308 AR10 Build Info/Picture Thread

This is my poodle shooting mainstay, a .223 Wylde Turnbull TAR15, 18" JP Supermatch button rifled high polish 416R stainless steel barrel with 1:8 twist and rifle-length JPGS-9D adjustable gas system, JP Mk III modular 15.5" hand guard, JP EnhancedBolt individually head-spaced to the barrel and FMOS Bolt Carrier, JP original trigger and adjustable reversible ambi selector with standard profile levers, JP Gen 2 AR-15 silent captured spring builder in a locked Fortis LA stock; Radian Raptor ambidextrous charging handle; Featureless Arms Liberal rifle grip; Ultradyne C4 Dynamount Folding Front Sight, Athena Linear Comp, and C4 Folding Rear Sight; Aimpoint Micro T-2 2MOA Red Dot Sight and 3X Magnifier in a Twist Mount.

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This is my poodle shooting mainstay, a .223 Wylde Turnbull TAR15, 18" JP Supermatch button rifled high polish 416R stainless steel barrel with 1:8 twist and rifle-length JPGS-9D adjustable gas system, JP Mk III modular 15.5" hand guard, JP EnhancedBolt individually head-spaced to the barrel and FMOS Bolt Carrier, JP original trigger and adjustable reversible ambi selector with standard profile levers, JP Gen 2 AR-15 silent captured spring builder in a locked Fortis LA stock; Radian Raptor ambidextrous charging handle; Featureless Arms Liberal rifle grip; Ultradyne C4 Dynamount Folding Front Sight, Athena Linear Comp, and C4 Folding Rear Sight; Aimpoint Micro T-2 2MOA Red Dot Sight and 3X Magnifier in a Twist Mount.

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You don't see that everyday. More pics of the case hardening please!
 
Why not just go to Zev & try to locate one of their "Mega Ma-Ten" Handguards? I bought mine as a complete package. Everything fits together quite well.
It's an idea I've been considering. I do like SLR's where they have full picatinny top, and at the end at 3, 6 and 9 and the rest is all m-lok, even at the 45*. The Gieselle MK4 handguard spoiled me.

I think it will first mostly boil down to what barrel length I go with first.
 
Placeholder for better pictures to come after parts arrive. I recently installed an EFAB on the AR10 pictured on the right and added an FCD PMA and RMR as my offset for the TA01B. The other 50 shades of FDE is being rebarreled from a Nemo 20 inch in 308 to a BA 18 inch in 308. The Aero M5 barrel nut needs new shims to properly torque to the correct timed position so right now the upper has been stripped waiting for the shim pack from Aero to arrive.

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I have heavy AR 10s so I decided to build a light weight one, but accurate if possible, in 308. This one is 6 lbs 3 oz no scope. And it does not have a pencil barrel but a heavier profile fluted 16" barrel, to keep rds on target. Carbon fiber hand guard, 1 oz titanium brake, Roam magnesium upper, titanium bolt carrier. To finish it off with a Leupold Mark 4 M3 3-10X mil dot with appropriate 30-06 180 gr elevation turrent to match trajectory and Warne 20 moa ultra light mount, for 1200 plus yds. Total weight, ready to hunt 7 and three quarters lbs. A delight to carry, feels like an AR 15. Already have some good high velocity loads, in the .5 to 1 moa 5 shot group range...will be testing other bullets, like the 169, & 177 SMK, & 168 gr eldm. The 168 gr Berger 2687 ave 11.4 S/D is very accurate shooting 5 shots half moa, the 150 gold dot 2813 ave 9.4 S/D 1 moa, as well as the 208 Eldm averaging 2442 fps 13.3 S/D fast for a 16" barrel 308. Got some fast velocities with 155 gr to 2900 fps ave but the accuracy was not there..lower or change powder for the 155 grainers, and recheck. Just another project to play with...
 

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Thought I had put up a picture of my, me built 308/260 AR-10 Armalite set. They have 18" SS McGowan barrels, a NM trigger, Japanese Mil Dot optics with etched glass reticles, Warne steel tactical rings. Has 1/8" font scal actual click adjustments to 1,200 yards per 50 on the front bell. The 308 will hold a 3/4" group at 500. Coupled with a 1,000 yard laser range finder, it is a deadly one shot setup. I would have traded a left nut for it in 66 to replace my M-14 with the old 3x9 Redfield side mounted scope, built that setup also.
The little so/so group was with 150s Rem bulk bullets during the barrel break in with Sweet Shooter using reloads w military processed, but un sorted brass. It does shoot wih the 168 grain Fed NM duplication loads w sorted and prepped commercial brass. If need be, I do switch butt stocks to a solid for real shooting. The 260 with 120 SMKs hold .13 inch groups, shoots like a laser compared to the 308.
Had a retired guy from the hill, give me his social load for his 6.5x08, he used in Africa.

The Armalite is heavy, but a very stable platform for a "shooter."
 

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New build is a 6 lb 3 oz 308, ...7 lbs 12 oz ready to hunt 16" barrel, Leupold Mark 4 M3 10X...
Doesn't every AR 10, shoot 1/4" or less 3 shot groups and less than .5" 5 shot groups, quite often? Even with several bullet and powder combinations...from the prone off a shooting mat...in 30 seconds or less...fairly easily?
Sierras new 169 SMK, 177 SMK, and Hornady 168 eldm, 178 eldm, and 208 eldm, Berger 168, Speer 130 Varmint, shot great with small groups, with Imr 4895, 2000 MR, & 6.5 Staball. Varget was odd in this barrel with huge velocity spreads. The pictured velocity was 2756 ave with good accuracy and a fairly high eldm bc...for a 308 16" barrel. It is, what it is...no barrel break in, no cleaning at the range, just cheap LC primed brass, no case prep, just grab a case out of a 1000 box, then weight powder, seat bullet to mag length. 2.820" to 2.860" on SS mags. Simple...
 

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Here's mine. AeroPrecision .308 upper/lower, Krieger 24" SS barrel/JP headspaced bolt with EC tuner / brake, Arken SH-4 6-24x50 scope, velocity MPC-3 trigger ( not in this pic ) Luth AR MBA-3 stock. Cerakoting coming up in the near future.
I'm still working on load developement, so far have it down to .6" and have just bought a Magpul M118 mag that will let me load out to 2.883 so I can do some seating depth work, maybe get it down to .5".
Good Times ! Fun rifle to shoot.
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That's why you recock it and store it with the selector lever on safe, regardless of whether or not you have a round chambered. Having a practice where sometimes the selector lever on fire and sometimes it's on safe is foolish. It's always on safe unless you're engaging a target and have positive control of it.

"BUtIThouGHTitWaseMPty!"
Thats always been my procedure, but it seems way less common than I thought.
 
That's why you recock it and store it with the selector lever on safe, regardless of whether or not you have a round chambered. Having a practice where sometimes the selector lever on fire and sometimes it's on safe is foolish. It's always on safe unless you're engaging a target and have positive control of it.

"BUtIThouGHTitWaseMPty!"
Loudest sound in the world is when it goes bang instead of click and click instead of bang!
 
That's why you recock it and store it with the selector lever on safe, regardless of whether or not you have a round chambered. Having a practice where sometimes the selector lever on fire and sometimes it's on safe is foolish. It's always on safe unless you're engaging a target and have positive control of it.

"BUtIThouGHTitWaseMPty!"
Seems to be a pretty common practice (though not universal) in shooting comps to remove mag, show clear, and drop hammer before holstering and exiting the shooting position.

Likewise, the scene from Blackhawk Down, where Eric Bana tells the captain “this is my safety, sir” is based on a few real life events. The punch line is that Delta’s safety procedure was to clear the weapon and drop the hammer. If the selector can not be turned to safe, you can be certain the weapon is clear (because the hammer was dropped on an empty chamber). Likewise, there is some uncertainty if you pick up a random weapon that is on safe. Is there a round chambered? Maybe. Maybe not. At least, that is the rational given by Norm Hooten, the actual Delta team member played by Bana…

 
For pistols yes.

For all gas gun stages I've seen, it's mag out, safe on, bolt back, flag in.
My very limited experience is that USPSA- PCC division- is mag out, hammer down. That is an N of 1 match. Could just be a range specific rule as well. IDK.

Shooting stuff is fun. Unless the “stuff” is yourself. Then it’s not fun. Stay safe.
 
It's not. Walking around with your weapon on fire like you're describing is a safety violation of basic safe weapons handling procedures in any of the formative courses in high end SOF that produce assaulters. Hence why I explained it in the first place. You didn't figure something out by combining a movie quote and an open source article.
I don’t know what goes on in spec ops today, nor do I know what was going on 30 years ago. And, the article seems to suggest that the doctrine, as described by Hooten (allegedly), may have been specific to the delta team in Mogadishu at the time.

I don’t claim to have “discovered” anything. I merely have presented my observations from match shooting (where even single action pistols with manual safeties are considered safe only when hammer down) and related an anecdote found online.

I will say that the basic “facts” of the annecdote are recapitulated in an interview somewhere on YouTube as well.

Regardless, I will maintain that a firearm with an empty chamber is as safe decocked as it is with the selector on safe.

The larger issue is, in my mind, that this isn’t instasnapfacetube- and we don’t really need to safety-Karen each other about rifle glamour shots.
 
I shoot factory ammo. I zeroed this with some M118LR spec ammo from American Marksman. The ammo is decent, especially for the price when I bought it (about $1/rd), but Federal Gold Medal Match consistently groups better than the M118LR so I will refine my zero with some 168gr.

I haven't considered it for a hunting rifle. I haven't been in Alaska too long so the only thing I imagine I would hunt with it is caribou or black bear. I like a lightweight 308 carbine I can run like an AR-15 and still be stout enough to hit well out to 600+ yds. It's certainly easier to lug around than my LMT MWS.
 
What’s everyone’s thoughts on Daniel Defense ar-10s? Been wanting to get into the ar10 game for a while now. Been a huge DD fan and have 3 different ARs. Love the quality, reliability, and accuracy. Thinking about getting the DD5V4, the 18” 6.5cm.
 
Ya. I think they really come into their own when you use the lighter bullets and use it like a big AR-15. There's a ton of great 308 bullets under 168gr. Bigger bullet selection than probably any other caliber excepting .224. I've been loading 155 SMK Palmas at 2690fps for distance stuff. Shot a 600yd match with it and was surprised how well they performed. Even trash 125gr pulled Blems shoot 1.5moa and do well out to 300 in short range AR competitions.

I also tested a few of the lighter hunting bullets like I mentioned. The 120's and 125's get up to 2900-3000fps. I shot them into pork shoulders at 150yds. All the bonded and lead cores bullets pretty much vaporized. All I found were the mangled jackets. I'm becoming a real believer of the copper solids. The 130 TTSX is tougher than the TAX TX's and retains a bigger shank while still peeling back a beautiful mushroom. It hits that meat hard.

This 16" 308W AR has become my favorite gun to shoot.

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Most lethal copper mono I've shot is Hammer bullets. 120gr Hammer hunter for 18" 708AR (2880fps) and 137 Hammer hunter for 20" 308 (2980fps) I shoot TTSX too, but the difference with Hammers is the mechanism of injury design. 4 petals break away from the hollow point, leaving a 90 degree frontal faced shank that plows, causing more disruption hitting tissue on a flat face, rather than a rounded mushroom slipping though the meat.
 
I figured the mechanism of injury is the same. "Got shot in the face". Just kidding 😂

I've found there's a ton of different opinions on what people want for terminal performance. I've grown to really hate blown up meat and bullet fragments everywhere in anything Im hunting for the meat. So much so the last 5 deer and antelope I've killed in the last two years have been headshots. In my opinion, if you want explosive bullets, lead cores bullets already do that. Not my thing.
They don't perform like a frangible though. I lost no meat on a Watusi steer shot with the 137HH. Hornady Amax a very different story.
 
4 petals break away from the hollow point, leaving a 90 degree frontal faced shank that plows, causing more disruption hitting tissue on a flat face, rather than a rounded mushroom slipping though the meat.
With the pedals intact on the TTSX/TSX you've got a 200,000 rpm drill bit with double the frontal area.

The meat might disagree with the slipping through part.

 
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I have no experience with Mil surp 308. Anyone ever shot any of this stuff. Buddy gave me a bunch of this & I was hoping to use it for some practice in the AR 10. But this stuff has magnetic bullets?? Steel jacket maybe. Not sure I want to run this through my Proof barrel.
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Yea
That's why you recock it and store it with the selector lever on safe, regardless of whether or not you have a round chambered. Having a practice where sometimes the selector lever on fire and sometimes it's on safe is foolish. It's always on safe unless you're engaging a target and have positive control of it.

"BUtIThouGHTitWaseMPty!"
Yea that is debatable. I teach my guys patrol ready for the ar is hammer down safety on fire obviously empty chamber full mag. When they take the rifle out of the rack they charge it and put the safety on or shoot depending on what is needed
 
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Why? Why would you not recock the hammer when clearing the rifle and return the selector to safe? That way every gun you encounter, that hasn't been in your hands, the base condition is safety is engaged. Whether the rifle is empty, it has a "dry husk" chamber, or is correctly loaded. There is no confusion that you think a loaded gun on fire is safe because you THINK it has an empty chamber. If you want to run an empty chamber on a gun you don't have positive control over ( hanging out in a rack somewhere) like you're describing, it's the same action. You just slingshot the charging handle. But now as the rifle is loading.... it's on safe. You don't have to load a gun unable to go to safe so you have someone charging the rifle on fire with their firing hand on the pistol grip.

This methodology is why you don't point guns at people. Loaded or unloaded. Every novice says , "Don't worry, it's unloaded!". Or so he thinks.
My thought has always been, I can't see from any distance if a rifles chamber is clear. I can however tell from quite a ways away if the safety is on.
So since we are to act as if all guns are loaded all the time, a rifle visibly on safe is preferable to a rifle in unknown condition clearly not on safe.
 
Why? Why would you not recock the hammer when clearing the rifle and return the selector to safe? That way every gun you encounter, that hasn't been in your hands, the base condition is safety is engaged. Whether the rifle is empty, it has a "dry husk" chamber, or is correctly loaded. There is no confusion that you think a loaded gun on fire is safe because you THINK it has an empty chamber. If you want to run an empty chamber on a gun you don't have positive control over ( hanging out in a rack somewhere) like you're describing, it's the same action. You just slingshot the charging handle. But now as the rifle is loading.... it's on safe. You don't have to load a gun unable to go to safe so you have someone charging the rifle on fire with their firing hand on the pistol grip.

This methodology is why you don't point guns at people. Loaded or unloaded. Every novice says , "Don't worry, it's unloaded!". Or so he thinks.
Having to take the safety off is an extra step and for most police officers used to guns with out safety’s it is a step that could get them killed. Their brain and finger is the real safety. Also you can check the firearms status even in the gun rack by trying to move the safety. If it won’t move from fire to safe the hammer is down and the gun will not fire. If you use the other method you don’t know for sure until you take the rifle out of the rack and do a chamber check. Do what you feel works for your guys but I prefer this method.
 
You guys sure have built some very nice equipment there!
I'm looking at the BA barrels. All of there offering in .308 & 6.5 CM.
Starting with there Modern series. What accuracy do you have with
this series. I have a 22" premium fluted in my cart. I just don't like
paying for looks on something that won't matter much. I'm looking
for real experience here.


Thanks,
Jim
 
You guys sure have built some very nice equipment there!
I'm looking at the BA barrels. All of there offering in .308 & 6.5 CM.
Starting with there Modern series. What accuracy do you have with
this series. I have a 22" premium fluted in my cart. I just don't like
paying for looks on something that won't matter much. I'm looking
for real experience here.


Thanks,
Jim
Moderns and Premiums have all been great shooters for me. Sub-MOA 5-10 shot groups depending if my mojo is turned on that day or not! :LOL:
My BA Bull 308 is a stunner:
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First shots out the thing to establish hasty zero:
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My latest rig: 708 M5, 18” WC barrel, Aero/Magpul/ARC/B5Systems/MDT/Area419/Rise/Leupold VX5HD 2-10, & TT Diamond single trigger. Sending 120 Hammer Hunters 2880 N135.
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50/200yd Holosun 510C 3X combo for canyon hog busting. Should I not like the eye box on the Leupold at close quarters.
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Seekins SP10 kits
Proof 24 inch CF barrel 6.5 CM
Triggertech Diamond trigger
JP silent capture buffer
JP BCG full mass
SLR titanium adjustable gas block
Scope: Minox ZP5 MR4
MDT ARAC rail 10inch for tripod

Proof CF barrel is impressive, very accurate out of box, with my handload it’s consistently .5 moa with low SD. I shot 700 yards with this rifle and got bored because it never misses. I invited a group of new shooters and they all can hit the 700 yard target quite easily.

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