I just finished my 308 build and I want to run a suppressor on the gun 100% of the time. Is this a bad idea, if so, why?
Full Time Suppressed Question...
- Thread starter abn_surfer
- Start date
Damned savages.....
Last time I took that advice I ended up with monthly alimony...
I run all of my guns suppressed 100% of the time. Well except for my carry guns etc.
The only downside is you might have to clean more frequently (if you are into that kind of thing). Typically an AR will run even if it's dirty. I wiped one of mine down not long ago. I had forgotten what brand of bolt carrier group I had before that.
Even my Savage is civilized
Hah!
Should've asked about the build. Unless it's a not so finely tuned gas gun there's no reason not to run the suppressor.
I ate up 100pcs of of SRP 6.5 manbun in two firings shooting an over gassed AR suppressed. Bolt guns are always suppressed. ALWAYS.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,450
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Once you strip them naked, dress them back up the way you want, burn their barrel out and replace it, and put a gage on it they can be tamed.
The Build is pretty straightforward:
Aero M5
18" 308 Ballistic Advantage Rifle Length gas system
Superlative Arms Adjustable gas block.
AAC Cyclone Supressor
Over time, will running a rifle suppressed create more wear on the rifle?
Forget wear on your rifle. Trashing brass is the bigger (and more expensive) issue.
.308 isn’t as bad as 6.5 creed and with an 18” with rifle length gas I would think you’d be ok. Not sure about the BA gas port size. I don’t shoot .308 gas guns, so hopefully someone with more experience can chime in.
I use adjustable gas blocks on my ARs, but I think gas port diameter and gas system length is the bigger issue.
There’s a lot more gas and fouling when the large frame gas guns. My MWS is setup for dedicated suppresses use with a BRT gas tube sized for my SAS Arbiter. The gun runs great and is a shoots pretty soft for a 308. However the downside is it gets filthy fast.
Maybe if I had a more gas gun friendly suppressor with less back pressure it would help.
Just some food for thought. I say go for it and clean as needed.
Maybe if I had a more gas gun friendly suppressor with less back pressure it would help.
Just some food for thought. I say go for it and clean as needed.
I run a SAS stainless steel can, its a predecessor to the Arbiter (made around 2006). My rifle isn't finicky, I run a 18 inch RLGS. It just gets dirty but it runs like a top.
No extra wear on my rifle and the adjustable gas block prolongs the brass for multiple loadings. Around 5-6 before I toss them...
No extra wear on my rifle and the adjustable gas block prolongs the brass for multiple loadings. Around 5-6 before I toss them...
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I shoot my target rifles suppressed all the time and have found no issues. My semi autos have adjustable gas blocks and they are almost all the way closed. Yes, more fouling gets dumped into the semi-auto’s action but it wipes out fine. This isn’t an issue on my bolt gun.
Ive seen absolutely no indication of accelerated wear on my rifles or brass from suppressed usage. All of them have adjustable gas blocks with the exception of one that has a Bootleg adjustable BCG. Since they are all tuned for suppressed shooting its only logical that each has its own dedicated suppressor. That gets expensive. Additionally the accrual of fouling is tremendous. Keep that in mind when setting your gas block. I have set the gas block based on last round bolt hold open plus 1 click. After 2 mags Id have function hiccups. I now do last round bolt hold open plus 3 clicks. No more hiccups. It seems like only so much fouling can hold on if you're regularly maintaining your rifle.
Mobile 1 synthetic and sometimes Mobile 1 red grease. One or the other, not both. I like the grease because it stays put but I can’t say one is better than the other.I just started playing with the grease about a year ago after buying it for my Sigs.
Use whatever you want. That said I personally have migrated over to gun grease and I tend to stay completely away from light oils. At present my go to is either Lucas Gun Grease or Bore Tech gun grease. I used Cherry Balmz as well. I like Cherry Balmz, but I really dislike their packaging. I had numerous essentially brand new bottles of the stuff then the cap busted off because of cheap plastic and I ended up wasting almost a whole bottle. With the Lucas or BoreTech you can be way more efficient in where you apply it and there is almost no waste (because it works like a tube of toothpaste almost).
In short though I can lube a gun with those greases and the lube stays exactly where it needs to be. It doesn't run or weep out. It also provides EXCELLENT results and lasts a really really long time. I've had guns where light oil was applied regularly, but after the light stuff in those mixtures evaporates off it leaves a very sticky film on everything. Conversely with the greases I mentioned I can lube a gun one time and it will be good for a year. Even if you lube it and set it aside and pick it up six months later it will still be good to go (unlike the light oils that leave that sticky residue after the lighter elements evaporate off).
There really isn't anything special about lubricating a suppressed gun vs unsuppressed in my opinion. That said in the past I have tried a ton of oils, your Frog Lubes, Seal 1, and so forth. In my opinion I like Seal 1 the best among those types of options. It cuts right through carbon to the point where it literally melts off. That being said, in the big picture that is an inconsequential thing even for a suppressed gun.
Running suppressor makes my .308 Larue OBR crap out after 60-80 rounds. I've got to keep the OBR clean to run well, unlike my small frame AR's.
