probably just the moisture content. With the 4350, most recently, the new jug was the same lot# and shot about 50fps slower for the same charge. Compressed load in 6GT. No option to keep adding powder. Aired it out for 48hrs, loaded 38grs and was only 10fps slower.
This isn't a regular step in the loading process. But if you find yourself in a situation where a new jug isn't doing what you want it to, when the old jug did....you're going to be doing burpees one way or the other. Rework your load? Try another powder and work a new load? Or take 1/4lb out and air it for 2 days and see if it resolves. It really isn't the more involved course of action in that dilemma. In the case of the 4350, I sidestepped load development burpees by simply airing out some powder.
I guess I have to suck at loading and start with a shitty load to tune.